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n2585722

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n2585722 last won the day on December 4

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About n2585722

  • Rank
    Advanced Aquarist
  • Birthday 11/15/1953

Profile Information

  • Location
    Cedar Park
  • Tank Size
    110g, 42g
  • Gender
    Male

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  • Controller Enabled
    No

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  1. n2585722

    42 Gallon Hex Tank Build

    Controller Homepage Now on to the homepage. Below is a view of my homepage. Just below the Archon name is the menu. It may take more than one line. depending on the device you are using and the way it is rotated to display the webpage. Below the menu there is two rows of tiles on the iPad or computer. On a phone it is all inline. The output first then below that the inputs. On a computer or tablet the left is outputs and the right is inputs. On a new Archon there would only be a few tiles displayed. The graph/webcam is either at the bottom of one of the rows or to the right of the input row. On a computer the graph can be double clicked to view the graph in full size. Double click again and it returns to normal size. You can choose up to 10 tiles of outputs and up to 10 tiles of inputs from all the outputs and inputs attached to the system. To choose click on the gear in the upper right side of either row. The screenshot below shows the screen after clicking one of the gears. To choose tiles click the box on the ones you want displayed on the home screen. If there are too many to fit on the screen you can scroll through them like here. In the screenshot below the output side is scrolled all the way to the end of the list. In the screenshot below the inputs have been scrolled all the way to the end of the list. At the end of either list is a update button. Once you have all the outputs and inputs selected you want displayed then click one of the update buttons to update the home page. The tiles have a symbol for a graph in the upper right corner of the tile. To display a graph click the appropriate graph symbol for the port you wish to view. In the screenshot below I clicked on the iTemp port of the Archon module. The graph for that port is shown in the graph display. You can move the slider below the graph to magnify a portion of the graph. The screenshot below shows the sliders moved to magnify the graph. I have the graphing set to sample every 5 minutes at this time. I think I am going to increase this to 15 minutes. If you click on the gear for Graph/Webcam you get to select either graph or webcam to be displayed. This is only for the current session. If you leave the webpage and come back it reverts to the default of graph. After you select and click done which ever one you selected will be displayed. In the case here I choose webcam. Also this screenshot was using Firefox. Most of the others are using Safari. The output tiles have Off Auto On across the bottom. You can click these to change that output to that state. A warning if you set an output to on or off it will remain there until you change it back to auto or the controller is reset. The output will only react to alarms if it is in auto. Be careful when scrolling. I usually try to stay on the center of the tiles. That way it doesn't accidentally get set to on or off. Below is a screenshot of the top left output Lunar White in the off mode. Below is a screenshot of the same output Lunar White in the on mode. This particular output is a varible output. In the on mode it will be on at 100%. All outputs and inputs can be named. I will get into changing the name during programming. The name you select is displayed in the upper left of the output tiles and upper middle of the input tiles. The upper left of the input tiles is displayed the module name the port is on. Modules can also be named. The upper middle of the output tiles displays that ports current state. The input tiles display the current reading or state in the bottom left of the tile. Switch inputs are displayed as open or closed.
  2. n2585722

