olaggie01

Getting some great growth for 6 months. I'd love to stop over sometime and see the tank in person.

Hi John. What are the dimensions?

Got the lights up on the tank yesterday and picked up the Snapper pump. Just need to finish the overflow box and pick up some 2" pvc to feed the snapper so that I can start on the plumbing. Here is an iphone photo of the lights on the tank. As you can see, the iphone does an excellent job of picking up the brightness of the light. Also, here is the layout again with the completed LED fixtures. I think I may need to widen it a few inches to accommodate the T5s. For some reason, something is really slowing me down on this build. I wonder if I can grab a picture of it next time I see it. Ahh, the elusive, time/money sink makes an appearance outside in the garage. And a little more normal shot:

Great work steve. Lots of wing nuts there. Gig'em

Any updates with your tank? I'm hoping to get mine wet by this week.

I agree. Only thing is that on the 12 LED fixtures, I can't control the blues separately from the whites. Maybe down the line if I add another 24 LEDs, but until now, I can only dim the entire fixture.

Thanks Clint. I think I may do that, but we will see if I get a wrasse that requires a sandbed. Got a 2nd package from Fed-Ex today. This time it was my lights. They were packaged perfectly. Only 1 optic fell off, amazing, considering I've seen our Fed-Ex guy throw our boxes up to the porch. This package was a bit heavy, so I doubt he could have thrown it far, but he could have played soccer with it. Top of LED array with fan and project box with wire connections. Each array has at least 1 fan and a project box to connect to the main supply box. Here is a picture of the small project box with the military style plugs All 4 drivers are housed in this project box, as well as the power source and an on/off switch. Very nice and compact. This picture shows the lines coming out of the project box, 3 larger wires are for connection to each of the LED array. The 4 inputs are for dimming via the 0-10v through my profilux. Here is the inside of the project box. The other side of the project box is the same, 2 drivers mounted on the project box.

Got a couple of packages in the mail today. Sump, plumbing parts (although not my gasket) and my top-off tank. Expecting my LEDs later today when FED-EX delivers. Sump: Has a bit of a bow to it, but I suspect it will straighten out once I get water into it. Plus, I'll only run the water level at 12" or so. Sump in place: Fits nicely with just enough room for my return pump Plumbing parts: 2" true union ball valve, 1.5" TUBV, couple of 1" ball valves and a 2" gasket for the sump Top-off tank with and without lid: Thinking about installing a uni-seal on the bottom with a piece of clear acrylic as a sight glass Overflow bent on one side:

I'll keep looking for different wrasse species. Not 100% sure I want another one, but they are very nice fish. I need to establish a decent pod population for the madarins and wrasse. My pygmy angel seems to clean my rocks as well, but will definitely eat anything else that is thrown into the tank. Got a few packages in the mail today. I'll upload some pictures shortly.

Thanks Mike. LiveAquaria says that a mystery wrasse prefers a sandy bottom. Guess that might be a catch all for wrasse' though. I also heard that the Christmas Wrasse can be a bit aggressive, but they all appear to be semi-aggressive.

Thanks Pat. Maybe I'll look for another wrasse that doesn't require a sandbed.

Thanks Derek. Do all Wrasse need a sandbed? I don't have a sandbed currently, but my Lubbock appears ok. Maybe I could put a little tupperware dish of sand in the back of the tank, as I was planning on going barebottom. Chris

Don't think so. Not unless your dad is Junior Savell.

It does?

Should be getting my sump/plumbing parts tomorrow as well as the LEDs. Not sure when the pump will be here, hopefully tomorrow as well so that I can get this thing moved out of my garage. Got some plumbing done last night, nothing is glued (had my boy with me and didn't want him inhaling PVC cement). I need to get the sump and pump in place before I start gluing anyways. Drain lines and return lines sketched out. Also marked out where I want to bend the acrylic for my overflow. I decided not to put the Tunze pumps in the overflow since it would not be easy to remove them to clean them due to the eurobracing on the tank. Found a use for my old T5s though. They used to light my tank, now they light the stand.

Any updates Andrew?

Thanks Andrew. If I don't buy your overflow, I may need the weldon 4.

