Beaux

Thanks Sascha,

I have only used the iodine dip, and did so as per my LFS advice.

I dip anything new and quarantine tank long before it foes into my main tank.

I am unsure if the weekly dose in the main tank does anything for pest control or if it's for nutrients, but reccomend dose 1x week.

Another feature that aqdiary app has is a reminder feature.

Possibly I need to be a little more clear on the "shrinking" part.

I get the new torch and the tentacles start thick as yarn and observe the shrink to thin as thread and die.

8 hours ago, Isaac said:

some questions... what are your water parameters?  what do you dose, feed, and how? what kind of flow are they in? what lights do you have? how far down are the corals from the water level?  do you have any algae blooms? do you have a health amount of coraline (its not directly related, but gives us an idea of the tank's maturity/stability)?  help us build your environment so we have a better idea on what to try.

 

47 minutes ago, Sascha D. said:

IME fragging the Euphyllia hasn't made a difference. Sometimes one head can be doing fine while another head immediately next to it can be closed up.  I've had the same result when I've fragged the closed head off and when I've left it on. Make sure all heads are closed as much as they go, remove the coral and dip it in Melafix, Coral Rx (they're pretty much the same) or iodine. These dips will treat bacterial infections and kill pests, but don't dip more than 3 minutes. Check the closed head for sand or other particles that could be irritating it. It helps to use turkey baster. If it's some sort of infection or pest, then you will have to dip multiple times at regular intervals. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the reply and suggestion Isaac.

I will have to research it because i am not at all familiar with it. Plus it's only a 3 head piece.

What really strikes me as odd, I am at the understanding that bubblehead and torchs are from the same subspecies, my bubbleheads are thriving while the torch is just withering away like that.

My water perameters have always been well within acceptable ranges. I use aqdiary app that is like a permanent diary  of what day it was tested, slots for all the results and water changes.

I often do the test first, then take a water sample to have tested by my LFS to double check my readings match.

Only once, very early on as I was learning how to test for calicum it did not match. My calcium testef 650  when the LFS tested at 450.

I do not dose anything because my tank is 90% soft corals. At the time I had only the 1 torch, single head, and 1 branch of candy cane with 3 heads. Which as of today is still flourishing and I can see growth. 

I have not dosed calcium because the peramiters were well within range and I had no "hard" corals in that tank.

I buy the premium salt water which I have always use from one LFS.

As far as feeding, I started general feeding mysis shrimp. They never seem to stick and I never really noticed anything being retracted in. It either drifted off or was picked off by my clown fish. I use Jabeo wave makers which has a setting to a timer of 10 minutes of 0 flow for feeding. Tried both ways several times, same results. 

Then my LFS suggested brine shrimp. Same results.

Did some research online and started using reef roids. General aimed spray at the candy cane and torch. Feed reccomend dose 1x weekly.

Flow was medium to low so there was a nice clockwise motion, not something that was slamming it abruptly to one side or another.

Lighting as I mentioned before, Fluval sea 2.0.

Placement is at bottom of my 20 gallon long, in the substrate. 

The tank is going on 2 and 1/2 years now after cycle.

My coraline covers about 90% of my live rock in both main tank and sump.

No algae outbreaks except very early on I had a moderate outbreak of Cyno. I have no coraline on my glass or equipment anywhere.

I keep a healthy stock 10 to 15 blueleg crabs, same with snails, (always having to up keep,  crabs killing snails, as well as a few niarasso (sp) snails.

My coraline,  if that is what I think you mean by the red covering on my live rock is a medium to deep red in color.

One medium piece in my sump is so dark, it appears purple.

My lighting is not suspended but rather sits on the rim of the tank. I have a marker set so that for what ever reason I have to move it, it is set back to its original position.  Also it is set with a very reliable timer. Although there is no way to ramp it. 

I am still on the hunt for the $100 adapter but with the 2.0 being discontinued I am having no luck. They came out with the Fluval 3.0 which is built in.

Probably alot more than you asked for, but did I miss anything?

 

 

On 7/7/2018 at 6:38 PM, Brad Wyper said:

I bumped into a member named Bo at River City Aquatics today. He told me that this forum is a good place for info, full of great people.
I'm going to check out, and hopefully purchase, my first saltwater aquarium tomorrow. It's a 125g setup. I think it's a smoking deal for $700. https://austin.craigslist.org/for/d/125-gallon-salt-water-aquarium/6633509193.html
I look forward to learning from you guys, and contributing to the community.
Brad 

Welcome Brad!
I am happy to see that you did take my advice!

As you can see we do have many active members, many with decades of experience in reefing.

