SoggyDollar

I'm offering to sell/trade to a good home a ~2 year old tank raised Zaire Frontosa (or Gibberosa) Kampama collection region (similar if not identical to Moba). I believe he is a male, but not 100% sure. He is about 3.5 - 4" long, great color, bars are solid. I acquired him from my cousin who bought a group of Kampama frontosas from Lone Star Exotics a couple of years ago at the same time as I did. My cousin decided to go a different direction with his aquarium so I added this one and others to my colony. Well unfortunately this one wasn't welcome in my colony and he had a rough first night (which is why I believe he's a male, my alpha male didn't like him at all, and the more pronounced hump on his forehead). However, he's been recovering in my sump for several weeks now and doing great! Fins are mostly grown back, eating great (almost from my hand). So, I think it's time to give him some space and find him a home. I will trade for another Tanganyikan cichlid/catfish. Let me know what you have! Otherwise cash will do. $80 OBO

Regardless of all the joking around, I still want mine vacuum packed and also wrapped with a bow because my feelings were hurt.

*cue victoly- insert clever gif*

Can you vacuum pack mine too? I'll be in town this weekend and would like to pick it up sometime convenient for you.

Thanks for all the replies. She has found a new home already. You all are awesome! Thanks

GONE

I need to re-home a female queen/purple anthias today. She is always hiding in my tank and is getting skinny. She needs to go in a tank with more anthias and may do better. I would like a frag of something in trade but it would not be necessary.

PM or reply here. Again, I need to do this today if possible. I'm going out of town for the week. Thanks!

Like the title states. In good working order of course. PM or respond here. Thx

BTW, mine eventually died as well.

Sounds like a sabae anemone. I had one that my pep shrimp kept messing with. I found it upside down several times, one time with what looked like the shrimp munching on its foot... Do you have peppermint shrimp?

1.75 lbs. of pure Minnesotan high capacity GFO for ~$40. I'm in. There should be a monthly BRS group buy... or quarterly.

...where can someone buy one of these so called "slogan machines"? and are they reef safe?

In all seriousness I think you make some valid points.

Harbor Freight. It may break after one or two slogans, but for only $1.99...

Great stuff. The moral of the story is... Keep a voltage probe in the sump and plugged into the same GFCI plug as all other potentially shocking equipment. Right?

Do the average powerheads and return pumps really produce enough induction to cause a harmful shock?

Everybody knows the electricity that runs out of an Apex is much sweeter than that which runs out any other device. Advantage Apex! JK

I think this is a great idea and if done right, should be an annual thing. ARC Pico Challenge or something, I'm no slogan machine.

Just chiming in here. Maybe there should be some clearly defined set of rules that covers all costs including using already owned equip, unbelievably crazy deals, how grey areas are handled, etc. One more thing that I think would make a difference before it starts is how and what is going to be judged. Say for example, equipment gets 10 pts, over all aquarium creativity 30 pts, looks and health of livestock 50 pts., budget remaining 10 pts., or whatever. That way peeps know what to do for points. Say you may go over budget but point deductions, DIY equipment gets bonus points... Just ideas.

PM sent

I have a mag drive 18 on a piece of inert packing foam and can't complain. My Reef Octopus protein skimmer pump is louder. On a smaller tank, I've had an eheim as well and thought it was a little loud until I padded it. So I'd say whatever you do, put a pad under it

Another thought, try sound deadening materials around the area you have the sump.

You must use GE silicone 1. The GE 2 version has the mildew resistant stuff in it. VERY BAD FOR THE TANK!!!!!!. I would let it totally dry then peel it off if you can. Just clean it real good before you apply the other silicone.

Bingo!

But, I'm also a little skeptical of silicone 1 as far as being a long lasting caulk for below waterline waterproof seals. Read the fine print on the back of the tube. I try to use special tank caulk now for important seals, ASI makes a good one.

Good call on the cats and calvus!! I'll ask Sarah to bring some with her at the next meetup. I've heard congo tetras make good dither fish.

I wasn't big on fronties before, I've been in new world cichlids but this guy is awesome. I'm looking around my house trying to figure out where to put a 210. Do they have cool behavior in groups?

In my research, it is definitely preferred to give them lots of space. They can grow to ~14". They are also a deep water species so don't like a lot of bright light. They are a schooling fish so I guess they prefer to be in groups where they establish hierarchies. Also, there are quite a few variants of fronts many of which aren't readily available and are expensive. I can't really tell what variant you have there, but do a little searching around and asking on frontosa forums. There is a lot of info about them and passionate people who keep them. They might be able to tell you what that is and could point you in the right direction as far as proper care. But, to answer your question, yes they are very cool in groups and might eat a fish that can fit in their mouth, usually at night.

FG I think gets them custom from a shop in dallas. If you're interested I'll get the shops contact info.

