AquaMedic MH light repair?

[versace]

I have AquaMedic MH 150W + T5 (2X24W) combo.

It can not tune on the MH probably ballast is dead.

How can i repair?

[versace]

http://www.ballastkit.com/metalhalideballastkit-p-24.html?

http://www.1000bulbs.com/150-Watt-Metal-Halide-Ballast/2547/

http://www.hellolights.com/index.asp?PageA...D&ProdID=39

http://www.expresslightbulbs.com/ballasts-...s-c-10_115.html

[Rjohn]

On another note, I love the pics of your Yorkie. I have a 5 yr old female. She thinks she owns the house.

[caferacermike]

And you are 100% sure the bulb is still good? Recently I bought 2 new 250w DE bulbs and about 10 days later one quit firing. The problem was almost microscopic but for some reason there was a little pit on the firing pin that prevented the bulb from lighting up. You might want to borrow a bulbs and test that as well. There might also be a built in fuse somewhere you can check. Halide ballasts themselves don't normally just quit. They seem to begin making a lot of noise, especially the magnetic ballast in your picture, buzzing to be precise. That can last years before the ballast actually quits. Also you may notice a lot of flickering from a bad ballast. You might take the light around to one of the light shops along Burnet road and ask them to ake a look at it. It;s very possible that the problem is simply the starting capacitor being burned out.

If you decide t replace the ballast you should really consider going with electronic ballasts. They are silent, last longer, use less electricity, and can over drive bulbs. I've converted several 150w fixtures to 250w units using the generic 250w electronic ballast with hanging pendant kit from hellolights.

[versace]

On another note, I love the pics of your Yorkie. I have a 5 yr old female. She thinks she owns the house.

You can absolutely say that again. They act like if they were people.

PLZ Show me your Yorkie PIC..

[versace]

And you are 100% sure the bulb is still good? Recently I bought 2 new 250w DE bulbs and about 10 days later one quit firing. The problem was almost microscopic but for some reason there was a little pit on the firing pin that prevented the bulb from lighting up. You might want to borrow a bulbs and test that as well. There might also be a built in fuse somewhere you can check. Halide ballasts themselves don't normally just quit. They seem to begin making a lot of noise, especially the magnetic ballast in your picture, buzzing to be precise. That can last years before the ballast actually quits. Also you may notice a lot of flickering from a bad ballast. You might take the light around to one of the light shops along Burnet road and ask them to ake a look at it. It;s very possible that the problem is simply the starting capacitor being burned out.

If you decide t replace the ballast you should really consider going with electronic ballasts. They are silent, last longer, use less electricity, and can over drive bulbs. I've converted several 150w fixtures to 250w units using the generic 250w electronic ballast with hanging pendant kit from hellolights.

Thank you for replying…

I already test out the bulb and it’s still working (100%)

I think ballasts have the problem…

I tried to detach my MH, and it was divided into three parts: capacitor, ignitor, and coil

I think either capacitor or ignitor has problem

With MultiMeter test, socket part shown around 240V

I bought this from somebody and I have used for 1 year now..

And sometimes it showed the flickering problems as you said

Before it stopped working, when I turn on the light on my MH it had buzzing sounds too

But now it does not have any buzzing sound; just little heat from coil parts…

Last question

For 150W MH, only M81 Ballast can be used?

The sites that I posted which parts do I have to buy and change it?

If I have to get an electronic ballasts, which one should I buy(use)?

Also if I have to get an electronic ballasts, do I have to use 250W?

If you have some other suggestions, please reply me back or pm me

Thank you again

[caferacermike]

I prefer IceCap ballasts but they can be very expensive.

I've retrofitted several manufactured lights with these kits here, http://www.hellolights.com/index.asp?PageA...amp;ProdID=1325 .

They've proven themselves on 2 good points. First the reflectors for the 150's tend to be very small. They tend to not provide much spread of the light.

The second good point is that your lighting will be much stronger than when it was 150w.

Not to mention that an electronic ballast is better for the bulbs, quiet, and runs much cooler than a mag ballast.

If you tend to not build many things this project can be a bit intimidating. I'm willing to help as it is actually quite simple. You do need to cut the reflector down a bit as they are about 6" tall. You will need to trim out the hole in your light to fit it.

Or if you don't want to upgrade the lighting to 250w, check out the price on the ARO electronic ballast is only about $5 more than the mag ballast. ANd after seeing that most places will charge you almost the price of a ballast for both the ignitor and capacitor, it might be wiser to buy an entire ballast kit.