    42 Gallon Hex Tank Build

    The Controller Initial Setup The Archon is easy to setup. It has it own WIFI hot spot that is on all the time. To setup the Archon you just plug in the power supply and plug the supply into an outlet. No need to hook any other modules at this time. I was an iPad these screenshots but you could use a computer or a phone also. Go to where you select the WIFI network you wish to connect with on the device you are using. The Archon should show as one of the networks. Choose the Archon network like in the photo below. Now launch your web browser. Firefox works best with the Archon. Also Safari works well. Type in 192.168.10.1 for the website address. You will get a login box to put in name and password. The default is Name : DigitalAquatics Password: password This can be changed in the setup page. Once logged in you will be on the home page of the Archon. My homepage in shown in the screenshot below. A new archon will not have all the output and input tiles that are on the screenshot below. Otherwise it will be the same. I will go over this page later but now we are interested in setup so click the setup button in the menu at the top above the input and output tiles. This will give you the screen below. The first thing to setup is the wireless setup. After that you can access the Archon over you network. Under wireless setup Click the show information button. Now you should have the wireless entry fields displayed on the right side of the screen. Click the down arrow on the SSID entry list box. Note: My system already had the wireless setup done. The wireless data fields will come up blank even if they were previously setup. This is not a fault in the system and was done as a security feature. Personal data that has been entered is not displayed after the webpage has been refreshed. This applies to most settings with personal information. A list will pop up with the networks available. Chose the one you want the Archon on. In my case I chose my network as shown below. Now select the encryption type used on that network. In my case I chose WPA2. Now enter the encryption key for the network. Then click the update button. Now click the View Information button under Update Archon Connection. This is to find out what name is used by the Archon. It is archon on mine. Look under Set Hostname. You can also change this, the port and the access point address when on the Archon network here. I don't see any reason to change these. Now you can get back on the network you connected the Archon to if you want. Or you can do the rest of the setup from here. To change the login and password just enter the name and password you want in the appropriate fields below Archon Login & Password then click the Save Login/Password button. To set the email address or addresses you want alerts emailed Type in the address or addresses in the field below Setup Email. If more than one address separate them with a comma. Click the update button. Then you can click test to see if you receive a test email. The only thing left is to turn on/off additional interfaces. The only thing there is EcoTech. You can select whether the EcoTech button is present on the menu bar. If you click the EcoTech button it forwards you to the login webpage for reeflink. The screen shot of additional companies is in the photo below. I do have the reeflink so I can get to that webpage from the Archon controller webpage by clicking the EcoTech button. Once you log into the network you setup the Archon to be on you should be able to enter the hostname with a / for the website to access the Archon. In my case that is "archon/". The screenshot below is of the homepage on my Archon after login via the network. You will have to enter the name and password you chose during setup to get into the Archon. If you didn't change it then it will still be the default name and password listed earlier. After setup you can still use the WIFI hot spot to access the Archon if needed. Once setup you can attach the modules in the order that you wish them to be in the tiles. That is it for initial setup of the Archon. I will get into homepage setup and programming later.
  3. n2585722

    42 Gallon Hex Tank Build

    Dynon Avionics is still around. They just decided to drop the Digital Aquatics line. I guess they needed the manufacturing output for their avionics products. I wish they could have found a way to keep Digital Aquatics going though. I became freinds over the years with the employees that were layed off when they shut it down. I will continue to use mine as long as I can keep it running or until I find something I like better. I started a thread here https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/alternatives-to-digital-aquatics-probes-and-parts.439573/ for replacement parts and probes.
  4. n2585722

