Truckin

I don't know if you still have the "red" rock in your tank, but if you do, the red is probably due to iron content. And since minerals are rarely pure, it may have other metals. All of the metals in significant quantities are bad for your livestock, and they will probably leach forever, especially since it has color on the surface. The leaching may not have an immediate effect, and the ability of various species to withstand metals in the water may vary. But if something magically dies - easier to avoid this by keeping obvious problems out of your tank. Cheers.

Anthony Calfo, in his book, Coral Propagation, on page 251 starts a discussion of Palytoxins in Zoanthids (genera: Zoanthus, Palythoa & Protopalythoa). He discusses his three poisoning experiences - one from wiping a towel across his face and lips. He recommends protective eyewear, gloves and keep your mouth shut while handling toxic species. How do you know which are toxic? Be safe with all of them. Apparently, some toxins could be fatal.

Just placed an order for $23. Roy Buchanan

Overall, they look pretty good. Closeups are where more depth of field [in focus from near to far] can usually help. (An exception is when the photographer wants the background out of focus to direct attention on the main subject.) More depth of field is gained by using a small lense opening [larger f-stop number]. A small lense opening usually needs a slow shutter speed to get enough light into the camera. Then, the slow shutter speed is helped when the camera is mounted on a tripod, with a cable shutter release - both prevent jiggle of the camera. Even a little jiggle will make the image a little unsharp. Keep up the good work. Roy

The following discussion is on exposure [lightness or darkness of an image] and related focus/depth of field. I know that many cameras allow automatic focus, I will assume that the photographer will manually set the focus on the subject of interest. And, while many cameras will automatically set exposure, I will assume that the camera will allow manual setting of shutter speed, lense opening, or both. For any given subject [outdoors, indoors, etc.], a light meter willgive combinations of shutter speed and aperture [lense opening] for atheoretical "ideal" photo. Of course, using a light meter - even onewithin the camera itself - can also be a complex subject. Thesimplest, practical approach is to use an "average" reading if yourmeter [or camera] permits. If you want to become an expert, Ansel Adams, the godof photography, wrote several books on the subject for filmphotography. Digital photography is not all that different, except youdon't use film. Shutter speed and aperture are the two factors that control the amount of light entering the camera [thus, a light or dark image], and they work in combination. You can select a fast shutter speed if the subject is moving or the camera is hand held. A fast shutter speed allows less light to enter the camera; a slow shutter speed allows more light in. The aperture is an "iris-like" device that opens wide or small behind the lense, and also affects the amount of light entering the camera. Large number, like f22, means small lense opening; small number, like f2.8 means big lense opening with more light going into the camera. The aperture also affects the depth of field [the distance things are in focus from near to far]. A small lense opening gives greater depth of field, but it usually needs a slower shutter speed to compensate for the "correct" amount of light. For better photos when using a slow shutter speed, use a tripod and cable shutter release The aperture and shutter are both arranged to change incrementally giving a 50 percent change in the amount of light. Thus, a shutter speed of 1/50 of a second is half of 1/25 second, and so on. An aperture of f5.6 is twice as much as f8, an adjacent setting. Given the ideal setting combinations from the light meter, you can close the aperture one "f stop" [say from f8 to f11 reducing the light by one half] gaining more depth of field that things are in focus, while slowing the shutter speed one setting [say from 1/50 to 1/25 increasing the light by one half], and still have the same "ideal" amount of light entering the camera. Since using a light meter may be difficult, and "ideal" may be a matter of taste, many people will "bracket" their shots of a given image. This means after using the "ideal" combination of aperture and shutter speed, they keep the aperture setting constant [small lense opening (big number) gives greater depth of field], while taking another shot with the speed one setting faster and another with the shutter one setting slower than "ideal." Of course, depending on the nature of the image, you could also bracket the shots holding the shutter speed constant, and changing the aperture. The idea is that one of the three combinations may "look" better than the other two. I hope this has been helpful. Roy

It would be helpful if sellers would make a clear and complete statement of the terms in the offer to sell. It's just simple courtesy to smooth transactions and help a friendly community.

