How to Build a Sump - Acrylic

[lemonyx]

I'm starting my 200gal build and starting with the sump first. I will show you how I do it and most of the tank builders do it.

The sump is about a 79gal measures 49 3/4"L x 24"W x 16"H. I used oversize sheet of 3/8" Plex "G" which is 50"x99", great for those who have to have a 24" deep tank (inside dimensions)

On with the build.

The plans, gotta have a map of what you want, where it's gonna go and if it'll fit or not.

I didn't take any pix's of the cutting as I have my wholesaler do that. But the routing is the next step

My router table, I have a total of 3 leafs if i need the room for those longer tanks

The working end

What's left after routing, a big mess that sticks to everything. Too bad I can't melt this and make a sheet of plastic

The ends pieces

The baffles

The front and back and top and bottom pieces

The filter Sock Holder

The tools:

[lemonyx]

Start the build:

Starting on one end of the sump

I use these 45's to hold the acrylic at a 90' and have about 6 of these made up and sometimes have to use all six of them. (forgot to take pix of that :roll_eyes:)

The pins method of assembling acrylic. These are acupuncture needles that I use and are about the right size. I use to use those tie wraps from the produce section but they were too thick (big around)

The magic juice - combination of Weldon #4 and *%$@#&*^.

Shims, these single edged razors work the best for slipping under the acrylic, thin enough but you can stack them when you need them. You need some type of shim to keep the acrylic edges together for no bubble seams (as well as the routed edge)

more to come

[lemonyx]

More sump

Spacing out the baffles and making sure they are perpendicular to the bottom. I'm using a 2" pvc pipe which comes out to 2 3/8" spacing between baffles.

All 4 baffles in place, decided not to split the fuge area and will it will be just the baffles.

Before I go any further, I just remembered that I need probe holders so went looking thru my scrap pile and this is what the out come is.

Hummm black or white thumb screws? I used the black ones.

I like to use my "head" to work smarter and not harder (lazyness) but I use the electric drill/driver to tap all of my holes and have had no problems. There will be some who have not done this or think that they "know it all" and will chime in and say it'll break, won't work ect ect ... If you use the right drill size for the tap, it'll work.

Ok enough of that.

So I made two of them, the shorter one is the prob holder for my AquaController, just checking Temp and PH for now. The longer one is for the ATO and will need to make another probe holder as the blank end will hold the float switch for the ATO and instead of a Calcium Reactor I will be using the "Balling" method kind of, and will be dosing Cal, Alk, MAG and whatever else the tank needs so will need another "long" probe holder for three set's of lines.

The first half of the sump is done, now just need to turn it over and start the other side.

(I forgot to mention that the tops of the baffles the corners have been routed or chamfered to take the sharp corner off. If this is not done, it won't feel good. Plus it dresses it up showing the time put into the project)

So the order in which to assemble a tank, sump or whatever is about the same. Start on one side, stand all your vertical pieces and "glue" (actually it a solvent so it softens the plastic then bonds) of if you have any dividers then that would go first, (horizontal piece that spans between the verticals) then starting on one "end" start gluing them down, making sure you have a right angle jig to keep it nice and straight and some type of spacer for your baffle spacing. (is that clear - I think I just babbled)

more to come

Edited April 23, 2010 by lemonyx

[Hamp]

looking good!

[medi]

Looks great....I need a sump. You want to build me one?

[Jimbo]

Can you explain the shims part...what are you shimming up? Is that to hold the baffles in a certain location or ? Or am I missing the point entirely, and these go around the outside of the 2 pieces that are being welded?

[prof]

I don't know about pro, but that is pretty close to how I do it.

I like your 90 degree jigs. They make assembly much easier.

Try flame polishing the edges when you get a chance. Practice on some scrap first. I use a MAPP gas torch to flame polish. It only works on the edges and will just burn a flat surface. Getting the speed right is the tricky part. You want to linger long enough for the acrylic to melt slightly and stop before it starts to burn. Just make one consistent speed pass along the edge and watch the magic! Those chamfered edges will shine like glass.

Oh, never flame polish an edge before gluing. It changes the molecular structure and will cause crazing when glued.

[prof]

I believe he is using the razors as 'pins' in place of acupuncture needles. It is a fine line between having to much and to little space between the sheets of acrylic when bonding. If it is to tight the WeldOn won't flow correctly and bubbles will form. If it is to loose then the WeldOn will run out.

The basic idea behind this type of construction is called capillary bonding (or gluing). The surface tension of the WeldOn will pull it into the space between sheets. The solvent melts both sides of the acrylic and when the alcohol in the solvent dries the acrylic solidifies into one solid piece.

Since both pieces are being melted it is actually welding, just like with metal, except chemicals do the work instead of heat.

[Jimbo]

I believe he is using the razors as 'pins' in place of acupuncture needles. It is a fine line between having to much and to little space between the sheets of acrylic when bonding. If it is to tight the WeldOn won't flow correctly and bubbles will form. If it is to loose then the WeldOn will run out.

The basic idea behind this type of construction is called capillary bonding (or gluing). The surface tension of the WeldOn will pull it into the space between sheets. The solvent melts both sides of the acrylic and when the alcohol in the solvent dries the acrylic solidifies into one solid piece.

Since both pieces are being melted it is actually welding, just like with metal, except chemicals do the work instead of heat.

That's kind of what I thought, but he had described the pins method first, so I thought it was for some other reason.

Thanks.

[lemonyx]

Looks great....I need a sump. You want to build me one?

Sure, but I'm currently in the NW but I do come down to Burton for Thanksgiving for several weeks. Might be too long for you to wait.