If you need any advice or help navigating around please feel free to PM anytime.

PS mframe if you read this I accept PayPal for my recruitment fees!
Jk jk thats a joke [emoji6][emoji225]

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I have had conflicted answers about this so I am hoping the community can help.

I was told that if a multi headed torch, if some of them started to look sickly (retreating and not doing the normal full extensions) that the "sickly" ones should be cut off immediately. 

On head is doing wonderful, however the other 2 are jut starting that look.

This is a separate tank from the 20 g that for some unknown reason they do not survive. 

Every single parameter is on par, and I added chemipure elete as per LFS instructions.

I have no clue how to frag, or tools that would be needed.

Is this true? Do they need to be cut off? I have done the redips for parasite infestation.

I guess I am going to have to accept the fact I will never be able to keep my most favorite coral.

Hey Timfish,
I am thinking more this being a mistake on my part by moving them around to much.

It was early on and I had that can't keep hand out of tank syndrome.

Also grasping the dynamics of adding new corals can completely alter the flow as a whole.

I have learned a better lesson of let the coral be, and adjust my wave makers.

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Those have been around since the 80's my friends. Just invent a shrink ray, hook it up to a pump an presto!

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A miniaturized reef tank rumba, that sucks up top layer of substrate, with the built in chiller feeder on top.

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If you are south sometime, stop by and I'll give you a head or two of hammer coral that has been in captivity for years...

Thank you very much stoneroller.
Perhaps we could work something out if we ever get a date for our frag swap! LOL

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Thanks for the reply Reefpuck,
That first one was doing great on the first placement. Then I noticed it started to retreat with the tenticals, but the calicum base was growing.
I kept my calcium in check always use the same prieum water from RCA, and even check the parameters to check that they were as close to my tank water. I stll do this everytime.

I did video research, again conflicting about feeding or not. I chose not to because that was the only (hard) coral, and I did not have a skimmer. I moved it up about 2 to 3 inches, thinking it was the lighting. I also added my 10 gallon sump tank, as well as a skimmer.

It was still haning in there but I could see that it was still not doing well, but well out lasted the other torches that died within months.

I am going to try a hammerhead in my 55. The current is medium to low, just enough that it gives it a mild to moderate good circular motion.

Like I asked before with only one stony coral, everything else is soft, should I just stay away from feeding all together?

Other than that, I only have one dead zone because of my live rock setting, but I vacuum that area every 2 to 3 days. Not as a water chage, just the one area along with my weekly changes. Could my water be to clean?

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Oh and as far as dosing my Kh was off a bit so i started that last month.

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I have 3 different torches and 3 different frogspawns....frogspawns have always looked expanded and awesome...but my torches don't seem to expand like they used to a few months ago. I did change a pump in the tank and have a lot more flow now...so suspect that might be the issue...although they don't look like they're being blown around too much.
I would think all pieces in the euphylia class would act the same to parameters.
Have you tried moving the torches? Did you change any equipment recently? New salt mix or dosing something different?
 

Thanks for the reply Reefpuck,
That first one was doing great on the first placement. Then I noticed it started to retreat with the tenticals, but the calicum base was growing.
I kept my calcium in check always use the same prieum water from RCA, and even check the parameters to check that they were as close to my tank water. I stll do this everytime.

I did video research, again conflicting about feeding or not. I chose not to because that was the only (hard) coral, and I did not have a skimmer. I moved it up about 2 to 3 inches, thinking it was the lighting. I also added my 10 gallon sump tank, as well as a skimmer.

It was still haning in there but I could see that it was still not doing well, but well out lasted the other torches that died within months.

I am going to try a hammerhead in my 55. The current is medium to low, just enough that it gives it a mild to moderate good circular motion.

Like I asked before with only one stony coral, everything else is soft, should I just stay away from feeding all together?

Other than that, I only have one dead zone because of my live rock setting, but I vacuum that area every 2 to 3 days. Not as a water chage, just the one area along with my weekly changes. Could my water be to clean?

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PS. Without knowing if it truly works as advertised, I does KZ LPS amino acids. Have for years and seems to work for me and my LPS. 
what? decadal memory in corals? I found this https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00227-014-2596-2
 

Thanks for the input folks, and putting up with my ranting.

I looked over that link about rotations, very interesting.

As I added more stoney corals, my candy canes is when I really started monitoring the calicum. I had not dosed because the "premium" water I always get from RCA have alwas had a stable range on the calicum.

I tried spot feeding with brine at first but the clowns always attacked the torches. Then the rave of reef roids at 0 flow and flush feeding. Neither of which any of them seemed to accept.

