All WYSIWYG

I would never suggest to use this product instead of qting fish. I think this medicated food is a crutch to allow your fishes health to improve enough to fight off the parasite on their own. I don't think it will ever completely rid a tank of ich and the manufacturer doesn't claim that. As with any fish that survives an ich outbreak in a DT it's the fishes health that prevails and allows its own defenses to fight off the parasite, this food should improve their health and give them a better fighting chance. You say there is a lot of data that suggests that it doesn't work 100% of the time, this may be true but I have never seen it. I'm not sure that we're talking about the same product since you call it an herb concotion, its active ingredient is actually phamacutical grade medication, chloroquine phosphate (not an herb). The company was created by a doctor and he is following the recipe that sea world uses so this isn't something brand new to the industry. I've done hours and hours of research and Mark C is the first person to ever speak negatively about the food saying that a breeder he knew it tried it and it didn't work. What data are you talking about? If you found something that I didn't I would like to read about it please. I'm testing the product myself but I also want other people to test it too, that is the purpose of this thread. Please note the theme of the thread, and the question marks, I make no claims that it works but I want to find out, that was the purpose. So I guess we're in agreement there, because testing it is exactly my plan. Again, I'd never recommend not quarantining fish. But if this is effective on any level it can help with those newcomers that do come down with ich. The anti bacteria food I would assume has medication in it for both but I really haven't looked in to it yet, I will though. The food does not have enough medication in to effect the entire tank, I do know that. The amount that it would take to affect an entire tank is far more than what would be mixed in the food.

They can and do move around, slowly though. Its a great way to make them reproduce actually, as they walk they leave behind babies. You may need to rescue the ric though, I wouldn't expect it to make its way out anytime soon.

Great! He has a good chance then.

Is it eating? Maybe you can try the medicated food first? Catching it will be stressful for the fish, unless you can do it easily it could be a death sentence. Unfortunately you are in a tough situation with a sensitive fish, odds are not in your favor. If its eating well I would stop trying to catch it and start feeding the medicated food. If its not eating it has to come out for treatment. I think I remember you saying you only had a goby in there with it right?

I've got plenty of this medicated fish food, came in yesterday. Anti-parasitic, de-wormer, and anti-bacterial. If anyone is having a problem with ich or bacteria infection and would like to try it please send me a pm. Kevin how do I get this to you?

Tim this is a good time to try the medicated fish food I just got, what do you think? I gave some to RCA and Aquatek for them to try, maybe you can get some from them to treat your fish. I'm really curious of how well it works and if the PB is eating it would be a good candidiate. LMK

If you make it out to the grand opening of ALL WYSIWYG you can see it in action. It's up and running now and even has fishes installed Hydro

Try some phosphate pads and run carbon if you can. The beneficial bacteria in a bottle will make a big difference as far as the recovery time goes. Mistakes happen from time to time, none of us are immuned. I spilled about 5 gallons of saltwater on the floor today during a water change lol, made a huge wet spot on the carpet. I've been doing this for years, you would think I would know better than to let that happen by now....

I hope he used it as a dip and I'm misunderstanding. If he used it in the tank I wish that I would have seen this three days ago! If so you need to be ready for some big water changes and also need to add beneficial bacteria afterwards to seed you tank again. I suspect your parameters are off, that could have killed the shrimp or it simply couldn't take the medication.

I'm sure its the furan!!! Wow I would never use that in a reef tank, its a serious antibiotic that will kill all the bacteria in your tank good and bad. You can bet long exposure for coral isn't good either. You killed all your biological filtration so you could be seeing spikes in ammonia and or nitrates, have you checked these lately? You are literally starting over now, there is going to be huge dieoff of bacteria and your tank will cycle again.

Chlorquine phospahte is supposed to work on brooklynella and Uronema timfish. Mark that's interesting since I couldn't find anyone that posted online that it didn't work, not that I don't believe you . Were they treating the food or were they treating the tanks? Were they using Dr G's or were they making their own? He told me if the fish aren't eating of course it will not work. Also he told me that it needs to be fed twice a day and if the fish weren't responding to the treatment the feeding needs to be bumped up to increase the dosage. Since this was the only negative thing I heard I'm still very optimistic. I I don't think it will rid a tank of ich completletly unless dosed in the water. I do think that it wll give the fish a chance to fight off the ich and and increase its overall health to the point where it can fight the ich on its own. Ich exists in most of our tanks already, I'm 100% positive that my tank has ich and my fish are able to stop infestation because of their health. I think this medicated will give them a fighting chance. BTW this can be used in conjunction with copper which is how I will use it just to be safe. I probably will lower the copper dosage to the least recommended amount and use it for 2 weeks. Of course you can also use the medicated food with a UV sterilizer

I would be glad to get you some George. Mods I wasn't trying to start a group buy in the reef keeping section but its starting to turn out that way so of you feel it needs to be moved I understand. I actually was hoping to find several people having problems with ich right now that we can really test out this product and document their successs or failure.