    42 Gallon Hex Tank Build

    The Controller This I guess is a good time to talk about the controller. Originally I chose the Reefkeeper Elite as my controller. That was in October 2008. I purchased the Reefkeeper system with the NET module. Like most new toys I did not just leave it in the box until I was ready to use it. I hooked it up and got started with programming the controller. I even got a container of salt water for the various probes. Before long I was helping others with programming on the manufacturer's forum. It wasn't long before the manufacturer in this case Digital Aquatics noticed. They ask about my background and then ask if I would like to be a Team DA member. So naturally I said yes. A Team DA member is not a Digital Aquatics employee but was there to help other fellow aquarist with programming issues and answering the common questions that new users might have. I did this for several years. One of the perks was I got to try out new things before they were available to the general public. I didn't get every module or new device. It has to be something I could use and put through it's paces. One of the items I got to try out is their Archon controller as a beta tester. So by the time I had the tank up and running I had the Archon in hand ready for the tank. The Archon improved quite a bit since it was first introduced. It is basically a Linux based computer with a built in module. The built in module has a interface for the buss used by all the Reefkeeper modules. The same modules that are used with the Reefkeeper Elite and Reefkeeper Lite. There are 4 of these buss ports on the Archon ( upper right part of Archon in photo below). One is dedicated to a iTemp temp probe ( the bottom of the 4 buss ports in photo below). The other three can be used to connect to any of the modules (the silver buss cable in the upper right is connected to one these ). The Archon comes with it's own power pack so buss power is not an issue. The other ports are 2 ports that can be configured for either pH or ORP ( the two BNC's in upper left), 4 switch input ports, 4 0-10v ports, 2 PWM ports. Two of the 0-10v ports ( between the pH ports and the RJ45 jacks middle left with white wires hooked to them) have the same connector as the APC module. So the same cables used with the APC can be used with the Archon. The switch ports, other 2 0-10v ports and PWM ports are accessed via 2 RJ45 jacks (the silver cables are hooked here bottom left). There is a module that breaks these out to terminals. It is the IOE module( above the Archon on the left). Only one IOE is required per Archon. You can also use you own cables or use a cat 5 cable to break out the individual wires. There is one USB port (Right side of Archon near bottom) which is currently used for a USB drive. All the boot up files and graphing is stored here. Once booted up only the graphing is done on the USB drive. The remaining is a wired network jack (on right just above USB port) and the power jack ( on right between buss jack and network jack). The module in the upper left corner is the IOE module. I am currently using two of the switch inputs and the two PWM outputs. There are three terminals strips to the right of the IOE . The one on the left goes back to the back cabinet and then is connected to a cable up to the canopy. This has the two PWM channels hooked to it from the IOE module. These are used for the control of the royal blue and UV lighting. The center terminal strip is connected to two of the 0-10v outputs from the Archon ( the white wires are connected to this ). The terminal strip on the right goes to a terminal strip in the back cabinet. This has one switch inputs connected from the IOE and one of the 0-10v outputs from the center terminal strip. The switch input is connected to the back float switch used for leak detection. Another switch input from the IOE is connected to the front leak dection float switch. The 0-10v output controls the intensity of the lights for the refugium. The module below the Archon on the left is a SW5 module. It has 4 switch inputs and 1 relay output. The switch inputs are connected to 4 float switches in the sump. One is low level, one is full switch and one is overfull. The fourth can be used to replace one of the others. At the moment it is setup as a secondary full switch below the level of the other full swtich. This controls a backup ATO pump. The relay output is used to control the cooling fans for the sump. The module to the right of the SW5 is an SLX module. It has a temp input, pH input, ORP input and two switch inputs. One of the switch inputs is used on a float switch in the sump to control a pump to fill the sump in the event the return pump is off. The module just below the SLX module is a SL2 module. It has a temp input, pH input, salinity input and two switch inputs. The switch inputs are not currently used. As I stated earlier I was a beta tester so I had temp, pH, ORP and salinity probes hooked to all available inputs. At one time I had another module connected with all probes. At this time I have 3 temp probes, three pH probes, two ORP probes and one salinity probe in the tank. The original RKE head unit is still mounted in the door om the front of the stand. It is no longer hooked to the system though. I have another raised panel, but have not got around to changing it out at this point. There is a HUB module ( module above power bars in photo below ) mounted in the back cabinet. This is basically a 5 way buss splitter. One connection is connected to a keystone coupler on the back panel. This is connected to a wall plate that goes to the modules in the garage. Three of the connections are connected to a PC4 power bar each. The power bars are in the back cabinet. Two of the power bars are then connected to the module or modules in the front cabinet. The module on the left is connected to one PC4 and the modules on the right are connected to the other. The third PC4 power bar is connected to the modules in the canopy. These modules are the MLC to control the moon pods and the AVC module which controls the red, green, blue and white lighting .The last HUB connection is connected to one of the buss connectors on the Archon. In the photo below are two of the three PC4's in the back cabinet. The one on the right controls the power to the MP10's, return pump and skimmer. The one on the left controls the two reactor pumps and two heaters. Below im the photo is the third PC4 power bar. This one now controls the power to the Refugium lights, 24v supply, Swabbie and pump used to fill sump when return pump is turned off. There are three power bars, a HUB module in the garage. Two are PC4's and one is a PB4. There are also 5 DP1 dosing pump modules. One dosing pump is used for ATO and two for auto water change. The other two are not used at the moment but are avalible in the event one being used has an issue and needs to be replaced till it can be repaired. The only issue being if it is one of the auto water change pumps the replacement will need to be calibrated to the remaining pump. The dosing pump modules have two switch inputs each. These are used to monitor the levels in the storage tanks and leak detection. The power bars control the three solenoids used on the RODI and any pumps used in the garage. One is the input to the RODI. There is another that controls flow to the DI storage tank and one that controls flow to the mixing tank. The RODI is used for RO water to my fridge also so the input turns on for 10 minutes every hour to refill the bladder in the RO storage tank. The solenoids cannot be powered full time so this was the only option I could come up with. If the DI tank goes empty the DI and input solenoids will be turned on until it is full. This tank holds about ten gallons. If the mixing tank is emptied the input solenoid and mix solenoid it turn on until the tank is full. Then I just have to add the salt mix to get it ready for use. I have another tank where fresh salt water is stored for the auto water changes. I have enough spare power bars and modules to set up my 110 if I am still using the controller by then. Unfortunately the manufacturer decided to get out of the hobby controller business. I did find other options for some of the replacement parts.
  5. n2585722

