mFrame

My fighting conch is one defintiely one of my favorite critters. I've been contemplating getting a second...

Awesome meeting, thanks again to our wonderful hosts!

I recently played in a hold-em tournament with an entry fee of $10. It was my first time, and a lot of fun.

However, it seems like it would be a little hard to play without re-buys. Otherwise if you get knocked out early you are just done for the night. At the tournament I played, they had a cash game for the people who were out of the tournament.

That's exactly how I run mine, plus having a Wii or Xbox 360 in the background helps.

Those PJs are incredibly docile... almost to the point of annoyance!

vwmike-- what are the viewable area dimensions of your tank? It's wide-- I like.

Tank dimensions are: 48.5x18.5x25. Since I have the a left rear corner overflow, the pictures show the overflow from the "back" which causes me to lose about 6-8" of viewable area on that side. I put black contact paper over it to hide the pipes but left it open on the side so I can see clogs, etc.

We originally had some different ideas for placement of the tank and by the time I finally decided to do it as a peninsula we were committed. Given the choice again I might choose a true peninsula tank with end overflow, but I do like a lot of options that the corner overflow provides.

I'd be in as well though I prefer hold-em tournaments with a fixed entry, no re-buys. Maybe we can alternate game types on different nights?

Finally getting around to show my setup. Hopefully I'll get some better FTS shots after Dave's photo tutorial at the meeting today:

I use the white felt. I keep a 5g bucket about half full with water in the garage to store used socks in. I bought about 12 of them once for around $5 apiece here at ARC. I run them for about 4 days, remove and place in the bucket. By keeping them wet they tend not to smell or get funky. About once a month I toss them in the washing machine with no soap and no bleach, just hot water. The real trick is to have a lot of them on hand. I can see what a PITA it could be if you only had one.

Ditto, I do the same. No soap or bleach seem necessary, my felt ones come out white as new.

After reading this by Fenner, I'm thinking it's not pop-eye. According to him swelling in one eye is normally from eye trauma. Agree?

Pop-eye FAQ

Got home tonight to find my female Clarkii clownfish with one very large bulging eye. None of the other fish in my tank show anything similar.

This clown is the most aggressive fish in the tank and chases everyone away from her bubbletip anemone. About a month ago she even gouged my male Clarkii.

Is this something that needs to be treated or should I just wait and see? It appears similar to fish I've seen with pop-eye, but I have no reason to suspect a bacterial infection. What do you think?

Each of my flame hawks have made it. Time for the grating...

Anyone interested in throwing together a quick order? I need a PH Probe. I'd like to have it by mid-next week at latest.

my AC3 PH probe keeps reading wonky even after recalibration so I'm thinking I need to replace it.

So, first, anyone have a great deal on an AC3 PH Probe?

Otherwise, any recommendations on best place/price to get one?

Garlic supplements at the grocery store are cheap, my bottle of minced garlic (on the spice aisle) was about $2. At pet stores the extract is much more. I put a few granules of the minced stuff in the container when I'm thawing my food.

Health food stores carry the extract, but from what I've read some people say that only stuff you make yourself fresh is effective. I know that my fish love it...

Well, my polyps did greatly outnumber the sponge in volume and were always open. It's just so hard to tell when that red/orange sponge is growing.

I have a whitish/gray stringy sponge that grows like made in my tank. I put the polyps on it but the never attached. You could try gluing it, but everything i read about sponges (and white lightning in particular) says to never expose it to air. that makes gluing very difficult.

If I had it to do again, I would contact Mama about some of those gorgeous red and orange sponges she had for sale previously. I think if you can find a nice healthy large one, especially one with lots of branches/nooks/crannies, that you could drape the polyps over and around it like christmas lights. I think after a bit of time the polyps will attach just like any other zoo's do. This would do a few things: 1)give you a nice large healthy base sponge 2) provide the color contrast that makes the white lightning so attractive in the first place, 3) give me hope on being able to try it again. It was one of my favorite pieces.

Sorry to hear she's getting out.

My spider sponge is dying after about 4 months. The zoanthids are happy and open at least every other day, I feed them whenever I notice them open. It is actually the sponge that is dying, slowly fading away. I have several other sponges that are doing fine but for some reason not this one. Medium flow, medium lighting...can your tank water be to clean for a sponge? I did read somewhere that dt's isn't good for sponges, I think that it was wetwebmedia.com.

Exactly what happened to mine. I did notice that I did fine until I stopped my regular dosing of reef roids and started just using phyto. That could have been it.

The zoas lasted long after the sponge. I even transplanted them onto some other sponge on my LR, they made it about 2 months after that. You might try the reef roids.

Mine made it and did well for about 3 months, it was only once i started having cyano issues and changed the way i was feeding and doing extended periods of dark that it became unhappy. I would by no means expect that you wouldn't be able to keep it alive.

I would warn however, that in a seahorse tank they horses will hang onto it, which will annoy it to no end. This can create bare spots on the sponge and allow algae growth which will eventually kill it. Mama ended up moving hers to a different tank specifically for that reason.

Might was always happiest in very low light, medium flow. You'll want to make sure that you feed phyto. In my case the sponge died out from under the polyps. Once it was gone the polyps didn't stand a chance.

Please do, i'm interested in a non-iphone tutorial.

PM returned.

Light has been sold, others still avail.

Bump

Still have the tank/stand, light, and wavemaker. Here are the prices

tank and metal stand $50

Oceanpulse wavemaker duo $30

sundial light $130

$200 for all.

I have a 29g with stand, emperor filter, and light that worked perfectly for my soft corals and inverts. I'd be happy to sell it as a system. Check my for sale post in the forum.

Couldn't have said it better myself. Just make sure you do something to protect the top of it. If a large piece of food or snail makes it into the holes you could have an overflow problem.

They cost $30 each at barrel city in buda, so $20 is still a good price.

I've got a full set of T5 waterproof endcaps, I had planned on adding bulbs to my system but changed my mind. Let me know if you're interested