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wayneb

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Posts posted by wayneb

  1. Friday was spent cutting some of the 2x4s I had on hand to size for the show tank stand. Then spent time cutting crown molding. Fun trying to figure out the angles required to get the molding looking right. Luckily bought and stained extra lengths of the molding. Look at it as getting to play with my new compound miter saw toy. Need to make another run to Lowes and pick up some more 2x4s, 2x6s, and the angle iron. Plus a supply of ¼" lag and carriage bolts.

    I re-measured the space for the stand again before cutting any wood and found my dimensions/conversion was way off. Instead of 6' length, it is actually a little over 5'. A lot of this is due to the hot water heater closet door frame, as I decided not to remove it. The other is that the wife doesn't want the stand to extend into the hallway. Even at a 5'x 3' footprint, the size should be sufficient for any future growth.

    I keep trying to transfer my plans to paper, but brain doesn't want to work. I can visualize what and how I want to do it so the build will probably be on the fly. After Saturday's meeting and the photo lessons, will try to take pictures of the build as I go. Some things I do know is that I will probably overbuild it and the wood of choice will be poplar for the visual surface, doors, details, etc.. Poplar, mainly cause I have a large supply on hand, and have used it on past projects and its easy to work with. Plus the fact that Lowes carries it and that Fine Lumber and Plywood off Brown Lane has the moldings in Poplar that I want to use to detail the stand and canopy. Besides, Poplar takes a stain well.

    I stated earlier in a Blog that I wanted to build the stand in sections: I.e. Base to include bottom, walls, and tank platform sections. I also plan on building the canopy the same way, but that is still in the visualizing stage of planning.

    1. The bottom will be a framework of 2x4 with a footprint of 57"x 30 ¼". It will be inset by ¾" at front and sides to the legs which will be 2 2x4s sandwich together. Still trying to decide if I want the legs to sandwich ½" plywood to make their overall dimension of 3 ½" x 3 ½". Will decide that when I get to the walls build. Cross bracing on the bottom will consist of 2x2s and 1x2s. On top of the bottom cross braces will be a piece of paneling on which the pond liner will sit. Again haven't decided at this moment if I want it to slope toward the middle or toward the hot water heater. Either way when coupled with a bulkhead fitting, will provide good drainage and should prevent water from sitting and going stale should there be a spill over. On top of the top cross braces and framework will be ¾" plywood bottom for the sump/fuge. All wood will be stained and varnished or at least varnished to protect against water damage.

    It is now a couple of weeks later, and due to other considerations (weather, work hours changed, eye surgery, and other "to do" things the wife wanted done) was not able to do much more on the stand. Did go to Lowes and pick up some of the materials I needed. Also got my 50g "curing tub" up and running. Even got a start on the RO/DI set-up. At least got the water supply from the wash room to the garage with no leaks. As soon as I can locate all my tools will finish up on that.

    Was able to work in the workshop, so bisquited/glued up various widths of poplar boards for the stand doors. Still have to sand, cut to size, route details on them and then stain and varnish. But again it is progress. Need to finish the stand before I can custom fit and finish the doors.

    Saturday- 6 Feb 10.

    Friday was a constructive day. Finished and varnished the base framework.. Still need to add pond liner base, liner, and ¾" plywood top. Found that I did not need to use lag screws as 3" wood screws provided the stability I was aiming for. Also got 3 of the glued up door panels sanded and was working on the fourth when I quit for the day. Hope to finish up on base today if the weather remains nice. Pictures below showing my own tailgate party.

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    Complete frame with liner supports added. Note: supports were angled so that water would drain toward the back right of base.

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    Three of the glued up door panels which have been sanded.

    Sunday - 7 Feb 10

    Wife had more “honey do” projects, so accomplished little on the stand. Did work some more on the RO/DI setup in the morning, as I redid the water connection from the washer into the garage. Wanted to eliminate a couple of the fittings used and add a 2 hour garden watering timer. Figure that 2 hours equals about 6 gallons of RO daily which should be more then sufficient for my immediate needs. Still need to obtain some hose to wall clamps to neaten up the look. Plus still trying to decide how I want the set-up to work. As with everything, do a little, rest a lot.

    Did cut out the liner support panel and got it varnished. I decided to go with 3/8” particle board to provide a bit more support for the liner. Looks as if I will have to cut a hole in the panel corner to provide clearance for the bulkhead fitting obtained from BRS. Thinking this should work even better as it will form a pocket for any spill over to collect in. Hope to get the pond liner installed and attached to the frame and the ¾” plywood base cut out today. Again depends on the wife and weather.

    Finally on Saturday, worked on the fourth door panel a bit. Still have more sanding to do. Also trying to decide if I want to biscuit/glue up more boards now for the canopy. Probably will wait until I get a better idea on how I want it set-up first.

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    Liner and support screwed to base. Note bulkhead fitting in corner.

    Friday morning: 12 Feb A.M.

    Still haven’t progressed beyond mounting the liner and support to the base. The weather and eye surgery has prevented me from going any further at this time. As soon as I can see well enough to drive, need to hit the DIY stores for some more items, mainly ¾” plywood. Wasn’t happy with the quality of the sheet I had on hand so decided to get a better grade. Realize that it won’t often be seen, but still want to build it right. A show tank is a show tank. Figure will post this chapter today, and add a Chapter 6, part 2 later. Have to work out how to add the pictures, etc.

    As with all my blog and forum entries, always appreciate any comments and suggestions, be they positive or negative.

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  2. I wish the chat was used more often. Everytime I enter, there is no one else there. Maybe I am doing something wrong?

