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thedude

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Posts posted by thedude

  1. Ok sorry it took so long to get back to ya'll.

    Dylan and Gabe it's fine if you pay me at the store just make sure that I remember to bring the putty that day. Ya'll both have my number if yo'd rather just meet me somewhere.

    Final Count:

    Hammondegge: 1 tube - paid

    Aquadoc: 3 tubes - paid

    Austinvines: 1 tube

    GKarshens: 2 tubes

    Fishypets: 3 tubes

    Thedude: 2 tubes - paid

  2. Well I have an alkalinity test get (just a stupid one) and if I get real interested I'll go get it Salifert tested by one of my friends. That being said, I also have a carbonate hardness test made by seachem that doubles as a magnesium test. Pretty useful little test kit.

  3. One confusing thing to remember is that carbonate hardness and alkalinity are not the same thing. Now, I need to read more into this as well but alkalinity is the ability for calcium and magnesium to stay in suspension in the water column. Carbonate hardness is the ability to keep PH constant. Might be worth asking Randy over at RC.

  4. Sorry for the short notice guys but I'm getting in some of the Deltec reef putty and wanted to know if anyone wanted any. This stuff is purple, doesn't burn frags, and is the best reef epoxy available.

    The cost is 12 dollars a tube.

    The order is being shipped Tuesday so I will not accept any orders past midnight Monday.

    My paypal address is [email protected]

    John

  5. Mine is 6.5 - 7.5 after coming out the RO/DI. It makes sense you're seeing a high PH as Austin water is extremely hard (limestone aquifer) and the ph out of the tap is between 10-12.

    *note

    This is why you shouldn't drink RO/DI water, the PH is far too acidic and bad for our teeth... plus it tastes metallic.

  6. Hate to say it but after seeing the picture it does indeed look bacterial. I think what is happening, is that for whatever reason, they are not happy and dying and you're seeing the opportunistic bacteria on the spots of death. What kind of lighting do you have? I've burned GSP to death before not acclimating them to halide lighting. Try moving them down as far as possible with a medium amount of flow.

    The dips we tried wouldn't work if the tissue is indeed dying as the bacteria have a seemingly infinite supply of fuel until the mat dissolves.

    John

  7. That's just time and flow mainly. It is a long polyped sarco, so the polyps are definitely longer than normal but it's also as healthy as possible.

    I might suggest two sources, one would be to talk to Denton at AA and get a frag from his home. The other would be that ORA regularly sells green sarcophyton frags which are just gorgeous and run around 40 dollars.

  8. As others have said, that's exactly what BTA's like to do. Find a crevice to wedge their foot into then stretch out towards the light.

    On another note I was looking at your parameters, your CA is a little high and your KH is a little low. Try adding something to bring your alkalinity up and lay off the calcium supplements for a little while.

    John

  9. If the tissue is dissolving and the actual mat stinks, then the colony is dying... otherwise it's in shock mode (which as Robert said can last a couple of weeks).

    Windowscreen or eggcrate would shield the GSP from the high light and as Robert said, they do like flow.

    John

  10. Here are my thoughts-

    I've heard alot of good things about the Radium bulbs but every good thing I've read is on a magnetic ballast, and the bulb is being overdriven.

    On the T5's-

    I think you'll lose alot of color switching the T5 bulbs out. No metal halide bulbs over the spike at 420 that a true actinic flourescent bulb can add.

    And if I may... why didn't you like both the 10 and 12k's?

  11. I run at 78-79 and didn't think it was possible for them to reproduce in display. Would love to see a picture but this is really interesting stuff Robert. Imagine a refugium connected to a brine shrimp "rearer". Everyday, the babies float out and your tank is fed natural food!

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