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Wildman926

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Posts posted by Wildman926

  1. I also have one. Conditioned, ready to go. It is as red as they get. Here it is in my sump, in a net. The light in my sump area is a simple plant grow light. Under actinics, it just burns. I will post a pic of the parent tonight when lights are on.

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  2. I am looking to see if someone would like to net their astria starfish for my Harlequin shrimp. Or if you want him to clean up your tank, we could work something out. You can pm if so. Thanks.

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  3. For a mixed reef tank with SPS, we usually estimate 1 foot of our lights for every 10 gallons. This works for most tanks up to ~180 gallons. After that, many big tanks do not have corals everywhere in the tank. Hence, we will create a 3D lighting design model for the larger tanks.

    Having said that, two 48" fixtures is plenty for a 55. Most corals can accept a wide range of light levels, and more light usually ranslates into more growth and improved coloration with SPS.

    Nick

    We have a 185 gallon tank it is 60Lx30Wx24H. You said that for tanks over 180 you can create a 3D lighting design model for bigger ones. Is that just the way the lights would be set up or a different light? I am not wanting to mount them to the tank because I don't want to have to move them when I need to get into the tank. I was planning on having them at least 6" off the tank but from what I read they need to be closer. I am having problems trying to find lights to cover the footprint that I have. Most cover up to 24" and I don't want the front part or the back part of the tank dark. Any suggestions?

    PS - Our linear fixtures provide great uniformity in larger tanks, as we do not use LED 'clusters' that produce bright and dark spots. Here is a 374G tank we recently completed.

    Nick

    Nick, did those "radium clones" become your 14000k lights?

  4. google durso stand pipe, or search on ARC...it is by far the best way

    Does not even come close to a Herbie setup. Any overflow that allows air will have noise. I have tried Durso, Hoffer, and Maggie muffler to no avail trying to reach that silent overflow. Not until I put a Herbie setup on my overflow. Here is a video of it to show. Just click on pic. The vid shows my backup using a Hoffer, but that was changed out to a standard pipe after seeing how quiet the Herbie was-

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  5. No need to break down the seupt.

    Lights out for a couple days, total darkness, cover up the tank if possible. Turn lights on slowly, blues only if you can for a day or two, and repeat if necessary. Corals will go to sleep, and so will fish. I guarantee this will knock out cyano. Nature does this with rain and storms. Do a water change before and after. Make sure skimmer is on 24/7 during this.

    Then slow down on your feeding to help with nitrates and phosphates. Water changes will take care of the rest.

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  6. Thank you, and it was very nice meeting you. Your tank is very nice.

    Folks, here is a pic of one of the RBTA's in my tank. It settled in immediately, and buried it's foot. The pic looks great, but does not do it justice like seeing it in person.

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  7. What difference did you notice when you stopped running your UV?"

    Hi Kim,

    I noticed that the water clarity was going south, also, much more algae growth on the glass that what I was used to seeing. I run the flow to help with algae, not ick. There are different flow rates for ick and for algae.

  8. I use the Coralife brand, Turbo Twists. They do require the maintenance. I usually do it when the bulb needs replacing. I stopped running them one time, and I noticed within a week the difference, which was not good. So I added them back.

    I like the look of the Petco sterilizer. Just drop it in the sump and go.

    I have since added Ozone injecting it into my skimmer, and that has made the larges difference in crystal clear water quality.

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