John Simon
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Everything posted by John Simon
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Individual treatment of each rock would be the only option then. Though changing the lighting and/or water chemistry by moving the rock from a lit tank to a tub will likely bleach the coralline. Coralline is very sensitive to lighting, pH, calcium and alkalinity changes.
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Anything that changes the pH up or down enough to kill the aiptasia is going to kill the coralline. You best bet if you are worried about the coralline would be to take each piece out and apply Joe's Juice (or similar compound) to each aiptasia individually. The caveat to that would be you can only get the aiptasia you can see there will likely be others that you won't see that would survive. What exactly are you trying to do and why are you so worried about the coralline as it will grown back quickly under good tank conditions.
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Looks like they will endure a very wide temp range: This site says 68-86F but mentions they will tolerate a wider range: Glass Anemone, Aiptasia pulchella, Sea Anemone Facts and Sea Anemone Pictures of the Tropical Sea Anemone This study took them up to high 90's, which caused bleaching: Aiptasia reveals new mechanisms of coral bleaching
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Maybe but you would probably need temps in the low 40-50's for an extended period of time which would likely kill anything else you had. Your best bet is a multi-pronged approach of peppermint shrimp (or a aiptasia eating nudi but they are very sensitve to water conditions), lowering nutrient levels and manual killing with either one of the commercial products or a home grown aiptasia killer.
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Right but if you read his site he is using macro algae and coral growth as his main forms of nutrient export/sequestration in addition to a 25% water change every 2 months.
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The short answer is no you do not need a protien skimmer. However you need some other form of nutrient export from the tank whether that be a large water changes, algae turf scrubber, refugium with macro, soft coral that is grown and harvested etc etc. The reason most people use a protein skimmer is it is one the easiest and quickest forms of nutrient export (well large water changes are probably the quickest).
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I haven't used DT's or Trigger Pods but if they are live salt water copepods I can't see why they would be any better then one another. 300 is probably enough to start with you don't need millions just enough to get a population started so they breed in your live rock. Course if you have something in your tank that eats them already (like a Mandirin) you might want to look at a in tank refugium as a safe breeding area. OZ REEF - In Tank Refugium
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Yes, I seed with bristle worms, spaghetti worms, copepods, amphipods and mysis from Indo Pacific and Inland Aquatics. I also have found it helpful to get a handful of sand from friend's tanks and LFS when possible to get a broad spectrum of micro fauna.
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I have been seeding all my tanks this way for years and have never had a clogging issue. I usually introduce the cultures once the live rock is in and let them breed in the tank for a couple months during cycling before I introduce something that will eat them. Both my current tanks have viable continually breeding populations of copepods, amphipods and mysis. Totally agree, I also regularly reseed the tanks every couple years with fresh populations of detrivores from both sources.
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Yes I seeded my tank with a cultures of copepods, amphipods and mysis shrimp before introducing any animals that might eat them. Not only do they provide food for larger animals but a good population of these small animals will help process uneaten food and other detritus. Couple good sources are: Inland Aquatics Homepage and : : : : Indo-Pacific Sea Farms : : : :
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Water parameters? Lighting changes? Any information would be great!
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I tried a ~6 years ago but it broke apart when it was curing (I tried to speed along the curing with some dilute vinegar solution so it was my fault). Do you have any pics of what you created?
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Before I travel I: -Feed the tank once or twice more then I normally do -Clean the skimmer a couple days before -Do the normal water change I might miss -Verify all my parameters are in line -Make sure my topoff reservoir is completely full Also healthy fish can go a week or two without being fed without issue so don't worry about that. Also a good idea to leave a set of keys with someone who can check on things if you are going to be gone longer then you plan or if something goes wrong. I also usually have a webcam and my rovio (mobile webcam) setup so I can check up on things while I am out.
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I run carbon all the time in a DIY reactor and change it monthly. Been doing it for years and see no issues. (note I also do 10% weekly water changes, use kalkwasser as topoff and have a calcium carbonate reactor). So your mileage may vary.
