Neon Reefer

what kinds of fish are you putting in a 29 gal system (small) that are dying.  Maybe the wrong kinds of fish  or maybe a really mean clown fish

Salt has three of four unopened bags  I believe you can see the rest. The gallon baggie is full of nuclear grade mixed color changing resign, enough to fill a normal canister. The refractometer works great

Also have a Eshopps 150 in sump skimmer with a Sicce motor for $50 works great just needs a little soak and cleaning for good measure 

Text is key  would like gone asap

andre

512.202.5033

Tank sold

BUMP

100lbs give or take of rock pulled from my tank  It is approx. been used for 5 years.  It needs to be cleaned and made live again.  Currently sitting in a 40 gal Brute with lid.  Can goes with it. 

text is the key  512.202.5033   andre

BUMP!

I need this gone this week end  First $300takes it all.

Text is the key to reaching me   

512-202-5033

I'm located in Cedar Park

150 Gal XT tank w/ Cherry Hood and Stand -

40 Gal DIY Custom Sump w/ 2x Compartments w/ Dual Bubble Baffles -

.Jecod DCT 8000 Return Pump @ 2100 gph (1000 gph at 7 ft head pressure).

1500 gph Single Corner Overflow w/Single 1/2" return line and 2X 1/4" return flex nozzles  -  

Eshopps PSK 150 in Sump Skimmer w/ Sicce 940 gph pump -

Plus a tom of supplies and chemicals

Everything working just needs a good cleaning

cut it

No TDS meter behind the DI canister to measure the good water or did these chemicals not register

I would suspect either metal poisoning or a bacterial infection like vibrio alginolyticus or sphingomonas paucimobilis.  You could try an antibiotic dip IE  half tablet of chloramphenicol in 2.5 liters of water for 3-4min dip

yes you are. In my 180 gal system you are removing 1.25 gals of fresh water from the 15 gal water change leaving a net of 13.75 gallons changed this reduces the % changed from 8.3% to 7.6% w2hich gives me 30% per month instead of 33% I don't mind paying 3% for convenience sake

having a large enough sump to do a 15 gallon water change by just adding the water to the sump and just letting it run for a couple of hours and then turning a valve on the manifold to remove 15 gallons to the brute container with out ever turning off any pumps or messing with anything except pulling the collector cup off the skimmer.

This is for non drilled tanks?

Yes, brand new tank,finished cycling about 3 weeks ago, changed 90% of water about two weeks ago, it has a gfo reactor now, and also got some emerald crabs and they're eating it, so we're good, it looks like it's getting under control.

Did a 10% water change, and the GFO and Carbon reactor are online.

If Emerald crabs are eating it then it is NOT bryopsis. Emerald's won't eat that, but they will eat other macros like grape algae

for your cladophora.pest their are no known preditors of this speces fish or iinvert. You will need to pull by hand and comb out everything you can over and over while reducing NO3 and PO4 as much as possible. It is a difficult speces to erradicate.

Not sure if you mean you are adding in additon to the VHO or swapping out the VHO. But if swapping out then:

54 - 3 watt Cree LEDs (164) on 24 watt converters would require ~ 3 amp total to drive @ 100% efficiency, twice that @ 12 volt. Gotta figure this to determine the total watts available to display.

If you have enough amperage to fully drive the LEDs then at 100% you have 164 watts on your corals. I utilize 360 watt system running @ ~ 300 watts and is about perfect for hard corals SPS and LPS at lower levels in a 75 G. However I am finding that some of my lighter colored zoas have melted away over time,even under the glass brace. I started @ 50% power and ramped up to where I am over a period of about 2 weeks. You should be Ok to go from a 324 watt VHO to 164 watt LED without too much change in LUX. However there are other mitagating factors that can affect this, such as your angle on the reflector. Wide angle IE 90 - 120 will not be as direct where below 90 will have a more penetrating LUX. Better safe than sorry so IMHO would start <75% and ramp up over 10 days.

However if in addition to existing VHO then you are doubleing your ~ LUX and should start at ~ 25%

But still expect some slight bleaching when moving to LED after a few days as your coral will need toexpel their current zooxanthellae for some more suited to the new color wavelengths, more like a color fading than actual bleaching and then they will color up again. Takes about 6 weeks to reach a full color up.

Andre'

Clark

I believe most everything everyone has posted here is correct, at least in their particular situations. The thing I would like to point out is every tank is going to be different and what works for one person and their tank is not going to have the exact same results in your tank with a different set up. There are many, many factors that play in to how any particular tank will respond to different scenarios.

