KarenM Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 My tank is about 3 months old. I cycled it with Bio-Spira. Up until about 2 weeks ago I had only the generic flourescent lights that come with the black plastic hood, then I got some PC lights with actrinics. I've been burning them 8-10 hours per day, after building up to that amount the first week. A few days ago I noticed a little algae on the large turbo snails and some on the powerheads, etc. A couple of days ago I saw what I thought looked like some little shadows on the sandbed. Today I get home and there's brown algae on the sand and algae beginning on the glass. It seems to be increasing really fast. Should I do something about it (if so, what?) or is this a natural progression because of the lights, and if so, will it go away? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmanning Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 Karen, The type of algae that you see is actually called diatoms. Check out the link below: http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/algaecontrol/a/aa091100.htm Cindy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headless_donkey Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 There is now more light on your tank. This means there is more "photo energy" to use. You corals will like it, but so does the algae. It is a natural progression. I would suggest do small frequent water changes. If you are feeding the tank, try a little less food. Maybe try bumping up the clean up crew. Give it time it will go away. Don't be afraid to siphon out the offending algae during water changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KarenM Posted July 7, 2007 Author Share Posted July 7, 2007 There is now more light on your tank. This means there is more "photo energy" to use. You corals will like it, but so does the algae. It is a natural progression. I would suggest do small frequent water changes. If you are feeding the tank, try a little less food. Maybe try bumping up the clean up crew. Give it time it will go away. Don't be afraid to siphon out the offending algae during water changes. Thanks, both of you. I guess I need to step up my water changes 9I currently change 25% every 2 weeks), and cut down on feeding. I'm sure I'm guilty of overfeeding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmanning Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 Karen, Where does your water source come from? Do you have an RO/DI unit? Cindy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C_Malin Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 what are your water perameters? I noticed when my KH was low around 7 dkh that stuff grew, try incressing your KH to 9-12 dkh it should clear that stuff up. I use b-ionic or you seachem both work very good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sushi Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 (edited) Most likely its just the natural progression of your tank, but if you're really worried about it I'd check the phosphate levels first, there seems to be a lot of it in Austin tap water. Don't forget if you're using the cheap phosphate kit from API "0" is really closer to 0.5 and it only has to be at 0.2 to start affecting your tank. Headless Donkey is right about adding to your cleaning crew. I'd get a small assortment of snails (different breeds do well at different temperatures and in different tanks, so you'll want to test them all out and see which ones work best for you) and maybe a Conch. Once they get bigger they won't do much for your glass and rocks, but the do a bang up job on the sand bed, and really seem to go after red slime. -Kat Edited July 7, 2007 by Sushi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KarenM Posted July 7, 2007 Author Share Posted July 7, 2007 Most likely its just the natural progression of your tank, but if you're really worried about it I'd check the phosphate levels first, there seems to be a lot of it in Austin tap water. Don't forget if you're using the cheap phosphate kit from API "0" is really closer to 0.5 and it only has to be at 0.2 to start affecting your tank. Headless Donkey is right about adding to your cleaning crew. I'd get a small assortment of snails (different breeds do well at different temperatures and in different tanks, so you'll want to test them all out and see which ones work best for you) and maybe a Conch. Once they get bigger they won't do much for your glass and rocks, but the do a bang up job on the sand bed, and really seem to go after red slime.-KatThanks, Kat. I saw your reply to my coco worm post but I think I'd better get a grip on my algae before adding anything else. I have a 40 gal tall tank. I have about 5-6 large turbo snails, 4 nas. snails, 4-5 hermit crabs, and 2 larch conch snails. They usually only surface when at feeding time, but I can see their "trails" often.I'm in Georgetown and using RO water. As for phosphates, I don't even know what that is. I'm new to SW and learning as I go.Karen,Where does your water source come from? Do you have an RO/DI unit?CindyHi, Cindy. I'm using RO water from a store called H20 to Go. I do 12 gal water changes, and come to think of it, I've done the water changes weekly for the last 2 weeks because my nitrates were high. I put the 12 gal of RO into a trash can with the salt (IO), buffer, & a powerhead overnight, then do the change. I got the "changing equip", buffer, and the lights all about the same time. And it was about that time the algae began. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sushi Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 Thanks, Kat. I saw your reply to my coco worm post but I think I'd better get a grip on my algae before adding anything else. I have a 40 gal tall tank. I have about 5-6 large turbo snails, 4 nas. snails, 4-5 hermit crabs, and 2 larch conch snails. They usually only surface when at feeding time, but I can see their "trails" often.I'm in Georgetown and using RO water. As for phosphates, I don't even know what that is. I'm new to SW and learning as I go.Hi, Cindy. I'm using RO water from a store called H20 to Go. I do 12 gal water changes, and come to think of it, I've done the water changes weekly for the last 2 weeks because my nitrates were high. I put the 12 gal of RO into a trash can with the salt (IO), buffer, & a powerhead overnight, then do the change. I got the "changing equip", buffer, and the lights all about the same time. And it was about that time the algae began. That sounds, or looks rather, like a pretty well rounded collection of snails. Phosphate is one of the many minerals you'll get to know when keeping a reef tank. I could go into a long and confusing description of it, but all you really need to know is that phosphates feed algae. The good news is its an easy problem to fix. All you have to do is add some phosbuster in a media bag to your filter or sump. The other thing you'll need to do is test your source water. This is sort of contraversal since you get your water through a store, and I'm not saying anything bad about any store! Its not unheard of for RO systems, although one of your best bets, to have issues with the constant flux we get here locally from our tap. Certain areas are better than others about this. The other thing I'm going to recommend is if at all possible