Wildman926

I have an Aquamaxx EM300 if interested.  Like new, was my backup due to being a bit large for my 150g, but still pulled skim hard.  

It comes with an extra new impeller. The impeller in the pump looks new also.

I have made two modifications -
1. Plumbed airline into cup to pull moist air in to keep venturi clean, and put it up above the top line so that it does not pull in waste.
2. Added extra air nozzle to run ozone directly into the venturi. It is capped
off.

PM me if interested.

Hey Jack, great build thread. Love the tank, and the house. Just thought I would stop by and say hello.

PM sent on Kryptonite Candy Cane corral.

I use a simple gravity fed ato using an a acrylic tank, 1/4" John Guest valve and tubing, and an Eshopps float valve. I use this setup on both of my tanks, 150g, and 110g. It keeps it dead on, 0 fluctuation. If the valve sticks, it sticks in the off position. I only clean them once a year in vinegar due to sticking.

I am currently treating my 150g with Chemiclean for this. It was recently migrated from a 110g. The contents have had it 3 times now.

However, my 110, which was migrated to from an 80g, does not have it. The contents of my 110g, when in the 80g, never has had it. Very strange.

I just use a pump stopper kit, from Aquahub, modified for my use with dual floats, a siren, and heavy duty cord. If I ever lose siphon (never have, even when I swapped out contents), the float in the tank triggers a dpdt relay to shut off pump. If that float ever fails, there is a second one in the sump if the water gets below it.

Here are some pics.

1 - Normal operation

2. - left/tank float tripped

3. - right/sump float tripped

Are the sides painted black?

Hello Kim,

I have not found any issues with having a deep tank, although all of the cons mentioned are possibilities. Having a dsb helps if that is in your plans to implement. The wow factor often outweighs any issues you run into. As far as lighting, you actually get to keep more variety in your tank, as not everything needs a tremendous amount of light to exist and thrive. Those that don't can go towards the bottom. I have converted my 150g last weekend, and still have my 110g show (48x31x18) and I absolutely love them. You also get the benefit of the extra water volume.

Phamily, text sent for age of tank and pics.

Aaarrrggg, PM sent.

sale pending

I have two like new Eheim pumps, a 1262, and a 1260 (motor is same, only difference is volute).

The 1262 is less than 4 months old. It has extra fitting, extra 1260 volute.

The 1260 is less than a year old. It has an extra home made fitting, and 1262 volute.

You are getting two pumps in one, per pump depending on your volume needs. 1262 flows 900 gph. 1260 flows 650 gph.

$125 each, no trades. Can deliver on Monday, unless you want to meet in Temple this weekend. Can hold with PayPal.

If this falls through, please let me know!

I would think that changing water conditions, and lights would affect the color more than feeding it. Here is mine.

Nice looking tank! Good luck with the gonipora though. I've never seen one survive long term in an aquarium.

Thank you. He is just just blowing up like crazy. Since I have had him, he has many new small "polyps" or stems that are growing out. He was in my 110g, and I just placed him in this 80g just a few days before this pic. I really like the purple tipped pink plate coral.

Can you believe this?

After I posted this thread, I decided to use the second waste collector on my 80g, and hook it up to my Eshopps PSK-100 that uses an Atman PH2000 from my old PSK-150. After I finished, I thought that I had the skimmer set where it was, and walked away. But it was not. It overflowed and the waste collector's built in overflow protection kicked in and shut off the skimmer as it should! Very cool!!

I purchased a pair of Octopus SRO's in 1000 and 2000, and a pair of their waste collector units with the built in overflow protection. I am only using the 1000 and one collector currently. The 2000 and second waste collector is for a 150g conversion at a later date.

I am using the 1000 on my 110g, and I can say am very pleased. It replaced an Eshopps PSK-150, which did an excellent job. I have always like the Octopus line of skimmers, and decided to make a switch.

After a thorough fw bath, it was put in production, and it has performed flawlessly. It is sitting in 5.5" of water, gate valve needs 5 turns in for dry skim, 5 1/4 turns for wet skim, literally. I put a rubber connector, 90* elbow, straight tube, and 45* elbow to direct the output in front of my return pump. I had to build a stand to raise the skimmer to have the waste cup output higher than the waste collector to drain properly. I also removed the straight plug adaptor on the collector to 90* elbow, 3/8" tube adaptor x 1/2" npt. I also put an 3/8" 90* elbow on the output of the waste cup, and used 3/8" clear vinyl tubing to connect the two. That is the only drawbacks that I have. Here are some pics ( I have since moved the plug to the back/outside of the stand) -

Just wanted to follow up with a new pic of the 80g. I can not say enough good about these lights.

Here is a pic taken of the other side. It is actually even on all sides with color as it has settled down now. Once it really gets in its groove, it will color up really nice.

Pic doesnt really show much for direction. Buy if LED then deffo not excessive light.

Obviously, you have not dealt with quality LED lighting.... Here is a pic I just took of my 110g xhigh, 31" deep with Current USA LED Pro strips.

This is what I am talking about. I took this pic last night. Notice the spotty coraline algae on the back glass is very pale, or there is a "hole" in the middle.

My experience was with a fowlr tank and all the coraline was dead in a week. But like I said it was a few years ago and the formulation may have changed. I'm assuming you've checked the pH, alk and calcium in you tank to see if they've changed any. Looks like a nice Fungia by the way.

I literally just got through treating last Friday, and after the treatment, I did a 50% water change. Nothing affected but red cyano and coraline algae on back glass. Thanks for the compliment on the fungia. I got him as a purple/green fungia, with him almost half and half. Now, he is mostly green. I must be doing something right.

I purchased a pump stopper kit from Aquahub. It uses a dpdt relay inside. I did not like the majority of the components, so I built it to my tastes. I purchased floats and brackets from Autotopoff.com. I purchased a larger "project box", and added an additional float, and a 110v ac 90db buzzer. I also needed a larger cord grip as I wanted a beefier power cord. I found out the directions were wrong, and let Aquahub know the corrections.

The floats work -

If water rises in tank, it shuts off the pump.

If sump level lowers, it shuts off the pump (my backup).

If the pump is shut off, it stays off until the problem is corrected. A red indicator is lit and siren are on until problem is corrected. Once problem is correct, you have to push the reset button to power the pump back on. Here are pics testing it. The left float is for the tank, and the right float is for the sump -

Would think thats caused more from excessive light exposure.

LOL... Did you not notice that light was on the coral and not on the back glass? I have LED lighting, which is directional.

This is what I am talking about. I took this pic last night. Notice the spotty coraline algae on the back glass is very pale, or there is a "hole" in the middle.

This pic is 15 min after being placed in my tank. The IPhone does not take pics good enough to do this LPS justice. After taking the pic, I noticed the other side had more color to it, or seemed to. I will take another pic tonight and post.

I haven't tried the Red Slime Remover in a while so I don't know if the formulation has changed and maybe other people's experiences have been different but when I used it it had a pretty negative effect on coraline algae.

After 2 treatments, I did notice there was a slight "paleness" to the coraline algae, mainly to the new "spots" on the back glass. The coraline algae on the liverock was not phased.

I will take a frag when ready! :-)