George Monnat Jr

It will be safe in your system, however it will not eat any pests. To be a pest eater, a wrasse must hunt smaller invertebrates; I doubt any such wrasse would turn down a sexy shrimp lunch.

Thanks for the info. That's kinda what I thought. I read that all three Wetmorella, or Pygmy Wrasse, species tend to stay in pairs in nature. Do you think a couple would be ok in a 6' 125g w/ 190# LR, even if they don't like each other?

I would like to have a wrasse or a similar fish that would eat pest crustaceans, snails and worms without harming my ornamental crustaceans or purchased worms (big feather dusters), coral, corallimorphs, etc. Since I have a lot of Sexy Shrimp and other small ornamental crustaceans, I have avoided all wrasses. Last night after looking at a thread on wrasses, I started looking at pygmy wrasses. I figure if the wrasse doesn't get much bigger than the Sexy Shrimp (1") and is well fed, then maybe it will leave them alone. I have a ton of amphipods in my system with no wrasses, dragonettes, or any other pod predator.

Has anyone ever had a Tanaka's Pygmy Wrasse (Wetmorella tanakai)? LiveAquaria implies that it'll leave everything alone. Any other pygmy wrasses or others that don't get much bigger than 2" and eat nuisance critters?

Gigantic carpet anemone. In blue, expect $300+

How big do they get, or what's the minimum recommended tank size?

Sorry to read that. You can use red light or an IR camera at night to see. They don't respond to red and IR. I'd try putting a bottle trap with bait in it overnight and seeing if you get something.

I've used the Two Little Fishies ReVive Coral Cleaner on SPS, LPS, mushrooms, anemones, ricordea, etc. and never had one die (at least not in the first few weeks). I've never had hitchhiker issues with them, either, but maybe I'm just lucky. (Or the hitchhikers already in my tank are meaner than the newcomers.)

Wow, great lens. Does it have a little brother?

Since the dips I've seen are supposed to be corallimorph safe, including anemones, I doubt the majano hitchhikers would've been prevented. Anyone gotten rid of majanos, and how did you do it? This article mentions kalk paste (and has a picture of one next to Xenia).

I lost everything I got from RCA the next day.. except the food, snails and crabs. oh well..

That sucks. What was it? Fish, coral, clams, or all of the above?

Timfish has a great point, all things need to be slowly acclimated as sudden bright light can shock and bleach them.

I have 2 48inch Marineland Reef Capable Led lights I was wandering were these sufficient light for a 90 gallon for polyps and shroom and some LPS

Here's a chart I go by, provided by one of the other ARC members. You'll need to borrow or buy a PAR meter to test your setup.

I have more information in my RC blog. Note: I'm not a marine biologist or coral expert (by any means), but I know optoelectronics.

What kind of LED do you have

I have the following AquaRay setup:

Those mushrooms are in the back, right corner, so there is a little less blue than in the middle of the DT. I want to get more blue, but I don't have the money right now. If I remember correctly, all of the LEDs are Cree XR-E, XP-E, & XP-G Power LEDs with the blue peaks at about 465nm and white's blue peak around 440nm, which is nice.

I think the only way to completely rid your tank of ich is to leave it fallow (no fish) for 9+ weeks. There's some more information on hyposalinity here.

I have both Pacific Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp and a good UV sterilizer. I know neither is a singular solution to curing marine ich (Cryptocaryon irritans), but I firmly believe both help my fish recover on their own (no chemicals/medications as I have a lot of crustaceans). The cleaner shrimp go after ich spots on infested fish. They may not get most or all of the parasites since they bury deep, but they try hard and do get a percentage. The UV sterilizer can only get the parasites that are floating/swimming in the water column and happen to go through the sump and sterilizer, but again there is a percentage killed. Then reducing stress for the fish and feeding well with garlic has worked for me every time. Including right now as I had an outbreak last week. Mine was due to introducing a new Powder Brown Tang then stressing everything out trying to re-catch it after it began eating LPS. So far all of fully recovered except the bicolor blenny which is almost fully recovered.

