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testing/test kits - What do you use/recommend?


chrisfowler99

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No comparison! Refractometer.

TDS? Yes! I use a dual inline one on my RO/DI.

Test kits - I really like the Elos test kits. As a basic kit I would have Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, KH, and Calcium. For PH I recommend a probe as they are most accurate and easy to read. The kits are a little hard to be sure and it is nicer to be able to see the PH whenever you want and not have to test each time.

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- Refractometer for sure

- TDS..its my understanding that you really only use this to test how "clean" your RO/DI water coming out of your RO/DI filter is. If you don't have an RO/DI unit, you might not need it.

- I started with the Aquarium Pharamaceuticals Test kits, but found some of the tests (Nitrates) to be wildly inaccurate. Now I use Tetra kits. Marine Depot just had a good article comparing test kits so you might check it out.

Edited by azcummins
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Agree on the refractometer, easy to ready, easy to clean and can calibrated w/RO water.

Test Kits I don't spend too much money on the Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, KH. ---We use the AP.

Test Kits for Calcium and Magnesium, use Seachem kits.

Ditto on the PH probe.....so much easier to keep track.

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I like using the Seachem test kits because they come in the little plastic first aid type boxes. It's nice not to have everything all mixed up in a kitchen drawer some where. On a budget AP makes a store kit that comes in a plastic tackle box, another ideal way to go about it. The simpler the test and set up, the more likely you'll use it. Elos are considered to be the high end kits now, a few years ago it was Salifert. The problem with Salifert was that there was a long shipping delay and word got around that the chemicals were breaking down in transport. That is one thing I've heard over and over is to use the test kits quickly. The reactants tend to break down and become inaccurate over time. It's hard to go wrong with the free testing done at the LFS. The kits are fresh and most of the employees have done the tests so often it would be difficult for them to make a mistake. Just know that you might need to wait around a little for an employee to become freed up to do the test if the shop is busy. BTW, a trend in San Antonio is that Aquarium Designs is now charging about $5 or more (depends upon what you want tested) for a reef tank test. Let's not see this happen in Austin. Free testing allows people to test frequently and possibly prevent or catch a problem early on. People will think twice about paying for testing and that can lead to tank meltdowns. Many hobbyists would rather get out of the hobby than deal with a total system failure. It is cost effective to give the test away for free and keep a customer than it is to drive them out of the hobby forever.

We all use the little blue and white inline TDS meters that are sold on Ebay and at the RO/DI suppliers like Buckeye Field Supply for about $25.

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DUAL! It is very very important.

If you have only a RO unit you would splice it in just before and just after the RO membrane.

Reasons.

1: You will be measuring the output of your prefilters, probably around 400ppm. When they begin to rise it might be wise to replace the prefilters thus increasing the usable life of the more expensive membrane.

2: You will be able to keep track of the output of the membrane, between 5-20ppm, and monitor it's performance. If it begins to rise it is time for a new membrane.

If you have an RO/DI unit the standard is to place it before and after the DI canister.

Reasons:

1: You'll be measuring the output of the prefilters and membrane. Unfortunately you'll lose the ability to keep an eye on the prefilters but if you replace them about every 4 months you should be able to get a year to a year and a half out of the membrane. If you see the RO output begin to climb while the DI output stays at or near 0 ppm, it is definitely time for new membranes.

2: If you see the DI output begin to rise to that just less than or equal to your RO output, it is definitely time to replace the DI resin. However if your RO output is still less than 20ppm your membrane should still be good.

Using the dual inline helps you to monitor your entire RO RO/DI system to help make proper tuneups. In return your water will be of higher quality and you'll save money by only replacing what is actually necessary.

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I've been using the Ocean Master test kits by Instant Ocean for ph, nitrite, nitrates, ammonia and Alk. I use the API kit for the Calcium mostly, or to verify the results for some of the Ocean Master results, but they always match. My opinion, and (I'd like some feedback on this one), dont use the Red Sea Magnesium kit, its difficult, poorly documented and downright usesless. Matt at Austin Aqua farms uses the Elos Mag kit, says its great and easy.

What I dont like about the API kit is the vials. The lid for the vials goes on the outside, and when you shake it, then remove the cap, liquid always spills on the outside of the vial onto your fingers. I used a Hagen Calcium kit for the first time last night, and while I had 3 reagents to mix in, the vial had a lid that went on the inside of the vial, so you could shake it, and remove the lid slowly and the fluid would stay in the vial, not on the outside and on your fingers. My two cents.

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