BAMF_Aquatics

i've got a cnc on reserve for just this type of thing. do you have drawings i can reference for a 3d model to pass along?

that's good I'm glad you got the Cree you'll be much happier with the output. with that many colors is tighten the clusters a good deal. it will lead to the appearance of a single point light source, killing the disco effect

over all i think you're on the right track, but of its a $30 difference up front for the best leds you can get vs. replacing them all if you're unsatisfied is really more that a $30 diff. i can't stress to people enough that even though you may save some money right now its really in your own best interest to get CREE leds for your primary lights they are not only brighter but have a better qc process. the binning is much more accurate, so achieveing a desired look is easily done when you know your colors before you build it. i make custom light fixtures for folks here in houston and have had great success putting down some serious light in beautiful spectrums. i honestly think your best bet on a 75 is going to be using xml whites if you run them up to 2.3A (meanwell 90-27 drivers) they can still be dialed back to fit your needs but can also produce tons more light for alot less money. on a 75 you'd only need 8 with no optics, from there just cluster 2-3 xt-e per white they can be pushed to just over 1A when actively cooled. and that buys you less leds to need to run, and alows more space on your heatsink for adding reds and cyans (which should be very closely placed this will avoid any blending issues.) you'd only need a pair of r/c for evey 18x18" if you add true violets don't expect a drastic change when the other lights are on as they are approching the limits of our visable spectrum. but they will add tons of par and a nice actinic kick. i know some companies that make violets have them made with 60deg built in optics which in your case works out well to help those penetrate the water.also when running violets try not to push them over 600mA they are designed to run at or below 80°C where crees run best at 85° so thats something to watch out for. also be sure to add about .5-1 tv per rb so there is enough of them there to make a difference. (my personal tank runs .5 tv per rb) i like your heatsink set up just be sure to add a few fans on top to help pull heat away as you don't have a lot of mass to hold the temps you need to actively cool the fins to mantain stability. good luch with your build. btw what modeling program are you using? it looks great.

not bad. just if you get stuck by one (trust me it happens... alot.) use duct tape a couple of yanks and they spines come right out. if its irritated a good soaking in vinegar stops any irritation