I had a similar hard lesson when my ATO with limewater shut off but continued siphoning into my sump. My sump overflowed (a little) and pH went through the roof. Sometimes siphoning really sucks (pun unintended, but there it is).

While I agree with leaving them be and treating with garlic, lots of WC, etc., perhaps removing most if not all of your rock plus corals and all the inverts you can catch would be easier than trying to catch the fish. Put your rock/coral/invert into a QT(so to speak) and turn the display into your QT and use the hyposalinity method versus copper.

Robb was correct, I just want to stress not putting any copper in your DT no matter what is currently residing there, because the copper will bond with rocks, substrate, etc. and can kill inverts for years.

So.... I do have a pistol shrimp, or at least I added one, I have not seen him pretty much since the day after I added it. It was a very small one that was paired with a watchman goby. When I say small I'd say about 1/4". That being said, I have not heard any clicking, given 3/4" glass in 92 gallons of water, and that small a shrimp would I even hear it? Better question is; would that shrimp be my killer, either now or in the future? I was under the impression that the Tiger Snapping Shrimp as shown here: http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=497+525+1148&pcatid=1148 was a safe addition to my tank.

I have a Tiger Pistol Shrimp that's now about 2" long. Pretty big. I have lots of little Sexy Shrimp at about 1/2" each and a Yellow Clown Goby that's about 3/4". I'm pretty sure my pistol shrimp hasn't bothered any of them. I can hear mine clicking/firing almost every day, especially in the evenings after I've fed. I wouldn't think a shrimp that small could be the cause, but who knows what does and does not look like food to a pistol shrimp?

I have a Super Reef Octopus XP5000. ... It is extremely sensitive to certain things like coral glue and epoxy putty. These things will make it overflow and takes a good 3-5 days of running carbon to get it to stop. I've only used one other skimmer so I don't know if this is common for all skimmers or just mine.

My Aqua C 180 stops skimming for an hour or two after I put my hand in or feed. I haven't looked at it after putting super glue or epoxy in. It wouldn't surprise me if it stopped skimming for hours or a day, but I've never run carbon to make it skim again.

No anemone, yet. Have not heard any clicking.

That's good. If you hear clicking or popping you may have a hitchhiker mantis shrimp or pistol shrimp. I think that's pretty rare, though.

Mines been missing for months...

I suspect the condy 'hid' it.

Never found a body.

Yep, mine seems to be gone as well. Not sure what got them is the odd part. I've seen nothing being aggressiveness toward them, during the day or the little bit I've watch at night. I've been reading about the coral banded shrimp, some posts say they are, or and be aggressive toward smaller fish. These cardinal's are smaller and they are slow swimmers. Has anyone here had that experience with the coral banded shrimp? Not sure it maybe he's taken them. The coral banded shrimp is actually pretty small also, and if it was him, two in about a 12 hour period? Seems like a stretch.

Do you have anemones? Have you heard clicking in your tank?

Sweet, thanks.

I'm looking for a 2nd MP40w ES, too. If you find a pair but only want one, I'll buy the other from you. If they're used and cheaper than $465. Or I'll continue saving up into next year.

Do you feed it? Maybe a nice silverside will make it sit still and digest. Or crawl into a hole to digest.

I don't know anything about Octopus. I like my Aqua C 180 with a Mag 9.

I dip all mine in Two Little Fishies ReVive Coral Cleaner that I picked up at RCA (I think). It's worked well so far.

I've never seen the Peacock-Tails be aggressive towards anything, including each other. The Blue Maxi-Mini in the picture above is my biggest at about 3" in diameter, and you can see how big the shrimp is in comparison. I've never seen both Peacock-Tails in the same anemone. I don't know if that's because my Maxi-Minis are too small or if they like to be alone.

Welcome! The most difficult thing with reefing is patience.