Mad Reefer Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Hello all!, I'm planning on plumbing a manifold off my return pump to run all of my other equipment. Please share with me some pictures of what you have done. I'm looking for good ideas in design as well as what materials/fittings to use. My hope is that this thread can become a reference for manifold design for anyone planning a manifold down the line. Thanks! -Madness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Here is my manifold. It has 4 outputs that are all controlled via true union ball valves. There is a port for 1/4" tubing to feed my CARX and an extra ball valve port for misc purposes. I cannot take credit for building this as Offroaddodge gave me this when I bought his old pump off him. I just wanted to upload a picture of it in case it helped anybody. Sorry, this is the best photo I could take of it in the sump. Sent via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Reefer Posted September 15, 2014 Author Share Posted September 15, 2014 Thanks JeeperTy, I see the calcium reactor port on the bottom and it looks like your return is running off the second ball valve from the bottom. May I ask what your running off the top two ball valves? P.S. Love Offroaddodge's work. Still wishing i pulled the trigger on his 200G Euro Braced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 It was an awesome tank for sure! I was running a GFO reactor on the 3rd port but pulled that offline and run my biopellet reactor on the 4th port. The 1st port is unused currently. I like the design of the manifold. With the vertical design, I have to remember to close the valve to the effluent to the tank when I shut it off, otherwise, air gets into the top of the manifold and comes blasting out through my biopellet or GFO reactor. Perhaps if someone was planning to mimic this design, maybe build in an air bleed valve on the top of it so you won't have the same issue I have with it. As long as I close that 2nd valve though when I shut off the return pump for repairs/maintenance, I'm good but I don't always remember that when I need to. Sent via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 I was just thinking about it when I was responding but, I should just switch my 2nd and 4th port so that my return to the tank is the top one and I won't have to worry about the air blast as it'll just go to the tank. It's sometimes nice to just write things out... Sent via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Mitch Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 I've got pics in my tank build (link in sig). Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Reefer Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 I was just thinking about it when I was responding but, I should just switch my 2nd and 4th port so that my return to the tank is the top one and I won't have to worry about the air blast as it'll just go to the tank. It's sometimes nice to just write things out... Sent via Tapatalk Cool. I think you are correct. that will definitely eliminate the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Reefer Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 I've got pics in my tank build (link in sig). Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk OK Mitch, I must now officially hate you because of how awesome that tank is...... Here is a link to the manifold pics for those of you too lazy to read the whole thread I have 2 questions for you. I'm having trouble figuring out the purpose of the Tee on you return line that goes through a gate valve back into the sump? And less importably , what is the brown stuff in the upside down 2liter soda bottle? I love that the ports on the manifold are over and point down toward the sump in case of leaks. Wow. a super nice tank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robb in Austin Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 I'd recommend this one: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Mitch Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 I have 2 questions for you. I'm having trouble figuring out the purpose of the Tee on you return line that goes through a gate valve back into the sump? And less importably , what is the brown stuff in the upside down 2liter soda bottle? 1) The T is to bleed off flow from the return pump and allows the amount of water returned to the display to match the flow which comes thru the overflow. 2) I was trying to hatch brine shrimp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroadodge Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 TY...if you use the backflow preventers that I used on that manifold it wont do that. (backflow air) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 TY...if you use the backflow preventers that I used on that manifold it wont do that. (backflow air) I was going to leave them in place Jeremy but when I went to clean everything before installing, I noticed they looked like they were wearing down a little too much so I didn't put them back in place. I just remember to close the valve before shutting down the pump and it usually takes care of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Here's mine. Bio advised me on how to make it with correct pressure. Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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