Cdklos

Thats a good idea. I was planning on having a custom frame built by 80/20.net Has anyone ever used them before? I saw tidal gardens uses them and they looked really sharp!

Small update! The tank is coming along in the slowest of ways. I have created my shopping list of BRS, there are only 493 items in my cart! The new house is on its way. I decided that I wanted a new big tank but I didn't have enough space in my house, so we decided to build a new house around a new tank. I have decided to make the tank bigger than origionally planned. It comes in at 120" x 36" x 30" which is 561 gallons. The original design was 467 gallons. Here is the fish tank room as it progresses! I plan on having about 15 tanks for in this room for quarantine, including a nice frag tank. This is such a long process but its going to be worth it in the end.

**UPDATE** We have broken ground on the new house and made a few changes to the tank and the room design. I have decided to increase the tank size to a 10'W x 36"T x 30" deep. Making the tank 561 gallons. The tank room can now be accessed from the house and not the garage. We have added a mini-split AC unit to the room to keep it cool and an AC return from the main house with a damper and humidistat to control humidity in the house. The average humidity where I live is around 30% so I figured we could use the tank to help increase humidity in the house. We added a floor drain to the room and a sink, the RO system will be in my mechanical room adjacent to the tank room so I will have extra room for a 15 tank quarantine set up. I figure once everything is up a running in a year or so, I will start quarantining fish and selling them. I am going to use an external skimmer, and make 2 custom sumps, one with a large fuge and one with a remote DSB. I am trying to figure out what lights to go with. I am thinking metal halide with T5. Is this still the absolute best option? Cost doesn't matter, I just want the absolute best lighting possible. I used Kessils with t5 on my last tank and they worked well, but I think I could have better coral growth with a better light set up. I am also thinking the Radion XR30 G5 PRO. I do like the idea of less heat output than halides, I am not putting a chiller on the tank. What do you all think?

Hello All! I'm sure most you you don't remember be, I built a 240 Gallon a couple years ago. A bunch has changed since then and the 240 is gone. I have since moved from Austin to open a new branch of my company in Lubbock, Texas but I still return to Austin all the time for work. I am looking for suggestions on equipment and design help for my new tank. Here is a link to my first tank build. Heres the story: I'm building a new house and the new tank is going to be the focal point. I'm having a room built out for the tank to go in, with a cut out in the wall for viewing the tank. The tank dimensions will be 120"x30"x30". The room will be 8'x18', I added a picture. I'm putting in a 4000 gallon/day R.O. system for the whole house and D.I. bottles for the tank. I'm looking for any ideas or input that anyone has. I am planning on doing 1 main 5000 GPH pump, and a second 3000 GPH circulation tank. I'm looking for at least 5000 GPH flow rate, including pump head pressure. 2 triangular shaped overflows on the back wall. I will have a metal frame built to support the tank with at least a 120 gallon usable sump beneath it. I'm going do 1.5"-2" sand bed in the tank, with a large remote deep sand bed that can be emptied in a few years, to avoid the problems down the road. I will be running a full Apex system, CO2 reactor, a few reactors for carbon and GFO, ATO, and the like. I will also have 4-5 40 gallon breeders with divisions for fish quarantining, that will be on a totally different system running copper, plumped so that I can drain and refill the tanks automatically. Where can I get a high quality custom made sump? How should I have the sump made? I want a refugium, but also want the flexibility to run a triton system in the future if I decide to. What skimmer or Skimmers should I use? The tank will be pretty heavily stocked eventually, I will do LPS and SPS, so I assume the bio load will eventually be pretty heavy. Who is the best tank maker? I want the best quality I can get. I have attached a picture of where the tank will be going. We will be breaking ground on the house in January, I will probably order the glass and sump the middle of March, I assume it takes 6 weeks to get the tank made and shipped. What are yall's ideas!!?? I don't want to miss anything, looking for suggestions!

Hello Accazier, I have a Picasso Trigger up for sale if your interested, he’s about 4”.

Your gonna put all those guys in a 120? Looks like 7?

It’s all gone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have four of the metal halids, Ice cap ballasts for them, a large skimmer, and a huge bucket of sand. It’s all going in the trash tomorrow. If you want it please come get it, but you gotta take it all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll take him, I can pick him up this evening. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I do RO/DI work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m looking for about 4 established tangs. I already have a hippo tang, and Lt. Tang. I’d like an established blonde naso, an established Powder blue tang and an established yellow tang. 3-5 inched would be perfect, and I’ll pay extra. It’s gotta be from an established tank that hasn’t had any problems with ich or velvet, or hasn’t had any problems for a very long time. Let me know!

