Jump to content

Aquadoc

Members
  • Posts

    73
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Aquadoc

  1. For ALL photos taken of aquarium life through glass you want to get as close as possibe to the glass when shooting and ALWAYS use manual focus. You'll be suprised that the camera will actually focus on the glass.

    This is a statement that should be looked at since you DO NOT have to ALWAYS manual focus. Yes if you are far enough from the tank then the sensor WILL pick up the glass. But if you are close enough to tthe tank the sensor shouldn't have a problem.

    Now if you want to do all of this through the camera or through software you be prepared to lose a lot of quality in your photo. You can never only use software for a perfect image, but will always need it for one.

    Why would you lose A LOT of quality by using the camera software or any other software. Correct me if I am wrong, but the purpose of a RAW file is just that. The image is in it's RAW format, and it is the photographers responsibility to adjust the photo accordingly. Just like a Film shooting photographer would do if he needed to make adjustments to the film that he is processing.

    Regardless of the method you use you will want to adjust the white balance of your camera according to your manual to help correct the image, OR you can do what I do and shoot in RAW and adjust the white balance through software.

    You always have to remember that detal not captured in the initial image weather it be underexposed or overexposed will never show up, and no software will ever be able to bring it back.

    This statement is like a double standard. In the previous statement you stated that using software would degrade your image. But then you state here that you would use software to adjust your white balance. I have had several pictures that were way over exposed, and by using Adoe Lightroom you can bring the exposure down, and use the recovery option to bring back a good amount of detail. Works for me.

    Bottom line is a lens will not make a good photograph, it will make a good photograph better. To maketake a good photograph you will need knowledge on how to do that through your camera settings (Shutter speed, Aperture, and ISO). Different lenses allow you to adjust these settings differently.

    A good lens WILL make a good photograph. A good lens will correct chromatic aberations, comas, glare, and many other features, as well as higher contrasts, and better color retention. Also good lens will also give better Bokeh, or Depth of Field, and sharper pictures corner to corner, as well as channel MORE light to the sensor,due to the fact that most good/higher end lenses have a bigger aperature, than normal. Good lenses will prevent the photographer from sitting at his PC/Mac and spending more time editing his photos than what it took to shoot the photos. There is a plethora reasons why camera manufacturers make these high end lens. IF there wasn't any difference then they wouldn't make them...

    Have fun and good luck and the best way to learn is to fail and to try again until you get it right.

    Thank GOD for digital cameras, because this method would be super expensive to do with film..

  2. I use the Canon EF ƒ/3.5L 180mm Macro to get 1:1 pictures of objects that are in the back of the tank since the 180mm Macro lens has such a LARGE working distance @ 1:1. If the objects that you are trying to shoot @ 1:1 are close enough the I would use the Canon EF ƒ/2.8L IS MACRO. It all depends on the subject, distance, etc. I also like wide-angle macro pics as well (eg: Canon EF 35mm ƒ/1.4, with a 24mm extension tube.). They all give different results.

  3. What's your secret?As Johnny5 says "need more input!"
    My secret is "Patience". Rushing up on a insect isn't going to be promising. Take your time composing the shot and take several of the same shot, butt with suttle changes to the settings(Ex: changing aperature, shutter speed, using flash, not using flash, correcting the white balnce, etc.) till you find the picture that you are trying to achiveAlso a larger Depth of Field usualy helps while using a macro lens.Here are some more. Enjoy!More

    post-8-1188260105_thumb.jpg

    post-8-1188260236_thumb.jpg

  4. ORP

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Oxidation reduction potential, expressed in millivolts, is a measure of the oxidizing capacity present in water.

  5. I thought a ph of 7 give or take was considered neutral. I have always drank my R.O water.

    They had a thing on the news the other day about how bad it was about drinking faucet water. I forgot what chemical was too prevalent butt it was deffinately faucet water, and it was something to do with affecting teeth. I think the chemical was flouride.

    Reverse Osmosis (R.O.) is one of the most convenient and economical methods of effectively reducing unwanted minerals in your drinking water. Drinking water treated by R.O. can be improved far beyond what filters alone are able to achieve.

    Reverse Osmosis is the process by which water molecules are forced, by water pressure, through a semi permeable membrane. Most of the impurities and other unwanted minerals are carried to the drain while the refined water is routed to a special reservoir.

  6. I also got mine about a year ago and the stuff that they remove compared to a normal toothbrush in awsome.

    Not to mention that it feels like you just gave your whole mouth a message! blob7.gif

    The first week or two it is wierd will the vibration and all butt you get used to it and then start to enjoy it.

    I would go with one if you already haven't planned on getting one.

  7. I would use Salifert kh test kit. They seem fairly priced and are usually real accurate. Or you can use the Tetra kh testt kits.. Most LFS carry this and is relatively cheap say like 10$.

    Hope this helps.

  8. Anyone else keeping any Dendrophyllia?

    Just curious. Just wanted to see what kind of success rate they have.

    So far I have been feeding them everyday I come home from work.

    If keeping any please post some pics if you can.

    Thanks!

    Here are a few of mine.

    Dendrophylia1.jpg

    Just fed them:

    Dendrophylia2.jpg

    GOING....

    Dendrophylia3.jpg

    GONE!

    Dendrophylia4.jpg

  9. BUy each one, then you know you will be happy...... LOL.... Just jokeing.

    I would get one that is controlable for sure. That way you have more options than just plugging it in. Say the TUNZE 6200. Clint what stream do you have that is controlable?

  10. Usualy pumps add heat to the system and a close loop would add heat, just depends on the maker of the pump.. Cause all pumps have different heat signatures. If running a halide and some extra pumps for a close loop, maybe a small chiller would help the heat if it needed it. Also maybe bumping the ac in the house MIGHT help keep the tank cool, butt sometimes cannot be wallet friendly. Alot of factors to wage in.. I would set the tank up and have everything running, then find out what your tank temp is and adjust accordingly.

    Hope this helps any.

×
×
  • Create New...