ClarkiiCircus

Keep in mind a lot of school shut off the A/C for parts of vacations when the school isn't being used. In the winter, it probably wouldn't matter, but in the middle of summer they might get toasty. I would check with maintenance staff to see if they turn off the A/C, and with what frequency. Just because the heat will affect rates of evap and salinity first, then maybe the inhabitants (including bacteria on the rocks) if it got TOO hot.

hahahahaha just don't tell them you're going to use them for food (because they're more nutritious than feeders), or put them in SW. They get all pissed and won't let you buy them and call it cruelty... *cough-jakedoza-cough*

I think we could solve this problem. Stick a Landry's next to the subpar aquarium: instead of the guise that it is an actual "public aquarium" with educational value/ ethical treatment/ etc... add a shark train and a ferris wheel, and we're good to freakin' go. That's what they do down here- Kemah aquarium, houston aquarium, etc.

Association of Zoos and Aquariums. They have a certain set of standards that a facility must reach in order to be accredited. Things like providing animal enrichment/mental stimulation, feeding restaurant quality foods to ensure healthy animals, community outreach and education, and other general management practices that exceed professional expectations. The guidelines and AZA standards tend to keep the animals, and guests happy. It's how I would recommend choosing a reliable and environmentally sound aquarium or zoo to visit. I've never been disappointed by an AZA facility.

Long story short, I don't trust it unless it's AZA.

We've hypo treated a purple tang and a blue tang in addition to a hospital tank treatment with copper- I repeat in ADDITION TO (not at the same time). They both turned out ok. The key to hypo treat imo is that there is no prescribed time, watch, and wait, and make sure the fish isn't extremely stressed (via gill rate). For the purple tang, times seemed to be up to 10 mins, while the blue tang seemed fairly stressed around 5 mins. I think people tend to read "10 minute dip" and leave a fish in a state of stress for the full 10 minutes, which seems counter productive. Just my 2 cents :]

I would agree with all the aforementioned things. The weird thing is mandarins *usually* are pretty resilient to ich due to a different mucous chemistry/slime coat than many other fishes. You must have something else going on. I would remove all fish for a period of ~2 months. Treat the fish with medicine and treat the tank with a little extra TLC- NOT AN ACTUAL TREATMENT. I would bump up water changes to remove any toxins and excess nutrient levels that may be hanging around after flatworm death. A fallow tank for 2 months should cause anything that requires a host to die off. For the fish I would recommend the Dr. G's food- alternating both the anti-bacterial and anti-parasitic just to cover all bases. Freshwater dips on the hardier fish may also be a good idea, because if it is an external parasite thats bothering them, this FW dips may prove effective.

We turn the pumps and lights off before "dark" that evening. Then, darken the whole room to "accelerate" the hatch. i.e., prevent any light from interfering with the normal hatch. Then, we set a flashlight on the corner of the tank away from the overflow, nem and other hungry dangers, and simply slowly dip a wide-mouthed cup in. Set all the babies in any tank you have set up as a growout, and voila, babies (after a little sweat, blood, and tear shed i may add). Fill the tank back up to replace cupped out water, turn on the lights and pumps back on, and enjoy!

We always collect the first batch from a pair because theyre the fewest in number and strength (as the parents get "better" at procreation, per say); this gives you the advantage of knowing that it will be the hardest batch you will ever conquer. If you fail, no big, but if you succeed, you know you can succeed when they get healthier and more numerous.

We definitely make our own- a $10 trip to the fish market will last you literally 6 months of homemade food. We tend to make more carnivore based diets and supplement with some veggies as well. Watch out though, sure does make a smelly mess in the kitchen. Gelatin is the key to make it like commercial fishfood and not a frozen lump.

Or, if you become a premium member, borrow the aiptazer! It worked like a charm in our tank- took a while to figure out how to use it, and to actually kill all those buggers, but it's far more reliable than hoping an animal eats them.

No other contaminants, eh? Drinking water (and the "potable" water that comes from your tap) has a huge variety of contaminants in it, which are largely affiliated with the kind of water (surface, ground well, purch surface, etc) you receive. And, trace amounts are usually ok. But, some water systems (often broken down by neighborhood or MUD) are consistent offenders. Usually these range from bacteria (coliforms, e.coli) to heavy metals (arsenic, copper, cyanide, to name a few), pesticides/herbicides (dioxin), and VOC's (TTHM, toluene, etc). The full list of contaminants measured by the EPA in nearly every drinking water system is found here: http://www.epa.gov/enviro/facts/sdwis/water_contaminants.html#tthmstotaltrihalomethanes

A good rule of thumb, if you ever feel uncomfortable is to ask when resins, membranes, and other barriers were last replaced. Depending on how much water they use/sell, the membranes and resins can last as little as a month. But, Juiceman had a very good point- "The city of Austin" really doesnt cover all of the water sources. Even things like the piping laid in your own neighborhood, and your local wastewater treatment plant can affect the quality of the water you're receiving. For a good time, check the EPA safe drinking water act website and interactive module to see if your neighborhood (or that of a local fish store) has any levels out of standard range.

