prof

Mike...get a bigger rock of zoa and drop it on that damsel

Most tanks that I have come across are measured on the outside of the glass. Trim usually is 1/4" on each side. So, outside of glass to outside of glass is 18" and trim to trim would be 18.5".

I won't promise that all tanks are this way but they usually are.

I don't like to ever use chemicals if I can avoid it. I learned a long time ago that patience almost always works. No offense mama

Test your water and make small adjustments. I sometimes will stir it up and pull it by hand if it gets thick enough.

Three days of darkness is also a bandaid. It is better suited to cutting back on photosynthetic (green) algaes.

Ultimatly you have to find the cause. As previously stated, usually to many nutrients.

Good luck.

I think once the water gets that high you are beyond any concerns of efficiency. Water is always trying to find its own level so the highest water (surface) is going to be the first to pass into the overflow. Think about it as an overflow without any teeth.

Once the water is 1-2"+ above the overflow you are still 'skimming' but it becomes more of a drain at that point.

So, yes, we are discussing the same thing

Add a solar trickle charger to extend the life of the battery without the need for grid power.

All car batteryies/deep cycle batteryies should be stored outside in a ventilated area and properly racked. While today's batteryies are better about handling temperature changes and moisture they should ideally be elevated off the ground and kept at a consistent temperature. Battery acid is a nasty thing

Don't forget to test the system routinely.

Chad, is the higher water level causing problems? I also wonder if your standpipe is to tall. It should be below the lowest part of your weir.

Pbnj;

It does not matter how high the water is at the weir. Water is being pulled from the surface of the tank. I can see how you would be pulling a little more water from under the surface but that is going to happen after the surface is drawn into the overflow. In this situation you are just drawing a greater volume of water through the overflow.

Some return pumps are designed to be throttled back. You can always add a T to divert part of the water from the return pump back into the sump.

You will only raise the water in the sump until you remove some of the total water volume.

I wish you a speedy recovery. Glad to hear all has gone well (at least since the crash).

I doubt that it will cause any problem.

If you are real worried about it you could always use a brewery cleaner.

Austin Homebrew

A RODI system is plug and play. All you need is a water supply and a drain.

Ok, yes, you will also need a container to hold the RO/DI water. A small trash can or other plastic bin and a float valve will keep you from haveing to manually monitor the making of your water.

For years now I have relied on a 100gpd system connected to a 30g brute trash can on wheels.

100gpd RODI - $150-200

Trash can and wheels - $40

Float valve - $15

Extra tubing - $10

Misc. fittings - $10-20

Extra pump and an old python siphon hose - $50-100

So, on the high end it is close to $400 in equipment and that does not cover upkeep. But I run close to 800 gallons in 3 seperate systems... I would not live without it and I never carry water anymore!

If you are frugal you could put together a similar system for less than $200. Just use a lower gpd system and shop wisely for your accesories.

You don't have to keep extra filters on hand. Just keep a couple of water jugs handy. If something goes wrong with your system you can always fall back on the LFS for water.

Mike's system is great. Find his thread on auto-topoff. That is the way to do it! His method may border on extreme but you will never hear him post about how his cheap plastic bucket cracked or how his repurposed toilet repair parts are failing. His complaints are going to be about how his digital timers are more difficult to setup than an 80's era VCR

Yup, that is all it takes.

RO actually describes just one of the 5 stages of that unit. The usual set up is sediment filter - carbon filter - reverse osmosis membrane - de-ionization... Two or more carbons and/or sediments will extend the life of the RO membrane.

Go to HD or Lowes and buy window screen material. They have all the supplies to make a screen, frame and all, from scratch. Just stick with the plastic screens so they don't corrode.

Giant beer fountain for parties!

I have fine grain, white sand for $1 per lb.

It is virtually the same as the aragamax and aragasnow products. Most white sands come from the Bahamas and the only real difference is the name on the bag.

I usually fill up a tank/tub/sink with water and add a gallon of vinegar to it. Then I soak everything I need to clean for a couple of days. At that point a rag or soft bristle brush will get it clean. Calcium deposits will turn to mush.

Awesome! I am glad to see it going together. Keep us updated.

I really like it. Very well put together. I can't wait to see it in use.

Crazing is generally caused by a temperature difference. Flame polishing cold acrylic could cause a large enough temperature differential to cause crazing. It can also occur if you use alcohol or ammonia to clean acrylic. Applying weld-on after flame polishing will do the same thing. As the alcohol in the solvent or cleaner evaporates it cools the acrylic to fast.

I have flame polish many tanks without any problems. I have also used it to dress up older sumps and tanks that have seen better days.

If you attempt to silicone it back in place you have to make sure to clean ALL of the old silicone from the brace and from the tank where it connects. Mineral spirits works well for this but I don't think it would be a good idea to get any in your tank

Silicone is a great product that does its job very well. It creates a strong waterproof bond and has a surface that keeps other things from sticking to it. This is the fault of fixing tanks. Don't put silicone on silicone, it won't last. I don't know how long epoxy will last when attached to silicone but it is worth a try.

Chrispar's fix will work as well. You just have to have enough plastic trim to attach to and a wider piece of acrylic.

Keep the clamp on! The seams will let go if you leave it off long enough.

Out of curiosity, what paint did you use? Did you prime it first?

I believe he is using the razors as 'pins' in place of acupuncture needles. It is a fine line between having to much and to little space between the sheets of acrylic when bonding. If it is to tight the WeldOn won't flow correctly and bubbles will form. If it is to loose then the WeldOn will run out.

The basic idea behind this type of construction is called capillary bonding (or gluing). The surface tension of the WeldOn will pull it into the space between sheets. The solvent melts both sides of the acrylic and when the alcohol in the solvent dries the acrylic solidifies into one solid piece.

Since both pieces are being melted it is actually welding, just like with metal, except chemicals do the work instead of heat.

I don't know about pro, but that is pretty close to how I do it.

I like your 90 degree jigs. They make assembly much easier.

Try flame polishing the edges when you get a chance. Practice on some scrap first. I use a MAPP gas torch to flame polish. It only works on the edges and will just burn a flat surface. Getting the speed right is the tricky part. You want to linger long enough for the acrylic to melt slightly and stop before it starts to burn. Just make one consistent speed pass along the edge and watch the magic! Those chamfered edges will shine like glass.

Oh, never flame polish an edge before gluing. It changes the molecular structure and will cause crazing when glued.

I have lots of great sand, $1 per lb. PM me if interested.

I have done it. It works fine but you do have to moderate the temperature. Heaters are easy but a chiller in a Texas garage gets expensive. I finally got walls around my tanks and turned it in to an air conditioned space.

There are some challenges but you sure can run lots of gallons!

Oh, and it will quickly rust every metal item in your garage. It makes tool storage a chore.

Kalk paste and a syringe works well for me. I also love peppermints for aptasia. Copperband butterflys are great if you can keep one alive.

Aptasia are great filter feeders and due to their prolific nature make a great scrubber for a sump/refuge.

Running the glass tops will trap more heat. Open top allows for the best evaporative cooling.

When installing multiple fans in a canopy I always recommend having them all blow in or all blow out. If you have one pushing and one pulling you are essentially doing the same thing as running a single fan.

Don't forget to look at your sump. Your pumps generate heat and that warm water gets pumped into the tank. Adding a fan to your sump is another way to increase evaporative cooling.

You can successfully run a tank at temperatures in the 90's. Ask me how I know I prefer to be between 78 and 82 if possible and consistency of temperature is more important than the actual temperature. I would rather have a tank run at 83 degrees all of the time instead of having a tank make a 5+ degree temperature swing every day.