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Derry

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Posts posted by Derry

  1. I've got a couple of pink birdsnest frags available. The color is even stronger than the pictures show, with a hot pink body and purple/magenta polyps. It's also fast-growing when it's happy - I got a 2" frag in a trade with muddybluewater in Oct of '09, and the main colony is almost 10" across now. The mini colony is a collection of branches that I fragged off a couple of months ago when the mother colony got a small infection and started receeding. The branches have all healed and grown together to form a mass roughly 3" x 4". The circled portion of the mother colony needs to be cut off so I can relocate the main colony. It's about 5" long and probably 3" across. Asking $20 each, or trade.

    I also have a couple of little 1/2" - 3/4" crumbs on the sandbed that don't really even count as frags yet. I'll give those to anyone who's willing to be patient, although trades would be welcome.

    post-827-0-65349300-1294872703_thumb.jpg

    post-827-0-05753800-1294872714_thumb.jpg

  2. A buddy of mine was cleaning out his closet, found this and thought I might be able to use it. Unfortunately, it's freshwater use only due to metal parts, so I have no use for it. The box is still unopened in the plastic wrap, but it appears to be an older model that's no longer in Beckett's product line. Physically, it looks like a smaller version of their G210AG. Asking $10.

  3. I personally like the look of halimeda. It's also MUCH easier to remove than caulerpa if you get tired of it or it starts to overgrow something. Just be aware that it also pulls calcium from the water, so you might have to work harder to keep your calcium levels up if you have corals, too.

  4. I bought one of RCA's surplus tanks a couple of weeks ago that they had for sale as a result of their remodel, then lucked into a steal of a 110-gal yesterday. As a result, I no longer need the 75-gal. I'm selling an undrilled Marineland tank that has a painted blue back, and I'm asking $40, which is even less than I paid for it.

  5. I wouldn't lose too much sleep over it yet. Triggers are fairly bullet-proof as reef fish go, and my blue jaw would get detritus stuck in his slime coat from time to time that would always freak me out when I saw it. Keep an eye on it, and if it spreads, you can start looking seriously toward medications. Even if it IS ich (and I'm not convinced at this point), as long as he's eating well, he should be able to fight it off on his own.

    My only suggestion would be to consider upping the QT to 20 or 30 gals if possible in the future - ten's a little small for such an active swimmer. However, moving him now might create more stress than it's worth.

    Good luck!

  6. The owner's manual on my Aqualifter doesn't say anything about limiting the flow from one side or the other, so I'll try moving the needle valve to the incoming side. My KH isn't staying put because the effluent rate from the reactor keeps changing, but it doesn't sound like my solenoid is turning on and off very often. I'll dial the bubble count back once I stabilize my effluent rate.

  7. Ok, time for an update on this. I dialed the outgoing pressure on the CO2 tank down to about 10psi and set the bubble rate at about 2/sec. The pH controller turns the solenoid on and off as needed. I also had a bad connection between the controller and the power outlet which wasn't helping matters. Once I reseated the wiring and dialed down the CO2 pressure, that part of the equation seems to be working fine now. Thanks to everyone for their advice.

    The only remaining problem is that, even after installing the $40 needle valve, I'm still not getting a consistent effluent rate. The drip slows over the course of a couple of days to the point where it stops altogether. I keep having to open the valve up to reestablish the drip, which isn't exactly "set and forget." Any ideas as to why the valve won't give me a consistent output?

    Thanks again, everyone!

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