chrisfowler99 Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 A hole in the wall is going to happen! Now I just have to figure out how...so...let the Sketchuping based questions begin... I did some measurements and located the approximate stud positions and then created a roughly framed opening in the position I'm planning on. From the hallway side: From the office side: Somewhat obviously, the RED pieces are the additions. Everything else would be as it was. Now...what I'm hoping to do is minimize the amount of drywall I have to cut away on each side. From the hallway side: From the office side: I plan to tie the tank stand into the studs in the wall, which does actually bring up another issue. The carpet in the office. I am allowed to put a hole in the wall. I am not allowed to cut away the carpet, which means I have fun leveling it front to back. It also means that I have to build the stand so it avoids the carpet tack strip near the wall. I'm reasonably certain that the tack strip is going to be close enough tot he studs that I will not be able to fit a full 2x4 in there at the ground. So...what I'm greatly in need of is: First, someone to explain to me why my framing is bad and what I really need to do. Second, someone to assure me that I'm pretty close on the amount of drywall I will need to remove. Third, someone to help me come up with some stand ideas (I do plan on enclosing it as a cabinet) that will attach cleanly to the wall. Jeremy? Mike (the caferacer one ), You guys are two of the "someone"s I'm thinking of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroadodge Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 that looks good. just like that will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caferacermike Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Your horizontal boards should attach all the way to the next stud. Your top horizontal should be 2x6 on it's side with 1/2" plywood sandwiched between yet another 2x6" stud. The 1.5" + .5" + 1.5" = 3.5", the same as a stud. You want the 6" part going up and down. You need to put "jack" studs in to support the beam you just made. Nail or screw those into the studs that the beam will attach to, cut them just short enough for the beam to sit on them. Then tie everything together. This prevents the beam from ever being able to slip down. Then do another set of jack studs at the height you are planning to support another beam that will run just under the tank. Then go back and frame the sides up as you need them. Wish I could make something on goggle real quick but don't have the time right now. I found this online, You'll see how the jack stud actually supports the beams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisfowler99 Posted August 9, 2010 Author Share Posted August 9, 2010 Pretty sure I know what you're saying. My original drawing had the horizontal boards going all the way to the next stud...and then I realized how much extra drywall I'd have to pull to do that and I was trying to avoid it. The 2x6 header I didn't know about...and that's pulling more drywall... Time to modify my drawing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisfowler99 Posted August 9, 2010 Author Share Posted August 9, 2010 Ok...some updates: Front (hall) frame: Back (office) frame: Back (office) full wall: Man that's pulling a lot of extra drywall that will have to be replaced. The question is...will I need to actually pull past the next studs to secure the horizontal pieces in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caferacermike Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Drywall is nothing to pull and repair. Don't fret. If you have to pull a little, then a little more does not make it that much bigger of a project. In fact you can benefit more by pulling off full sheets instead of having a bunch of patches coming together, not sure if that makes sense or not. I'd rather remove 8' of rock, 2x 4' sheets, then to try and scab in a 12" piece and blend it in to a piece that is already next to a seam. Get it? That way you will still end up with the same number of seams as you started with. I sure wouldn't mind riding up to explain a little better and meet up with you later this week. You really got the framing "nailed" down.. Sorry had to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caferacermike Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Worse case scenario would be to utilize your first drawings but make sure to run new studs all the way to the plates and tie them in, then complete your build per your drawing but with headers and jack plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisfowler99 Posted August 9, 2010 Author Share Posted August 9, 2010 Drywall is nothing to pull and repair. Don't fret. If you have to pull a little, then a little more does not make it that much bigger of a project. What's sad is that I'm not actually paranoid about pulling the drywall and putting new stuff up (though I've never done it). I just don't like the idea of having to put up a texture to match the existing knock-down texture. You really got the framing "nailed" down.. Sorry had to. Boo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroadodge Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 WOW...the header is perfect if its a TRUE load bearing wall for the roof. If its not then theres no reason to add the extra strength. If there is no weight above the wall then just blocking the stud with a 2x4 will be fine. But then again this is your project, Mikes way is the Frammers way of diong it which is done all the time. If that wall doesnt support the roof then personaly i wouldnt add the extra work. Not tryn to BASH u Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caferacermike Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Nah is cool, and you know what? The sheetrock will actually distribute the load and help keep the wall from bowing. Being as that if you have to use a 2x4 anyways, a couple of extra dollars now on 2x6 will PREVENT any troubles later. Remember my house is sinking into a hole because some builders figured what they were doing was "good enough". See ya gotta keep in mind that a 2x4 on it's face will warp eventually, by creating a header (especially true if you purposefully face your grains) it will prevent any bowing or twisting. If you were to reframe the wall over the tank using metal studs then I wouldn't worry about adding some sort of header. You'd probably make out fine using 2x4's sandwiched as your header as well, I'm just considering the length you may be spanning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caferacermike Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 I just don't like the idea of having to put up a texture to match the existing knock-down texture. You really got the framing "nailed" down.. Sorry had to. Boo! Jackass. Matching texture is near impossible anyways, you stand a better chance the more you do. Small repairs will always stand out way more than larger repairs. One thing you may consider is a level 5 finish first. You go through and mud/tape/mud/sand/finish as always but then using a very large "knife" you smooth out the entire wall. If it's a small room the one contrasting wall might look really good. If not, then you can texture over that to make it look like the rest of the room without having to "blend" it. However I recommend you skip the texture process and find someone that can do that work for you. The rest is gravy train. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caferacermike Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 You know honestly, from what I can see... Just the studs, sheetrock, mud, tape, screws etc.. should only run you between $200-300 to create the hole. Your stand and everything else will be whatever you decide. You might drop $100 for someone to come out and blend your texture for you. I even feel the $200 might be high. I think I see the need for about: 12 2x4's @ about $2 each. $25 2x 2x6 @ $6 each $12 Box of 3" screws $9 Tube of liquid nails $4 saw blade $14 4x 4x8 x1/2 Sheetrock @$7 each $28 box of 2" screws for rock $7 Box of mud $12 2x roll of paper tape @ $4 each $8 Plastic to protect floor $20 That's only roughly $150 without buying beer and after taxes. If'n you are extra cheap like myself, consider buying 2x4x16 and cut them in half. They are much cheaper that way. I do that for all my projects. There is still plenty 0 cash for wire, back boxes, switches, plates, etc for custom circuits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroadodge Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 and to make the header u will have to put a piece of OSB(board) in between the 2 so that the width is that of a 2x4. It would be a sandwhich--->> (2x6-OSB-2x6) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisfowler99 Posted August 10, 2010 Author Share Posted August 10, 2010 Trying to picture my wife's face if I were to pull down all of the drywall on the office side of that wall. LOL I know what you mean about being easier to "blend" I'd I do more of the wall, though. If I pull all the way to the side walls I still shouldn't need more than two sheets (less than 4' on each side). As long as I don't pull all the way to the ceiling. Thinking about 4x8 sheets of drywall and the 9' ceilings in that room suddenly makes me feel sorry for the builders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caferacermike Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 Oh you can get sheetrock in 10' lengths. No problem. J, I said that in post #3, my first one. I just didn't include it in the price cause you don't need the whole sheet. They generally have cutoffs at the hardware store that will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroadodge Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 Oh you can get sheetrock in 10' lengths. No problem. J, I said that in post #3, my first one. I just didn't include it in the price cause you don't need the whole sheet. They generally have cutoffs at the hardware store that will work. sorry over lookd, I wanna help with this one, HOE DEPOT and LOWES have some cool stuff in a spray can (texture) that is pretty ez to match texture. I had 2 holes in the wall in my living room and u cant even tell after i patched them and re-textured they were ever there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisfowler99 Posted August 10, 2010 Author Share Posted August 10, 2010 sorry over lookd, I wanna help with this one, HOE DEPOT and LOWES have some cool stuff in a spray can (texture) that is pretty ez to match texture. I had 2 holes in the wall in my living room and u cant even tell after i patched them and re-textured they were ever there. They have spray-on texture that can pull off a knock-down finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
don duncan Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 Im sure Jason in day time class can help you with the texture. He says the spray can is way more expensive than using mud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisfowler99 Posted August 10, 2010 Author Share Posted August 10, 2010 Im sure Jason in day time class can help you with the texture. He says the spray can is way more expensive than using mud. Mariah actually pulled off that texture at our old house after stripping wallpaper. I remember it being a pain in the butt for her. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroadodge Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 sorry over lookd, I wanna help with this one, HOE DEPOT and LOWES have some cool stuff in a spray can (texture) that is pretty ez to match texture. I had 2 holes in the wall in my living room and u cant even tell after i patched them and re-textured they were ever there. They have spray-on texture that can pull off a knock-down finish? My walls are knock dwn also, u have to be inventive on how u spray it, then if its to bumpy, u take a spreader and flatten it out. If you dont wanna hire someone to do it its an option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisfowler99 Posted August 10, 2010 Author Share Posted August 10, 2010 Now I just need to finish cleaning the office and get a couple more tank quotes back so I can get moving on finalizing tank plans so I know exactly how big the hole in the wall needs to be...and when it needs to be all "fixed up". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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