dweyant

I have a fairly large (4x8) train setup that I would like to sell/trade.

It is an HO scale train with the track, landscaping, transformer, etc. all setup in a really nice 4x8 landscaped thingy.

The train that went with it is dead, but everything else is in working order.

I honestly don't know what this thing is worth, I do know it would cost several hundred dollars to build, but I'm not looking to get that much for it.

This would be a great setup for kids to play with. My daugher had a lot of fun with it, but she has outgrown it, and I need to clear up some space...

I'm open to cash (of course) or trades. I just upgraded my 75 to VHO lighting so I can start to do some easier corals, and I know my wife would like some frogspawn, and/or some other pretty, sway in the current sort of stuff .

-Dan

I'd be interested, especially since I just put in some new VHO lights that could use some testing as well.

What other equipment would be of value for occasional use like this?

I used to be in a dive club that had a collection of gear they rented to club members. For the most part it worked pretty well.

-Dan

I have a complete T5 two bulb 36 inch setup for sale. It is about 3 months old and works great.

$100 for the setup.

-Dan

I have an ARO VHO ballast for sale. Details:

Electronic VHO ballast

powers up to 440 watts

max. 16' of T12 VHO lamp

Input: 120V, 60Hz

operates 2, 3 and 4 lamps

Model: VHO Florescent

High performance, Energy Efficient

Asking $40

I bought this from Shane and Belinda a couple months ago intending to use it on my system, but I decided to go a different direction.

-Dan

Hmm, might help pay for my hobbies .

It is well water so no city water company to call...

I did hunt around on google a bit and the only thing I could find was TDS in swimming pools, and they said to drain the pool and put in fresh water...

-Dan

So apparently I have really bad water

The TDS on my well water is about 1800ppm. The water coming out of the RO membrane has a TDS of about 65.

Apparently (from what Bulk Reef Supply told me in an e-mail) I have delpeted my DI resin in less than 100 gallons of water.

So, my question is, does anyone know any way to lower the TDS on my supply water so my DI resin will last longer?

Thanks,

-Dan

Contact Information:

Phone No: 763-432-9691

Fax: 763-546-1720

Hours: 9-3 CST Monday – Friday

Email:[email protected]

Email:[email protected]

Email:[email protected]

Thanks, I don't know if you got that off the web site, but I couldn't find it anywhere...

-Dan

they typically don't return phone calls till later in the day, sometimes the next day.

Can't even get voicemail this afternoon. It just rings...

I'm sure they are closed now, but I started trying to call before they left...

-Dan

I can't get anyone at Bulk Reef Supply to answer the phone. First it went to voice mail, now it just rings.

Does anyone have an e-mail address for them?

Thanks,

-Dan

I'm hoping to get my order in by 2:00 today. If anyone wants to piggyback on my order let me know.

-Dan

I tried running it for a good 15 minutes, also tried flushing the membrane for 15+ minutes.

-Dan

I purchased a BRS RO/DI syste about a month ago as part of a group buy.

I've made maybe 100 gallons of water with it so far. I started it up today to make a few gallons and I noticed that the TDS meter on the output side is sitting around 50-80ppm. Previously it had always sat at 0 (after the first ten minutes or so).

I can't believe that the DI cartridge is failing after only 100 gallons? Maybe I got a bad one? Thoughts/suggestions?

-Dan

In an effort to try and get my Green Hair Algae under control I'm seriously thinking about getting one of the BRS Dual GFO and Carbon reactors.

I thought BRS was still runing the free shipping, but I don't see it on the web site now (swear I saw it earlier today).

Anyway I have about $90 worth of stuff I need, if anyone would like to piggyback on m order they are welcome, and we can split the cost of shipping (if it isn't free).

I have the prefered pricing from a previous group buy that might save you a few bucks.

Let me know if you need anything. I'll probaby look at placing the order on Monday.

-Dan

For Dan, yes, cut back the lighting period. It will help. Not sure if the pH issue is part of the issue but I doubt it. And avoid the buffers.(I think someone addressed this in another thread.)

How do you keep your Ph up if you don't use the buffers?

-Dan

One other thing. My Ph has been quite low (about 7.8), I have been working on bringing it up using a Ph buffer that Shane sold me. I have it up to about 8.05 now still a little low I know, but moving in the right direction. Any chance the low Ph is contributing to the Algae problem?

All my other parms are quite good.

-Dan

Right now I am running the lights ten hours a day. Should I cut that back some as well? (In addition to the other suggestions)

-Dan

Is it Ok to do the three days of darkness thing with fish in the tank? I.e. it won't hurt the fish?

I am feeding mostly flake right now, what do you suggest instead of flake? I feed brine a couple times a week, but I know it isn't enough by itself (right?).

-Dan

Ok,

I've been fighting with Green Hair Algae for a couple months now. Tried taking a toothbrush to it a few times, but it keeps coming back. Added a bunch of snails, a starfish.

Any suggestions on how to get rid of it?

Thanks,

-Dan

So they are local then? If so that will save allot of shipping..

They dont list an address on there website.

Burnet

I believe this company is local.

http://www.plastic-mart.com/index.htm

I believe someone mentioned in an older thread that you can actually pick the items up and save the shipping costs.

I bought my 1500 gallon well tank from them. Drove out and picked it up, they where about $150 cheaper than the local folks, so well worth the drive to Burnet.

-Dan

I had very little problem last year without air conditioning my house to keep my tank cool, using small 4"/120mm fans. I got mine from Radio Shack but I believe you can buy them almost as cheap on the web that also come with the power converters - I think mine are 12V. I have two blowing across the lights and one sucking out air from the canopy. I am convinced the most important one is the fan sucking the air out. Evaporative cooling across your sump makes sense, but I have not needed it thus far. The timers on the fans Dave mentioned make very good sense, even if they are mechanical timers.

I have two small MHs. I think you are going to notice a BIG difference in running 4 VHO's compared to 2 T5's. Just the fact you are talking 440 watts rather than 78 is significant but I think the T5's are just more efficient/cooler ta boot.

Bill

Do you use glass on the top of your tank, or do you leave it open? I currently have the glass tops on mine, but I"m wondering if taking them off would help some with the temp.

Looks like I'll be making a Radio Shack trip this weekend to check out those fans as well!

-Dan

Question for everyone.

How do you control your water temp? I have been running my tank at 78 all winter, and now that it is getting warmer it is starting to creep up to 80 - 81 during the day.

First, how high can I let it get before I need to worry, second how do most of you keep your temp under control?

I'd like to avoid a chiller if possible..

I currently am running two 36 inch T5 lights. I'd like to switch to 4 48 inch VHO lights, but I'm sure that will just make the heat issue worse.

I have a fairly low canopy as well, would a fan or two make a difference, and what type, where do you get them?

Thanks,

-Dan

I'd love one as well!

Some of the worst/longest to heal cuts I've ever had have been coral abrasions. I have gotten them a few times while diving, and even with a good triple antibiotic they seem to take a lot longer to heal than a normal cut.

I have a little clown goby I got from shane a while ago. I don't know if he has any more of them, but it is about our favority fish. Bright yellow, and he is all over the tank.

-Dan