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Mighty Mite RO/DI system


diabeetus

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i ordered a mighty mite 3 step ro/do system (50gpd) and i read some testimonials on it and everything seemed all dandy b4 i ordered it. its just for my 14g so i dint need a big fancy one. i was just wondering if anyone had used one or had one and liked/hated it.

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Honestly, it's hard to have a really good or bad RO system. Everything depends on the filters: your prefilters, your membrane, etc. The majority of the RO systems used in this hobby have standardized components. If you ever outgrow your 50gpd membrane, chances are you can easily swap it out with a 75, or 100gpd membrane down the road. Of course, you may have a system with proprietary components, in which case the main problem will be with buying replacement filters.

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The important things are that your membrane is a Dow Filmtech or it's probably not worth running, and that the DI canister is a genuine upflow design with the DI resin contained in it's own compartment. The DI cans that lay on their sides next to the membrane are basically worthless. The water will quickly channel over the beads instead of being forced through them.

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I have a water general, RODI system I picked up off of ebay. My DI filters (2) are both on their sides. it uses a powder Green color changing DI resin. Supposed to be nuclear grade. Did I make a good choice or is my rodi a piece of junk

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NO you didnt buy a piece of sh__... I bought the same one off of ebay 100gpd 6 stage, its fine in my opinion that they lay down. When the resin is exhausted just REALY pack the 2 with new resin tightly. The problem i found with standing them up is it creates an air pocket in the resin so i put mine back to the stock location laying down.

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i read that the lower the gpd the better because you dont want to have too much pressure and "rush" the proccess. is this true? or does that depend on the membrane and other components/filtration? i mean o guess if you have better components than you can run it a little quicker

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I think rejection is maintained above 98%, assuming your prefilters do their job and don't allow chlorine into the membrane. Also, there's the issue of depleting your prefilters and membranes more quickly if you run a higher pressure.

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  • 1 month later...

The beauty of the Filmtec brand membranes is that they are rated at a lower water pressure (50 psi) than the other brands (60 to 65 psi). The factory spec rejection rates of the Filmtec membranes commonly used in this hobby are:

50 gpd: 98%

75 gpd: 98%

100 gpd: 90%

The membranes will perform better at higher pressures, but you don't want to exceed the maximum working pressure of any component in your system, so we typically recommend that folks with a booster pump dial the pump in at no more than 90 psi. Believe it or not, the weak link in the systems (in terms of standing up to high pressure) is often the clear housings.

Russ

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