    42 Gallon Hex Tank Build

    Power Supply Holders I had four power supplies that were in the back cabinet. they were just stuffed in. So I decided to make some holders for them and also a holder for the fan speed controller which would also hold a couple of modules for the controller. Below is a photo of the power supply holders assembled and ready to install. The back cabinet is behind the holders laying on it's side. I was also making changes on it when these were done. Below is a photo of the power supplies with the holders. The top one on the left is the 24 volt supply for the lighting. The one below it on the left is the 12 volt supply used for the lighting and fans. The two on the right are the supplies for the MP10's. Below is a photo of the fan controller holder. On one side it holds the fan controller and on the other side It can hold two of the standard size controller modules. Below is a photo of the side that has the mount for the two modules. It only has one module installed but could have another just below the one that is there. There is one holder barely visible to the left of the left power bar. The other is mounted to the right of the right power bar. Both of these were power supplies for the two MP10's. The back cabinet was off the stand when this photo was taken. Below is a photo from the other side of the cabinet. This is the side with the fan controller mounted at the top. The holder to the left of the power bar has the 12 volt power supply. The holder to the right has the 24 volt power supply. I am thinking of building a cabinet and placing it behind the back cabinet to house these supplies. This will free up some room in the back cabinet, but would cause more cables outside the stand. Not sure yet on this idea.
  6. n2585722

    42 Gallon Hex Tank Build

    Thank you.
  7. n2585722

    42 Gallon Hex Tank Build

    Dosing Pump Stand I had a tube split on one of my dosing pumps which allowed saltwater to get into the motor since I just had them laying on a table. So I decided to make a stand to mount them on to keep them in a vertical position. Hoefully this will keep the soultion out of thr motor and electronics in the event of a leak. I also put trim around the base to pool a leak so I could add leak detector. Below is a photo of the start of the project. The back board for mounting the pumps along with the base or tray with trim added to one side. I made a template to use in making the end pieces. The end piece is made of two boards glued together. i used a router to trim away all access except for what was under the template. Below is a completed end piece along with the completed backboard and tray assembly. In the lower right corner is the board for another end piece. In the photos below is the completed stand ready for paint. In the photos below is the painted stand with the pumps mounted ready to go.
  8. n2585722

    42 Gallon Hex Tank Build

    Reactor Stand I got a recirculating bio pellet reactor awhile back, but when I installed it behind the back cover the water temp would start to climb. It was obstructing the pass through opening too much. So I just abandoned that project until a few months ago. I decided to make a stand to lift it up away from the pass through opening. Below is a photo of the pieces cut and ready for assembly. The back side is shown below assembled with the pocket holes plugged. The back side assembly from the other side. This was scrap lumber that was used for this project. Below is the back side sanded and ready to go. Below is the other side of the back side sanded and ready to go. Below is the front side sanded ready to go. This side is missing the bottom rail so that it can straddle all the return and drain lines along with the power cables and conduit. Below is the other side of the front side. The photo below shows a bottom cross brace assembled to the front side. Below is a bottom cross brace attached to the back side. Below is the front and back attaced by the bottom cross braces. All the pocket holes were done with a Kreg pocket hole jig. That kit was well woth the money I spent in it. The top braces are attached and ready for the pocket hole plugs. Top braces plugged and sanded. In the photo below I set the reactor on the stand to check the fit. It looks good, so ready to paint. Below is the stand painted and ready to go from the front. This reactor stand has the same rubber coating as the inside of the tank stand. Below is the stand from the back view. Below is a photo of where the reactor stand will go. As you can see if the front side had a bottom rail you would have to disconnect the return and drain lines along with the conduit to get the stand in and out. Below you can see the stand in place ready for the reactor. With the reactor in place and running the temp can be held at 78.1. So it looks like this project is a success. It has now been operating for awhile now without any temp issues. Below are two photos of the reactor in place.
  9. n2585722

