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Sherita

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Posts posted by Sherita

  1. Ok, fellow fraggers. Here's what you need to really show off your wares at the next swap. I built a new display, so now this one is for sale.Many of you have seen this setup at the swaps, so you know how nice it is. Included in this package are the tank, light canopy, dimmable LED light and both pumps. Tank does not leak, and is top down viewable.Tank dimensions are 24" x 24" x 8".

    The tank:

    FragTank1.jpg

    Set up with light canopy

    FragTank2.jpg

    Lights on (bottle not included)

    FragTank3.jpg

    The entire thing breaks down in less than five minutes for easy transport.
    FragTank4.jpg

    It has a built in drain in the back

    drain.jpg

    The back chamber has a built in section for a heater, and another section for a drop in carbon cartridge. There is a passive return, as
    well as an active return through the small return bar visible on the back/right side of the tank.

    This is an awesome setup, designed to display your corals at their best. If you go to the swaps, you owe it to yourself to show your
    corals in their best light.

    Add a heater, water, and corals and you are ready to rock.I can catch a ride for this tank down to the Austin area in the next couple of weeks. Don't miss out on this, it's custom built for displaying at the swaps! Paypal to hold.

    $250 OBO for the package. The light alone cost $200 new, and that's not counting time, acrylic, or the pumps :)

  2. I agree with the folks above. Shroom guts or something similar. I don't know what they are either, but mine will do the same thing if I make them mad. I'd give them a few days to settle. As long as the shroom is open and happy, leave the guts alone and it will pull them back in.

    • Like 1
  3. tried current version of IE and firefox. I just see the name of the file and when I click on it a window opens like the pic is going to pop up but nothing.

    Do you have a smartphone? If so, try accessing the thread from there. I have no idea why you can't see them. Weird.

  4. Here I is :)

    I run LED over my zoa tanks (yes, tanks........). Some zoas like more light, some hate it. Since one of my zoa tanks is 2' x 4' and the other is 2' x5' I run two led modules over each tank, which allows me to vary the amount of light that each side gets. Mine are set up so that the left side of the tank is lower light, I keep my chalices there too.

    I was running MH/VHO on one tank and an 8 bulb T5 setup on the other tank. Since switching to these leds (reefbreeders value fixtures, LOVE THEM!!!) I have seen explosive growth on my zoas and palys, and my ho-hum non-growing hateful chalices that were just taking up room have gone nuts. So nuts that I am soon to have to remove some of them from the tank to prevent fighting. My zoas and palys are taking over the world, Growing onto each other, on the sand, on the side of the tank. I'm happy with the color, and real **** happy with the growth.

    With all that out of the way, the bottom line is......some zoas will do better with more light, some will hate you for it. So, whatever you do, you need to allow for lower light areas for those delicate little zoas that despise light. If you don't, they will make you wish you had :)

    I should also mention that my acans have gone bonkers under these lights as well, as have my torches, duncans, frogspawn and hammers.

  5. I've been working on a little project recently. After much thought, I
    came to the conclusion that I wanted a bigger, nicer display tank for
    the frag swaps. So I set about making it so. Here are the tank specs:
    30"w x 24"d x 6"t. Made out of 3/8" clear acrylic and 1/4" black
    acrylic, with an AIO design and rimless. I wanted it top down viewable,
    with minimal surface water disturbance.

    Here's the tank:

    NewFragTank.jpg

    If you look carefully you will notice two things. First is the return
    bar in the back bottom of the tank, this is to facilitate top down
    viewing while still allowing for good water movement. I should mention, I
    have custom built some racks to fit this tank that will elevate the
    corals to just above the level of that return bar, so they won't be
    getting blown around. Also please take a look in the back left corner,
    at that overflow. I built two drop in gates that fit behind it, so that
    as the water level drops in the tank (due to bagging corals), I can
    remove the top gate to maintain surface skimming and won't have to worry
    about my return pump sucking air.

    Here's the tank with the light stand:

    NewFragTank2.jpg

    I apologize. I couldn't back up far enough to get the entire tank in the
    photo. I've got too much crap in my workshop, or too little room. Not
    sure which. The tank is lit with a 120w full spectrum dimmable led.

    The stand is built from 3/4" tubing, and is designed to come apart for
    easy transport. If you look directly on either side of the light, you
    will see small chain restraints with pins on the end of them. This
    allows the stand to be dismantled into three pieces. Here's a detail
    shot:

    disconnect.jpg

    The overflow and return section in the back of the tank is large enough
    for me to hide a heater back there. There is also a fan that will be
    suspended above the return area, to provide cooling. Tank temp will be
    controlled with a homebrew temp controller made from a computer case
    temperature control (digital). Directly before the water gets to the
    return pump, there is a built in slot for a carbon insert. The carbon
    will remove any toxins released by angry corals, and the floss
    surrounding it will trap any debris or detritus. This way the display
    water will stay crystal clear. Here's the return pump section:

    return.jpg

    The carbon slot is to the right in this photo. The custom 90 degree
    fitting was made using 3/8" ID acrylic. I inserted a piece of rope into
    the tubing before heating and bending it. The rope kept the lumen of the
    pipe open during bending, and was easily removed after the piece
    cooled.

