Cdklos

Thats a good idea. I was planning on having a custom frame built by 80/20.net Has anyone ever used them before? I saw tidal gardens uses them and they looked really sharp!

**UPDATE**

We have broken ground on the new house and made a few changes to the tank and the room design. I have decided to increase the tank size to a 10'W x 36"T x 30" deep. Making the tank 561 gallons. The tank room can now be accessed from the house and not the garage. We have added a mini-split AC unit to the room to keep it cool and an AC return from the main house with a damper and humidistat to control humidity in the house. The average humidity where I live is around 30% so I figured we could use the tank to help increase humidity in the house. We added a floor drain to the room and a sink, the RO system will be in my mechanical room adjacent to the tank room so I will have extra room for a 15 tank quarantine set up. I figure once everything is up a running in a year or so, I will start quarantining fish and selling them. I am going to use an external skimmer, and make 2 custom sumps, one with a large fuge and one with a remote DSB. I am trying to figure out what lights to go with. I am thinking metal halide with T5. Is this still the absolute best option? Cost doesn't matter, I just want the absolute best lighting possible. I used Kessils with t5 on my last tank and they worked well, but I think I could have better coral growth with a better light set up. I am also thinking the Radion XR30 G5 PRO. I do like the idea of less heat output than halides, I am not putting a chiller on the tank. What do you all think?

Hello All! I'm sure most you you don't remember be, I built a 240 Gallon a couple years ago. A bunch has changed since then and the 240 is gone. I have since moved from Austin to open a new branch of my company in Lubbock, Texas but I still return to Austin all the time for work. I am looking for suggestions on equipment and design help for my new tank. Here is a link to my first tank build.

Heres the story:

I'm building a new house and the new tank is going to be the focal point. I'm having a room built out for the tank to go in, with a cut out in the wall for viewing the tank. The tank dimensions will be 120"x30"x30". The room will be 8'x18', I added a picture.

I'm putting in a 4000 gallon/day R.O. system for the whole house and D.I. bottles for the tank. 

I'm looking for any ideas or input that anyone has. I am planning on doing 1 main 5000 GPH pump, and a second 3000 GPH circulation tank. I'm looking for at least 5000 GPH flow rate, including pump head pressure. 2 triangular shaped overflows on the back wall. I will have a metal frame built to support the tank with at least a 120 gallon usable sump beneath it. I'm going do 1.5"-2" sand bed in the tank, with a large remote deep sand bed that can be emptied in a few years, to avoid the problems down the road. 

I will be running a full Apex system, CO2 reactor, a few reactors for carbon and GFO, ATO, and the like.

I will also have 4-5 40 gallon breeders with divisions for fish quarantining, that will be on a totally different system running copper, plumped so that I can drain and refill the tanks automatically. 

Where can I get a high quality custom made sump? How should I have the sump made? I want a refugium, but also want the flexibility to run a triton system in the future if I decide to. 

What skimmer or Skimmers should I use? The tank will be pretty heavily stocked eventually, I will do LPS and SPS, so I assume the bio load will eventually be pretty heavy. 

Who is the best tank maker? I want the best quality I can get.

I have attached a picture of where the tank will be going. We will be breaking ground on the house in January, I will probably order the glass and sump the middle of March, I assume it takes 6 weeks to get the tank made and shipped.

What are yall's ideas!!?? I don't want to miss anything, looking for suggestions!
 

 

 

 

Hello Accazier, I have a Picasso Trigger up for sale if your interested, he’s about 4”.

Your gonna put all those guys in a 120? Looks like 7?

 

It’s all gone.


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I have four of the metal halids, Ice cap ballasts for them, a large skimmer, and a huge bucket of sand. It’s all going in the trash tomorrow. If you want it please come get it, but you gotta take it all.

 

 

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I’ll take him, I can pick him up this evening.


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I do RO/DI work.


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I’m looking for about 4 established tangs. I already have a hippo tang, and Lt. Tang. I’d like an established blonde naso, an established Powder blue tang and an established yellow tang. 3-5 inched would be perfect, and I’ll pay extra. It’s gotta be from an established tank that hasn’t had any problems with ich or velvet, or hasn’t had any problems for a very long time. Let me know!

What are pellets?

Thanks for all the replies!

I put live rock in there so the picky eaters would at least have something to pick at...Before I put any fish in there I put a bunch of copper in there so the live rock would absorb it, I left it like that for a week or so then did water changes to bring the copper levels back down and they have been at .5 can consistently for 1+ months. For the next quarantine I will try Coppersafe, I like the fact that it’s easier on the fish, didn’t know that! I will try putting some worms in there and some Ulva. Will he eat once he gets hungry or will he starve himself to death? Also, can I get red algae at the LFS? Never seen red algae.

Not sure where to post questions about fish...so I’ll throw it up here and see if you guys can help me.

