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n2585722

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n2585722 last won the day on January 10

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About n2585722

  • Rank
    Reefaholic
  • Birthday 11/15/1953

Profile Information

  • Location
    Cedar Park
  • Tank Size
    110g, 42g
  • Gender
    Male

Controller Integration (Signature)

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    No

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  1. I have got a little further with control board for the garage. I still have to do the boards for the pumps valves and solenoids. That will get my workbench cleared. The top left corner has the two remaining PC4's in the garage. The left one energizes relays and the contacts activate a sense ports on the Hydros collective. The right one still powers the pumps that dispense from the tanks on demand. One of them does transfer water from the mixing station to the fresh salt water tank when needed and the mix tank is ready to use. The relays are mounted on the din rail on the bottom board. The din
  2. The AWC ( Auto Water Change ) has been transferred to the Control 4 . I programmed an output on the Archon to signal the Control 4 that everything is ok to proceed with the AWC. The output programming is in the screenshot below. The output is programmed as normally off. It is setup to turn on if any of the selected alarms are true. The leak detectors, sump overfull, sump under full or salt water storage low alarms will turn on this output which will alert the Control 4 not to run the AWC. The Control 4 alert input is programmed as shown in screenshot below. It uses a sense port set a
  3. Since the Control 4 has 4 0-10v input I thought I would try and use 3 of them to monitor the level in my three storage tanks in the garage. I have 2 circuits breadboarded and I made one on a PC board with a layout like the breadboard. This is mounted in a box that will sit on top of the tank. Below is a photo of the circuit. It has the pressure sensor, DC to Dc converter for +12v and -12v to power the amp which is a INA128. There is a pot for offset and one for gain. Below is the box with the cover in place. Below is a screenshot of the inputs from the hydros. DI Level, FS
  4. I am still not sure how this sensor is going to work out. At the moment I may integrate the float switches in as a fail safe when I go to controlling the DI fill with the Hydros. In the interim I am adding in some relays and using the float switch to energize the relays so I can connect them to both controllers.
  5. As I said in the previous post I started testing a MXP2010 pressure sensor to see if I can measure storage tank level with it. I have a circuit made up to test in two storage tanks. I have a 0-10v output hooked up to two of the 0-10v inputs on the Control 4. I only had it working for a few days. I did find out that pressure is temp sensitive and is worse the longer the tubing. I had to shorten the length to just above the lids of the tanks. So for now I have the sensors on top of the tanks and cables running to the circuit on the bench. It is on a breadboard at this point. Below is a screen s
  6. I have switched auto top off over to the Control 4. Below is the setup screen for the input used to control the ATO. This input has s currently coming from a output on my Archon. It will indicate dry when the sump is below full level and none of the alarms on the Archon that control the Archon output are not active. To set the type of input you select from a drop down list like the screenshot below. I this case I am using one of the four sense ports here so I selected sense port for the type. Below is a screenshot of the different sense modes available for a sense port.In t
  7. I got some new stuff for my tank back in November. I have started to transfer over the task in the garage to the new controller. So far I really like the new controller. I have it doing the ATO and auto water change for the tank.
  8. I got some Neptune equipment for the first time for my storage tanks. I purchased 3 PMUP-T pumps to add to each storage tank. The pumps in the DI and fresh saltwater tanks are for dispensing water into containers when needed without having to pull the tank out from under the workbench and removing the lid to get water. plan is to add a push button to use to dispense when pressed.For now I am just turning them on via the iPad and turning them back off when finished. The third pump is for transferring the contents of the mixing tank to the fresh saltwater tank when the fresh salt water tank bec
  9. I did switch to a different style of jack at the tanks. It is still the RJ45 jack. The new one is shown in the photo below. I ran shot on them and seen these when ordereing and decided to give them a try. This is the top of the mix tank. The 1/4" line going to the center bulkhead is the DI line used to refill the tank with DI after the mixed water is transferred to the fresh salt water tank. The 3/8 line to the right goes to the fresh salt water tank. A pump is usd to transfer the water. Both have manual valves to close off the lines if needed. The transfer and DI refill is automated cia the
  10. I don't think I ever got into the Brute storage tanks I use for DI water, fresh salt water and salt mixing tank. I have three 20 gallon cans with dolly kits. To use them I had to modify the lid by drilling holes for the fill and despense hookups along with holes for the level sensors. In this case the sensors are float switches. There are two for each tank. A full sensor and a low level sensor. All the tanks are almost the same give or take a few holes in the lid. I will show some photos for the lid for the DI tank. Since everything is done to the lid if I need to switch out a tank all I need
  11. I don't run them continuously so I cannot say. Mine run for 15 minutes three times a day for the AWC and once an hour for up to 4 minutes on the ATO. I guess I will find out how long they will last running them like that. I got them from Amazon. The link is below. I have had the one I use for ATO running almost 2 months now without any issues. The tubing from the pumps to the tank goes into the attic and runs 35ft then down inside the wall to an outlet then to the tank. The drain pump pulls it that far then back up in the attic about 15ft then down a wall to the kitchen sink drain. It also has
  12. I decided to try a different dosing pump so I needed to build a stand for the one chosen. I used some scrap wood I had left from other projects. The stand is put together with wood glue. No screws were used except for mounting hardware for the tubing. The photos below are after it was glued together and painted. I have three pumps to start with. I have had one in use for almost two months. So I decided to get two more to try. They are Intllab doisng pumps. They run around $25 each. Below are a couple of photos of the pumps. The pump head can be mounted with the tubing pointing 4 different ways
  13. That is the fish that rules the tank. I had 3 to begin with. The first three fish introduced to the tank. That is the remaining one of the three. I would only get one unless you have a large tank.
  14. I have had very few issues lately. I started with it early on as a beta tester. There were some issues in the begining but most have been worked out. One thing I was asking for that never happened was a wireless connectivity with the modules instead of the buss cable. It looks like the Hydros system will have this. I will be looking at it closely.
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