    After I completed the build on the tank, I used my laminate router with a
    roundover bit to smooth the corners. The top edge was simply smoothed
    off using my palm sander, and I rolled the edges over as well using the
    palm sander. I then used wet emery cloth and smoothed all edges off
    before flame polishing with the torch for nice clear edges. I did manage
    to get some scratches on the display part of the tank, so I used a
    micromesh kit (which I already had) to buff them out, followed by
    polishing with a buffing compound and buffing wheel on my orbital
    sander.

    I hope you have enjoyed this little mini tour. This tank replaces my
    original display tank that many of you have seen at the swaps. I took
    what I learned from the first tank (which I built) and incorporated it
    into this tank. Who knows what I might do with the next one that I
    build...........

  6. Yes, but one of the steps is giving all your corals to someone...ehem.

    Pick me, pick me, I'll take them. Beautiful... Just remember the October frag swap is just aroun the corner...are hick we can do a buy now and pick up at Theresa now.....that'll work

    I am going to make every effort to be at the swap. I've got a tank full of lovely frags already cut and ready to move to their new homes. Actually, the pictures in the first post are representative of stuff in my frag tank. And I've got a ton more that I didn't photograph. Nuts I'm telling ya!

  7. WOW Sherita I'm so sorry you've come down with this issue. But rest assured it can happen to the best of us, and I'm here to be your first accountability partner. The FIRST thing you need to do is thin your collection a bit. Now the GOOD NEWS is that you don't have to get rid of any coral. You will have to give some, just for safe keeping to your accountability partners, some of your coral for a while. Not forever, two maybe three years tops! Notice the "s" in partners. Given the size of your problem, you will likely need two or ever three partners. Given that I am the first, you'll need to find one or two more. It might be hard, as not all people are as giving as I am, and so willing to help a fellow reefer out... ok enough about how much of a great guy I am. smile.png Now you will go through some separation anxiety, that is normal, but you MUST keep that in check. To help with that, ANY new coral you by over the next.... say six months you'll have to frag and share with your accountability partners, starting with #1 (me) then #2..#3.. than back to #1. This step is VERY important to help cure this, as you said VERY seriously problem.

    OK, now that we have the plan in place, I can, again begin the stand up guy I am, come by this weekend (giving up my free time) and get started on your recovery! All this, and I will NOT, repeat NOT charge you a dime. I'm here for you!

    Here's to your recovery! thumbsup.gifthumbsup.gif

    That right there is funny! Thanks, I really needed the pick me up this morning grin.png

  8. This has gotten entirely out of hand. Seriously.

    Corals1.jpg

    Corals2.jpg

    Corals3.jpg

    What makes it bad, you ask? That is only about 15% of what I have in my coral collection. Is there a 12 step program somewhere that I can join? bye.gif

    the bottom right on the last pic are SWEET!! What are they?

    Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2

    Utter Chaos

  9. It's too late to do it now, but for future reference.......dampen the wound then hold the edges of it together and "dot" the superglue along the injury. Hold it till it dries and you should have a pretty good patch.

    That being said, any injury sustained in the ocean, particularly on rocks or barnacles, needs to be cleaned very well and watched closely. There are some truly nasty bacteria in the ocean. Stuff you really don't want to tangle with.

    I'll probably be heading down in September with the boat. I'm hoping to catch the start of the flounder and gafftop run, and to get out and gather up some sargassum. I've also got a couple leads on two really good spots for big specks. Yum.

  10. And I really do appreciate the warning :) Thankfully, my son has a buddy who is a guide. He's gonna show me the ropes (or oyster beds), and hopefully save me some real aggravation, and expenses. But I'm also sure that at some point I will get in a mess. This is my first saltwater boat, so I'm sure there are mistakes that will be made.

  11. FYI the waters near rockport have the worst channel markings I've ever came across. It makes no sense and when you ask locals where to do they resond... oh go that way for about 2 min the sharp left and your clear.... FYI that doesnt always work according to one prop I destroyed.

    Yeah, the area down there is not well marked at all. Thankfully, this boat runs real skinny. I'll also be running a depth sounder. And I'm sure I'll have problems at least a few times no matter what.

    Yup I was in a bay boat that draws 4 inch, if you have guys on board each can get at a corner and float over oyster bars that are 4 inches under water. And even with depth finder they will catch you off guard. You'll often see the shallow water before the finder pings and picks it up while moving the boat over 5 knots.

    I don't tend to go anywhere very fast. And even if (when) I get hung up, I'm determined to have fun with it. Mess with me I'll just sit there and have a cold drink (non-alcoholic, of course). Either that, or just laugh like a loon about it.

  12. FYI the waters near rockport have the worst channel markings I've ever came across. It makes no sense and when you ask locals where to do they resond... oh go that way for about 2 min the sharp left and your clear.... FYI that doesnt always work according to one prop I destroyed.

    Yeah, the area down there is not well marked at all. Thankfully, this boat runs real skinny. I'll also be running a depth sounder. And I'm sure I'll have problems at least a few times no matter what.

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