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Get a RO/DI system or buy it somewhere


MrZ2u

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I live in Forest Creek and work from home so getting into RiverCity or AquaTek each week is not practical and I only need 5 gal a week so just the cost of water isnt going to justify owning a system.  Getting to the water jug in downtown RR is practical but their water is just RO and not DI.  Anyone know anyplace closer to me to get RO/DI or am I just gonna have to buy a system for practical purposes?  Or, I suppose, anyone know WaterJug and is their RO clean enough alone?

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I've seen some RO/DI and plain RO on CL recently that are not too bad and cheap.   In your "cost" you forgot to mention gas & time.  factor those in, owning your own system should pay itself back shortly.

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I didnt mention it specifically but I have totally factored that in...mostly wondering if there was any other place I was not aware of near me.  I am sure I am going to get a system anyway, just wondering if I could delay it a bit.  The more I think about it I really cant put it off.

 

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i usually have about 40-50g ro/di on-hand at any given time if you wanna drop by some day. im up around the ikea exit though.... so not really much diff there from forest creek *lol*

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Appreciate the offer but I would become a pest and besides, Ikea is a 22 mile round trip in a truck that gets 12mpg so we are back to the time and gas equation (BTW, River City is a 31 mile round trip so you and I arent as close as it seems :) )

I'm ordering one here soon.  Going to see if the FilterGuys.com will build me one without the 2nd carbon filter and with the DI inplace of it.  I have a whole house carbon filter in front of my softener already so there is hardly any chlorine in my water as it is...sediment either for that matter.  I just want to keep it as compact as possible cause I am going to put it in SWMBO's laundry room and she is not going to like it much I dont think...

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Are you needing ro/di water? I am over by dell diamond. I normally keep about 30 gallons of it....i had a tank break on me but have a small 20g running for now so keep that on hand if you need some water.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

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thanks but I am going to order a system actually...make the most sense really.  Yesterday afternoon I finally sold some things I had on ebay for a while so I am semi flush with cash at the moment which wont last long!  I remember now why its taken me so long to get back into this hobby :)

 

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Depending on what info someone comes back with on a craigslist add I may have one locally but I am not holding out hope honestly.

Leaning towards this one or its $50 cheaper version without the inline TDS meter and pressure gauge.  I have a whole house carbon filter that removes most of the chlorine before it gets to the water softener so having two in a RO/DI system is a little too redundant I think...though for $40 less I can have that via thefilterguys.com over the one below with the nifty included meter and one less filter but I also have $26 in points at marinedepot so...?  How useful/reliable do you think this meter is actually?

http://www.marinedepot.com/Marine_Depot_KleanWater_4_Stage_Advanced_RO_DI_System_100_GPD_90_to_180_Gallons_Per_Day_RO_DI_Water_Filter_Systems-Marine_Depot-MD9115-FIRORDNH-vi.html

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The meter is not super useful.  If you don't know where you stand, or if your water source changes, it gives you useful information.  Where I am I get 6-8ppm in, 0 out.  Super consistent, I don't turn it on anymore.

Just test for chloramines on your output.  Based on what you said, I think you'll be in good shape.  I've got two chambers of carbon of mine to make sure since I don't have any house filtering, but the levels are pretty low and I think I could get away with just the one in a pinch.

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inline tds is good, just depends on what you monitor.  handheld is good too.  my inline i have after the RO and after the DI.  I use the handheld to get raw TAP tds.  if you geta pressure guage, you want it before the RO, this way you detect pressure loss due to carbon/sediment filters being clogged.

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Seems there are quite a few of us looking for some RODI units... I wonder how many we'd have to order to get a decent discount on them from there or brs/etc.  I'm looking to get one myself and have been looking at the equivalent of the one you linked.

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we could just get a huge 4400gal/day system and setup a pipeline! yea!

http://austin.craigslist.org/for/5971866069.html

nah, but really.. theres always a decent one here or in san antonio off CL.  dont get too picky, settle for plain RO in standard canisters.  then buy a dual DI from BRS and carbon/sediment filters from ebay, and ro membrane from amazon and you are set.  more bang for your buck.  (things you dont trust when you buy second hand aquariumm wise.... return/supply pumps and filters)

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Isaac, Now your stealing my sayings bro........bro......

i would reccomend all 3, the inline TDS meter, the input pressure gauge with the pressure gauge and the extra carbon block.  

You really can't have enough carbon pre membrane but you can for sure have not enough.  The inline TDS meter to verify what you have going into your DI and what you have coming out, I actually run 4. One coming in one after sediment and cat carbon, one before DI and one after DI.  The pressure gauge is helpful because I find with a 1 micro sediment block the sediment block does get clogged up pre filter change sometimes.  If you have a 10psi or more drop between your input pressure and membrane your system my not be operating at peak performance.  Also your membranes are designed to work at a certain psi.  You need to make sure your falling within the psi range.

you need to check to see if whatever water district your in runs chloramines.  Also keep in mind they can start running chloramines at anytime and not notify you.  Your utility provider can provide you with water reports.  It's usually on their website.

the leading cause of algae and unexplained problems usually lead back to bad RODI water, top off water and fresh salt water.  

Sincerely,

the resident RODI filter fanatic

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Just now, Reburn said:

Isaac, Now your stealing my sayings bro........bro......

well, its not exact, but close :)

I have a RO tank on my system, so I added a permeate pump.  This is essentially a way to maintain higher pressures against the RO membrane for peak performance.

My RO/DI setup:

municipal line->crappy throwaway fridge inline block->sediment filter->carbon block->carbon block->ro membrane-|->di->di->55gal tank (for main tank)

                                                                                                                                                                                   |->5yr fridge filter->keurig

                                                                                                                                                                                   |->di->biocube

I left random valves and stuff out.

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As does Marine depot sort of...they have a staged coupon code plus 10% cash back till the 31st so its kinda more?

I am about to pull the trigger on their system I believe.  With my whole house filter I just dont know if I need two carbon filters on the RO/DI system.  I guess if it turns out I do I can remove the sediment and make it carbon.  Seems like I may be over thinking this thing considering my total volume over a single year will be like 300-ish gallons

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