I got a new blonde naso 2 days ago from live aquaria. He looks great, swims around the quarantine tank and seems generally fine, but he won’t eat. He is in a 20 gallon quarantine tank that is well established. I’m running cuppramine in the tank at .5. I’ve done a 50% water change the day before I added the new fish to the quarantine. No ammonia, nitrates or nitrites. He is about 2.5” long. There is also a Leutennant tang and a long nose hawk in the tank. The Lt. is about 3” long and the hawk is about 2”. There has been zero aggression between the two tangs, and they were all added at the same time. I’ve tried mysis, spirulina, mega-marine angel, nori, and dr. Gs. I have done mixtures of all the different foods together. Tried feeding at different times during the day. I’ve put nori on clips and  tied to rocks. I’ve soaked the food in garlic and tried with no garlic. When I feed he comes out and seems excited to eat, swims up to food and then passes it by. What else should I try? I’ve managed to get angels to eat with no real issues, but this guy won’t eat anything! I have seen him nibble at some of the live rock every once in a while, but not too much. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

I'm shutting down my frag tank since it has been grossly neglected this year. The corals have largely lost their colors, but will rebound well in good conditions. Since they're uglier than sin right now and I just want this thing shut off, I'm selling mini colonies and large frags for $10-20. It's most let GE Purple Orchid and also some other corals like rainbow monti, some kind of Tort, and an acro colony that was once a nice blue-purple/green that is ~6"
 
Here's what the last remaining bit of Purple Orchid looks like in my tank. The potential is there! Just needs a little more TLC than my neglected frag tank.

I don’t know much about different coral types, but I want to stock it up. So I’ll take anything your willing to sell. PM and let me know how much!


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This. Tons of fish and feeding 3-5x/day. [emoji4]

I have about 13 fish in my 240, I feed 1x a day. Never had any nitrates even through the cycle. I’m gonna wait about another 3 weeks before I add any more fish.


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Flow looks pretty good to me. Could even be a hair slower but that should work. Remember, ramp it up super slow and keep testing nitrates during this timeframe. Don't let it get to zero, keep it around 5-10ppm if possible.

How do you keep nitrates up? I’ve never had nitrates in my tank.


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I'm currently using the BRS 75 gpd stage 4 model. The water goes through a water softener first, then to a whole house prefilter, and then the RODI unit. The RODI is still plumbed the same way that I got it from BRS and I believe it's sediment filter -> carbon block -> RO membrane -> DI resin -> holding barrel. I run the filter straight to the waste line for 1 hour before collecting any water. I had previously used a 30 minute runoff and found that it wasn't enough. I also use my handheld TDS meter every batch to make sure the water is coming out of the filter at 0 TDS. I had tried to replace my filters independently when they were exhausted, but found it easier to replace all of the stages at once like you suggested.
Are you suggesting that I run the RODI through carbon again after it comes out of the filter or add a second carbon block after the DI resin stage? I've thought about changing the sediment filter for a second DI resin or second carbon block since the filter is plumbed after my whole house filter. I posted a picture of my sediment filter after 12 months of use and it looks nearly brand new.

Sediment on a water supply in the city with a softener for our purposes is a waste. I would replace it with a high quality carbon filter. I think a lot of the water issues that people have is because of low quality carbon filters. Between the RO membrane and the DI filter I would add a carbon filter to help polish the water before the DI. If your DI resin is doing its job, there should be no need to filter it further after the DI unit. Also, if you have to run water down the drain for and hour before using it, you have a problem, you should be below 10PPM coming out of your RO within just a few seconds of running. My guess is that your membrane is fouling out. Most RO membranes are thin film composite. And chlorine will ruin them pretty quickly, that’s why you have carbon filters before the membrane to protect the membrane. Always run the DI after your RO and after a post carbon filter. You will get the most out of your expensive DI resin and can be pretty confident that your water is high quality.


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Glad to see you back and active again Sascha! It's a long and hard road to getting pests and issues worked out, but it's worth it in the long run. I have to say that the water in our part of town has caused many of us head aches and mysterious coral death. I find that if my filters aren't replaced within 6 months, even though TDS reads 0, corals start to decline in health. Not sure what they put in our water, but it's something potent enough to make it through DI resin and damage coral. Keep up the hard work and persistence! It will be worth it.

I know this is old, but maybe it could help someone out.


I do commercial water treatment for a living. A water softener will work wonders when installed before an RO system. It will remove small amounts of iron, calcium and magnesium, and is used as a predicted for RO membranes. You can also take the sediment filters out and put in 3 pre carbon filters and 1 post carbon filter, then run it through a dual DI system. Once the first DI canister is depleted, remove the first canister and trash it. Put the second canister in place of the first and replenish the second canister. This ensures you are always getting quality DI water and prevents waste. When it comes to water treatment before the water is mixed with salt, CARBON, CARBON, CARBON!! The ROX .8 from BRS works great, it is basically medical grade carbon. If you are using an ATK, after the RO pressure tank, run it through a 10” carbon block, then DI, then to the fresh water storage tank. Make sure the fresh water tank is sealed and you are GTG. You can run it back through a carbon again if you like, but no necessary. I have 150 GPD RO systems with permeate pumps that work great. I will sell them to anyone that wants them for cost. I think they are like $200. Also, don’t buy your carbon filters from Home Depot, it’s crap carbon and stupid expensive. I have cases and cases of 10” carbon filters for RO systems and they are pretty inexpensive.



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Is the big one still available?

I did red with schedule 80 and it looks very nice! I suspect I spend about $350 in fittings. Gate valves, ball checks, ball valves, and manifold.