madsalt Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 I have been thinking about redoing my sump and would like some input. Currently the sump is set up with three chambers, flowing from left to right. The first chamber is from the tank into filter socks. This chamber also has my media reactor pump and a big 'ol ball of chaeto. The second chamber has my skimmer and two heaters and the third chamber has my return. What I would like to do is turn it into a 4 chamber sump. I would like the return to be centralized so the flow back to the tank is even. I have a 180 with two overflows offset from the center. Right now one return flows right into the sump and the other moves across the entire back into the sump. I want to find a way to bring these closer together. For some reason one return pulls in way more water than the other (the tank is level). I would like to have a refugium or small coral grow out etc. I know things might be tight so I open to any ideas. Then again I might be off my rocker and what I have is just fine. Tank is 36 x 18 x 17 skimmer has a 12.4" x 8.7 foot print. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wryknow Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 I use a 3 chamber set up. 1st chamber is a 7" filter sock and the skimmer, 2nd chamber is the lit fuge, and the 3rd is the return. Both drain lines are routed to drain into the same filter sock (I use flexible tubing.) I use the bubble trap between the 1st and 2nd chamber to run bags of filter media (carbon, and GFO currently.) By main input would be that if you're going to run a macro algae refugium then you need to give it enough volume to make a difference. I would allow at least 2' of length for the refugium (3' would be better) for a 180 gallon display tank. If that's not realistic I would just skip the refugium all together and just keep the sump dark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvrEnuf Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 This is right up my alley (I think). I hope I have time this week to get back to the forum! Questions: 1. is this a dry tank? 2. How do you plan to do the tranfser? 3. what kind of flow is going through the sump? 200GPH? in a 40GB you're gonna get tight on flow with triple baffle 4 chamber...is double baffle okay? 4. are you set on the filter socks? 5. what size is the plumbing and does it have to be hard plumbed? 6. what is your thinking in running the skimmer not in the overflow chamber? I agree with Wryknow, I have a 40GB 3 chamber with no skimmer and 24" of fuge which only allows a double baffle to the returm chamber when 150 GPH+ flow is considered. (I don't have that return yet, but the sump is built for it and it's gonna be tight!!) Now, acrylic....I've done some cool stuff with it for a decent price, much easier to design smaller chambers. My main concern for your situation is offgass time. I typically wait 96 hours or more (temp) before getting silicone wet. If you're planning to change an existing and running sump, how are you going to take it off line for 3-5 days? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madsalt Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 I am not opposed to going acrylic and just redoing the sump all together or buying a new glass tank. I like the idea of keeping filter socks but it can be a one or two type setup heck even three maybe. I couldn't tell you exactly how many gallons per hour are actually moving through the sump. Double baffle is ok, the goal is just to keep the micro bubbles down. Right now I have one inch drains, that was going to be my next post, looking for a Durso/plumbing master to quite down my tank and increase the effectiveness of my drain. I like the idea of keeping the hard plumbing. My returns are braided hose though. Right now my skimmer is in the center chamber because it has large footprint. I am actually looking at smaller footprint so it can go elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvrEnuf Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 If it were me (and I wasn't super concerned with budget) I'd go custom acrylic. It isn't hard if you have the tools (you can borrow from me) and you can go as custom as you like. for size of aprox 40GB you're looking at <$350 even if you order cut colored pieces with mini chambers, toothed baffles, etc. on the other hand I did my 40GB 3 chamber for about $15. With acrylic you can do things like verticle baffles for the skimmer output in the 1st chamber even though the skimmer sits in the second. If you're going to run Macro in just one chamber I like the idea of black walls on either side, and black rear can be done as well. Idealy, you could increase the front to back deminsion with acrylic and split chamber one into 1a and 1b with flow going from back to front. This would allow for socks in the rear, skimmer up front, and a quad baffle going to the 2nd chamber (center) which could then be pretty large left to right; and you should only need a double baffle before return. For greater control of sound, a longer convo may be needed. You could go with a Herbie since you have dual overflow, or you could manifold one overflow "Y'ing" to a double ball valve giving greater adjustabiliyt control to match your return pump flow. Since you have a concern for micro bubbles I suggest the later. I would run a herbie if I had dual overflow because of my turf scrubber, but with my solo I have three ball valves to adjust and can dial it in pretty tight. I prefer hard plumbed overflow and soft return as you have unless the return pump is external. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madsalt Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 You had me at "about $15" If I went custom, I would really like to lengthen the sump to allow for more room. I wouldn't to go too much because I still need to have room some other equipment. How difficult would it be to buy the pieces and build one? I like the idea of having my two overflows. I would think by only having one of my overflows working, the flow of the tank would force everything to one end with possible detritus build up, I could be completely wrong here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvrEnuf Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 It's really easy to weld acrylic. If you're going to buy all pre-cut pieces you should CAD it out first and Austin plastics can just take that and make the cuts. You'll need to watch a couple you tube vids like : or just search "weld acrylic" I've built all kinds of tanks/ sumps/ gadgets. Try a viewing box for your first project, you can get a sheet at HD for about $50 and make a few things like a HOB tube holder for ATO or doser...you get the idea. For sumps, the only hard part is the measureing and cutting. After that remember to do your baffles from center out or you won't be able to reach the center baffle! You said you had two overflows offset from center...so this is one chamber with two 1 1/4" bulkheads (1" PVC)? If this is correct, the Herbie system would have no different effect on your display, but would lower the water level on the inside of the overflow chamber just a bit. One of the two pipes (the upper) then becoms a back-up. This forces more water through the lower pipe and reduces overall oxygen and therfor noise and micro bubbles. The downside is that the overflow chamber itself then produces a slight noise so IMO like everything else in this hobby, it's just a trade off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.