Isaac

had to add netting to frag tank and office tank... some... escapees found (a bit late, ugh).  I dont really like the look of a screen frame, so designed some clips:  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3436507

11 minutes ago, Sierra Bravo said:

And consolidation.  The Wisconsin facility where DFS operated from is being closed and those employees laid off.  Fulfillment will occur from Petco.com distribution centers.  It will be interesting to see how their product selection changes.

oh  seeing how they maintain livestock in-store, i really hope thats not how they maintain it in "warehouse"

hasnt petco owned DFS for a looong time?  i think this is just rebranding really.

i've actually had to modify the html prior to uploading because it broke their android app.  so, yea, its possible to edit things prior to upload, they have no crc/md5 checks.  if you only wanna upload certain files, just remove the files you dont wanna upload and upload that partial directory. seems like a pain in the arse, but might work.

if you use the initialize command, its supposed to clear it out.  then flash firmware, reboot, flash web, reboot.  if you are getting timeouts mid-flash,  i'd check the simplest things first.. are you doing it over wifi, is your ethernet cable going bad, is your switch port going bad, is the ethernet port on the apex going bad, etc,etc.

if you end up buying a new one, ill buy the old probes off ya.  my backup base unit wants to work on my second tank, but has no probes, its lonely.

now do palytoxin!

lux meters are good for arguments w your kids "its definitely brighter today" *lol*

its best to debug directly on local dashboard, not through fusion.  Download "net analyzer" and scan your network.  neptune classic apex network hardware will show up as "nipon dempa co."  that will give you its current IP.

https://techet.net/netanalyzer/

batterywholesale is out of g-town, most often are the cheapest w/ no shipping.  you dont have to get branded batteries, often the after market ones last longer and offer higher AH for the same price/physical size. i get about 2 yrs out of mine. cheap enough to have a set on standby if need be.  The UPS will run w/o batteries, so its not a huge issue if you have to wait a few days though.   my server closet runs at 50%, tank system around 40-60% during "daylight" depending on the one heater on the ups (i have 2 other heaters on a relay). 

while the primary reason for a UPS is for battery backup, there is a good secondary reason to keep it inline.... clean power.  When you have sensitive & expensive devices to protect... like an apex with sensors on it, you dont want electrical noise to fry the boards and stray electrical pulses to alter your sensors accuracy.

There are a couple things to remember however... APC uses pure sine modulation, so you can run motors without much damage, other brands mostly dont have pure sin, and the motors will burn out faster (i think i read like 30% faster, i cant recall where right now).  Also, high load items like heaters will drain the battery really quick.  I setup a relay for my heaters.. EB8 port triggers a relay, which activates the heater which is actually plugged into the non-backup receptacles.  I bought a second UPS just for the heaters (still waiting on getting replacement batteries for it... APC smartups/backups are cheaper at auction w/ dead batteries!)

If space is the issue, and you have a low load overall... they make some pretty smallish ones.. its a balance between runtime and what you feel comfortable with.

full disclosure.. i have UPS's on pretty much everything in my house, except fridge/freezer.  things with compressors are even more sensitive to UPS modulated power... i dont wanna deal w/ replacing compressors.

test your change water for phosphates every once in awhile... you'd be surprised how many times the "new" water is actually higher than the "old"

and updated again

updated

another round of chalice! get more than a few, we can work out a discount.  willing to trade.

I have a spare (since i use the apex for them), drop me a PM

i still think he does water changes, but he's too embarrassed to admit it now.

i been having a GHA explosion in both my tank systems for a couple months since the big storms.  while all the news was about city of austin water, im prerty sure lake g-town (which feeds RR) got elevated levels of phosphates, which made its way into our tanks.  I dose/feed the exact same thing religiously (i have "my process" on my build thread), and my phosphates spiked to 0.60 6-8 weeks ago.  around that same time, my DI started burning off quite a bit faster as well.

both tanks get top off from the same feed. tank in my office only gets pellets, dosing nothing.  both tanks started GHA at the same time.

on a side note, my office tank is starting on week three of fluconazole.  If it works, my main DT will get it.

also, my algea scrubber got clogged up w/ detritus, just barely unclogged it tonight... so we'll see is that takes off this week.

return pump 2x/yr, sump bottom.. whenever i do a water change from the sump... powerheads... when they get noisy (or in the frag tank.. when it gets hairy).

IO RC had a price drop on amazon last week.  keepa.com rocks when you set it up right

its a pretty simple/decent design.  mebbe i shoudl practice my acrylic skillz and start making these.  w/ the proper jig, should be relatively easy?  my concern is the heat from the led's warping / yellowing the plexi.  are the side windows glass?

I use 4" ones for the skimmer drain... i have like 12. when I have about 10 used I disk then in tap water, then use a house to spray em. turn them inside out with a broomstick and spray again. then they soak in wreak bleach bucket for an hour. then washing machine with vinegar. then washing machine with nothing. I have to do all this because they get caked on since I wait and do them in bulk. Add 7"ones to the mix from 180 and 40 tanks now.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

so part of the sump cleanout was removing the old bioballs...  the idea is great, but it also backfires if you are trying to limit surfaces for pests.  I have a big enough fuge for pods and such, i dont think i need the bioballs anymore...anyways... i liked the tray ontop, but i wanted to start using a sock too.... so, my first acrylic build attempt...

measure twice... cut once... forget to include width of the sheet for the back,, compensate *lol*  originally i was planning on having a solid back panel.. but ended up having to split it.. oops. (pardon the huge bag of SHOES for the garage sale) 

cutsheet...

compared..

installed..

still need to make the splash guard..

"why the tray isaac?"  if a fish makes it down, they can flop into the sump.  once i had bubble algea, having it not in the sock made it easy to remove and not burst while not knowing it was in the sock tumbling/bursting (never saw any again... i got lucky), etc.  the filter in the tray is a medium/large koi pond filter.

PM's about my redline overnight   was too late to txt

that would be some "strong" beer?

10 hours ago, FarmerTy said:

13 hours ago, Dogfish said:

Funny Mine is a fish food fridge. Just happens to have beer in it sometimes.  Too bad I didnt know you when I hosted servers out of my house. Cooling a bank of scsi hard drives was a bear.

Mine is strictly a beer fridge which happens to hold fish food. I have my priorities in life.

i see how it is... all you offer guests is water?! no love for the union.

13 hours ago, Christyef said:

  You had me at beer fridge...

doesnt everyone have one?  it doubles as my supplements fridge too