Daniel

I don't have a lot of experience buy IMO I think that it is the KH and PH. I'm having a similiar problem right now with a couple of tri colors, one of them has completely lost its color and the other is on the way out. I think that my problem is high KH (13) and low PH (7.7-7.8), opposite you parameters. I have been aggressively adding PH buffer trying to get my ph to 8.0 but in return it has been raising my KH which is what I believe is the problem (stopped adding buffer). I think that your paramaters are the problem just because I can see the effect of small changes in parameters in my tank right now. Those corals have been growing like crazy and have been in place for 6 months, the Kh was raised from 10 to 13 and within a week there was a major color loss, when the lights come on in the morning they are both sliming along with a few others but stop soon after.

Never hurts to change the lights though!

I actually agree with the above.

Dave, if your lighting (bulbs or photo period) has not changed significantly in the past few weeks, it is unlikely the culprit since your coral coloration issues only started recently. To clarify, it could be your lighting, but it's probably not since light bulbs typically lose their output gradually and not in a step-wise fashion-- thus corals will not respond drastically.

Fluctuations in the alkalinity and pH are quite often the cause for bleaching incidents, in my experience, especially with the more sensitive acropora sp. Also, bleaching at the tips of corals along with diminished polyp extension are often the result of what I call "alk burn" (due to alk swings). Consistently optimal levels of Ca/Alk/Mg/pH are the best way to ensure proper coral coloration. Right now, your Alk and pH are not optimal and should be addressed. However, I would avoid making any quick corrections. Gradually bring your alk up to 8-10 and your pH down to 8.0-8.3.

Only Kalk right now. My reactor parts are on the way. I'll be running the Korallin C-1502 which is supposed to release minimal C02 into the tank so it will be interesting to see how it does in terms of pH drop and coral growth.

You could also run your Ca Rx effluent into a second aragonite media chamber. This is probably the best way to minimize pH drop due to the Ca Rx, since as the low pH effluent goes through the extra media and begins to dissolve it, the pH will rise back up towards its pre-CO2 levels.

What do you keep the temperature at in your house?

Also, keep in mind that while fans are effective, they will likely result in a lot of water loss due to evaporation.

I have been using Brightwell's BioFuel and Microbacter7 for several months now with good results, at least in terms of coral coloration. BioFuel is basically a diluted carbon source and is a little easier, in my opinion, to dose safely (as compared to vodka). I am currently dosing 11 drops of BF and 14 drops Microbacter7 each day. I'll probably start to move towards bi-weekly dosing. In a few weeks I'll also begin adding some amino acids. This system is analogous (and a lot cheaper) than using PolypLabs' Reef-Resh.

I've never had high nitrites and that's even after using dechlorinated tap water for top-offs and lately, for water changes too. Nonetheless, I do have some green/brown algae issues (I have to clean the glass daily, but that's about it since it doesn't grow significantly anywhere else). Anyway, my phosphates remain undetectable on the Salifert test kits (which, like all phosphate test kits, are pretty inaccurate).

My advice would be to use coral coloration and algae growth as a guide on how to adjust dosing. As mentioned already by others, stick with one system and stay consistent. You might want to keep a journal to help keep track of things.

Edit: Oh, and, I have also noticed that my skimmate is generally darker than before.

Looks like it could be some sort of favia sp.

Peristaltic pumps are efficient, but they're expensive....which may negate the relative benefits.

I don't turn anything off during regular feedings. I also feed slowly and do not dump the food into the tank.

Once in awhile, when I do directly feed the corals, I will turn off the return pump and skimmer.

I had 2x250w on my 90g. My chiller ran very minimally, but then again, I kept my temp between 78.5-81.5 w/ 77 degree ambient with two fans blowing across the bulbs.

That last one looks like a Scolymia-- is it not?

The wrasse is out and about and eating everything I put in the tank. Thanks.

Is this the Harley Davidson in Round Rock or is there one in Georgetown?

PM Sent.

And shipping is NOT free, correct?

=/

Okay, since JohnG has left reef keeping, the rest of us have a shot at making claims of the best tank. I know Danny, the Tates, the Mannings and others have great tanks, so share your FTS (full tank shot) with the rest of us noobs!

I'll snap a picture of my dinky reef when I get home tonight.

Thanks for setting this up, Mark. Btw, the razors worked amazing well.

Nope. Chui is already buying 7.

Should raise shipping more than $2

Sweet. Yay for Group Orders.

Looks like it's only $8.25 for 2 or 3 bulbs. PM me a price w/ shipping for the following:

(1) x 54W-48IN ATI Blue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent Bulb

(2) x 54W -48IN 12000K ATI Aquablue Special T5 HO Fluorescent Bulb

Would it be cost prohibitive to get 1 or 2 T5 bulbs?

PM Sent.

No further than the average hobbist's canopy.

Here's a pic from my video. The black bar on the bottom of the screen is the top of the tank.

Is the center lamp the 1000w?

My point, of course, is that coral placement is the more important consideration than simply higher wattage (and higher PAR) lamps. At some point, given excess light, coral growth rates will be negatively affected. Growth rates may be excellent under a variety of different lamps (T5s, MH, etc), assuming proper placement of corals AND proper water conditions.

Considering the upfront cost of an LED system, you're paying more and possibly getting less. All the comparisons I've seen show LED fixtures slightly trailing 20k kelvin, off-brand 250w lamps (Low PAR)-- in other words, they don't seem to hold their ground in real-world comparisons. Of course, with proper coral placement and stable water parameters, you can probably have a very healthy reef with LEDs... but a comparable T5 fixture will cost less, produce more light, give you a good variety of color options, give you excellent growth, produce minimal heat, and fit well with your canopy. Or a MH fixture... which will cost less than T5s or MHs up front, give you the best results in terms of coral growth, but produce a lot of heat (especially considering the shorter canopy). Yes, I am gunning for you to try T5s

How about creating an acrylic enclosure with LEDs inside?

Those are cool, but expensive. LEDs probably are big part of the hobby's future.

Personally, I've seen a lot of great T5 tanks lately, including my own, so I would personally recommend going that route. But I agree with Mike on the MHs-- 250w lamps are all that you need, even at 30" depth. 400w are only necessary, from what I've seen, in SPS-only tanks where there are light-demanding corals placed very deep. However, many hobbyists wish to keep an array of corals-- thus proper placement is the more important factor.

As for Vivid's use of 400w and 1000w lamps, it is very likely that they keep these lamps far from the surface of the water. This allows them to maximize light coverage, while minimizing the numbers of MH fixtures.

I have been using Revive by Two Little Fishies with very good results.

There are thousands of nudibranch species, but many of them are harmless to our corals. Of course, you could be dealing with something far more horrible... like AEFW-- hard to tell from the description alone. But, as you said, the coral does not appear stressed, so just keep a close eye on things.

Well, I've settled on a skimmer rated several times my tank's size. I'm happy and my corals are happy. I tend to disagree with Mike on a larger skimmer not being able to pull out more skimmate over a given period of time. A smaller skimmer (a smaller pump) will most likely remove less than a larger skimmer (with a larger pump), up to some maximum-- I'm sure there will be diminishing returns with larger skimmers.