Enigma13

A couple of important factors I did not see listed in your comparison of the tanks: How much live rock is in each? What is the sand bed setup? What types of fish (even with equal numbers some fish produce more waste then others)?

I think any nitrates over 25ppm is probably getting dangerous in a reef tank with stony corals. I would add some chaeto in your sump (yes, I still have some for you), skim very aggressively, and change about 50% of your water every other day for a week and then see where you are with the nitrates. I might have some more comments and suggestions depending on your answers to the above questions. Good luck.

One thing that I like about my setup is that I have a cap (mostly open top) as opposed to a full canopy. It works aesthetically to hide my light setup and it heightens the tank so that fish cannot jump out, but having the open top helps keep the tank temp down and makes for easier feeding. Also since is made for thin acrylic it is light enough to easily remove on my own even though it is seven feet off the ground.

One thing I would recommend for the stand is to drill two circular holes for exhaust fans in the back and install the fans prior to setting up the tank. The holes existed on my tank, but the fans were not installed prior to tank setup. Trying to install those fans once the clearance between the stand and the wall was minimal was challenging to say the least. The fans are great for temperature control and relatively low cost. Another tip if you are going to make a DIY stand is to really think about height both in terms of aesthetics (the viewing level of the tank) and the equipment you want to put in there. Consider the height of skimmers, and all other equipment that you will need and how it will fit in your space. I am currently planning a most DIY project for a FOWLR and these are considerations that are shaping my stands plans.

Best of luck.

PM sent.

I have to thin out the Chaeto in my fuge this week, so if anybody wants any let me know and it is yours free. Otherwise I will just trash it.

I could definitely get you a frag of anthelia. I have a colony that needs some thinning.

I doubt that I am ending up higher than 1.030. I try to stay around 1.025 and if anything sometimes I end up a little lower (~1.023).

I have also been using the SeaChem ReefSalt due to my love for SeaChem supplements (for which Brian is responsible ). I have had exactly the same experience as Brian. My reservoir always has a residue on the bottom and I have had a much harder time keeping my alk up than when Brian was bringing my water (using Oceanic I think).

That said, I was having some problems with cyano before the SeaChem reef salt and the cyano has now totally gone away. That may also be the result of the tank aging so I don't want to give too much credit to the salt. Growth and health of my corals has been satisfactory if not excellent with the SeaChem.

I just finished up a bucket and will be getting more salt this weekend. SeaChem's page says that they have already reformulated the salt (new formula should just be hitting stores, came out about a month ago) so I am thinking about giving it a whirl again. It wasn't bad, and I don't feel like switching after just one bucket. If the new formula does not correct any of the problems that existed with the old I probably will not buy again. Don't know whether I will go back to Oceanic or to Tropic Marin.

The wrasse has been rescued via the remove the durso and flush him down to the sump method. Thanks.

My solar wrasse has jumped into the one of overflow boxes on my 144. With the depth (30") and width (29") of the tank, location of the overflows (back), and the plumbing within them (little guy is hiding among the drain and return piping) I have almost lost hope netting him out.

Does anybody have any suggestions or can offer any advice on how to get him back to freedom? He seems very healthy still and is eating if I drop some food into the overflow so I think he will be fine if I can just get him out. Please help if you can.

Jason

Too bad it all has to be SE. I need to order so DE HQI in the near future.

Are we stilling moving forward with the TOTQ or TOTM? Let me know if I can help in any way.

Man, that was some insanely bad luck for the wrasse, but one of the more interesting pictures and threads I have seen in a while. Sorry, that the wrasse didn't make it, but I'm sure you are glad that the clam is going to pull through. I believe that you have the first clam I have ever seen that needs an "aggressive" label.

Welcome to ARC. Do you know what your plans for your new setup are yet? SPS, LPS, softies, etc.? One of my favorite thing to do on these boards is to read the progression of set up and stocking that other people take their tanks through. Keep us updated.

pH and alkalinity- twice a week (test prior to adding Reef Buffer and/or Reef Builder to determine dosage).

Calcium- once a week (I add Reef Complete twice a week and just want to make sure things are staying on track).

Nitrates- about every other week (just to see where they are at and determine if I need to do a larger than normal water change next time up. I usually change about 10% per week).

Iodine-every other week (dose Reef Iodide 3 times a week. Follow the mantra of "if you are dosing you need to be testing").

Phosphate and Silicate-once a month (Just to see if I have to run some SeaGel for a while).

I don't test for ammonia and nitrite with any regularity, unless I have added significant bioload. Short of something dying, addition of bioload, tank should be mature enough now to get things through the first two stages of the nitrogen cycle (setup is 9 months old). I see my temp several times a day on the digital chiller controller (set on 78 w/ 2 degree differential).

My system is a 144 gallon mixed reef, with 40 gallon sump, Euroreef 6-2+ skimmer, refugium, and about 175 # LR.

I also would be happy to help with any writing, but I cannot (nor would you want me to) volunteer for the photography skills. Just let me know if I can help in any way. I think that TOTM is a fun idea, basically because everybody gets to see some of the best tanks in the club.

I used a Euroreef as well and have no complaints. As mentioned above they are easy to use/adjust and are plug and play for setup. They are a little more pricey, but you get what you pay for. MarineDepot.com has pretty good prices on them and if you need one more quickly I know that Aquatek here in town keeps certain sizes in stock. Others may too, I just don't know.

What is your calcium at? They tend to run counter to each other, so if you dose calcium your kH should come down. I would think that with a kH of 18-20 your calcium has been decimated anyway. You will probably see a cloudiness if you dose calcium because the calcium will cause a precipitation. I have never had my kH get that far off so I cannot guarantee that the normal chemistry will work, but I would assume so. As has been said already though, try to take it slow.

I have a couple things that are starting to get a little overgrown in my tank. On the Xenia I am mainly looking for someone to give me a piece of LR of similar size with nice coralline growth. Alternatively I will take the cash listed so that I can go buy such a rock. Could not get the pictures to load in this thread, but I will be happy to send some to anybody interested. Alternatively, I have also listed this stuff on the MAAST website so you can check the pics out there.

X-tra large colony of Xenia (Back half of what is in picture, attached to separate rock than front half)- piece of LR as mentioned above or $25.

Large colony GSP (the large mound in the middle) (pending)- $25

Yellow Tonga Leather (approx. 2-3") (to left of GSP, not the big one above )- $25