    42 Gallon Hex Tank Build

    You are right about the mahogany. I think they called in African Mahogany.
  10. n2585722

    42 Gallon Hex Tank Build

    Sump Continued I made a probe holder that sits in the baffles between the skimmer section and the return section. Below is a photo of the completed probe holder. I did manage to get some photos during tue build procees on this part. Below is a photo of the parts for the holder. I drilled more holes than I planned to use. At this point I have a temp probe in this holder. Below are photos of one side being glued to cross part. I used double sided tape with a square to tape down two triangles and a space fixture. then once glue was in place I used the square and another straight edge to get it attached properly. The process was repeated for the other side. I also made a assembly for the cooling fans and a assembly for the float switches with a probe holder. This is also used for bulkheads for the return for a reactor and auto water change lines. Unfortunatly I don't have any photos of the build process for these. The fan assembly was made to fit across the sump. I have it placed to straddle the skimmer and return section. Below is two photos of the float switch mounting assembly. This fits above the return section with the probe holder section over the refugium section. There are eight larger holes that allow the mounting of the probe holders that Avast Marine sells. These will clamp around a 1/2" tube. I used 1/4" schedule 80 PVC pipe for most of the float switch extensions. The schedule 80 has an outer diameter of 1/2". I just drilled and tapped one end for the float switches. The other holes are 1/2" holes that will allow the guest style bulkhead connectors or a probe. With the bulk head connectors the white insert has to be removed. I was using the inserts to help stabilize the probes. There were glued imto place with a pliable glue and be removed as needed. In fact I think most of them have came loose at this time. That just leaves the corner boxes which are currently not in use. I did get a few photos of the build. The previous parts were made with 1/4" acrylic. The corner boxes were made with 1/8" acrylic except for the base wich is 1/4". Below are two of the sides and ends of the box. The acrylic triangles in upper left corner of this photo are used to aid in the assembly and are not a part of the boxes. The two shot sides are ready to be glued together in the photo below. The triangles are used to get the right angle on the joint. The photo below is the two pieces glued together. The overlap will be trimmed with the router once the glues is dry. In the photo below the assembly is ready to be glued to third side on the long side. The triangles are used here to keep the two side straight during glue process. Below is a photo of the assembly and the last side to be attached. Below is the assembly with all sides glued. It just needs to be trimmed. Below the assembly is ready for the ends. Below the bottom has been attached. It just needs to be trimmed with the router. Below the top is ready to be attached. Below the top has been attached. It just needs final trim. Below are photos of the assembled unit with base attached.
  11. n2585722

    BPB'S 90 GALLON SPS DOMINANT

    I am with Sierra Bravo on this. All the organics that are killed off will end up in the solution. There is no telling what you will end up with it sealed for months of letting it ferment. As cheap as vinegar is I would toss the solution after each use. I usually end up with lots of little critters including serpent stars after dipping my MP10's. I try to get the serpant stars out but sometimes they hide where I don't see them until it is too late. I usually find a container that what ever I am trying to clean will just fit allowing me to use the least amount possible.
  12. n2585722