What are pellets?

Thanks for all the replies! I put live rock in there so the picky eaters would at least have something to pick at...Before I put any fish in there I put a bunch of copper in there so the live rock would absorb it, I left it like that for a week or so then did water changes to bring the copper levels back down and they have been at .5 can consistently for 1+ months. For the next quarantine I will try Coppersafe, I like the fact that it’s easier on the fish, didn’t know that! I will try putting some worms in there and some Ulva. Will he eat once he gets hungry or will he starve himself to death? Also, can I get red algae at the LFS? Never seen red algae.

Not sure where to post questions about fish...so I’ll throw it up here and see if you guys can help me. I got a new blonde naso 2 days ago from live aquaria. He looks great, swims around the quarantine tank and seems generally fine, but he won’t eat. He is in a 20 gallon quarantine tank that is well established. I’m running cuppramine in the tank at .5. I’ve done a 50% water change the day before I added the new fish to the quarantine. No ammonia, nitrates or nitrites. He is about 2.5” long. There is also a Leutennant tang and a long nose hawk in the tank. The Lt. is about 3” long and the hawk is about 2”. There has been zero aggression between the two tangs, and they were all added at the same time. I’ve tried mysis, spirulina, mega-marine angel, nori, and dr. Gs. I have done mixtures of all the different foods together. Tried feeding at different times during the day. I’ve put nori on clips and tied to rocks. I’ve soaked the food in garlic and tried with no garlic. When I feed he comes out and seems excited to eat, swims up to food and then passes it by. What else should I try? I’ve managed to get angels to eat with no real issues, but this guy won’t eat anything! I have seen him nibble at some of the live rock every once in a while, but not too much. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

I don’t know much about different coral types, but I want to stock it up. So I’ll take anything your willing to sell. PM and let me know how much! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have about 13 fish in my 240, I feed 1x a day. Never had any nitrates even through the cycle. I’m gonna wait about another 3 weeks before I add any more fish. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How do you keep nitrates up? I’ve never had nitrates in my tank. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sediment on a water supply in the city with a softener for our purposes is a waste. I would replace it with a high quality carbon filter. I think a lot of the water issues that people have is because of low quality carbon filters. Between the RO membrane and the DI filter I would add a carbon filter to help polish the water before the DI. If your DI resin is doing its job, there should be no need to filter it further after the DI unit. Also, if you have to run water down the drain for and hour before using it, you have a problem, you should be below 10PPM coming out of your RO within just a few seconds of running. My guess is that your membrane is fouling out. Most RO membranes are thin film composite. And chlorine will ruin them pretty quickly, that’s why you have carbon filters before the membrane to protect the membrane. Always run the DI after your RO and after a post carbon filter. You will get the most out of your expensive DI resin and can be pretty confident that your water is high quality. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know this is old, but maybe it could help someone out. I do commercial water treatment for a living. A water softener will work wonders when installed before an RO system. It will remove small amounts of iron, calcium and magnesium, and is used as a predicted for RO membranes. You can also take the sediment filters out and put in 3 pre carbon filters and 1 post carbon filter, then run it through a dual DI system. Once the first DI canister is depleted, remove the first canister and trash it. Put the second canister in place of the first and replenish the second canister. This ensures you are always getting quality DI water and prevents waste. When it comes to water treatment before the water is mixed with salt, CARBON, CARBON, CARBON!! The ROX .8 from BRS works great, it is basically medical grade carbon. If you are using an ATK, after the RO pressure tank, run it through a 10” carbon block, then DI, then to the fresh water storage tank. Make sure the fresh water tank is sealed and you are GTG. You can run it back through a carbon again if you like, but no necessary. I have 150 GPD RO systems with permeate pumps that work great. I will sell them to anyone that wants them for cost. I think they are like $200. Also, don’t buy your carbon filters from Home Depot, it’s crap carbon and stupid expensive. I have cases and cases of 10” carbon filters for RO systems and they are pretty inexpensive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is the big one still available?

I did red with schedule 80 and it looks very nice! I suspect I spend about $350 in fittings. Gate valves, ball checks, ball valves, and manifold.