Dr. G's- Rivercity also sells it. Works like a charm, and is actually medicine vs garlic which is more like having tomato soup and ginger ale when you feel sick. Just make sure you dont overfeed or cause too much to fly all over the tank, because if large chunks are left on corals, it can cause irritation. NOTE: I once had a clown shove a huge chunk into the anemone, which promptly at it, and the anemone was fine. So don't be too worried.

UV sterilizers will remove small particles that are in the water column near the pump. This would include microalgaes, bacteria (both beneficial and bad) , and some suspended solids if turbidity was high for any reason. Because bubble algae tends to be on the bottom on rocks unless knocked off, and pretty large (visible to the human eye) it wont really help with that problem. You may need to look into an emerald crab or other solutions.

As for ich, its a huge debate, just like everything else in the hobby- you will hear varying opinions. Yes, it brings in bacteria and parasites. But, only those close enough to the intake pump, and not those attached to substrates. So, theoretically, it could remove some of the parasites, when they were hatching, and very close to the pump (somewhat unlikely, as they tend to nest near your fishes' dens and hiding holes). But theoretically, yes, some could be removed. I think for most people, its more of a peace of mind/ placebo than anything else. I will admit, I used one when I had an ich outbreak- but then again I also left my tank fallow/without fish for 2 and a half months while it was running in order to break the ich lifecycle.

I think if youre having both of these problems, it could indicate larger problems in your tank or system. Fish generally get ich when they are extremely stressed out or around fish with the parasite for a period of time (similar to us getting the flu or a cold). Bubble algae is generally a hitchhiker on a rock or coral that you buy or bring in to your tank without seeing it. A simple solution to both of these problems (generally befor ethey start, but it will also help now, mostly with the ich) is a QT set up- observe your fish and ensure they are not affected/sick, and stock slowly to prevent stress to your other inhabitants. Dip and QT corals to prevent the introduction of nuisance algae. I know its hard, and sounds like a pain, and yes sometimes livestock might die while in QT (due to sickness in a stable QT set up, or due to a poor QT set up's stress), but its worth it in the long run.

In addition to what CKYUV said, carbon has the potential to remove active ingredients in medication.

Generally, people would tell you NEVER to use anti-biotics in your tank. it has nothing to do with the normal bacteria, but a lot to do with sensitive membranes that inverts, and corals possess, which causes these organisms to be inadvertently over-medicated, when you really meant to medicate your fish. Also, if you had carbon filters and ran antibiotics in your tank, chances are you removed the medication before it caused a die off.

depends on if your just setting up a back up QT, medicating or doing a preventive treatment. If your medicating or a preventive treatment the answer is neither. If your just setting up a tank separate from your display to observe new fish, use both and water changes from your display. IMO.

Not going to lie, it sounds like you're going to end up going through a lot of extra trouble. My suggestion would be to buy a spare heater (plus you never know when you'll need an extra in case of an emergency), and a spare pump. And mix up the amount you need in front of your tank, then siphon out about 5 gallons at a time (which is a manageable amount to carry) with the pumps turned off so they never run dry, and dispose of it. Then, when you have your full amount taken out, hold clear tubing to the pump mixing the salt water in your reservoir, and run it to your sump. Then watch water zoom out of your reservoir into the tank. voila.

Plus, the degree of "warm" that your tank feels, VS hot water from a tap, VS the true temperature is insanely different. By using what "feels" to be warm water, you may actually be adding 90 degree water to your tank. Heater, with a set temperature is the best way to go

MAXSPECT RAZR!

Its supposedly insanely hard. They eat hardly anything as adults, so imagine how hard they are to feed as larvae and juveniles and keep in mind that every time they dance, theyre not releasing eggs. I think these are advanced breeder for sure, as ORA is really the only ones with any success commercially versus the kabillion breeders of clowns and damsels and other demersal spawners.

they will release the eggs into the water column. she may be bearing eggs, but they wouldnt be fertile unless he fertilized them at the surface.

yep, claimed our torch before. Take it out, clip off all of the affected heads, and hope you can save the others in QT. Also, i wouldnt recommend adding another torch to your tank for a while, as the bacteria may still be present.

I was going to ask, are you worried about it being cold or hot? Mine is near 80-82 and everything is happy

I like stores that will special order for you. A few here in Houston REFUSE to order from ORA...seriously? Especially special orders if you want to order from a place that aquacultures or breeds VS catching.

Also, stores where the owner is frequently there is key. They see the stock and care about it, VS just ordering it and then selling it.

River City has the different colored airline. Its actually for gases, but I think its the same dimensions.