medi

This looks like it's going to be an awesome setup! Makes me miss mine. The only suggestion I would make is maybe consider two MP40's instead of the MP10's. I had a very similar tank, rimless 36x37x18, and had major difficulties getting the kind of flow I was happy with. I started out with a snapper return, and one single MP40. I found I had a lot of dead spots so I sold off the one MP40 only to change to three korallia 3s just so I could get rid of the dead spots. I still wasn't happy because there wasn't enough flow to keep my SPS happy. So then I changed to a nano wavebox and the korallias. Still didn't get enough flow. Then I changed to two waveboxes, and I was almost happy, but now I had dead spots, and still wasn't very much flow. I ended up with two MP40's and was thrilled. I didn't have a single dead spot, and the flow was awesome. My SPS couldn't have been happier. I know this is a long explanation to my suggestion. I just want you to see that I have tried almost every combination, and was only able to obtain good results with the two MP40's.

Sold

lol...that's part of the problem. I bought her a "road" bike to ride with me, but all she is willing to do is ride around the neighborhood. Thus the reason for the child's seat.

I have a 2004 54 cm TREK 2100 for sale. I bought this for my wife, but she has never taken to riding. This bike has had a collective total of no more than 50 miles! Actually the odometer which I added as soon as I bought the bike shows 21.4 miles to be exact. It is basically a brand new bike at a way discounted price. The only thing wrong with the bike is a blemish on each upper rear carbon stay. I had mounted a baby seat on the back and it blemished the finish. This in no way affects the function. Also, I just got it back from the shop with a fresh tune up. It has been stored inside it's entire life, and I'm pretty sure it hasn't even ever gotten wet! Here are some of the specs:

Carbon rear triangle

Carbon fork

Race lite carbon seat post

Bontrager select race lite wheel set

Bontrager race lite front stem

Cane creek headset

Shimano Ultegra rear derailer

Shimano 105 flight deck

Cateye Mity 8 computer

Bontrager race lite bar

MSRP $1469.99

Asking $700 OBO

SOLD

PM'd

Almost new Hanna Phosphate checker. I have done probably 5 or 6 tests with it and it works great.

$35

Good luck! I had cyano as long as I ran biopellets. I tried everything to get rid of it with no success. e.g. chemiclean, bacteria dosing, large water changes, increased flow, three days of darness. etc. and none of it worked. That is actually the reason I took my biopellets off line. After a couple of weeks with no bio pellets the cyano went away. My water tests were always better than perfect, but I never could get rid of the cyano with the biopellets.

Part out prices listed

This system really takes quite a bit of research to really learn about it, but I found this article that describes basically what the system is for.

Here you go:

Let’s start off with what does the ZeoVit system do. Zeovit is a system that incorporates bacterial sources to help rid a system of excess nutrients. Some have labeled this as one of this first well publicized ultra low nutrient system or ULNS. The idea is to mimic natural seawater (NSW) parameters by reducing the levels of Nitrate and Phosphate without lowering other essential parameters such as Calcium and Magnesium.

The best way that I understand this is a two step process; 1) the system removes excess nutrients such as nitrate and phosphate through bacteria sources and skimming. 2) Once ULNS has been achieved, you may 'tweak' coral colors through additional Zeovit additives.

Well isn’t that what you are suppose to accomplish in a reef system? Can I do that with a nice high-end skimmer and frequent water changes? Well yes, but there are some nice side benefits to the zeovit system that we will talk about later.

Many think by reading nitrate and phosphate at ‘undetectable’ on their trident test kit they are running an ULNS, however, very few test kits can measure nitrate and phosphate at those low levels. Typically, zeovit users use a photometer such as the Hana meter to test for phosphate. The Hana meter digitally reads down to .001. In Zeovit, there are visual identifiers that signify you are past one step and ready to move to the next. Simply adding a food source such as amino acids without running your system through step one will result in just adding more nutrients to your system and the result might not be that good.

