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T5 Sps Tanks in Ausitn area


Mike M.

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I have been fiddling around with SPS and reef tanks for a number of years now and find the range of opinions and change of fashions in reef keeping some of the most interesting part of the hobby. I have been dismissive of T5 lighting for a while as a die hard metal halide users, but as I have reviewed T5 tanks on Reef Central over the last six months or so, I think my die hard stance is developing cracks.

I am interested in not only talking to operators of, but also seeing T5 SPS tanks here in the Austin area. I want to hear first hand accounts of tanks that were set up as T5 initially or were orginally Metal Halide tanks that were converted to T5. Conversely, any reefers that had T5's and decided to go back to old school and retrofitted with metal halide?

I would like to hear about experiences with heat management, coral growth, acclimation. Throw the works at me.

I made the upgrade so to speak from 250W PFO mini pendants last year to 400W's in LumenBrights. Light canons for sure, but as I look at the color in these T5 tanks, I just keep thinking that maybe, just maybe, there is a better way. So maybe I've opened up a Pandora's box of opinions here. I don't know if I'll set my 180 up as a T5 tank, but it sure is becoming tempting based on the tank setup threads I have been reading.

Let me know what you think and if there is someone that wants to show off their setup, I'd love to come visit sometime when it is convenient.

Mike

FTS3.jpg

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wow...really pretty.

After talking with Vivid aquariums yesterday, I'm considering going up to 400W. They said 250's just didn't get it done for them so they run 400's and 1000's!!!

I'd be interested to hear about T5 successes as well. I know fishy pets runs T5's on his SPS tank and is getting good growth and color.

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The more I learn about all this and the longer I tweak the chemistry of my rig, the more I believe that this games is well more complicated than just PAR and K value on lights, air volume drawn through a skimmer, and gph of flow. That is why I am considering leaving metal halides behind and running a T5 tank. If you read through the Sonny's Rimless thread in the SPS section at Reef Central, you'll see that he is a biology over technology sort of guy. Not a Zeo nut and not an equipment dude either. Nice blend of simply what works for him. I currently am running the Poly Lab system and feel that it has helped my biology tremendously. It is with that experience that I have begun to see value in this sort of approach with the T5's. The lights alone probably won't make the setup run, but it seems to be an important element in the whole enchilada.

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I have the current sundial t5 set up. Im very happy with it. The price was right but the bulbs that come with it a junk. I changed them out for giesemann bulbs. They are the best t5 bulbs you can get locally. Next time I change bulbs im going to go with AIT bulbs. Dont get me wrong the giesemann bulbs look very nice and aquatek has the hole line up and a display so you can see what the bulbs look like when on. I would stay away from the pure actinic, the par output on them is very low

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Just saw that Sonny is running the same light fixture that I am...I think I need to dig more into what lights he's running and when...

He says he started with:

4-ATI Aquablue Special

3- ATI Blue+

Wonder if that's what he stuck with.

edit: found it, I think...

FRONT

ATI Blue Plus

ATI Aqua Blue Special

ATI Aqua Blue Special

ATI Blue Plus

ATI Blue Plus

ATI Aqua Blue Special

AquaScience Blue 22k

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Google "SPS Success With Just T5s" and you'll see a forum topic I started on another site that had some good responses.

Personally, I just love the look of halides too much.

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If you decide to go with T5's I'd spend the extra money and invest in a fixture that has good reflectors. Personally I like the ATI Power Module but it's the only T5 fixture I've used. I like the even uniform spread the T5 gives you vs. metal halides. I can say as long as I have a small tank I'll stick with T5's. The only down side is it get's a little expensive when it comes time to repalce all ten bulbs. Here's a picture of my tank from a few months ago.

IMG_8061.jpg

IMG_8040.jpg

IMG_8062.jpg

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Well, I agree with you on the metal halide shimmer....but, heat and electricity cost in running the 400W's plus the chiller to support the system causes me to cringe and combine that with tanks that deliver such nice color with T5's, it just makes me restless. That's why I am looking to hear from t5 users, and certainly ones that have switched from MH to T5.

For now, I am going to follow Sonny's lead and add Iodide and Strontium additions to my heavily stocked SPS tank and see if I can kick the coral color/health/growth up a notch.

