BornToHula

Thanks. I think an acclimation box will go on the shopping list. I have heard they are a good idea with wrasses anyway.

Good news is the Powder Blue Tang, Hippo Tang and Melanurus Wrasse made it into the tank OK.

Bleh.... After losing the rose banded fairy wrasse using a colander to transfer the fish, this time I went with a net while moving the longfin fairy wrasse from the QT to the 240. Somehow his tiny teeth got hooked on the net and I could not get him out of it. I cut the net and was able to use tweezers to free him, but I don't think he could breath with the net stuck there and perished. The whole ordeal was maybe 4 minutes, just goes to show how fast a good situation can turn bad I wish there a place to buy fish disease free. I'm tired of killing my fish during transfers and QT. I just want them in the tank and be done with it! Keeping acros alive is a breeze compared to the fish!

Dosing pumps have been installed! I'm considering getting another pump to start dosing AcroPower on a regular basis. I've been using it for the last couple of months on the 75g and I like the improved polyp extension it provides. The coral test frags I put in last week are doing great, so this morning I started moving the remainder of the coral that will be coming over. Just incase there were any pests in the 75g, all SPS pieces went though a Bayor dip. The Acans went through a Coral RX dip. Everything is looking good with the exception of the war coral, a vermetid snail did a number on it. We'll see if it can recover. Also, do any of you iphone users have any tips for taking pictures of reef tanks? All my pictures are very blue.

Hmm, good to know. I have a Melanurus Wrasse and Social Fairy Wrasse in QT for another week and a half before they will be moved to the display tank. Hopefully luck will be on my side - and I'll try to keep the stress to a minimum.

Very true. While he didn't have any obvious signs, it is possible he had a disease and was already in bad shape when I moved him over. The move may have stressed him out enough for him to succumb to it. I haven't checked the water parameters since Saturday (they were good), but I probably should test again tonight.

Sorry about your wrasse, that's a bummer. I've lost a few wrasses myself this year. When I moved 2 over from my old tank, they hid in the sand for many days, maybe even a week before coming out and they're still alive (so far) after a year. I can't imagine it got hurt in the colander. Thanks for the condolences. Good to know they can stay hidden for awhile and still be alright.

I only had two Sunburst Anthias in the 240 when I moved the wrasse over. The wrasse went direct from my 75g to the 240. He was doing just fine and acting normal in the display. The only thing I can think of was I did not acclimate during the transfer - but the temp, pH and salinity were checked and were very close to exactly the same. (I believe the temp was the only difference and less than half a degree.)

Got the Carbon/GFO reactor switched over. I really like using the silicone tubing, its so much easier to work with than the regular tubing. I think next time I'm going to go with black instead of clear so algae doesn't grow in it.

Bleh, the wrasse passed away today. I'll miss the guy My fish survival rate isn't doing too good this month and its bumming me out. I hope the transfer of the clowns goes better, or else I think Crystal will revoke my reef privileges.

I'm getting worried about my Rose Banded Fairy Wrasse I moved from the 75 to the 240. I moved him Saturday night and he hasn't come out of hiding since. I can barely see him under a rock and only way I can tell he is still alive is he changes his position every once in awhile. He doesn't respond to food at all. I think I may have injured or spooked him in the transfer - I used a colander instead of a net and he flipped around some once he was out of the water. It didn't seem too traumatic at the time, but I don't know what else it could be. Everything else I have moved over is doing excellent. I wonder if its worth moving rock and attempting to get a better look at him to see what the issue is? Whats the longest you have had a fish go into hiding for?

Thanks! All the fish with ich are in quarantine, none of the fish in the display tanks have ich as far as I can tell, so no damage yet. There is a risk that the current fish in the display tanks have ich but its just never shown itself, but its just a risk I'll have to take.

I'm in no huge rush on catching the basslet, I'll just snag him once I move the rock over. Any fish going into the tank is to be quarantined for 30+ days. All fish get full-length doses of pazipro and ich guard treatment. How do you treat a CUC for ich? Copper, chloroquine phosphate and freshwater dips will kill snails.

