Truckin
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Posts posted by Truckin
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I have about 25 pounds of live rock to sell. $60 take all.
Near 183 & 620 / Lakeline Mall.
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Sold! And if I could figure out how to, I would delete the listing.
Thanks to all.
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Sale pending.
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I don't know if you still have the "red" rock in your tank, but if you do, the red is probably due to iron content. And since minerals are rarely pure, it may have other metals. All of the metals in significant quantities are bad for your livestock, and they will probably leach forever, especially since it has color on the surface.
The leaching may not have an immediate effect, and the ability of various species to withstand metals in the water may vary. But if something magically dies - easier to avoid this by keeping obvious problems out of your tank.
Cheers.
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It's all still here. Thanks for looking.
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I've cleared out my PM inbox. Sorry about that.
For those who want small amounts, I'm trying to sell all of it at one time. If I piece it out I will do a new posting.
Thanks.
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Anthony Calfo, in his book, Coral Propagation, on page 251 starts a discussion of Palytoxins in Zoanthids (genera: Zoanthus, Palythoa & Protopalythoa). He discusses his three poisoning experiences - one from wiping a towel across his face and lips. He recommends protective eyewear, gloves and keep your mouth shut while handling toxic species. How do you know which are toxic? Be safe with all of them. Apparently, some toxins could be fatal.
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Just placed an order for $23.
Roy Buchanan
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Overall, they look pretty good.
Closeups are where more depth of field [in focus from near to far] can usually help. (An exception is when the photographer wants the background out of focus to direct attention on the main subject.)
More depth of field is gained by using a small lense opening [larger f-stop number]. A small lense opening usually needs a slow shutter speed to get enough light into the camera. Then, the slow shutter speed is helped when the camera is mounted on a tripod, with a cable shutter release - both prevent jiggle of the camera. Even a little jiggle will make the image a little unsharp.
Keep up the good work.
Roy
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I think that whether film or digital is superior depends on the reason you are taking the photos. Many "fine art" photographers still use black & white film. Many commercial photographers have gone digital. Either one could be as complicated as you want to make it.
As a beginning with film, start with one setting, (for example put some food items on a table top in bright light) and work with one part of your camera at a time. Take your time with each shot and write down the specifics of what you are doing. This is so you can go back and understand how making a change with your camera settings affects the image. Stay with one type of film and one type of processing. The reason for this is to learn how to use the camera - not to make great photos yet.
I just added a discussion on exposure to a posting in the Photography Discussion Forum / Help with my camera / from Tate1. This might help get you started.
If you want to become an expert, look for technical books written by Ansel Adams - one of the great masters of film technique.
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The following discussion is on exposure [lightness or darkness of an image] and related focus/depth of field. I know that many cameras allow automatic focus, I will assume that the photographer will manually set the focus on the subject of interest. And, while many cameras will automatically set exposure, I will assume that the camera will allow manual setting of shutter speed, lense opening, or both.
For any given subject [outdoors, indoors, etc.], a light meter willgive combinations of shutter speed and aperture [lense opening] for atheoretical "ideal" photo. Of course, using a light meter - even onewithin the camera itself - can also be a complex subject. Thesimplest, practical approach is to use an "average" reading if yourmeter [or camera] permits. If you want to become an expert, Ansel Adams, the godof photography, wrote several books on the subject for filmphotography. Digital photography is not all that different, except youdon't use film.
Shutter speed and aperture are the two factors that control the amount of light entering the camera [thus, a light or dark image], and they work in combination. You can select a fast shutter speed if the subject is moving or the camera is hand held. A fast shutter speed allows less light to enter the camera; a slow shutter speed allows more light in.
The aperture is an "iris-like" device that opens wide or small behind the lense, and also affects the amount of light entering the camera. Large number, like f22, means small lense opening; small number, like f2.8 means big lense opening with more light going into the camera. The aperture also affects the depth of field [the distance things are in focus from near to far]. A small lense opening gives greater depth of field, but it usually needs a slower shutter speed to compensate for the "correct" amount of light. For better photos when using a slow shutter speed, use a tripod and cable shutter release
The aperture and shutter are both arranged to change incrementally giving a 50 percent change in the amount of light. Thus, a shutter speed of 1/50 of a second is half of 1/25 second, and so on. An aperture of f5.6 is twice as much as f8, an adjacent setting. Given the ideal setting combinations from the light meter, you can close the aperture one "f stop" [say from f8 to f11 reducing the light by one half] gaining more depth of field that things are in focus, while slowing the shutter speed one setting [say from 1/50 to 1/25 increasing the light by one half], and still have the same "ideal" amount of light entering the camera.
