Chato Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Hello All. This weekend I am going to be fusing about 20 lbs of dead rock together. Before I start I was wondering what is the best method or glue to use? I have purchased some Loctite PL Premium which is a Polyurethane Construction Adhesive which is water resistant. I also picked up some Locktite PL PL375 which is a water resistant adhesive as well. Any thoughts or feedback is greatly appreciated. From the research I have already done I was just advised to stay away from kitchen & bath products because of the chemicals used for the mildew resistance isn't good for the livestock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshdmartin Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 as far as i know pl is bad news to!! use some sort of marine epoxy.. idk!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robb in Austin Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 In absence of a marine safe epoxy, I'd recommend zip ties. Skip the glues, I wouldn't risk it. Might call RCA, Aquatek, Aquadome, or even Kingfish to see if any of them have epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caferacermike Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Most all of the 2 part stick epoxies sold for $5 at HomeDepot are non toxic and are considered reef safe. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 2 part (in the syringe like container) are reef safe after they cure and set. I would use a mixture of zip ties and epoxy in a dry environment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robb in Austin Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Why did I know that Mike would have a very good and appropriate answer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chato Posted September 9, 2010 Author Share Posted September 9, 2010 Has anybody used EMACO R400 and Acryl 60? It was recommended by Marcorocks as a way to bond rocks together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caferacermike Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Robbs, rep me if you like the answer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robb in Austin Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Done Mikey! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+ACampbell Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 Is that Aquamend stuff seen on TV safe for aquariums? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chato Posted September 11, 2010 Author Share Posted September 11, 2010 I have decided against epoxies and have chosen Quikrete Hydraulic Water-Stop Cement. It is a cement derived from a Portland type cement that consists mostly of a limestone base. I found a good article from the Delaware Reef Club and have included a excerpt below. The mortar turns into a putty like substance and has the ability to cure in and out of water. It is also aquarium safe. White portland cement is made from raw materials containing little or no iron or manganese. (The substances that give gray cement its color.) Thorite often used in online articles is hydraulic cement that will have a faster cure time. Commonly branded as Quikcrete, it cost more the typical type II Portland, but the cure time is faster. Certified for use in wells and cisterns, it is safe for aquarium use. The water-stop cement isn't different from standard portland as far as porosity goes. The property that makes this product ideal for waterproofing is the quick setting time and the ability to place it on a wet area, and it will still cure. Polymer-modified mixtures (sealbond) are also stronger, bond better, with no shrinkage or cracking. None of these features alter the pore structure of the mix. The basic difference in these mixes is rapid setting mixtures can be used in a couple of days, with no PH swings, while standard portland mixes require a month dry curing and a month of wet curing (purging). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caferacermike Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 My only real question is why all this effort? I've never glued any of my rocks together. Thoughtful planning and testing made sure it was all locked together in the tnak. The only person I know that has a problem with their aquascaping is MarkC, but then again he is Mark. Most everything he does turns out badly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chato Posted September 11, 2010 Author Share Posted September 11, 2010 I recently bought 27lbs of dead rock. It contained many small and medium pieces and I am making some of those pieces into the shape and size I want. It beats going all over town to find the exact rocks I am looking for. That and if it works I can make some pretty sweet designs in the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caferacermike Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 Cool. I just wanted a reason to point out that MCallahan FAILS at aquascaping. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisfowler99 Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 Cool. I just wanted a reason to point out that MCallahan FAILS at aquascaping. Repped you for this one too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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