try to avoid doing a water change after a heavy rain. A lot of ppl have come to the store and mentioned noticing more Phosphates after it rains. Here is a good source if you'd like to know more... phosphates -Kat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KarenM Posted July 7, 2007 Author Share Posted July 7, 2007 That sounds, or looks rather, like a pretty well rounded collection of snails. Phosphate is one of the many minerals you'll get to know when keeping a reef tank. I could go into a long and confusing description of it, but all you really need to know is that phosphates feed algae. The good news is its an easy problem to fix. All you have to do is add some phosbuster in a media bag to your filter or sump. The other thing you'll need to do is test your source water. This is sort of contraversal since you get your water through a store, and I'm not saying anything bad about any store! Its not unheard of for RO systems, although one of your best bets, to have issues with the constant flux we get here locally from our tap. Certain areas are better than others about this. The other thing I'm going to recommend is if at all possible try to avoid doing a water change after a heavy rain. A lot of ppl have come to the store and mentioned noticing more Phosphates after it rains. Here is a good source if you'd like to know more... phosphates -Kat [/quote It just occurred to me that also a couple of weeks ago I bought a Sea Apple (didn't research before I bought it) and I've been putting in Kent Marine Micro-Vert every few days to feed it. Could this raise the phosphates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sushi Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 Its definitely a possibility, you never want to feed a phyto has much as they say to. -Kat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KarenM Posted July 7, 2007 Author Share Posted July 7, 2007 Its definitely a possibility, you never want to feed a phyto has much as they say to.-Kat Thanks for your info. I'm not going to keep the apple. After doing the reseach POST-purchase, I'm just plain scared of it. I don't want to take it back to the store where I bought it because they'll just sell it to someone else. It's really beautiful, and I don't want it to die. I thought I'd try to talk Captain Bob into taking it at his store. Does Horizon take trade-ins? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sushi Posted July 8, 2007 Share Posted July 8, 2007 ya, most independents will. -Kat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedude Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 Just to chime in, diatom algae is comprised of 90% silicate molecules, therefore your problem is probably silicate and not phosphate. What kind of water are you using, and what kind of salt? Silicate isn't normally a mineral added with food and comes from your source water or salt. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KarenM Posted July 11, 2007 Author Share Posted July 11, 2007 Just to chime in, diatom algae is comprised of 90% silicate molecules, therefore your problem is probably silicate and not phosphate. What kind of water are you using, and what kind of salt? Silicate isn't normally a mineral added with food and comes from your source water or salt.John Hi, John. I use purchased RO water and up until my last water change I was using IO salt. Fortunatley, the algae hasn't gotten worse. I cleaned up a small part of it off the sand and cleaned the front glass and one side glass. I cut down on food, specifically spirulina cubes.It hasn't come back and hasn't gotten any worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingfish Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 I am going to assume that the H20 to go place is the one on the way to Sun City. Maybe Judefish can chime in on how crappy her tanks looked when she used water from there. We checked the total dissolved solids on the water from that store and it was around 100 ppm !!!! Which is not much better than tap water. I would buy an RO unit or stock up with water from one of the fish stores when you are in town. Trust me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KarenM Posted July 11, 2007 Author Share Posted July 11, 2007 I am going to assume that the H20 to go place is the one on the way to Sun City. Maybe Judefish can chime in on how crappy her tanks looked when she used water from there. We checked the total dissolved solids on the water from that store and it was around 100 ppm !!!! Which is not much better than tap water. I would buy an RO unit or stock up with water from one of the fish stores when you are in town. Trust me. Yep, that's the place. I was referred there by another reefer and thought they were OK. I'm not all that familiar with RO, and just assumed RO water was the same. My problem is there's no LFS even remotely near me. I've only got a 40 gal tank and not real interested in hooking up my own RO unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GKarshens Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 You can get one for around $100. The $.25 a gallon not to mention the hassle would add up to that quickly. If you are interested in the long term success of your tank you might want to reconsider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KarenM Posted July 11, 2007 Author Share Posted July 11, 2007 You can get one for around $100. The $.25 a gallon not to mention the hassle would add up to that quickly. If you are interested in the long term success of your tank you might want to reconsider.I may end up doing that after all. I saw one on craigslist for $40, however I have no idea how to hook one up. It really wasn't a problem until the bad news about where I was buying it. I just recently purchased my "system" of trash can, additional powerhead, longer hose, etc. I may end up doing that after all. I saw one on craigslist for $40, however I have no idea how to hook one up. It really wasn't a problem until the bad news about where I was buying it. I just recently purchased my "system" of trash can, additional powerhead, longer hose, etc. Well, after a second look that one seems to be missing parts. The others I've seen have been $300 or more. I just recently bought a softener from Rayne Soft and they've got their eye out for a reconditioned one for me, but it's still more than I can afford. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GKarshens Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 I got my 100g per day unit for $140 at www.melevsreef.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedude Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 Karen, Like others have said, the water at that place when we tested it was just plain terrible. All your algae problems are stemming from your source water and any supplements or additives would simply be a waste of money. Look into the RO/DI units that Gabriel is recommending or at the least, get some 5 gallon jugs from Walmart and fill them at your LFS of choice. RO/DI water usually runs between $.20-$.25 a gallon and with a few water changes and time, your algae problem should dissapear. Good luck and at least you have a definitive source for your problem algae! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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