Jason & Amber Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Humidity is through the roof, and come winter we are wiping at least a gallon of water off windows in a week. So wondering if anyone uses them if so what should we look for in them? Where did you get yours? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 When I had my 175g in my previous house I ran one that pulled about 5 gallons per day...that's what the bucket holds and I was emptying it at least ever 24 hrs. I'd noticed a lot of condensation / mold around most of the windows. I got this one and it took care of the problem. I'm not using it any longer since I downsized and moved. I'd be willing to sell it for $100. I used it for about a year. http://www.lowes.com/pd_416566-39269-GL-DEH-45F-2_0__?productId=4595897&Ntt=dehumidifiers&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Ddehumidifiers&facetInfo= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvrEnuf Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 I am a certified water retoration expert, I can tell yoiu pretty much everything one would ever want to know about DH's. The one Jimbo posted and offered to seel is a decent little unit. Uhaul sometimes has an old Dri-eaz 80 they will sometimes let go of for about $250, this handles about twice the LPD (liters) as the one Jimbo linked. From there we move into the low grain refrigerant model and they can cost more thsn s nice size tank. You can also try Atex whole sale supply near Kramer and Lamar...they rent and sell DH's and a lot of times will sell a previously used unit. Do you happen to know how much top off you use in a 24 hr period? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Mitch Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 When pmrogers presented @ C4, he talked about the need for dehumidification. It's made me real concerned about what damage i'm doing to my house. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timfish Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 This is not the most effeceint way to do this but running a window ac unit along with the heat in the winter will pull out humidity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+KimP Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 When pmrogers presented @ C4, he talked about the need for dehumidification. It's made me real concerned about what damage i'm doing to my house. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Same here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo59 Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 I'm interested in hearing more about this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason & Amber Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 We'll I hit up jimbo. My experience we have a 180 and 120 in a room with two windows and would wipe them down daily. Last month when it warmed up we had mold along the edges of the windows so it bleached, scrubbed, rubbing alcohol, scrubbed by that time paint had started coming off (cheap flat paint came when built). Also noticed sheet rock was damp so used blow drier and fans to dry out sheet rock slap some puddly on and we painted with a gloss paint. Hope it will be more durable if we get in this situation again. But now we are starting to come home from work at 6 and when you walk in you can just feel how sticky and humid it is. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvrEnuf Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 I don't have time at the moment to write a dissertation on this so let me see how brief I can be: As Timfish points out there are many ways to control humidity. But since the discussion here seems to be about structural damage lets get a few facts straight. There are few things on this planet which read 000 on a moisture meter; Drywall is BONE dry @ aprox 10%. Wood at 12%. Drywall tends to grow mold at anything over 30% moisture content for more than 72 hours. (well, the bad molds anyway). So, the real question is how much water must be removed on a regular basis to keep drywall in the area <25% moisture content. But before we answer that lets look at some variables that would affect the calculation. 1. Temperature variance: most of the time this happens around windows. Consider upgrading the window or simply insulating it; but more importantly know that warm air hold more moisture than cold air. So, in the winter you may consider simply closing the heater vent in that room. 2. Air flow: Often times re0directing the airflow will allow the air handler itself to deal with the added moisture. A second or additional vent may be another option. 3. containment: consider a way to capture or contain moisture within the systems. Now, what nobody tells you about mold growth: Mold grows best when it goes through moisture cycles. So, when considering a DH consider how often you can drain it. Just like aquariums being consistent is VERY important. Also, you don't just turn a DH on and it goes to work...it can take HOURS to reach optimal performance. So, to me, hard lined is the only way to go. You can pick up a hydrothermometer and GPP calculater for around 100$ from Atex Whole sale...it's $$ well spent if you're going to invest in a DH... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo59 Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Good info nvrenuf. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.