DaJMasta

Specifically regarding denitrification though, isn't that an anaerobic process that only occours in the area of the sand bed without oxygen? I'm fairly certain that the break down of ammonia to NO2 and NO3 wll occour in the aerated portion of the sandbed (larger grain size is better), but if you want actual denitrification (the final step of that process to N2 gas) you need an anaerobic portion - the idea behind the deep sand bed - and thus a smaller grain size. Also there's a lot of complexity regarding grain size. The larger the grains, the more space between them for oxygenation, but also the better chance they catch and retain detrius and the less overall surface area for bacteria to grow. While people have had success with virtually every kind of substrate, people seem to gravitate away from both extremes (Crushed coral and extremely fine sand), and there are now sands with a decent grain size difference which may work the best, especially after the smaller particles settle to the bottom.

Looks like an isopod to me. Maybe this variety? http://www.crustacea.net/crustace/isopoda/www/sphaerom.htm From a little googling, those long 'pincer' appendages in the back are an indication that it's a male.

I agree. Mostly I said the PAR bulbs would be a better choice because the intensity of lensed PAR38s for your mains will be greater than most MH setups or really any T5 setup short of a really excessive amount of bulbs. It's really difficult to compete with intensity against Crees or equivalents running at 1A+ with optics - with coverage or overall output - sure - but the area under the spot of the PAR38s won't be all that affected by stunners simply because of the difference in intensity... just like 2 or 3 T5 actinics would give a nice blue hue to the tank but the spots under the PAR38s would still be 15-16k (by my estimate, at least). If you're not using the stunners with the mains, they would be an excellent choice for even coverage and color configuration (there's lots of options and they will give a much less spotlight-y diffused look)... but using high powered PAR38s as the mains I just don't think they'd be able to compete.

Out of curiosity, do they really do anything? I know the stunners don't use optics, but LEDs are very directional light sources on their own, how much difference do the reflectors really make other than keeping the spread a little reigned in? In this case, because your LEDs will be so high over the tank, I would opt for a different actinic supplementation method: PAR30s or PAR38s. Get some all blue bulbs and mount them up with the PAR38s. Because the stunners use LEDs on a lower intensity level than the ones in the PAR bulbs and because they don't use optics, they will not get good depth penetration from that distance and you'll end up having to buy more of them because the effect of each will be minimal. Because you can select the LED configuration exactly, I would suggest something like BoostLED's PAR30s.

I did some research into the brands/color temp ratings of the MH bulbs before I bought, and from what I can tell the Phoenix 14k I was using was pretty accurate on most scales. The combined color temp of these bulbs is something like 15-16k approximately, but there are many, many instances of certain colors coming out better under LEDs because of their spectrum (than MH or even T5)... but it's not across the board more color, it's just certain ones stand out. I don't know what's happened to them, but Pacific East Aquaculture (site seems to be dead?) was posting pics of its acans under both standard and LED lighting (side by side) so you could see it under both and in most cases the LED lighting was more vivid. As for growth, I am seeing more/faster growth, but I don't think my experience should be a big indicator. I was having some trouble with pH (I haven't been able to attribute it to Ca, Mg, or Alk) for a lot of the time I was using the MH, so that certainly kept them from growing some. In the last few months of the MH it was good and the first few months of the LED I have noticed faster encrusting and spreading of frags.... then again I've also slightly increased flow since the LEDs and swapped for a better skimmer.... so I'm going to say it seems like I'm getting more growth, but it's really inconclusive because it could be a combination of a lot of things.

I've been running LEDs for close to 3 months now. In the last month I added another bulb. Over my 24G nano cube I have 3 21W PAR38 bulbs (2x 12k, 1x 20k) with 40 degree optics - a total of 63W. For reduced spotlighting, good coverage, and an open-top feel, I've got them positioned 18" over the tank. Growth has been good the entire time and my SPS have colored up better than my 150W 14k MH that I was previously running. Greens also pop out better with corals under the LED light - different spectrum of blues I suppose. The growth and coloration was good with only two bulbs, but because of the tight optics it left the sides and back of the tank fairly dim, so I added the 20k bulb to give a little more blue to the overall light and to get more even coverage of the whole tank. To my eyes the light in the tank is more intense under the beams, the reflected light in the room is also higher. Because of it being several point light sources, you do get some visible differences in the the way shadowing happens, but because of the number of lights it is not a big issue. I've also found that the rockwork in the tank makes more distinct shadows under it than with the MH.

All sold, thanks!

I don't see the "pressure regulator" side of things. To my knowledge, there's supposed to be a flow restrictor on the waste water line to improve the pressure on the whole system, and the flush valve should run in parallel to it so that when it's open, the restrictor is bypassed and you get much more flow over the membrane to flush it out. What I see from that pic - if it's of the flush valve on the waste water line - is that there is no restrictor in place to be bypassed (unless the blue tubing is one?... never seen one like that), so you basically have a valve that when open will do the exact same thing as when it's closed. The flush valve should be closed to get proper function of the membrane and good quality output water.