One note; Zeovit is not a ‘cookie-cutter’ system, since every system is different and has different needs, the dosage and products of zeovit will vary from one tank to another. Although Zeovit is a very precision system you will get your best results by watching your corals and letting them tell you what is needed. Zeovit uses some basic introductory guidelines to get you started.

The Basic Four

The basic four is the absolute minimum you will need to incorporate (purchase) for the zeovit system. The other Zeovit products are 'as needed' additives and suppliment to help improve or tweak your system. In addition to the basic four, you will need some type of Zeovit reactor and use Carbon 24/7 every 30 days.

Zeolites

Think of these as porous man made rocks that absorb something, specifically reef toxins (I would say nitrate and phosphate but nobody knows for sure if these actually remove them or help bind them so your skimmer can easily remove them). Zeovit uses a mixture of different zeolites that have been found to best reduce toxins in a saltwater system. Exactly how they work has been much debated; from a theory of bacterial colonizing to locking-up or removing ammonia, to a transformation process of nutrients to a different ion. Sorry, I have no idea of how it works just that it does.

The zeolites are stored in a reactor, which looks a lot like a Calcium reactor without all the extra do-dads on it. It is a single chamber with a second chamber inside the first with a handle that protrudes out of the top. The Zeolites are placed in the second chamber and once a day the second chamber is ‘pumped’ to clean the zeolites of mulm (algae build up). This mulm is said to actually feed corals.

Zeolites are changed out at approximately every six to eight weeks (I have never had good results with zeolites lasting past eight weeks). I assume the exchange rate is based on the amount of nutrients you have in your system much like activated carbon.

One thing I know for sure, running a zeovit system without zeolites will not work to its full capacity and using a different ‘ebay’ zeolite will not work. I can absolutely tell when my zeolites are expelled and no longer fit for use, my corals will look faded.

Zeobak

This is a bacteria source that is used to colonize the zeolites, live rock and/or sand beds which help reduce nutrients. The biggest difference in my option about other carbon sourced systems such as a vodka or vodka/sugar/vinegar (VSV) is that they do not incorporate a bacteria source. It has been theorized that running a system that is totally reliant on ones own tank to produce the necessary bacteria can result in one bacteria completing against another bacteria. This competition can result in a mono-culture of bacteria which does not remove nutrients at all.

Zeobak is dosed every day initially, after colonies have established in your system this is drastically reduced to once or twice weekly.

Zeofood

This is a food source for your corals and bacteria, since you are basically starving your corals of excess nutrients you need to put something back in for your corals to feed on. Since zeovit has introduced so many other food sources such as amino acids and Xtra, I rarely use this product any more.

Initially dosed at approximately five drops per 200 net gallons.

ZeoStart

This is the carbon source; it smells like an Easter egg coloring kit (vinegar). I am sure it is some mixture of vinegar, sugar and/or something else but not sure exactly what. Initially, this was the carbon source I used in conjunction with Prodibio BioDigest and it worked very well.

ZeoStart helps in the reproduction of nitrifying bacteria which basically ‘eats’ phosphate and nitrate. Zeostart works in conjunction with zeobak (the food for the bacteria) and zeobak works in conjunction with the zeolites.

Zeostart is dosed at approximately 1ml per 200 net gallons.

Additional Parameters

Additionally, zeovit incorporates GAC carbon that is run 24 hours for 30 days and then exchanged. This can be run passively in a bag or through a reactor. Zeovit does have their own brand and I have used it with great results. I have also used hydro-carbon and Seachem matrix with good results. You do want to watch out for aggressive carbons such as ROX. For me ROX was just too much for my system and reduced my growth in some corals.

It is also assumed in the Zeovit method that you are using strong lighting and a good protein skimmer that is skimming DRY. I have actually had very good result in using a basic skimmer such as an ASM G3 on my system skimming dry. I really believe you want a good skimmer but not one that is too oversize for the system that is going to pull out all your additives that you are putting in, this is the reason as to NOT skim wet.

Refugiums, phosban reactors, phosphate removers, denitrification reactors, algae/turf scrubbers, ozone and UV filters are not needed and should be removed before you start the zeovit setup.