[lemonyx]

Can you explain the shims part...what are you shimming up? Is that to hold the baffles in a certain location or ? Or am I missing the point entirely, and these go around the outside of the 2 pieces that are being welded?

The needles are there to provide a little space, if it's too loose (think feeler gauge) then the shims are to make that space tighter. I was using the shims on the end piece to start.

Edited April 24, 2010 by lemonyx

[lemonyx]

I don't know about pro, but that is pretty close to how I do it.

I like your 90 degree jigs. They make assembly much easier.

Try flame polishing the edges when you get a chance. Practice on some scrap first. I use a MAPP gas torch to flame polish. It only works on the edges and will just burn a flat surface. Getting the speed right is the tricky part. You want to linger long enough for the acrylic to melt slightly and stop before it starts to burn. Just make one consistent speed pass along the edge and watch the magic! Those chamfered edges will shine like glass.

Oh, never flame polish an edge before gluing. It changes the molecular structure and will cause crazing when glued.

I never "flame polish" tanks or sumps, to get that polished look you gotta use elbow grease and very fine wet and dry, up to 2500 grit. Cause crazing and it you use a cleaner with ammonia it'll crack

Edited April 24, 2010 by lemonyx

[lemonyx]

I believe he is using the razors as 'pins' in place of acupuncture needles. It is a fine line between having to much and to little space between the sheets of acrylic when bonding. If it is to tight the WeldOn won't flow correctly and bubbles will form. If it is to loose then the WeldOn will run out.

The basic idea behind this type of construction is called capillary bonding (or gluing). The surface tension of the WeldOn will pull it into the space between sheets. The solvent melts both sides of the acrylic and when the alcohol in the solvent dries the acrylic solidifies into one solid piece.

Since both pieces are being melted it is actually welding, just like with metal, except chemicals do the work instead of heat.

No, the shims are used in conjunction with the needles, what you're trying to do is to make a space the same all around for capillary migration or the solvent wicking as you feed it keeping it in front of you as you move the applicator bottle. Then after you finish applying the solvent, then you hurry back and pull all the needles then push the shims a little tighter so the bottom and the side meet up. If you used too much solvent, you'll get a "blob" line that looks like bubbles but is on the inside and not on the seam.

hth

[lemonyx]

looking good!

Thanks

[lemonyx]

The first end piece is on, the baffles

now the other end piece

The needles are only used for the "outside" or parameter of the tank or sump in this case.

Now what I have is a "U"(end pieces)with finger in between (baffles). Now is the time to ready the other "side" of the tank/sump.

The paper is removed and it's slid under, then the finished part is turned over and aligned onto the bottom piece. (I hope that is clear, as mud probably)

The first assembly with the end's and baffles are just turned upside down on to the next piece, lined up and "glued" on.

now the needles and shims are used to line up the "joints for gluing.

Now the "bottom of the sump.

So the finished "carcass" has a front, back and the baffles, just needs the bottom and then the top.

Bottom first

I use a needle every 6" and a shim if needed - all around the parameter of the sump. This take a little time and can mean bubbles or a nice clear seam.

When you are ready, apply the glue on one side, go back and pull the needles and push the shim in a little, you can see the solvent being squeezed out

so you have to stop or you'll get a "dry joint"

Repeat for the next 3 sides, add a little weight on top and let it dry

The top is next - has to be routed and have not decided on the shape of the opening as yet.

[+Hydro]

Thanks for posting all of this, I was just about to build a sump for our new tank.

[lemonyx]

OK, the top, I didn't take any pix's of cutting it out and routing - got lazy I had to really think ahead and decided where i was gonna to have everything sit in the sump.

The probe holders, dosing line holders and the ATO float switch are on

But getting ahead of my self:

that's the top, sitting on the bottom getting shimmed up and ready for "gluing". Remember the needles are there to keep a constant gap all around the parameter of the tank, the razors (or shims) are to close up that gap so the needle slides in and out with a little friction.

Presto, the top of the sump with a 2 3/8" Euro brace

These two holes are for the skimmer pump silencer and filter (there's floss and charcoal in the tube)

or can be a convenient place for 2 cup holders and are toward the front of the sump

These 2 smaller holes are for wire management, the probes, heater cords and if enough room the dosing lines (might have to make another one for those)

and these are toward the back of the sump

It's a PITA to drain water from the sump and clean up the junk on the bottom, learned this from my current sump so i will be adding this

I'm sure not too many reefers have a drain on their sumps, mine will

It'll just span the skimmer area and return area as the far right side is the fuge and don't want to bother that area.

Almost finished, just have to route the edges, chamfer the edges and I'm done. Corners on acrylic can be "sharp" very sharp I've cut myself many a time on a corner so now everything I do the corners are rounded over and edges chamfered with the router.

[lemonyx]

The filter/silencer is this thing I made for my current sump and skimmer. Those Siccie (sp) pump draw a lot of air and are noisy.

just a 1 1/2" PVC with 2 end caps, one of them drilled and the other end fitted with a JG fitting for easy removal

[prof]

Crazing is generally caused by a temperature difference. Flame polishing cold acrylic could cause a large enough temperature differential to cause crazing. It can also occur if you use alcohol or ammonia to clean acrylic. Applying weld-on after flame polishing will do the same thing. As the alcohol in the solvent or cleaner evaporates it cools the acrylic to fast.

I have flame polish many tanks without any problems. I have also used it to dress up older sumps and tanks that have seen better days.

[lemonyx]

Well the sump is finally finished. Had a nice day with little rain, got the sump routed and edges chamferd. Added 2 media reactors to the return area along with a heater rack

that pvc is where the heaters will sit - those pvc elbows are where the drain is

[prof]

I really like it. Very well put together. I can't wait to see it in use.