I have bought a few things from Petstore because the shipping is cheaper than Marine Depot. Curiously, Petstore's website allows use of my Marine Depot password. Dunno.

How about naming the vendor so that we know what to expect when the vendor makes a mistake.

It's hard to tell - what color is the duncan?

I think the point of adding, at least, a small amount of "live" sand is to introduce small critters and bacteria into the sand bed that help to cycle waste through the nitrogen cycle. I'm not sure that the same species of bacteria thrive on live rocks, since the rocks and sand bed present different micro-environments. Maybe that's a good question for a microbiologist. I'm not an expert, but I have not come across any information about sand (non-silica type) contributing to an algae problem. It seems that most algae problems come from phosphate and nitrate in the water (from waste). My tank has a couple inches of fine aragonite on top of coarser aragonite. Since I don't have any burrowing fish, I wish I did not have the fine stuff. Any time I mess around on the bottom, I get a cloud of the fine stuff stirred up, and it settles out everywhere, including on corals. Good luck.

As a newby, I was intrigued by the waving form of xenia. Now it's scattered all over my tank on the live rocks. Two questions: Is there any way to have it in the tank without it spreading all over the place? How do you get rid of it? I tried cutting some off, and it grew back from the small amount left on the rock. Any solutions? Thanks, Roy

Got any pics and what are the dimensions?

I'm not in a rush. Let me know when it's ready and I'll come by. I live not far from you folks. Good luck on the new setup. Thanks.

If you still have the SQWD, I want it. I or my wife (she has been there before) could come by this afternoon. Or, let me know another time that is convenient. And PM an address and a phone number again so we can touch base. Thanks, Roy

PM sent on Blue Lagoon zoas.

You might take a look at one of these: http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~category~ViaAqua_Poly_Reactor_(Multi_Media_Reactor)_Phosphate_Reactors~vendor~ViaAqua~idProduct~VA3311~idCategory~FIFRISPR.html

I'll take the following: Test kits (ALOT of test kits)- $10 5 x 5gallon water jugs- $2 a piece 1 full jug of Oceanic Natural Sea Salt Mix-$10 1/2 full jug of Oceanic Natural Sea Salt Mix -$5 light timers-$5 1/4 Kent Marine Phosphate sponge-$2 3/4 full Kent dKH buffer $4 3/4 full bottle of Ocean Nutrition Flakes $2 1/2 bottle of Marine pH buffer by Seachem $2 PM sent

PM sent on the frogspawn.

I'll take: $9 Eagle Eyes $10 Mysticals (if you can do another one) $12 Whammin Watermelon Pick up at RCA would be fine most any time. Let me know when. Thanks, Roy

What kind of mushrooms are on the rock & how large is the featherduster?

Considering the "extras" that go with a saltwater tank (such as protein skimmer, lights, etc.), I would buy a complete reef setup from someone selling. Saltwater tanks are an expensive hobby, especially if you buy items individually. It would be a lot easier, and cheaper, to buy a working system from someone who has had it running for a while. Have patience (easy to say) and watch for stuff selling through ARC or Craig's List. Good luck.

I've been adding some new softie corals to my tank, and I just learned about using a dip to avoid pests. Do any of you folks have experience, both good and/or bad? It seems that dipping soft corals might be more of a problem than stony corals. Can anyone recommend a good product especially for zoas and mushrooms? Thanks, Roy

Hi Mark, I'll take frag #2 of the 2 polyps for $10. PM sent. Roy

Interested in the multiple-head frog spawn, small anemone, something in upper-left corner of photo (maybe blue candy canes?). PM sent.

If we can meet up somewhere north of downtown sometime, I can take five at $3. I'm not in a rush. Send me a PM if this works. Roy