Since using a light meter may be difficult, and "ideal" may be a matter of taste, many people will "bracket" their shots of a given image. This means after using the "ideal" combination of aperture and shutter speed, they keep the aperture setting constant [small lense opening (big number) gives greater depth of field], while taking another shot with the speed one setting faster and another with the shutter one setting slower than "ideal." Of course, depending on the nature of the image, you could also bracket the shots holding the shutter speed constant, and changing the aperture. The idea is that one of the three combinations may "look" better than the other two.
I hope this has been helpful.
Roy
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Hey Roy,
I unfortunately purchased the "downscale" battery operated auto fish feeders from WalMart about a year ago...I came home to crashed tanks...they were the ones that feed every 12 hours...well, fish do not eat at night...I could have not put food on one side so when it rotated it would be empty...hindsight=20/20 You could let fish go for 3 days max, I was told, corals even longer...I am leaving for Florida this week and I need to have my son's girlfriend come. I will have her feed just once over a 5 day time period. Just make sure you leave explict instructions for if you ever have a sitter. I have never used the digital feeders.
Another thing I have to have for my sitter is plenty of top off water...remember though, I have 6 tanks...
I plan on a heavier feeding before I leave for the airport Tuesday....then have the sitter come on Thursday. I will have bags marked in the freezer for each specific tank.
Ric has a good suggestion for a club sign up. I fortunately have trusted friends and family very close to my home
Hi Laura,
I think you need a few more tanks, just to make life easier.
Roy
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Anyone have experience with automatic fish feeders? What can I do over a seven day vacation -- any ideas?
And, what about corals?
Thanks,
Roy
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It would be helpful if sellers would make a clear and complete statement of the terms in the offer to sell. It's just simple courtesy to smooth transactions and help a friendly community.
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I have bought a few things from Petstore because the shipping is cheaper than Marine Depot. Curiously, Petstore's website allows use of my Marine Depot password. Dunno.
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How about naming the vendor so that we know what to expect when the vendor makes a mistake.
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I don't know about this particular species, but I had flatworms in my tank, and they multiplied into a plague. I tried a Sixline Wrasse to control them, but it didn't. Finally, I used Salifert Flatworm eXit to get rid of them, with no harm to fish or other critters. I would avoid flatworms.
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Sold
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Sale pending.
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Zoa colony approx. 2-1/2 inches wide with 60+ heads. Started as frag, and grew fast attaching to live rock over 4 inches wide. Under MH & actinic lights -- colors in the photos are a little off. The center is light pink with a white dot; the middle band is brown with faint blue streaks; the eyelashes are bright orange.
$35. If interested send me a PM.
Can bring to ARC meeting tomorrow, or I can meet up at River City most any other time.
Thanks for looking.
Roy
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I plan to be there. Roy
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It's hard to tell - what color is the duncan?
75 gal full setup $750
in Complete Systems
Posted
Aquarium 75 gal. saltwater $750
48" wide x 18" deep x 20 high
Blonde oak stand 50" wide x 20" deep x 30" high
Light fixture: Current Outer Orbit 48" model 1072
(2) 150 watt HQI 1400k Phoenix bulbs (TQI)
(2) 54 watt actinic 460mm bulbs (T5)
(2) 54 watt actinic 420mm bulbs (T5)
mounts on top of aquarium; internal fan
Eheim 1262 pump in sump
AquaMedic Turboflotor protein skimmer in sump
Hydor Koralia Wavemaker Controller 4-Way Deluxe
(3) Hydor Koralia 4 pumps/power heads
(1) Hydor Koralia 2 pump/powerhead
plastic bin sump
plastic bin refugium
heater; (2) timers
lots of live rocks and about 3 or 4 inches sand
everything is in good working order
(don't have time for it)
near Lakeline Mall at 620 & 183
(512) 973-9918 if we are out, leave a name and number
some healthy fish and corals go with the aquarium, but I don't want to list them
(price out the equipment and buy it for that)
Please don't ask about parting out.