Ok so I called the owner who answered his phone at 7:30pm and talked to me for over 30 minutes, that says a lot about a company. He is a doctor in charge of 9 cruise ships out of florida, that's cool! Dr g's fish food is all natural and has no presevatives, no fillers etc. His food is really popular in florida it just hasn't made its way this far west yet. They don't just sell medicated food, they sell pretty much all frozen AND liquid fish food. He told me they are working on more liquid fish foods that are kept refrigerated for easier feedings and less mess, I have to agree. For his standard foods the pricing is supposed to be 25% less than the competitors. I meant to put the link to the website earlier, here it is http://www.drgsmarineaquaculture.com/frozen-fish-food.cfm Anyways I asked him about inverts. He said that inverts can eat the food and it does not kill them!

I got to say I'm pretty excited. He was going to send it on monday ground shipping packed in dry ice, I may have him 2 day it instead because I've got some fish that could really use it. They aren't sick, I think its a great preventative and I don't want to take any chances. George I will ask the owner what happens if a invert eats it, that's a really good question actually. I'm glad that you mentioned that. Kevin and Timfish I got you down for some food. It comes in anti parasitic and anti bacterial, Tim do you want some of both? I'm getting both for myself, they are about $15 per flat after shipping which I think is pretty cheap if it works. A regular mysid flat lasts me a week and I'm feeding over 100 fish now, I think they cost $5-6. I'm getting some extra if anyone else wants some.

If it were me I would do nothing if the fish can breathe ok and is acting ok. Let the fish stay in the tank and don't stress it, I would only catch the fish if it was obvioulsly stressing out from the glue. I'm almost positive that the glue will fall off well before the fish starves. A healthy fish can go weeks without eating, I worry more about stressing the fish out trying to remove it when it willl probably come off on its own in a few days. If it hadn't come off in a week I would think more about taking it out and removing the glue.

The amount is not enough to cause a problem from what I understand, also chlorquine phosphate doesn't remain active for long so there is not really a chance of building it up in the system if used over time. From what I read it degrades even faster under bright lights, it also can be skimmed out and carbon does absorb it. I will be feeding this to my fish in the reef tank, I'm confident there will be no issues. The only problems I read about is when uneaten food fell on some corals it would cause them to bleach in that spot. I read that people feeding it would use a turkey baster to blast their corals after a feeding just in case.

Who has ich problems right now? Who wants to try this food? I should be getting some in the middle of next week and I would like for several people to try it. I will be feeding it to all my fish in QT so I have faith that this product is safe. Cross your fingers that it works, this could be huge for the hobby! So many fish can be saved!

Lots of you guys know me around here as Hydro. I decided to start my own business selling quarantined fish which led me to hours and hours of research on QT methods and medications and boy have I learned a lot, I read as much info as I could find. There are a few medications out there that aren't typically sold by stores and are flat out hard to find but are amazing for treating ich. One medication that has rave reviews is called chloquine phoshpate. Its supposed to be very easy on fish and there are no fish that seem to be sensitive to it (from that I've read). What's great is that it cures the fish from the inside out! Copper and hypo are hard on fish and they can't kill what's attached to the fish, only what is free swimming. CP actually gets in the blood stream and kills the ich on the fish which speeds up the QT process since you don't have to wait for all the ich to fall off the fish. CP is only available one place for fish and its extremely expensive. It’s not safe for all inverts and its not safe for all corals BUT it does not absorb in to LR and it does not kill beneficial bacteria! For FOWLR tanks this is a miracle cure from what people are saying. But what about the full reef miracle cure? As I was reading I ran across information from a marine biologist giving a recipe on how to add it in to food, this is the same recipe that sea world and all the major aquariums use for treating their fish. There is a small company out there making frozen fish food with the medicine already added, and its awesome ingredients so I think the fish will love it. I couldn't find anywhere to order this product, I wasn't able to even order off their website. I contacted the company and since I'm a retailer I was able to order some direct. I want to test the product asap, any volunteers? Anti Parasitic Frozen Fish Food, Flat Pack Anti-Parasitic Rx Treats Ich, Brooklynella, Uronema, Crypto, Oodinium and many more parasites. For Fresh Water and Marine Aquariums. Will not affect your Biological Filter. Medicated Frozen Banquet with No Preservatives, Binders or Gels 100 Grams (3.53 oz) Flat Pack Coral Reef Safe. Treats your Fish, Not your Water! Effective new treatment for several forms of marine and freshwater parasites, that can harm or kill your fish. Amyloodinium Ocellatum or Oodinium is a parasite that primarily attacks the gills. Symptoms include rapid respiration, lethargy, loss of appetite and color fading. Brooklynella symptoms similar to Oodinium, but it also produces a heavy amount of slime. A thick whitish mucus covers the body, skin lesions appear and signs of secondary bacterial infections may arise. Cryptocaryon or Marine Ich causes white spots (like grains of salt) on the surface of the fish. It may also cause breathing problems, abnormal swimming, a layer of mucus and cloudy eyes. Uronema Marinum symptoms include rapid breathing, flashing, color fading, weight loss and dehydration. The fins of infected fish become slightly opaque and appear brittle with frayed edges. Directions: Break off enough for 1 feeding. Do not defrost in water-allow the frozen food to soften at room temperature for a short period of time, then add the morsels to the aquarium. To avoid any possibility of damage to invertebrates and corals, remove food that falls on corals with a turkey baster and use Dr.G's Chemical Filter and Phosphate Remover to remove any medication from the water that was not consumed. Dosage: Depending on your tank size, break off a 1/2 inch square piece to start. Feeding should be completed in 3-5 minutes, adjust size accordingly. Do not over feed. To "Treat" Parasitic infections, use as regular food twice a day for up to 3 weeks. To "Prevent" Parasitic infections, use regular food every day for up to 3 weeks. Repeat when new fish are added to your system. Storage: Keep frozen at all times. Active Ingredient: Chloroquine phosphate. Exceptional Fresh Ingredients: Atlantic Shrimp, Squid, Aquacultured Oysters, Oyster Eggs, Scallops , Clams, Octopus, Pacific Cod, Gut Loaded Mysis & Krill, Freshly Harvested Dr.G's Rotifers, Freshly Hatched Baby Brine Shrimp, Adult Brine Shrimp, Arctic Cyclops, Green/Red Unroasted Nori, Garlic, Freshly Harvested Dr.G's Phytoplankton, Dr.G's Reef Essential Vitamins and Amino-acids. Made in the USA.