It could be a delayed reaction to the changes from the new tank. I swapped out my lighting almost 2 months ago (and augmented it a couple weeks back) and also recently swapped my skimmer for a better one. Even though the water changes and skimmer were keeping the params in check and the lighting was bright enough to keep the color going, my SPS were also showing less polyp extension than they had before. Just in the last couple of days I've noticed it has improved though - as well as coloration. These things also tend to improve when you've got your hands in the tank less often, so simply going without much maintenance with reasonable parameters for a while may be enough to get them completely happy again. Just my experience, I haven't been keeping SPS for too long (well, 9 months or so).

Odd... My PM box says I'm only 8% in Another person asked about the skimmer yesterday, but if that doesn't work out I'll try to PM you (if that's working!)

Once more! At the lower price of $30, this is one of the cheapest skimmers you can buy. It should outperform the cheap stock skimmers you can get for nanos, and while it doesn't pull the darkest skimmate - the day after I removed it from my tank (I installed the new tunze, but needed a replacement part to make it start) I saw an algae bloom (film, diatoms, and GHA) suddenly without any feedin (it was doing it's job!). Also the other things are as much as you want to pay for them. They were $1 each, I would give you them for free, but I won't go bending my schedule to hand them off in that case

That was supposed to say "wee bit"... would make more sense that way. Anyways, a bump to the top cause it's still on my table.

Also check for nudis - they'd be little white hairy things probably in the affected area. If not, corals can regrow around a live skeleton even if the flesh is gone (still bone white), but with time the skeleton will stop being viable and the tissue will no longer regrow over it.

There are plenty of people who have used various sized plastic containers for frag tanks and such without too many problems (at least in the short term). Make sure you get something reinforced or it won't be able to take the weight of the water (especially if the tank is high). Most of the ones used in LFSs and the like are the higher quality Rubbermaid Stock Tanks, those huge black plastic bins with drains built in. They do make them in 50G sizes, but I'm not sure where you could get them locally. That said if you're looking for a fry tank.... just look around on craigslist or go to a thrift store or something. You can get a used reasonably sized glass tank for cheap, and it should look nicer, make cleaning easier, etc.

Only a wee it remains, my kitchen table is getting cleaner!

Once more to the top. Got most stuff sold, but added the skimmer and still have the freshwater bits and the AC fuge.

I think an extra forum is unnecessary, and to be honest I like seeing info pertaining to small and large tanks alike - the principles are pretty much the same and they can be treated very similarly aside from stocking, though some solutions may be impractical because of the scale of either. If you've got nano-specific questions, I'd check out a nano specific community like nano-reef.com.. then again, there's enough people here keeping nanos that if you post here someone will be able to chime in.

ATO is sold, the tank and T5 fixture are pending. Lowered a couple of prices for all of you cheapskates

In a tank that size, I'd say yes... just because especially only with fans for cooling, it will take quite some time for the effect to be noticeable on the overall temperature. That is a big tank, after all.

Most I've heard mentioned come from ebay. Cheap low power strips that are flexible... not sure how well they really work, but they could certainly grow chaeto (doesn't take much), but it would probably be a more effective nutrient sponge with more light.

Replied, ATO pending.

So I've got some equipment that I'd like to get out of my tiny apartment. All of it works well, and almost all of it is used. Here's a pic of everything and a breakdown of what's there and how much it is: 150W Coralife clamp on metal halide fixture - SOLD 36W Nova Extreme T5 fixture - SOLD JBJ ATO Setup - SOLD 15 pound bag of Seachem Onyx substrate - SOLD 7.5G Mr. Aqua Bowfront rimless tank - SOLD Aquaclear filter modified to be a HOB refugium - SOLD AquaticLife internal mini protein skimmer 115 - SOLD Kent blackwater extract, misc porous filter media (bio filter in freshwater tanks), small container of freeze dried bloodworms - $whatever each JBJ Nano Glo 4x1W LED Refugium light - SOLD I have somewhat limited availability during the day , but I can work a pickup time out - especially if you don't mind coming at night. I live in the city near 51st and Lamar, and thanks to not having a car I can't deliver anything to you. If you're interested in something, or many somethings, shoot me an offer and if it's good we'll make a deal. Drop me a line if you have any questions, I'll check back on the forums pretty regularly, but by email to robodude1010 at comcast dot net would work too.

Use your biggest cheapest pot to boil it all - then move it out to the sun to dry. May not dry real quickly in this weather though..... Chlorine bleach seems like a bad idea.... that rock is very porous and it is very toxic.

The Pico branded aquariums are quite nice, and they come with the pump and equipment to get the back section running. Using a fluval edge has certainly been done, but to get coral-supporting lighting in that hood you really need an LED setup. I believe nanocustoms sells a DIY led retrofit for the edge.... I've also seen a fluval edge NPS tank which looks absolutely awesome. The key to going skimmerless is frequent water changes (at least once a week) and not overfeeding. I've actually got a 7.5G Mr. Aqua tank (from marine depot?) which is a nice sleek rimless option - though it is not an AIO. The nice thing about this tank is that it's 18" long so you can use some normal sized fixtures and there's space in the back for a HOB filter converted to a fuge or even a HOB skimmer.

There are quite a few parasitic marine isopods... generally clearish with black eyes and pill bug shaped (pill bugs are also isopods). While I've heard of many that are fish predators, I don't know of coral predators - but it's certainly a possibility. This is the chuck's page that mentions them, there are a few additional links: http://www.chucksaddiction.com/hitchpods.html