Had one of these in my 120 and loved him Maybe 1 tang: Pair of Mandarins (likely ORA if possible) Always liked CBBs (if I can find one eating frozen)

Anyone have any thoughts on the fish that I have listed below? My current fish are listed first. I would like to keep these, and possibly, find another perc in hopes of them pairing. FYI, all pictures of the potential taken from LiveAquaria. 2 of these guys: I can't find a picture on LA for my wrasee, but here he/she is: Potential fish: Pair of these guys: (Depending on the compatibility with my pygmy) Always wanted one of these for valonia control Maybe 1-2 wrasse(s) depending on how the personality with my Lubbock

Good eye Dale. You are correct, there is no overflow yet. I've had some real issues trying to figure out what I wanted in the overflow box. My initial thought was to hide the 2 Tunze 6105s, but once I got the tank and the pumps, I realized that the eurobracing on the tank will hinder how easily I can take the pumps out to clean them, plus it will also limit where I can put the pumps in case of growth in the future. My new plan is to either build a small rectangular box or perhaps bend a longer piece of acrylic at 45 degree angles to get some surface area to skim. Make sense?

Actually, I haven't received the lights yet. They are still in Houston. Those pictures were from the Marsh Christmas party, which I didn't attend, just my lights. I may have my ratio wrong. I'll have to take a look at them when I get them in my hands. The PAR values aren't surprising, but what I'm hoping is that I'll keep my rock work low in the tank and allow the corals to grow up towards the light. That should give me plenty of swimming room for my fish as well.

You should post some of your progress soon. Mine is nothing compared to yours. Valid point Jason. In fact, Chris Fowler and I had that conversation a couple of times. I'm hoping with the addition of the 2 T5s, it will help light up the tank. The electrician who built the LED array measured the par values (not sure if they were in a tank or in air), but he was getting 300+ par 24" below the 12 LED fixture. If anything, where the LED fixtures are located, I may have too much light. I am hoping to have some darker spots to give some additional depth to the tank. Also, on the 12 LED array, I have 12 additional spots to put additional LEDs if I want. So, another 24 LEDs could be added. I also have 6 more T5s at the house in case I need additional light. I'm hoping to avoid that though, with the cost of bulb replacement and the additional cooling required.

Continued: Operating LEDs at Marsh Christmas party: Proposed layout in canopy: Return pump: Reeflo Snapper powering the main tank, reactors, water change and eventual frag tank In-tank flow: 2 x Tunze 6105 controlled by the profilux 2x Tunze 6055s controlled by the profilux (from previous tank) I also have 2 x Tunze 6025 if I have any dead spots (unlikely) Controller: Profilux EX II with EVG card to control LEDs and Tunze control CA/ALK/MG: Profilux 4 channel dosing pump controller Avast Marine Kalk reactor Top-off/ATO: 15 gallon square black Tamco tank (11.5x11.5x18) Profilux float valve to control water level in sump Aquascape: Minimal rockwork in tank, bonsai style main island with 2 smaller islands highlighted by the LEDs Coral: 90% SPS (tabeling acros along with some branching formosas) 10% LPS (chalice, acans) Current Fish: False Perc (already have) Lubbocks Wrasse (already have) 2 PJ cardinals (already have) Red Sea Pygmy Angel (already have) Potential Fish: Orange Shoulder / Powder Blue Tang Copper Banded Butterfly Scripps Rabbitfish A pair of Angels (compatible with my Pygmy?)

Hi All, I have been slowly purchasing equipment for a tank upgrade. This will be my 5th tank, ranging from a 10g in 2001 (complete disaster), 120g in 2005, 60g in 2007, 40g in 2009. I was looking at the downgrade trend and figured that I might as well go big while I had the chance. Tank: 150g (36x36x27) - 1/2" glass, black silicone, 3x1" sch 80 bulkheads for Beananimal drain built by a Local tank builder in Dallas Stand: 1" tubular steel stand fabricated by an Austin local Stand/Canopy/Bookshelves Since the tank is in my home office, I'd like to match the cabinets/doors (knotty alder) along with having 2 small bookshelves flanking the tank. This will allow me to store office/fish things but also provide some space where my ATO tank and electronics will be housed in the deadspace behind the bookshelves. (See sketchup below) Layout with proposed sump: Sump: 40g (24x24x18) Tamco Sump from US Plastics. I purchased a used sump from an Austin local but the layout of it wasn't right, so I'll be selling that soon. The Tamco sump will allow me to drill easily into the side of it for my return pump and allow me to have additional water volume for water changes, etc. I plan on running all three drains into the sump with a Beananimal drain system Skimmer: ATB 840 v1.5 Lights: 48 LEDs 22 NW – XPG 6 CW – XPG 20 RB – XPE Assembled on 3 heatsinks, with 12 LEDs on 2 of the heatsinks, and 24 on the 3rd. The 2 – 12 LED heatsinks will flank the 24 LED heatsink along with 2x24w T5s (already had from a previous build) I will control the LEDs with my Profilux controller in order to dim the LEDs to get a proper color. During build:

Anyone have any in the NW Austin area? Chris