Derry

You looking for anything in particular?

Looking for anything in particular? Are trades an option?

Anybody have two or three duncans that they're interested in selling or trading? I have several SPS and zoas that I could include as part of a trade. Thanks!

I've got a 2" toadstool frag you can have, as well as some of the dragon's breath zoas I bought from you ages ago if you need a reboot on those, too. Just let me know.

Have you tried talking to your veterinarian?

I picked up an efflo from addboy awhile back, and it's got new growth, but not as much as I'd hoped for. Right now, I've got it under moderate to strong light in medium to lower flow. Should I leave it as-is? Would it be better suited somewhere else? Or is it just a really slow grower, and I simply need to be patient?

The Pacific Northwest Tree Octopus needs our help!

Out of the 75 or so that I pulled away from the main colony, maybe a dozen are trying to mount a comeback. The rest are melting away.

Any luck yet, Hydro?

If the Fiji Live Rock is still available, I'd like to buy it. PM sent.

Yep, the mussel will likely die, so I wouldn't leave it in there too long if uneaten.

No personal experience, but I've read that bloodworms and mussels with the shell cracked open will often entice a copperband to feed. Worth a shot?

The trick to keeping a skimmer in the sump is maintaining a consistent water level for the skimmer to run in. If you can manage the water level in the skimmer chamber, I'd lean toward an in-sump model for the simple reason of flood control. If your internal skimmer overflows in the sump, big deal. If your external skimmer overflows on your living room floor,...

Yep, the funk did come off, and I rinsed them off well with RO water after the dip. A few have opened back up, but I'm just trying to leave them alone and let them recover at this point.

As a side note, bristle worms practically melt in the presence of hydrogen peroxide.

Thanks, Stacy! I'll PM you to coordinate getting the zoas from you.

Hey, guys! I've found myself in a scheduling pickle and won't be able to make the RCA pickup on Wed. Is there someone up north who's getting something from Hydro that can pick up my kedd's reds for me on Wed, then let me swing by their place on Thurs?

Nice link, Aaarrrggg. I performed a hydrogen peroxide dip per Hydro's recommendation a few days ago, and the affected zoas look like they might (?) be recovering a little. I will DEFINITELY keep Furan-2 in the mental rolodex for any future problems, though - looks very promising.

Can I get 15 kedd's reds?

I'm planning out a 110-gal predator tank, and I'm trying to think through how to light the thing. I'm already running a reef tank that scratches my SPS itch, so any corals that go in the predator tank will be zoas/shrooms/softies just to add some color. Add to the equation the future tenants, which will include a lionfish and moray who shouldn't be kept under overly-bright lighting, and I'll be going with a T5 rig of some kind. However, I'm torn between a 48" 6x54W or a 72" 4x80W. I'm worried about the ends of the tank being too dim if I go with the 48". On the other hand, the idea of working with a light bulb that long and thin makes me a little nervous about the 72". Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I religiously dip all of my new corals before putting them in the tank, but I've got some zoas that are acting weird, and I don't know what to do about them. It started with some cats' eye zoas. After a few polyps had melted away, I dipped them in a strong Lugol's bath for about 10 minutes, but it didn't help - the rest of the colony (about a dozen or so) just wasted away. Now my Green Bay Packers are having the same problem. I've attached a couple of photos that show what's going on, and they look just like what Borneman describes as zoa condition 1 in Aquarium Corals. Anybody have any idea 1) what's going on, and 2) how to fix it?

How much trouble are you willing to go to? I've hung both the 48" combo rig on my DT and a 24" PC fixture over my sump by removing the splash screen, bulbs and reflector, then drilling holes at either end of the light's top in order to insert small eye bolts. The only real trick is finding the balance point of the fixture, but your sundial should have a center line you can work with. Takes less than an hour an is admittedly tedious disassembling and rebuilding the light, but it works great and is rock-solid.

I think "amusingly tolerant" would best describe my wife's relationship with my tank. It's actually her favorite room to read or study in b/c it's pretty to look at and makes soothing water noises. She's generally interested in how all of the critters are doing, she gets excited for me when I get excited about something that's going particularly well, she's sad for me when someone goes carpet surfing, and she patiently glazes over when I start rattling off Latin names for things. I've asked repeatedly over the years what she'd like to see in the tank, and she honestly doesn't care. She just wants it to look nice. Exactly what I choose to put in the tank to achieve that goal doesn't matter very much to her. She's even letting me set up a 110-gal predator tank and is graciously living with a six-foot aquarium sitting on the floor of the fish room while I build the tank stand.

There are, however, two things that will make her upset about the tank. As many have mentioned already, spending too much time on the tank for too many days in a row will get her grump on. The other is aesthetics - if I leave water change equipment lying all over the room, or if you can't see the fish for all of the algae growing on the front glass, then she wishes that I would find a different hobby.

Sold.

Bump

I'm curious to get people's opinion on the minimum tank size needed to keep a naso tang fairly happy. I know the answer the fish books give. However, I want to hear from those of you who've kept a full-grown naso for a couple few years. How big is just getting by, and how big is reasonably comfortable?