Cool LMK when you get closer to needing stock. If it helps this bowfront does not have the weird magnifying effect that I have seen with some bowfronts. I think that happens with thicker glass, or maybe the glass isn't smooth, not sure. Stephen (Hydro)

I got light hail damage on (2) F150 trucks, roof and hood only and I mainly want the hoods fixed not really concered about the roof. I have insurance but have a $1k deductible on each truck. Maybe we can work something out for corals or fish. Cool idea, hope it works out. Oh BTW I have a 36 gallon bowfront tank with stand I could throw in the mix.

I'm going to start a thread on sizing chillers in case it can help anyone else too, there is actually a formula for it. You may want to check it out Also are you sure your chiller can't be reapaired? If you can get it to biocubed he can bring it out to my shop and I'll take a look at it. Maybe its just the controller which I have generic replacements for. If its repairable it may only cost you $100-$200, if its a compressor maybe a little more. hydro

Yes you do need to cover you tank or they can escape. I don't think that its something they constantly try to do but in case it gets curious. I have a small zebra eel too, only about 12" long and an inch in diameter that might be perfect for you. I'll send you a pm

I've tried 2 flame angels and both of them munched on acans and any montipora in the tank. I'm 110% positive that it was eating coral and not just picking around it. The one I recently pulled out of my tank ate a hole in a large colony of acans and alomst ate entire acan frags that I have too. It picked on my montiporas so much they are barely starting to polyp out again and the fish has been out since friday. I really wanted this to work but now I'm on my second one....probably going to give up. Maybe my tank is like an irrestibile buffet for them, I'm not sure. I do have a coral beauty that is perfectly behaved, and I've had a swallow tail angel and bellus angel that didn't pick on anything either. Luck of the draw really. I would suggest an eel for something different. Snowflake, zebra, and dwarf eels are considered fish and coral safe by most people. I have a huge zebra eel in my reef tank and its always a conversation piece to say the least. At first I would have never considered because I had a few shrimp and crabs in the tank. After thinking about it more I decided that a 2' long eel was waaaay cooler than a couple of shrimps. Not having a few shrimps opened me up to having more fish that I wouldn't consider before, like a harlequin tusk for example. I wouldn't suggest a 2' eel for a 57 gallon but snowflakes for example come in pretty small and the dwarf eels are really small, so small that they are invert safe too. I keep a pair of them in a 55 gallon with a pair of fire shrimp and a CB shrimp with no worries.

Got mine on ebay with free shipping for around $12 I think. You need a tiny plastic syringe and I think that it comes with it, at least mine did.

+1 Great job man, looking good! I can get you any reeflo pump that would run everything that's external if you want. This way lots of the heat can dissapte in to the air instead of being absorbed by the water. I like the hammerhead, only uses 3 amps but can put out 6000 GPH. What's cool to is that if you put a ballvalve on and throttle it back it actually uses less power. For my new tank I actually got a reconditioned hammerhead and it was waaaaay cheaper.