JimD
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Posts posted by JimD
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can some one please turn me right side up?
Here ya go, I'll do this one for ya...
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Thanks, Marine depot and Reefgeek don't have the combination of bulbs I'm looking for, so far it looks like Hellolights has the best deal, theres a 10% discount coupon available online.
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Best place to purchase lighting, ie: halide, vho, t-5ho..
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Nice job at the helm, those things are a blast to fly! Being in a gym with no trees helps. lol
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Its a good idea to gut load live brine before feeding, not much nutritional value on their own.
Gut Loading
As alluded to earlier, adult brine shrimp and even 24hr old (instar II) baby brine shrimp are quite nutritionally deficient. If your fish are fed straight up adult brine shrimp exclusively and nothing else, they will die of malnutrition. Hence it is important to supplement the brine shrimp with something else more nutritionally suitable for life. That is why feed your fish with a variety of foods while only feeding brine shrimp as an occasional treat. However, in many cases i have to admit that the above is simply not possible. This is usually the case when purchasing wild caught fish that have yet to be weaned off wild foods, or when your fish (for various reasons) go off their feed and refuse to eat processed foods, or when transitioning fry from BBS to larger foods. Whatever the case, it turns out that brine shrimp is all that your fish will eat and you have no choice but to feed them that.
One (partial) solution is to boost the nutrition of the brine shrimp before feeding your fish. As it turns out, Brine shrimp are indescriminate filter feeders which makes them very suitable for gut loading before feeding. Basically the concept is that you feed the brine shimp super nutritious food until their "GUTS" are "LOADED" full of nutritional goodness. These gut loaded shrimp are then fed to your fish before they have a chance to poop away all that they have been gut loaded with.
Besides gut loading with food, you can gut load with medicines. A lot of aquarium meds nowadays come in pill or powder form. You can gut load your brine shimp with these and then QUICKLY feed your fish with them. Emphasis on the 'QUICKLY' because chances are if you wait too long, your brine shrimp will probably have OD'd on meds and are on their way to happyland.
Gut loading is easy. You may gut load with pretty much anything that is small and particulate in nature which is easily suspended in the water column. All that means is that it has the consistency of flour, which is made out of many tiny small particles that when mixed into water, doesn't immediately settle. This suspension is key to gut loading because brine shrimp pretty much swim aimlessly in the water column, continuously gathering up bits of food with its legs and transfering the food to thier mouths. Hence the more stuff there is suspended in the water, the faster they will eat and the quicker you will be able to complete gut loading them. When you notice that their digestive tract is full of whatever you are trying to gut load, its time to feed your fish.
So what should you gut load with? The simplest and most available things to use are your normal pet store brand fish flake or pelletized granules. You need to grind these up into a very (VERY!!) fine powder which you can then use to gut load your brine shrimp. I have found that the best way to achieve this is to go out to your local pharmacy (or better ASIAN pharmacy) and pick up a little mini motar and pestle. It is a small investment that goes a long way. I find that with these, you can get more of the flake / granules much smaller than blenders or food processors can. Besides, they are a snap to clean and you don't have to worry about having fish food in your people food kitchen appliance.
There are also plenty of speciality products out in the market which are perfect for gut loading. Here's a partial list : Spirulina Powder, boiled egg yolk, Natu-Rose (astaxanthin), Phytoplankton (Microalgae), Algamac, Vitachem*, Selcon* to name a few. Each product has its specific uses, so do your research to find out which product best suits your purpose.
* Here's a note on gut loading with a liquid suppliment or liquid medication. Although brine shrimp are capable of liquid suppliment uptake, they are not very efficient. Liquids seem to pass through them quicker than solids. This means that if it takes a while for your fish to eat them, they will have passed the liquids or have the liquids washed away from thier bodies. I have discovered a better way. Soak some powdered fish food (described above) in the liquid suppliment and allow 15 min for the fish food to soak up the liquid suppliment. Then feed this to the brine shirmp. They will eat the fish food + liquids and can then be fed to the fish.
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Cool!
"The Featherstar Shrimp (Periclimenes amboinensis) is a commensal shrimp species that belongs to the family Pontoniinae. The commensal crinoid shrimps are difficulty to identify from one another without microscopic examination. Using a photograph to identify this species is not 100% accurate and hence the species illustrated could possibly be one of its close relations such as Periclimenes ceratophthalmus and Periclimenes cornutus. The colouration of this species will match its host crinoid and it normally has some horizontal banding. The body of this shrimp is elongated with thin and long claws. It is a tropical shrimp species found on crinoids throughout the western Pacific region and has been recorded in Australia, Papua New Guinea, Indonesia and Thailand. It is often found living on the featherstars Oxycomanthus bennetti and Comanthina noblis. The Featherstar Shrimp (Periclimenes amboinensis) grows to a maximum length of approximately 2cm. "
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I'd love to see the surge device, probably an older Carlson surge bucket. They simulate wave action in the ocean kinda like a Tunze wave box. I used these way back in the day when there were very few surge devices available commercialy and they were the product of several diy projects.. They work really well if you have the room.
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Double
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Can you post a pic of what exactly youre working with? Might need two sets of chanel locks.
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Have you tried twisting with some chanel locks? If its not glued it should come loose.
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Chick has some pretty large "jugs"...
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Most carnivours wont congregate on the glass.
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Didn't include any temp swing either. With the onset of cooler weather, this can be an issue.
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It's that time of year again. It is getting cold outside and it is time to heat the tank. I am wondering what the best placement would be for the heater. I am thinking about putting it in the overflow box. Would that be okay?
Anywhere theres a reasonable ammount of flow, if you can hide it, all the better..
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Problem is, I dont think many people use the stuff. No reason to turn off the skimmer when dosing calcium.
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Kent reactor sold... Good luck dan...
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Thanks...
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Not a TLF but I have one of these if you're interested.
Please let me know asap, I have another interested party...
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What brand is it? Sometimes the manufacturer will repair them for free or very little depending on how old it is... Whats the problem?
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Not a TLF but I have one of these if you're interested.
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Or/and they have Euro bracing...
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Depending on glass thickness, width of the longest panels and hight, it can be done successfully. I run a 3' tank with no brace no problem.
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Great question..... There's a lot of choices when it comes to lighting... First thing, buy once, buy smart. Fluorescent is a great way to go, very versitile and extremely expandable. T-5's inparticular. If you plan to eventually get into corals, most are gonna require more light than say a fish only tank. Metal halide/T-5 combo is very popular as well as metal halide/VHO, meaning Very High output T-12 fuorescent bulbs usually actinic (blue) in color to help make the colors 'glow'... Just do some research and ask questions...
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Leave it alone? Give it time to settle in, dont force feed it and allow it to get used to its new surroundings...
Dosing Kalk vs. Dosing separate chems
in Reef Keeping
Posted
Aqualifter pumps are a cool, the thing with them is this.... They need to be in line as a pusher and not a puller. They need to be pushing water into an air tight chamber forcing a saturated effluent out, otherwise the the pump will fail. A pre filter like a good floss helps.