    Rjohn - me too early on- so kind of gave up even bothering. An idea is to post a note on your "update status" block that you are going on-line to the chat room and about what time. If we see it and are interested we can meet you there. Be prepared to wait a couple of minutes for members to come up before leaving room.

    wayneb

  3. Since I set up the ponds quite a few years ago, have always relied on the outside hose to top up/replace water plus what ever rainfall we get. Have not had any ill effects yet as both koi and water plants do fine. However, whenever I did do a "re-do" or complete cleanout of a pond, I removed all fish and plants and transfered them to one of the other ponds (note: have 4- smallest being about 300 gal and the largest about 1500+ gal). Refilled from the hose and usually waited a couple of weeks and then transferred fish and plants back. Our local water supply (Aqua Water) has a high mineral content so am figuring that re-filtered waste water from the RO/DI has to be better or at least not any worse plus the fact it is being put to good use and saving me money.

    wayneb

  4. Would like to get some opinions here concerning usage of the "gray" or waste water from an RO/DI system. I would like to use the waste water to top off my various koi/lily ponds. I was thinking of adding another sediment filter to the waste water supply before running it into a holding tank. I pm'd BillB (as pres of APS) for his opinion and he thought that it might be okay as long as the amount is less then 5% of total pond quanity which it would be. He also thought it would be okay to check with other members too for their inputs. I read thru past posts but this specific use of the water wasn't address.

    As always thanks for you inputs.

    wayneb

    PS: Andrew anyway to add "and", "or" to the search option?

  5. Bill, so far parameters have checked good, nitrates and nitrites peaked abit but partial water changes brought them back down. Will be monitoring them frequenty as I keep expecting them to spike. Am curing only about 40 lbs of rock at this time (10 lbs dead rock, 13 lbs of live rock and about 17 lbs of holy rock). Will be slowly adding more of all 3 types as time goes by. Overall only plan on going with a total of not more then 50 lbs of holy rock as base rock. Any extra holy rock I obtain, I'll use to waterscape my koi ponds.

  6. Luke,

    Have a TV console that I stripped the tube out of and put in a 20 gal freshwater aquarium plus put a couple of ten gal ones on top. The overall size is 30" x 14" x 31" tall. Free for the taking. Probably can put 3/4" plywood on top.

    wayneb

  7. Yes, but will have to wait until middle of Feb. before I can drive up there (cataract surgeries) to get it. From your description of her yard, don't think it will disappear. Appreciate if you will give her a heads up for me and my thanks.

    wayneb

    Update on the holy rock.

    Contacted Jakedoza's neighbor about coming up the 19th of Feb. to get about 25 lbs. She said no problem and that she could make me a good deal on a larger quantity if I wanted it. Thought I would check with other members to see if anyone else would like some and we can split the cost. PM me if interested and the quantity you would like. She made it clear that the rock will need to be cleaned, etc. before using.

    wayneb

  8. Got me thinking - my first born won me 8 cases of coors. As one of a group of nine couples who were stationed at Mather AFB in Sacramento, worked together, and basically ran around together established a pool for the first born male. It seems as if we were all expecting about the same time (we think it was the wild weekend we spent a few months earlier camping out on the beaches in Monteray{this was the early 70s}). Out of the nine, we were the only ones to have a son. Made for a good party, however soon after we all shipped out to different parts of the world.

    wayneb

  9. Okay, thanks for the answers. I'm going to go ahead and try to add mangroves and chaeto and of course cucs, but will wait until our Reef Cleaners group order goes out around the 19th. This will give me two more weeks to increase the lighting time, see about fixing up another light fixture with more 6500K bulbs as recommended, and adding an eggcrate rack to support the mangroves. Don't know if I'll increase from a 200g powerhead as it seems to be doing a good job of agitating the water.

    One thing I did do when I originally set it up was put a top on the tub consisting of a 1/8" 2'x4' light difussing panel used for overhead fluorescent fixtures. The panel was flexible enough that I could bow it inward to allow any water splashed up or condensation to drip back into the tub and not down the sides. Also added a wood frame to hold the light fixture and keep the tub from bowing outward (it wasn't as tough as the ad made it out to be). Main thing is it works and was/is cheap.

    again thanks,

    wayneb

  10. Have the 50g tub up and running to cure the rocks and holy rocks. Never got a definite answer on the lighting requirements except "not too long" so went to Petco and picked up a couple of 6 inch bulbs - 1 being a 15 watt clear bulb and the other a Coralife 10 watt 50/50 fluorescent. Turn them on at 1400 and off about 1800. Seems to be working okay as so far no algae bloom on the holy rock. Due to the cold weather, did have to add another heater. Want to monitor it another two weeks or so before adding more live rock etc. Have been doing the water changing every 3/4 days.

    My newbie question of the day is: Can I add mangroves and chaeto plus CUCs to make it a fuge type configuration/holding area until I can actually transfer them to the sump/fuge once it is set-up?: If so should I increase the lighting period and/or do I need to add more lighting?

    thanks,

    wayneb

  11. Got me wondering now on how it would look on the back wall of a 55g long. Also what about using crushed coral and/or rubble instead of sand to fill in the gaps? Overall it appears that the final look is going to be more natural then the foam forms that can be purchased.

    wayneb

  12. Thanks everyone for the input.....LA Lakers it is.

    Wayneb,

    So far I have 2 frags....one sure smaller than the other and they're slower growers...but once the get a certain size, they just keep going. I'll be posting them for sale and you'll be the first to get notified. Zoas are opened and they seem happy...so a few more days and they'll be up for grabs.

    -Cindy-

    Sounds good, shoot me a PM when you (and they) are ready.

    thanks, wayneb

  13. Liz,

    I'm ready for the group buy when ever you decide to go with it. Figure my order will be about $30-40 toward the free shipping requirement.

    As stated, since I work part time- I can act as gofer for any of the south Austin/Bastrop/Kyle area members who want to join in.

    wayneb

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