    42 Gallon Hex Tank Build

    The Sump After browsing Marc's website http://www.melevsreef.com/. I decided to try and make my own sump. Marc has excellent direction on how to build a sump. Below in the two photos is what I came up with. After running it in the stand in place for a few weeks I was ready to add the drain manifold and add the places for probe holders and float switches. I also made a fan holder for the cooling fans. In the photo below it shows the sump ready to go. I slowly removed the media out of the corner boxes after the tank cycled. I also removed the corner boxes but still have them if I ever need them again. The skimmer is a SWC 120 with a Swabbie from Avast Marine installed. The return pump is a Sicce 3.0. The float switches are mounted to 1/4 PVC. The PVC is held in place with probe holders I purchased from Avast marine. The switches can be raised or lowered to set the level that they are triggered. The bottom one is used for low sump level alarm. The upper one is used for the over full alarm. The middle one is just to alert the controller that the sump is full. I eventually added 2 more float switches. One can be setup to replace either of the other three float switch in the event one goes out on me. So the sump can continue to operate until the bad switch can be replaced. The other is for a pump used to pump from the overflow down to the sump in the event the return pump stops. This is to ensure there is enough water in the sump to restart the overflow siphon when the pump turns back on. Unfortunately there is not a lot of room under a 42 gallon hex tank for a rectangular sump. This was the biggest one I could fit in the stand. It is close to 10 gallons if completely full. In fact a 10 gallon tank will fit in place of the sump. The scotch tape with the mark is the water level needed to restart the pump and start the siphon in the overflow. The probes in the photo's are there just to show the probe holders. They are either temp or salinity probes in this case. Below are a couple of other photo of the sump ready to go. The auto water change draws water from the small refugium area which is on the right in the photos. The fresh salt water is added to the return section. The two fans are for evaporative cooling. They are set to come on at 78.1 and turn off at 77.9. So far the only issues have been a impeller failure on the return pump, a few float switches and a couple of fans.
  13. n2585722

    42 Gallon Hex Tank Build

    Lighting Continued In the current configuration the six blue LED's were replaced with royal blue 1.5 amp LED's. The six white LED's were replaced with 3 amp netural white LED's. Even though the white LED's will take 3 amp the largest driver is only 1.5 amps so these are run at a max of 1.5 amps. Four UV LED's were added along with a deep red LED and cyan LED. These are 750 ma LED's. The white and royal blue LED's were Cree LED's. I am not sure on the others. Also two red moon pods were added next to the other moon pods. Also I got a chance to beta test a module for the controller manufacturer that had four output channels that could be programmed as either 0-10v, 5v PWM or 10v PWM. I will get into the controller at a later time. This increased my channels from two to 6 for the 5v PWM outputs which I need for the Meanwell drivers. Now there are 6 seperate control channels. red, green, blue, white, royal blue and UV. The deep red is with the red LED's and the cyan is with the green LED's. Each channel has it's own timer, ramp time, max output and min output. At the moment they all have the same ramp rate 4 hours and min output at 0. They do have seperate timers but have the same timing so one timer would work in this case. The timers are set to come on at 10:00am. They are out by 8:00pm. At 8:00pm the moon pods are on. The amount of light depends on the moon cycle. The difference is the max output between the six channels. These are currently set at percentages below. Channel Output Red 25 Green 25 Blue 25 White 45 Royal Blue 50 UV 35 I only have LPS and zoanthids at this point. Below is a photo of the array at 2% on for the LED's. This was taken with a iPad and the light from the LED's caused the striping. The two closest to the center are RGBW LED's. The Cyan is to the left of these and the deep red is to the right of these. The six with the large lenses are the netural white. The six blue with the brightest output are the royal blue with the 1.5 amp driver. The other six blues are royal blue with 1 amp driver. The four singles between the clusters of three are the UV LED's. If I remember correctly all the lenses are 80 degree lenses. The RGBW's have no lenses but they do have the lens holders to use like a reflector. The RGBW's are mainly for viewing if I shorthen the time on for the LED's that are used for the high output I can still keep a longer viewing time. Below is a photo of the module with the four programmable outputs with the wire harnesses I made to connect the outputs to the driver boards. Each wire harness is color coded there is one black wire for ground and one colored wire. The color of the wire matches the color of the LED's. The white channel goes to two boards so it has two connection points. There are two boards in use. One board is supplied with 24 volts and one board is supplied with 12 volts. If the LED string has more than 3 LED's then the driver is on the 24 volt board. If it has up to 3 in the string then the driver is on the 12 volt board. The photo below has the 24 volt board. This has the drivers for the netural white, both royal blue and the UV LED's. The outputs to the LED's are on the left. The control signals and power input are on the right side of the board. The outputs from both boards are hooked to the terminal strips on the LED fixture on the left side of the photo. The 24 volt supply is capable of up to 5 amps and the 12 volt up to 3 amps. The 12 volt supply also supplies the power to all 9 fans used in the stand and canopy. The photo below has the 12 volt drivers. Just like the other board the terminals on the left are the LED outputs. The terminals on right are the control inputs and the power input. The larger black wires are the wires from the four moon pods. Below is the control module for the moon pods. Below is a photo of the control module for the red, green, blue and white channels. The royal blue and UV are controlled from two PWM channels from the main control unit in the front cabinet of the stand. Below is a photo inside the lid of the canopy. The terminal assembly just above the LED fixture has the two signals from the main controller. That terminal assembly is fed from the keystone coupler just under the lid next to the left hinge. The keystone coupler to the left of that one is the controller buss to the two modules. I still have not got around to cleaning up and mounting the boards or modules yet, but then again I may be changing it in the future. It just depends on if I find something better. I checked the outputs with a PAR meter at various points in the tank. One set is with outputs at 50% and one set at 100%. Below is the charts along with a photo of the tank. The top is at top center just above the surface of the water. The ledge was one just above the lower blue damsel. The bottom was between the rock work on the gravel. The corner was the far left corner at the bottom. 50% Blue White Both Top 544 297 820 Ledge 227 118 335 Bottom 137 78 220 Corner 55 49 100 100% Blue White Both Top 895 493 1427 Ledge 383 200 597 Bottom 222 127 344 Corner 102 83 180
  14. n2585722