Here is a for instance. Victoly is correct when he says it is important to wash frozen brine or mysis shrimp prior to utilizing same for feeding. I did this religiously when I was running a smaller tank 28 gal with no sump as Victoly does. I ran through 25 grams of GFO twice a month with this tank and never got my PO4 lower than 0.08 ppm on the RS Pro color wheel. This was feeding 1/2 cube of high quality Mysis or brine per day with 4 small fish and 40 lbs of rock. After stepping up to an 85 total gallon setup with a sump and doubling my rock I run no GFO and feed twice as many fish twice as much brine or Mysis and can not get a reading of GFO on the same color wheel.

The differences lay in everything we do to set up and maintain our tanks. The type of filtration, circulation, lighting, and housekeeping as ell as a host of other factors all make differences, especially the unlimited number of different combinations of all the factors. Most all set ups will work if properly maintained. Some would tell you a canister filter for marine setups is a Nitrate factory. Well this could be true if they are not maintained properly. But the reality is they can be very effective filtration and chemical delivery systems if properly maintained. They are really more of a preference in my opinion. Probably a good tool for those without a sump on their system. +

Veiw everything as a guideline and not an absolute, and remember stability is the key to success. Now granted you probably want that stability to be within the major guidelines for best success. Also many of the older guidelines have changed in recent years with the addition of newer and better tools. When my dad was keeping marine tanks back in the 70's many people didn't even understand the importance of utilizing live rock, much less all the powerful tools at our disposal now. Look at sumps for instance, what a change we have seen in these guys over the years. Sumps have evolved from the natural filtration tools utilizing sand, mud, rock and macros; to the age of reactors, skimmers and micro filtration. Same goes for lighting, changes in reef keeping are much like yor electronics. About as fast as you can get a new set up it becoming obsolete. No worries though, the true tale of success is watching your corals. Develop an intimate relationship with them and they will tell you what is going on. Make only one change at a time so you can accurately measure the results. One thing that does measure up thru the test of time is patience. Take it slow and you will know what is working and what is not. And remember growth is the best measure of success.

Any chalice has the ability to put out moderate to long sweepers. They are able to deliver a potent sting to any coral unable to defend itself. What determines the level of aggression could depend on the chalice itself but in my experience they can become aggressive when they "smell" a new coral in the vavinity. This can be controlled with water flow to protect the new coral, and in time the chalice will accept the new coral if they do not make contact.

In the case of existing corals growing too close one should monitor the potential aggressive coral closely, and at the first sign of aggession take steps to protect the harmless coral. You never really know with these guys, one day their fine and the next not so much. But I have corals growing on top of each other that seem to co-exist peacefully. Biggest problem I haver seen are muchrooms getting close to LPS. The bio warfare can be devastating.

75 gal under LED with the following wattage breakdown: 144 12k, 144 actinic, 30 RB, 18 RR, 18 green, 6 UV

Running at 80% or 290 total watts.

Lots of healthy acans

Yeah that circulation pump needs to be turned off

Right!

Looks fairly blue and I thought you mentioned previously you did not care for the "blue affect".

They are utlizing chips on board technology COB, which simply means they are packaging several light emitters or chips on a single fixture which gives the appearance of a single source when in fact it is not. Besides cost and space savings not rreally sure if there sare any other bemnefits. They do not mention what LED emitters they are utilizing and at the price listed I would suspect Chineese. But don't get me wrong, I am not dis'n the chineese LEDs. I uh utilize a few myself and have had no problems so far. I assume 80 watts will be sufficient for your 30 gal. Probably =to > than 150 watt MH so you should be able to grow whatever.

A dining room chair, a bag of microwave popcorn and a bottle of soda in a light dimmed room with some niice tunes on a Friday night.. About $1.00. Tank night is usually better than a movie. For another buck, an extra chair and a good friend you can make it date night.

^{LPS vcan be a fickle creature sometimes, and for no apparent reason just crash. And Duncans are quite sensitive to lots of things like all stonys. But they especially don't like SG changes that some other LPS will tolerate. Your PO4 is a little high @ 0.09 ppm, I'd try to get that down a bit although for LPS it really shouldn't matter. It may be a problem for more sensitive SPS though. It does look pretty far gone but you never know.}

Hey check your Personal message

I don't think I did a water change that day. The second drop was due to the outlet hose slipping off the return pump while we were out of the house.

Generally, I use ph as a very general measurement and don't actively do anything to try and alter it. I learned from messing with CO2 planted tanks for a several years to more or less ignore PH assuming it's within some reasonable range. There's just too many factors that affect it to go chasing it anywhere. In this thread alone we're discussing water temp, ambient temp, ambient humidity levels, alk, AC usage, dissolved O2 and CO2 (both in tank and out of tank), and this doesn't take into account dosing 2 part, or 1 part, or kalwasser.

Amen