Finally, in order to effectively use zeovit you need to run your system as close to natural seawater levels as possible. This mean an alkalinity of 6.5-7.5 dKh, Calcium 410-430 mg, Magnesium 1250-1300 mg, Salinity 33-35 ppt and Potassium (K+) 380-400 mg. Therefore the salt you choose is very important, you want something with a low alkalinity, high potassium and good Calcium levels.

ZeoVit supplements

Zeovit goes onto add supplements that target certain aspects for coloring, growing and improving your zeovit system. When you first setup a zeovit system, stick with the basic four until you achieve ULNS status which can take anywhere from three months to a year. It took me a good six months even after using the prodibio system.

The zeovit supplements are what I consider ‘tweaking’ supplements. They are specifically used to tweak color, growth, recovery time, and aid in problematic issues. My advice is to use only one supplement at a time and measure the results. If you add too many supplements at once you won’t know what one is doing from the other.

Below is what I recommend in the order I recommend them. I will give a basic description of each, if I use the supplement and the result I have seen.

Coral Foods

AAHC (Amino Acids)

AAHC was the first supplement I started with. Right away I noticed a ‘fuller’ coral with polyp extension. Typically most of my polyps would extend at night time but since I started using the AAHC I was getting much better expansion during the day.

If you are still adding zeofood I recommend you half does AAHC, if you over dose you will most definitely get brown algae and sometimes cyano.

I dose 3 drops daily on a 200 net gallon system about one hour before my light kick off for the night.

Coral Vital (CV)

I really liked coral vital in conjuction with AAHC. AAHC seem to help give good polyp extension while CV help with coloring. Using CV a lot of my staghorn corals developed full color instead of just tip color. I also noticed an increased growth rate. I usually mix CV up with whatever I am feeding that day and dose all at once.

I dose 5 drops per 200 net gallons.

Color Enhancers

K-Balance

There are a lot of theories about potassium in a reef system. Some say it is not needed, some zeoheads say the process of bacteria exchange through the zeolites and skimming removes too much potassium that needs to be added later.

I use K-Balance only as needed. There is a test kit but it is very difficult to read. I use my Montipora caps as identifiers. When they start to get this washed out grey tone to them I add about 2 ml of K-balance every other day until they look bright again.

It is also said that an overdose of potassium can result in Acropora tips being burnt. I have seen picture of this but never experienced this myself.

Potassium Iodide (PIF and Job Complex)

Potassium iodide really helps the color of blue and purples in your system. I usually alternated between PIF and Job Complex because each contains a little something different.

I also dose based on what I see. If my blues are faded I will dose 3 drops of PIF one day and 3 drops of Job Complex the next until my blues are back. It doesn’t take much and usually end up dosing each about twice a week.

Also I watch my yellow corals. Signs of adding too much include yellow corals turning green, if this happens, stop (unless you like the green color).

Iron

This boosts green and some red coloring in corals. Use very sparingly, over dosage can cause major algae issues.

I dose 3 drops once a week.

Xtra

Xtra has become one of my favorite additives for two reasons. Not only does the dosing of Xtra increase polyp extension, it adds a level and depth to corals. It is very difficult to explain, but if you look very closely at a coral you see an underlying almost phosphorus tint to the coral that glows, it almost looks like the skeleton of the coral glowing.

The second reason is that Xtra at a double dosage aids in the recovery of coral fragging and when adding new corals. It was suggested to me when I moved from my 75 gallon tank to my 120 gallon tank to double dose Xtra for two weeks. I did, and I did not lose a single coral. I have also noticed that on a fragged coral, the tissue is replace over the cut in a much shorter amount of time.

I am not sure to what to label Xtra as, maybe a food or a color enhancer. By dosing Xtra, I dose my AAHC a lot less (almost half dose) and I eliminate all zeofood dosing. Also, since using Xtra, I no longer use ZeoSpur.

Currently I am dosing 1 to 2 ml every other day opposite sponge power.