The one in the photo had over an inch of tentacles and even longer of the white extended ones. It did puke a few times, but stopped once it started to recede.

I might try with the product you suggested, but was considering hammer heads, as they are supposedly a beginner coral as well. Or do you think I will have the same issues with them?

I want flow and movement, any suggestions? Tried pulsing xenia but could not get the flow right before they all died off


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I started off with this gal when I first wanted to know what it was. A torch coral. It instantly became my favorite type of coral.

She grew, ( the stalk) and I though I was doing everything right, it's tentacles just started shrinking in until it would only extend to 1/8 of an inch, and today died. I had her for 1 year 8 months.

I have bought more, yellow tip, a couple of browns while I had the first one, only have to have them wither away in a matter of months.

Can someone please give me a direction as to what parameters torches need to make it? What am I missing?

I have listened to all the LFS advice and have **** near duplicated the parameters they give me at a consistent.

I have watched 1000's of videos that only contradict everything they say. Parameters, flow keep them on the bottom, give them lots of space.

I go into the LFS and see some that have 0 moment and others blowing around like they are in a cyclone!

These are supposed to be beginner corals????

Would someone with some long term keeping torchs please point me in a direction, advice? Anything other than just giving up on reefing all together.

My numbers have always been acceptable, I keep my records and double check them with Francis at RCA.

Do I need the $1000.00 lights because the ones I have, the fluvals I was informed were more than adequate for torchs.

I do not have a par meeter so that is the only thing I can not check.

Should I just give even trying?

 

On 6/18/2018 at 12:11 PM, Bburrage04 said:

29G (30x12x19), 29G (30x12x19), Sump with no trays or roller.

Very interested.will pm you.

Hmmm... I really let my superhero figure go Beaux. Better go on a super diet. 1 sheet of nori a day only.

Now see I knew I should have posted my first choice... but this will have to have the ARC logo for the cape!

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52 minutes ago, FarmerTy said:

Oh no no guys! The fame would go straight to my head and I'd start wearing shades inside and charging little kids for my autograph.

Mr President (Ty), send over your measurements now and I can sew this up just in time for the meeting, logo included.

We should have a poll about the cape for some member involvement!

Oh man, tons of small tanks filled with water over my laminate floors. Combo made in heaven! [emoji12]

I think I'm better off just hosting another meeting and everyone can help me clean out my frag tank and be bribed with free food to do it.

Hey Ty,
I was wondering if the topics might be brought up to discuss before the meeting, whenever it happens? Dosing and flow adjustments mostly about torch corals. They are my favorites so far but I can not keep one alive.
Could we possibly allot some time for these please? I have studied for months and months, sifting through all the mismatched info, even from the LFS.
Also are we close to setting a date??

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Mine has been working fine Beaux. Maybe delete it and reinstall it?

Tried that first off thanks. It is off stuff, first I pulled down the notification. Instead of taking me to the for sale section it was a post abot a poll for Aquadome? I could not relocated it and it denied permission to reply, even though I was logged in. IDK might be an OS thing.

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Has anyone else been having problems with taptalk? The PMs are not working half the times, i click on a notification and it directs me to a completly different post??

That’s all Red Dragon, some was just in more light than others m.


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I will take them. Why is PM not working???

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In the front row, 3,4,5 and 5.

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The front row, the 2 pink and 2 purple ones, sorry dont know what they are called. I am interested. PM is not working for mr atm.

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i used loctite PL in the past for pond applications. no issues there but obviously the sensitivity is lower. try adding some activated carbon if you dont have any. 

Thank you Victoly,
That is the first thing i did.

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I finished my sump tank build finally. I started with aquarium sealant from my LFS, but the only had 1 tube.

Not to mention it was very difficult to use and I could not find any others local. So I went to Home Depot and the guy in the department recommend Loctite PL Marine adhesive, claiming it to be fish safe.

I just wanted to finish up and was exhausted from all the many hours I put into getting the build completed and let it set.

I started the sump yesterday, and by early evening I noticed some of my corals were retracting.

I checked the company's website only to be left with more questions than answers. They have not tested it with aquariums so no answer there.

I know it could be the corals being upset with the introduction of the sump. My numbers are all good. It is a 20 long and has been up for close to 2 years now?

So should i wait it out? Transfer them to another tank that just finished it's cycle, remove the sump?

Once they have been exposed to toxins (if it is even toxic), is there any hope for them?

Nothing has died, rather ticked off.

Thank you for your input.

 

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Never figured out what it was. It was opening when I first got it. Make it a habit to write the names down now before buying them
Sadly it died


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