I went back to check on Gill Murray today. That's a good looking Frontosa. I might buy him after the tour is done...

Can y'all think of some other fish that could work in there that he won't tear apart? He's a big fish but there is still room for some dithers.

Fronts go well with Altolamprologus Calvus and Petricola catfish. They are all from Lake Tanganyika. I used to keep a school of Frontosa Moba in a 210 gallon rift lake tank. Very fun fish to keep with lots of individual personality.

Back wax... $15

Water park ticket... $25

Doing an 80 foot backside rail slide in a banana hammock... hilarious!

Thanks (Bio)cubed and victoly! You guys went above and beyond to help a stranger, especially Bio. I hope karma will repay you if I can't in the future.

I'm getting a head ache reading my own thread and all the acronyms. I didn't know one had to be a software engineering to run a tank controller...

I do understand what is being said as far as setting the Apex back to DHCP. I believe it has been established this would require a display module. Right? Then "shrink" the router's DHCP range but keep it below 192.168.1.255. Then I assign the Apex an I.P. outside of that range but below ...255. Right so far? Then port forward (which I'll have some more questions, stay tuned).

Ok, let's start fresh here. McJudge has the right idea. I'm gonna go kindergarten here, don't take offense, I'm just trying to give you a step by step. I'll flesh this out in an edit when I get home and can access my uverse residential gateway.

1) You need to access your router (usually uverse is 192.168.1.254, type it into your browser).

2) Find the section that sets your router's IP (it should currently read 192.168.1.1)

3) Change it to 192.168.0.1

4) Change your gateway to 192.168.0.1

5) You may want to reboot your router at this point.

6) Plug your apex in via an ethernet cable to your uverse RG (residential gateway or modem)

7) Type in http://apex to your broswer

hopefully at this point you can access your apex and tweak. if this doesnt work, for steps 3 & 4, try 192.168.1.1 in both fields. Let us know!

I have a question teach. Why do you change the rounter's IP to ...0.? What is that going to do for the Apex? Also, my Apex connects via a internet bridge. So it is wireless. Do I need to hard line it to the router?

I'm getting a head ache reading my own thread and all the acronyms. I didn't know one had to be a software engineering to run a tank controller...

I do understand what is being said as far as setting the Apex back to DHCP. I believe it has been established this would require a display module. Right? Then "shrink" the router's DHCP range but keep it below 192.168.1.255. Then I assign the Apex an I.P. outside of that range but below ...255. Right so far? Then port forward (which I'll have some more questions, stay tuned).

You will need the display to do a manual adjustment of the IP address. Sounds like the ip you used is outside your subnet mask, thats why it wont connect. Your router sees it but it is treating it like an external network machine. Can you ping it in command prompt? Or Telnet into it?

I've heard of these terms "ping" and "telnet" but again am not familiar. Also, I can't do anything until next weekend. I work out of town. How do you "ping" something? I'm great at following instructions and am a quick learner (relatively speaking).

Bio³ , I'll have to look you up when I get back into town. I really appreciate the offer.

I may take you up on the offer Bio³

Derrick, I went out on a limb when I assigned it 255... I'm going to do what you said when I get it back online. As far as MAC addresses, I've seen those around but wasn't smert enuff to know what they mean and too ignerent to look it up.

Thanks for all the advice. I tried hooking my laptop directly up to the Apex and no go (BTW, Apex Jr. does not have a screen built in). I think you have to change some setting in a laptop in order for it to speak directly to the Apex without a router. So, I then tried to hook the Apex up to an old router and the computer to the same router. I could see the router had a device attached with the IP address 192.168.1.255 but could not talk to it when I entered the address in the search bar nor would http://apex work. So, unless I can change the IP address in the Apex through a display module, I'll have to do a factory reset. Does anybody know if you can change the IP address through a display module? Can you do a factory reset without a display module?

I do have the Unofficial Guide. There was a part that says to assign the apex its own IP address that is outside the range of the router's dynamic range. So I did and rebooted it. Now I can't access it. I assigned it 192.168.1.255. I'm afraid that is an invalid IP address and that is why I can't access it. So I thought resetting it to factory settings is the only fix. I'd rather not have to do that since I've done a lot of programming to it already.

I ATT u-verse that has "2wire" modem and a wireless access point. I'm running MS Windows on my laptop and have a Netgear wireless bridge hooked up to the Apex.

Hello everybody! Anyone want to help me set up my Apex Jr. I'm using a wireless bridge and have ATT uverse service. I had it all running but continued to have problems accessing remotely. I recently changed from TW to ATT and had to reconfig. In doing so, I tried changing the IP address to the Jr. and now I can't access it at all. Need some help and possibly a factory reset using the Neptune Sys. display unit which I do not have.

I'm in North Austin off Parmer and Mopac. Anybody interested? I have beer.

Thanks!

Sale pending.