DIY 3D Printed Overflow Box

[+Grog]

Here is a sneak preview of an overflow box I'm working on.   This is a small box for my 40 breeder, with weirs, and a hole in the back for a bulkhead.  This was a quick print at low settings using PLA for a fit test.  The final print will have 100% infill and use PTEG.  I may do it in a bright color and buck the trend of black overflows.   Probably something like translucent green, or a purple/pink to blend in with coralline algae.

Next iteration will have notches in the back, so it fits under the rim of Aqueon tanks.  I'll make a little lid to go on top, to cut down on algae and hopefully cut down on noise too.  Also, I'll make a template for hole location that can be printed as well.    

I went for strength on this design.  Full back, not open, like many overflows, so it will be stronger and easier to print.  Also, when siliconing into the tank, it will have a lot more surface area for the silicone instead of a thin wall.  So, where you drill the hole will be important, you cannot just adjust the box placement to make it fit.  (Which is why I'm making a template for this.)

Once my design cycle is completed, all of the associated files will be made available free of charge via Bambu Labs Maker World.  I have a Bambu Labs printer so I use Maker World.   You don't need a Bambu printer to use Maker Lab, and it is free to register there.

I have a couple of other reef related models I'm working on.   A printable sump kit is next.   While I really like my Fiji Cube sump kit, $200 is crazy for something that will literally cost me $4-5 to print.   

And yes, PETG material is reef safe.

[Timfish]

  It's pretty amazing the stuff that's easier to do yourself with a printer.  Have you considered the working water level?  As I read it it's fitting up tigh to the lip that holds the glass top.  Potentially it could be 3/8" or even a bit higher depnding on flow rate and algae build up.

[+Grog]

I'm going to play with the fit some. It won't have tops.  Likely will do another canopy.  Not in Bastrop today.  This will be a weekend project after I get some honey dos knocked out. I'm about to get grounded if I don't catch up on those.  🤣

[+Grog]

Updated the design today and printing version 0.2 of the overflow box in PLA again.

• Increased tooth depth and width on the weir.
• Added a right angle cut out in the corner to accommodate the silicone seam in the aquarium, preventing the box from sitting wonky.

I will test fit and then print in PETG.

Next step is to draw up the jig for hole drilling, so it is precisely located.

This will be placed in the back right corner of the tank.  I'll drill the return on the other corner.   My ideas for this are for flow circulation and so I can paint the loc-line return to match the PTEG color I print the box with.  I won't get a 100% color match.   If the return is adjacent to the overflow, the color will be way more noticeable than if it is on the other end of the tank. 

Not 100% sure on loc-line return.  I still may print up something.   Wrapping my brain around that still.

[Timfish]

I'm really curious how the 3D printed loc-line works if you decide to print some.  It seems to me the small irregularities 3D printing can leave might promote microbubbles but that may just be overthinking it.

[+Grog]

4 hours ago, Timfish said:

I'm really curious how the 3D printed loc-line works if you decide to print some.  It seems to me the small irregularities 3D printing can leave might promote microbubbles but that may just be overthinking it.

I'm still deciding on this.  It will be worth trying just to see how it functions.  Good or bad.   But a part of me thinks that I don't need flexible line at all.  Only a return nozzle.   Thinking...

V 0.2 printed last night, and I did a fit check.   That is what this process is for, cheap quick iterations. The box looked good, but I noticed there would be interference between the flange and the trim on the tank.  I went back to TinkerCAD, and tried to relocate the hole, and found the box was too small.  I needed to stretch the box some, because I'd get interference from either the lip or the interior bottom wall of the box.

All of those modifications were incorporated into V 0.3.  Box stretched, weir adjusted slightly, and I reprinted.   Final results below.  NOTE:  I broke one of the weir teeth while fiddling with this.   This is not a concern for two reasons:  the final product will be PETG not PLA, and the final print will have 100% infill instead of 15%.    I printed at 15% for speed of the prototype as strength is of no concern, its only job is to validate fit.

I'm happy with this version.  Good spacing on the sides, and plenty of room for the rim.  No interference with either the lip or the silicone seam.  The teeth on the weir may need to be slightly longer, about 3/16".  @Timfish I'll let you look at it this weekend.  I like it but suspect you will think they need to be deeper.   It is just barely under the black trim. (As far as changes go, this is about the easiest to make to the model.)