Jump to content

RO/DI system


ejaustin

Recommended Posts

Hi, everyone,

Well, I've finally moved into my house. blob7.gif That means it's time to start getting serious about getting a good infrastructure for my tanks. I think the first thing I'll do is set up an RO/DI system.

I think I want these features:

- in-line TDS (probably before and after DI)

- the ability to tap post-RO, pre-DI for human consumptiom

I don't know what I need as far as capacity. (I expect to have a 145 gallon tank, a 75 or 90 gallon tank, and I will keep the 29 gallon tank I currently have to use as a QT.) I've also heard something about clear cylinders that I think help you know when it's getting to be close to time to change a filter or maybe it's the DI membrane... not clear about that.

What else should I consider? Are there any brands to steer clear of? Is there anything like a standard size for the filters that will give me more options of vendors when it's time to get new filters?

ej

PS Ben, please check your PMs. I need to make arrangements to get the tank to my house.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing you need to consider is it's capacity (usually expressed in GPD, or gallons per day). Keep in mine that means how much it will produce in a 24 hour period. Also, my experience has been it DOES NOT produce the amount of gallons it says its rated for. It's not an issue, because I keep several 5 and 6 gal jugs topped off that I use for my water changes. As soon as I empty one, I begion refilling it, and then rotate the jubs I'm working from. Not optimal, but works for now. I do have a larger Coralife one I will get set-up and working one day, but for now this works.

This may not work because you are going to have several tanks (I have 2 90G's, but have decided that will change eventually to one larger one. In my opinion, you do an equal amount of work for each tank, which at times gets tiresome and stressfull), but you may want to consider whether you will want to be able to set up the RO/DI unit to go directly into an auto-top off system (also another thing I'm dreaming about for some day. I'm tired of toting buckets.).

Stephen

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been reading thousands of posts about RO/DI units.

The sum of it all reads. Buy Dow FilmTech 75gpd membranes. They have the best rejection rates. If you need more flow per day get another membrane housing and a second Filmtech membrane. The second thing I've added to my personal list s that you might wish to remove the DI unit and mount it vertically. This improves the contact time as the water will not just flow over the resin as it lays flat in the housing.

I've found Buckeye field supply to be the friendliest RO company handsdown. I don't care if it's online or in person. I've seen this company walk hundreds of people through their RO units, including myself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im using a Spectrapure Plus 60gpd with a tested rejection rate of 98.5 and Im very happy with it, a little pricey though. Rejection rates will lessen with more gpd, a typical 100gpd membrane will have rejection rate of around 90, so Id stick with a 75gpd or less. And I second Buckeyefield, Ive been doing business with Russ for years.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Thanks for the support folks.

Filmtec 50 and 75 gpd membranes are spec'ed at 250ppm feedwater at 77 degrees F and 50 psi, and both have a stabilized salt rejection rate of 98%.

The Filmtec 100 gpd is spec'ed at 250 ppm feedwater at 77 degrees F and 50 psi, and has a stabilized salt rejection rate of 90%.

We have a 150 gpd membrane now that is spec'ed at 250 ppm feedwater at 77 degrees F and 60 psi, and has a stabilized salt rejection rate of 98%.

If you don't have conditions that match the factory spec's (few do), we have a calculator on our site that allows to to calculate how much your membrane should produce given your conditions (temperature and pressure).

Russ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ive got a question. i did no research on ro units when i bought mine, and i lost the papers for it years back. its a spectrapure 60gpd MP/DI.... first of all, whats MP/DI stand for? i know what the di part is, but whats the mp part? and which blocks should i use to replace these old ones? i know that the di is a color change, but thats all i know...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

and which blocks should i use to replace these old ones? i know that the di is a color change, but thats all i know...

Assuming you are on city water, and you don't have chloramines:

a 1 micron sediment filter

a 0.6 micron 20,000 gallon carbon block

and a refillable DI resin cartridge with color changing resin

Russ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...