SoggyDollar

I'm offering to sell/trade to a good home a ~2 year old tank raised Zaire Frontosa (or Gibberosa) Kampama collection region (similar if not identical to Moba). I believe he is a male, but not 100% sure. He is about 3.5 - 4" long, great color, bars are solid. I acquired him from my cousin who bought a group of Kampama frontosas from Lone Star Exotics a couple of years ago at the same time as I did. My cousin decided to go a different direction with his aquarium so I added this one and others to my colony. Well unfortunately this one wasn't welcome in my colony and he had a rough first night (which is why I believe he's a male, my alpha male didn't like him at all, and the more pronounced hump on his forehead). However, he's been recovering in my sump for several weeks now and doing great! Fins are mostly grown back, eating great (almost from my hand). So, I think it's time to give him some space and find him a home. I will trade for another Tanganyikan cichlid/catfish. Let me know what you have! Otherwise cash will do. $80 OBO

...where can someone buy one of these so called "slogan machines"? and are they reef safe?

In all seriousness I think you make some valid points.

Harbor Freight. It may break after one or two slogans, but for only $1.99...

Everybody knows the electricity that runs out of an Apex is much sweeter than that which runs out any other device. Advantage Apex! JK

I think this is a great idea and if done right, should be an annual thing. ARC Pico Challenge or something, I'm no slogan machine.

Just chiming in here. Maybe there should be some clearly defined set of rules that covers all costs including using already owned equip, unbelievably crazy deals, how grey areas are handled, etc. One more thing that I think would make a difference before it starts is how and what is going to be judged. Say for example, equipment gets 10 pts, over all aquarium creativity 30 pts, looks and health of livestock 50 pts., budget remaining 10 pts., or whatever. That way peeps know what to do for points. Say you may go over budget but point deductions, DIY equipment gets bonus points... Just ideas.

I'd like the $40 piece if ya don't mind.

Hey Richard,

It was nice meeting you the other day. Your reef tank setup is very impressive in the pictures and even more in person! (not to mention your koi pond) One day when I grow up... Subscribed!

Hey Robb,

I would like some cheato and anthelia. When are you available? Thanks!

First off, sorry for hijacking this thread but thanks for the replies. Secondly, good news, I put the lawnmower in my quaratine tank with a parasite dose of meds. He is doing fine now. He plumped right back up in a day's time. I believe he just ran out of food in the DT. It is pretty clean, not much algae and I'm running GFO now. So, I'm going to find him another home. Thanks again!

Oh yeah, the first fish I lost in this tank several months ago was a harptail blenny. Had pretty much the same symptoms.

My lawnmower blenny did the same thing. Had good energy up until the last couple of days. Just kept getting skinny. I actually think at one point he started to gain then lost it again even though he'd eat. He was about 6 yrs old and that's about the beginning of "old age" for them with some living 9 yrs.

Wierd though, just over a week later my 2 yr old copperband butterfly had the same thing. Didn't fight it as long though. I thought it was the blenny's old age until it happened to my copperband, who was always happy and a good eater.

All other fish are fine.

This is the exact same thing that is happening to my tank right now, except the other way around. I just lost my copperband butterfly two days ago. He was just getting skinnier and skinnier and eventually would not eat the last couple of days. I freshwater dipped him and quarantined him. I treated for parasites but, it was too late. Now, my lawnmower blenny is looking real emaciated and doesn't seem to be eating. I've tried feeding green marine algae... nothing.

What should I do?

I like this idea. I wonder if we can all time our salt needs to every 6 months or so and have a large salt mix group buy! Someone get on this

You get a 10% discount at RCA!! Wish I knew that three months ago. Nice!

Anyway, I'd go ahead and sneak a 29g in there. I'd doubt they would say anything or even care. If so, argue five other dorm mates contributed their available 5 gallons to your tank. Hook'em!

Yeah, what ^^ said.

I'll get in line for the mag 7.

So, how solid are all the "Pending" sales?

Would you be willing to part it out? I'd be interested in the PH probe and energy bar. Thanks

I read on Neptune's website, the Apex Jr. has a wavemaker built in. Is this just not true? It says:

WaveMaker

Thanks Jen! Good news. I found a couple more but I read about them and they are nothing more than an eye soar at worst, but can be beneficial. Thanks again!

What is this white anemone looking thing? It is white with tiny tentacles and a fat neck. Is it problematic?

Looking for a stand for my 29 gallon quarantine tank, nothing fancy, but not junky. It is not going to be on display but it shouldn't look like trash either. Let me know what you have. Thanks!

That is some good info Timfish. I like your style, thanks!

I am currently running a Blueline titanium heater element controlled by a commercial grade Ranco single stage ETC. IME, titanium heaters last about two years if you are lucky. They have a safety mechanism in them that if it reaches a certain temp, they shut down... for good. I guess that mechanism has about a two year timer as well

Is this still available?

Thanks. Do I need to keep one or more fish in the QT at all times to keep the bacteria count up? Or is there a way around that, like adding food every once in a while? Do I need to medicate all fish that I purchase or just observe them? If medication if preferred, which meds? I read a thread on another forum, a guy suggested you keep the QT at hypo-salinity (dropping the salinity to 1.009?) to treat all fish of potential ick. Agreed? Not only that, he suggested (and claims to have done this for 20+ years without a loss) you don't even acclimated the fish to the low salinity, just temperature, then dump them in the hypo-salinity QT. The salinity shock will kill the parisites but the fish will be fine... Agreed?

What! people have differences of opinion in this hobby! Noooo, tell me it isn't so! I'm inclined to think it's a good idea to keep a quarantine tank going until you've got your tank stocked and are no longer adding anything so that would be the first year or so. If you need to set up one real quick I would use some rock, sand and about 10% to 50% water from your existing tank the more the better but over 50% is probably wasted effort. To monitor how fast it's cycling check the ammonia, pH, alk and calcium against your existing tank, pH and alk should be close or higher. If the pH in the QT is lower than your display it's indicating higher CO2 levels in your QT (or vica versa). To get a good idea what how the QT is cycling check the ammonia of the new water before adding it (go ahead and add it whatever the reading, my R.O. usually reads about 1 ppm) this is a benchmark to help see if your tank is cycling or cycled. Check the ammonia in your display tank it should be 0 and this is one of your benchmarks. As soon as you have filled up the quarintine tank with water, rock and sand check the pH and ammonia of your QT then wait 24 hours and check both again (you can add alk to that list if you want). What ever ammonia level you read in the new saltwater should have been diluted with the water from your display tank and after 24 hours should be all gone. If your tank is going through the typical cycle 24 hours after adding the water you should see HIGHER ammonia levels than you started with and you have to wait until it drops to zero to use the tank. If the rock, sand and water from your display tank did it's job you should see zero in your QT after 24 hours. I would encourage the use of a UV sterilizer but you'll find differing opinions. For more on QT search previous threads here or look online there's a lot of info out there.

Shocking, I know. Thanks for the reply. I'm going to set up QT tank tomorrow using your mostly your advice Is sand necessary?

So, how quick can one set up a quarantine tank or hospital tank? I've heard/read many varying opinions. I would like to have a QT around for new fish. But, I think I need one a little more immediate for my Blenny. What are the opinions here? Do you keep a QT running all the time? Do you just set it up for new fish? How do you keep it from cycling and killing the fish?