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n2585722 last won the day on May 4

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About n2585722

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  • Birthday 11/15/1953

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  • Location
    Cedar Park
  • Tank Size
    110g, 42g
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  1. The last tank is the mix tank. It has three sensors. A low sensor, a full sensor and a pressure sensor. Below is the setup for the Mix Low sensor. It is connected to a sense port. It is a float switch. The Sense Mode is Water Level. The sense port is on a Control 2 in the garage. When this input was setup there were no notification settings so this output does not send a notification. If I change one of the notification settings it will start sending the notifications. This is a new feature on the new firmware. Below is the Mix Full sensor setup. It also uses a sense port and is also
  2. Thank you, I am trying to add enough detail to the thread so someone that wants to try the things I have done they have a good place to start.
  3. Before I get into the mix tank I figured I go over the settings for the mix tank ready part. First off is the switch input setup. I named it Mix Ok To Use. I am using one of the 0-10v inputs for the user switches. This one is setup as a pushbutton. The input is the 4th 0-10v input on the Control 4 in the garage. The trigger voltage is set to 0 volts. When the 0-10v input goes to that voltage this input will be active. It is set to stay active for 15 seconds. Another press will end the active event. The input above is used on the output below. This one is named Mix Ready Start. It is
  4. Next is the fresh salt water storage tank. It has a full sensor and a low level sensor. When the low level sensor is triggered it shuts off the AWC output. It will also trigger a transfer from the mix tank to the fresh saltwater tank if the mix ready latch is on. I will go into that when talking about the mix tank. Below is the screenshot for the full output that follows the full sensor. It uses the Generic Type With a Input Count of 1. Input 1 is the FSW Full sensor input. It is set to Active when wet. This output will be on if water goes above the sensor. Below is the FSW Low outpu
  5. The DI tank has three sensors. Two are for control and one is a pressure sensor I am using to give me an Idea of how full the tank is without rolling it out from under the bench and lifting the lid to check it. The first three screenshots are the setup for the three inputs for these sensors. The first on is for the DI low sensors. This is used to stop the ATO if the tank is low. It also triggers the refill sequence. It is a sensor connected to a sense port. It is a float switch. The Sense Mode is Water Level. The port the the sensor is connected to is a Control 2 sense port 2. That is it for s
  6. All control of the RODI unit and the three storage tanks are controlled by the Hydros system now. I used some unique output setups to do this. The first is control of the RODI unit itself. I turn off the flow to the RODI unit when not in use. It does have a ASOV valve but I did have a leak once about two weeks after I replaced the filters so now I have a way to stop the flow if a leak is detected. Unfortunately the solenoids I got are not intended to be on constantly. I also use the unit for RO water to the ice maker and the water dispenser on the fridge. I have a tank with a pressurized bladd
  7. Update on control board in the garage. Below is current photos. I am still working on the right side with the valves and pumps. The ATO pump and the All for Reef dosing pump are now in the lower shelf assembly. The All for Reef pump is upper right. The ATO is below it. Both use the same tube to dispense to the sump. The pump with the two green heads will hopefully be used for AWC. I still need to get the plumbing completed for it. Right now the two pumps behind the scope are the AWC pumps. All the dosing pumps in use are controlled by the Hydros system. The photo below is of the valv
  8. I have three water level sensors hooked to three of the inputs. I have them measuring the water level in my storage tanks. The reading is in percentage of full. I used NXP pressure sensors and a amp circuit. I have found some NXP pressure sensors since that have a 0-5v output I might five a try. The ones I currently use have a 20mv output. The circuit is temp sensitive and unfortunately the tanks are in the garage. So I need to see if I can reduce the variance due to room temp.
  9. I have no experience with Neptune controllers. The Hydros is similar to the DA in there is no coding. You create a input or output and assign a port to it. On an output you don't have to assign a port and it will still work logically as an output. Like a virtual output. For logic they have a Combiner output that accepts input form other outputs which can be inverted if needed. You can use it as an AND or OR combiner, like a gate. The generic output can accept up to 9 inputs as control. So far I have only used a couple inputs at most per output. I have not found a task that the Hydros could not
  10. Garage build update. I have got a little further along on the pump and valve side of the board. The auto refill of my DI storage and mix tank are under Hydros control. I added another Control 2 to the garage and also added a control unit to the stand. I have to figure out a way to mount it there. It will not mount facing out and have the door close. It will fit on its side but the mtg holes are on the bottom. I can alway mount it in the back cabinet but I will have to wait till I can remove the Digital Aquatics power bars that are there. I am now controlling the return pump, skimmer and one of
  11. I have got a little further with control board for the garage. I still have to do the boards for the pumps valves and solenoids. That will get my workbench cleared. The top left corner has the two remaining PC4's in the garage. The left one energizes relays and the contacts activate a sense ports on the Hydros collective. The right one still powers the pumps that dispense from the tanks on demand. One of them does transfer water from the mixing station to the fresh salt water tank when needed and the mix tank is ready to use. The relays are mounted on the din rail on the bottom board. The din
  12. The AWC ( Auto Water Change ) has been transferred to the Control 4 . I programmed an output on the Archon to signal the Control 4 that everything is ok to proceed with the AWC. The output programming is in the screenshot below. The output is programmed as normally off. It is setup to turn on if any of the selected alarms are true. The leak detectors, sump overfull, sump under full or salt water storage low alarms will turn on this output which will alert the Control 4 not to run the AWC. The Control 4 alert input is programmed as shown in screenshot below. It uses a sense port set a
  13. Since the Control 4 has 4 0-10v input I thought I would try and use 3 of them to monitor the level in my three storage tanks in the garage. I have 2 circuits breadboarded and I made one on a PC board with a layout like the breadboard. This is mounted in a box that will sit on top of the tank. Below is a photo of the circuit. It has the pressure sensor, DC to Dc converter for +12v and -12v to power the amp which is a INA128. There is a pot for offset and one for gain. Below is the box with the cover in place. Below is a screenshot of the inputs from the hydros. DI Level, FS
  14. I am still not sure how this sensor is going to work out. At the moment I may integrate the float switches in as a fail safe when I go to controlling the DI fill with the Hydros. In the interim I am adding in some relays and using the float switch to energize the relays so I can connect them to both controllers.
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