Got quite a bit done this weekend! Made frames for the screen covers: Screen covers installed: Ty's fish trap is a little large for the tank but we managed to catch the following and move them to the 240: Rose Banded Fairy Wrasse Pink Spotted Goby Tiger Pistol Shrimp Fire Shrimp Still need to catch & move: Clownfish Pair Black Cap Basslet 2 Emerald crabs The Rose Banded wrasse didn't take the move well, he has just been hiding for the past 48 hours, hopefully he will start coming out soon. Crystal helping catch fish and shrimp:

I Jinxed myself. The powder blue has white spots as of this morning . Hopefully this isn't a sign that the Ich Guard powder is not working. Video after feeding this morning. Some aggression is being shown between the tangs, this is the worse I've seen it:

Yep, I think we've all had a day where nothing goes right with a project and multiple trips to the hardware store ensues. So the tank has a crate, but does the tank itself exist yet? If so I think we need some pics!

Thanks! Good to know, the only other tang we will be getting is a purple tang so we'll need to keep our eyes out for a big one.

Crystal and I ended up at River City after going to a friend's crawfish boil on Saturday. She saw Powder Blue and Hippo tang that melted her heart so we ended up getting them! They will go through the ich treatment with the wrasses for 21 days. I know the powder blues are notorious for ich but so far to visible signs. Both are eating, though the powder blue doesn't seem too interested in food yet and is only picking at the nori throughout the day.

I haven't been able to move any fish from the 75g to the 240 yet. After losing the Blenny to jumping out, Crystal wants to make sure I make screens to cover the top of the tank. I was just going to cover the rear of the canopy, but on closer inspection it would be possible for a fish to jump through the front as well since there is about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch opening. Better to be safe than sorry. Just waiting on some more clear netting from BRS. In the meantime I managed to install the loc-line on the returns. It seems to have cut down on the micro-bubbles in the tank - but the algae is still causing some when the lights are on full blast, so no clear water just yet. Also,I wonder why the skimmer foam would be coming out of the holes on the top of the skimmer instead of falling down into the reservoir? The foam seems to be defying gravity and its causing it to smell in the process!

I actually did not know about chloroquine phosphate degrading under UV. I turned the on the aquarium light this morning, I'll have to shut it off at lunch. Its just the light that came with the tank so hopefully it won't have a large effect on it. I know theoretically the TTM may be the best method, but honestly I don't have the time or will to do it now.

Yesterday when I bought the melanurus wrasse I also bought a red fairy wrasse that I couldn't resist. This morning the fairy wrasse had Ich (he had white spots all over and was rubbing on things). I dosed New Life Spectrum Ick-Shield powder this morning which will be maintained for 21 days. I'm not sure how fast acting this treatment is, so I may attempt a freshwater dip after work to provide him some relief.

Ah, River City had one that I bought this morning. Just a heads up, I didn't receive the PM if you sent it.

You are awesome! I'll send Juiceman a PM. I do have a tool like the sea squirt that should work.

I need to get moving a little quicker in transferring things over to the 240. Maintaining the 240g, 75g, 40g quarantine and a 40g freshwater planted tank is going to drive me insane if it doesn't end soon. The biggest issue I have is the vermetid snail infestation in the 75g tank. This prevents me from just transferring over the live rock because I reallllly don't want another infestation in the 240. To take care Vermetid snails: 1. I have a canister filter on the 75g. Its just filled with filter floss and changed out every 3 days. Pain in the rear but I couldn't think of any other way to do mechanical filtration (filter socks wont fit). 2. Superglue closed any snails that I can - I've been doing this for awhile. Not sure if it helps or not. 3. Get melanarus wrasse this weekend and put into QT. Hopefully there is one available locally, if not I'll order it online. I'm going to take a risk and just do a 7 day quarantine on him, I want him in the 75g asap so he can start eating the snails. 4. When (if?) the snails are dead, move the live rock and wrasse over to 240. Transferring livestock from 75 to the 240. Going to start moving things this Sunday. 1. Get a fish trap and move any fish/shrimp/crabs I catch to the 240 2. Attempt to move anemones - I am moving over 1 rose BTA and 1 green BTA to the new tank. The other two will be sold or traded in. 3. Move over LPS and zoas to see how they do. 4. If 3 went OK for a couple days, move SPS over Once the SPS is moved over I'll be moving the dosing pumps over as well. I think I'll eventually get a calcium reactor, but for the time being I will using dosing pumps.

Got the siphon working, turning off the return pump for a bit did the trick.