I may find that I need the microbacter 7 help given my 2" deep sandbed in my display is about 7 years old. Probably a cryptic zone mess under the live rock. I have been vacuuming the sandbed with water changes over the last month and gradually I have pulled out a load of detritus and muck. Consequently, I have noticed some improvement in both polyp extension and color in the corals.

My reeflux 12K's are 11 months old and I have new Reeflux 20K's coming in. I am guessing that spectrum and PAR degradation has occurred with the lamps and look forward to kicking everything back up with the new lamps. I'll see how it goes and as always, good things in a reef tank only come slowly. My upgrade to a 180 is a project for next year and I am hoping to dial in my husbandry over the time in front of launching the bigger tank.

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The tank pictured above has colors consistent with the other T5 tanks I have observed. Once again supporting my current feeling.

Clint, does the ATI fixture have fans built in to help cool it or does it simply radiate the heat away?

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Mike,

Tank is roughly 200 gallons and is 60" long 30" deep and 26" tall. I keep five Maxima clams in the sand bed roughly 36" below the fixture with no problems at all. You're more than welcome to come by some time and check it out in person. Tank was set up last December.

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I was thinking your screen name might indicate where your tank was. That's what I get for assuming. Rarely get that far south, but I bet we'll cross paths someday. If I get really hot about the T5 setup for a 180, I'll have to beg the favor of a visit to see first hand how the T5 fixture works. For now, I won't ask to spend your time on my flight of reef fancy.

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<br />The more I learn about all this and the longer I tweak the chemistry of my rig, the more I believe that this games is well more complicated than just PAR and K value on lights, air volume drawn through a skimmer, and gph of flow.  That is why I am considering leaving metal halides behind and running a T5 tank.  If you read through the Sonny's Rimless thread in the SPS section at Reef Central, you'll see that he is a biology over technology sort of guy.  Not a Zeo nut and not an equipment dude either.  Nice blend of simply what works for him.  I currently am running the Poly Lab system and feel that it has helped my biology tremendously.  It is with that experience that I have begun to see value in this sort of approach with the T5's.  The lights alone probably won't make the setup run, but it seems to be an important element in the whole enchilada.<br />
<br /><br /><br />

Before you give up on halides, I would encourage you to continue to make adjustments to things other than your equipment. Improving the chemistry and biology of your tank may be the better investment at this point. There are a lot of great tanks with metal halides, and more recently, with T5s. Great tanks are more likely the result of better husbandry than the equipment. Unless the heat/energy issues are really bothering you, at this point it might be best to retain the equipment you already have.

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<br /><br /><br />

Before you give up on halides, I would encourage you to continue to make adjustments to things other than your equipment. Improving the chemistry and biology of your tank may be the better investment at this point. There are a lot of great tanks with metal halides, and more recently, with T5s. Great tanks are more likely the result of better husbandry than the equipment. Unless the heat/energy issues are really bothering you, at this point it might be best to retain the equipment you already have.

+1

Wouldn't you hate to spend $1K on lights only to find out it didn't make much of a difference?

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I had originally run MH on my 120, then switched to T5s for my 60g cube. I recently bought an ATI sunpower and I doubt that I will ever switch back. I agree with Clint though, buying 6-8 lamps at $20 each 8 months gets a little expensive.

Lights just went up last night.

light_no_flash.jpg

tank_new_light.jpg

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Your new light rig looks great over the cube!

I have no intention of scraping the halides over my existing 120 setup. My lights and hood are nicely configured, but very tall with the Lumenbrights. I was entertaining the T5 route for a new six foot 180gallon system that I have begun to entertain for next year. Meanwhile, I want very much to optimize conditions and husbandry techniques/protocol for an excellent result like you allude to. Many paths to the same destination...that I am certain of. I am getting on track though as things look much better now than three months ago and I am continuing to address the biology issues. That's a whole other string though. I think that aspect of the Sonny Rimless thread I cited above is very interesting and actually am considering a move like that on my current system. I don't add Strontium and Iodide currently and that fella makes a good case for it with his result. Caution is advised with both additives though and it is with that regard that I'll keep researching. Meanwhile, dreaming about the new tank, I was wanting to explore this idea here locally.

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