    42 Gallon Hex Tank Build

    Lighting I originally started this build to experiment with using LED's on a reef tank. At that time there were just a couple of off the shelf LED fixtures. I decided to use my own so I could change the configuration as needed. I started with 6 blue, 6 Royal Blue, 6 Cool White and 2 RGBW LED's with three drives. The drivers were Meanwell ELN-60-48D. It has been so long ago I don't remember which channel each LED was hooked to but there were originaly 2 control channels that were 0-10 volts. Below is a photo of two of the drivers used in the original configuration. In addition to the high output LED's there were two lunar pods with two LED's each. One was white and the other blue. The High power LED's were placed in multiples of three. Each cluster had one blue, one royal blue and one white. In the center were the two lunar pods with a RGBW on each side. I believe that all the blues were wired together with the whites seperate. Since the RGBW LED's were 700ma I think they were wired together on the third driver. The original configuration would draw 118 watts at full brightness. Below is a photo of the PAR reading of the original configuration at full output. That was with the sensor palced at the bottom of the tank without water. Below is a photo with the lights on during testing without water. The main issue with this configuration was that the light did not come on until the control voltage was at around 1 volt. At this point the lights would light but at around 10%. This was already quite bright. So I decided to try PWM drivers. This required the use fo some type of converter from 0-10 volts to PWM. The controller output had two 0-10 volt outputs and a oitput to control a AI fixture. So while I was at ti I decded to comvert this serial data into a PWM output. Thie required that I come up with my own comverter. I decided to use a Microchip controller for this that had 5 PWM outputs. I used a serial input and two 0-5 volt inputs to convert. Below is a photo of the main screen of the display. I never got past the breadboard with it but it did work for what I needed at the time. Below is a photo of the home screen that displays the intensity in percent of the 5 channels. On this the atinic was the royal blue LED's. There was a 5 button keypad not shown to navigate through the menus. Below is a series of photos of the display of the converter in different modes. I chose to use Meanwell LDD drivers. I was able to get into a buy of someone having some PC board built. Below is a photo of the front and back of a completed board. With the controller I have now I need to go back and add the pull down resistors to the boards since if there is a power failure or the controller is rebooted they will be in full on state if it is a time span when the lights are normally off. Below is a photo with three drivers installed in one of the boards. The photo below was taken at later date. At the time the LDD-1500L was not available. I modified one of the boards to accommodate the 1500L's. This happens to be a spare board with spare drivers installed. I have two spare boards. The configuration using the coverter never left the garage. By the time I installed the tank in the house I had a new controller that had two PWM outputs. More on the controllers later on. I will get to the current configuration next.
  15. n2585722

    42 Gallon Hex Tank Build

    Thank you, I had a tank setup in the 90's. With that experence I am trying to add in things that will prevent the issues I had with the past tank. Since I was building my own canopy and stand I was able to try some things to help prevent issues I had with that system. The most common was leaks from equipment. These usually did not get noticed until they became a major issue.
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