Sponge Power

Sponge power is really a mixed bag, it is basically used to feed sponges which in turn process vast amounts of water acting as a natural filter cleaning and polishing the water. However, it does also increase the growth of aptasia and other glass anemones.

It is also said to increase the colorization of purple, I have yet to really see this.

I currently dose 5 drop every other day opposite Xtra.

Problem Solvers

I am labeling these as problem solvers since they are generally used to solve some issue or used as maintenance additive to cleanup something.

Coral Snow

Coral Snow is generally used to reduce yellow in your tank that carbon doesn’t absorb. CS has a nice side-effect; it has been report to help remove cyano bacteria (algae) from a system. Since I have never had cyano I can not really comment.

I primarily use CS when I do water changes to help clear or neutralize acid compounds.

I dose 2 ml into my water change bucket once or every two weeks.

ZeoZym

This is a very new product that I though I would give a try. It is said to help with cyano and help clean sludge from sand beds and live rock. Right now I have only dosed a couple of times, once by itself and once with zeobak. I have experienced increased sludge in the skimmer, a darker nastier skim mate. As far as additional coral coloring, I have yet to see anything but it is still early.

There are a couple other products from Zeovit but I either no longer use them or simply do not currently use them.

Conclusion

Since this is just a basic understanding of what the ZeoVit system is, it is diffuclt to come to conclusion other than from my own experiences. For me, zeovit has been a great system that allows me to tweak colors to my liking. The cost is neglible considering you would probably spend about the same amount trying to reduce nutriets through other means. The system is also a very easy system to maintain as long as you pay attention to what your tank is tell you.

Thanks Brooks! Someone make an offer! Never know what I might take, but please no low ballers

Sold!

Lol...probably not. I've still got quite a bit of stuff to sell. It's just putting forth the effort to list it all that has been the hold up.

Mag 5 pump for sale.

$30

Sold

Sold

Used condition

$15

I have two 15 lbs bags of Coralife salt for sale. Three of these bags come in the 150 gallon bucket so you could say these are 50 gallon bags.

$10/each

I've gotten out of the hobby so I no longer need this. Here's what I've got. Most of the prices are straight from aquacave.com or BRS.

Vertex Aquaristik ZF-15 Zeovit Reactor

$144.95 $90

1000 ML Zeovit Zeolites

$14.95 $10

Zeofood 7

I have two 50 ml vials. One is full, and one is almost full.

$18.95/each $10/each

50 ML Sponge Power that is almost full SOLD

$38.49

10 ML BioMate SOLD

1/2 full $17.49

50 ML Zeobak SOLD

Almost full $61.45

500 ML ZeoStart3

Almost full $63.85 $35

250 ML Coral Snow SOLD

Full $35.95

250 ML Pohl's K Balance

3/4 full $42.49 $15

Zeo Kalium Test Kit

Only used a couple of times $41.99 $25

That's $548.02 worth of product. I'm now parting out.

As always will hold with paypal. At this time I don't want to part out.

Bump....This is the same stuff they sell at BRS for $82.99

Thanks Nick. I do have one available. I'll let it go for 20 if you want it

I have a brand new unopened 5 gallon container of MagFlake from Buckeye that I need to get rid of.

$25 and it's all yours

Free! But you have to come get it today or tomorrow. It's an ugly grey in color with little spikes. Doesn't really matter what he looks like becausr you'll rarely see this guy out in the daytime. Also, if there is multiple interest I will reserve the right to choose who gets it.

I agree with that entirely. The only reason you would need the bolts is if there were any room for play inside of the tubing. Otherwise it should work great without.

This is just a quick thought so there maybe a better way, but at least it will give you an idea.

Take it to a welder and have them start by cutting the top completely off on the verticles maybe six inches down from the top so that when you remove the top the square is still in tact and has six inch legs. Then they should find the next tubing size down that fits inside the existing stand tubing, and weld the smaller diamter sections in to the inside of the stand so that you can easily slide the top on and off of the bottom. Then have them drill holes into the sections so that you can place a bolt. I would do two on each verticle. Hope that makes sense. I'm in a big hurry so no time to look over.