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Redsea Reefer 450 Build / Upgrade


mhart032

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So thinking more on the Triton Method, this seems like a great option for ULM which is really what id like to have. I honestly hate doing water changes and the maintenance associated with the water changes. Im really heavily leaning  towards this the more i research, specially on a new build where things dont have to be converted over and changed later to go to this method. As i research i notice the BIG issue, my sump cant really handle this method without major surgery to modify the sump. anyone have any thoughs on the Triton method? goods bads, personal feelings in general towards this system? 

 

i was looking at this this morning 

triton34_v2_4-1200x1200.jpg

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Get one of these and chop the Reefer 450 sump area in half. One section just big enough to house your skimmer, the remaining space for your fuge. It'll absolutely be big enough for aggressive nutrient export:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/202091893065?ul_noapp=true

Front to back, it's 16.5". And then tell them your water level is around 9.5" (confirm the water level on your own of course but it should be the same). I've done this on past systems -- their build quality is impeccable. And instead of spending $$$$ on a new sump, spend it on a Kessil H380.

And you should also consider doing ATI Essentials Pro instead of Triton. It's super concentrated (I went from 150ml of 2-part to 30ml of ATI Essentials Pro) and there doesn't seem to be inventory availability issues like there have been with Triton. The end goal is still the same -- no water changes.

Edit: Found some old pics. https://imgur.com/a/q6s5XSy

Edited by eddius-maximus
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2 minutes ago, eddius-maximus said:

Get one of these and chop the Reefer 450 sump area in half. One section just big enough to house your skimmer, the remaining space for your fuge. It'll absolutely be big enough for aggressive nutrient export:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/202091893065?ul_noapp=true

Front to back, it's 16.5". And then tell them your water level is around 9.5" (confirm the water level on your own of course but it should be the same). I've done this on past systems -- their build quality is impeccable. And instead of spending $$$$ on a new sump, spend it on a Kessil H380.

And you should also consider doing ATI Essentials Pro instead of Triton. It's super concentrated (I went from 150ml of 2-part to 30ml of ATI Essentials Pro) and there doesn't seem to be inventory availability issues like there have been with Triton. The end goal is still the same -- no water changes.

That's a very good option, i just looking at the sump, it wouldn't be that much trouble to cut the silicone out of the overflow section and filter sock section and start from scratch on that end, my glass guy says hes got 1/2 glass close to that size he can cut and would just give it to me. the notches to keep the algae in would be an issue, but he might be able to get it if he takes his time. i could just split that section and install the baffle he cuts for me and be done with it. i really like the glass vs the acrylic. Ill do some research on the ATI essentials that could be a viable option, I have read about the supply issues in the past of the Triton products. I haven't had great success with 2 part in the past. 

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Ok, so the sump had surgery, got a little lighter whatever the case. here are the pic. I left the bracing 1. because if i want to put it back i have all the pieces, 2. because i felt lazy and it would have been awful difficult to remove the braces from the tank without the risk of cracking the glass. Its all ready for a new baffle. 

20190305_135226.jpg

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The Mecoral reactors should be here Friday, i ordered them with the hard plumb tops so i will have to plumb those in, really i ordered 2 media reactors and the biopellet reactor, but they seem like a pretty easy job its just 1/2 slip fittings and the return down into the sump. Im not sure that i will really need them, but they are probably good to have anyway just in case. i can always add them if i need them. 

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I use live rock in my sump.  Seems to work fine for me.  I've read stories of people having marine pure disentegrate over time, but have not personally used it.  Another product I've read of people using is called siporax

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Ive seen those products and done some research on it. Ive hear the issues with the marinepure as well, I have heard the issues with the marinepure have been fixed but who knows. ill have to do some more research, and see the benefits. I can always go with more LR 

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I have a little live rock in the sump, but I use two of the 8"x8"x1" plates of MarinePure as well as a number of the 2x2" cubes.   I've placed the cubes in the bubble trap so that all the water is forced to move over/through them.  I've seen the plates and cubes deteriorate a bit in two years, but nothing that would make me worry.  I've even rinsed them out/cleaned off the sponges once during this time.  They've done a great job for me.

Edited by Sierra Bravo
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2 hours ago, Sierra Bravo said:

I have a little live rock in the sump, but I use two of the 8"x8"x1" plates of MarinePure as well as a number of the 2x2" cubes.   I've placed the cubes in the bubble trap so that all the water is forced to move over/through them.  I've seen the plates and cubes deteriorate a bit in two years, but nothing that would make me worry.  I've even rinsed them out/cleaned off the sponges once during this time.  They've done a great job for me.

Im actually leaning towards the Marinepure plates as well, with some smaller rock from the older tank. 

 

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I have a MarinePure block sitting passively in my sump. It's the 8" x 1" version. It does a fantastic job of reducing nitrates. 

There are lots of concerns of ICP testing showing excessive aluminum with these MP blocks. I don't ICP test so I can't confirm. I do know the first things to show signs of excess aluminum are toadstool leathers and LPS. I have many of these in my tank and they've never shown any negative signs.

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34 minutes ago, eddius-maximus said:

I have a MarinePure block sitting passively in my sump. It's the 8" x 1" version. It does a fantastic job of reducing nitrates. 

There are lots of concerns of ICP testing showing excessive aluminum with these MP blocks. I don't ICP test so I can't confirm. I do know the first things to show signs of excess aluminum are toadstool leathers and LPS. I have many of these in my tank and they've never shown any negative signs.

Nice, I think I'm initially going that route. It's clean and easy to remove to clean the fuge if need be. Speaking if the fuge.. got the new baffle installed yesterday picked up the glass locally for around 18.00 for 1/4in piece. Think it came out pretty good. 

20190308_143922.jpg

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Just got the Mecoral reactors.. big big problem, they are to long and wont fit in the sump area unless i do some seriously unique plumbing making things look jammed inside the sump, which im not willing to being the work ive put into it. 

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Im just going to rebuild the manifold, i have some 1x1x3/4 Ts coming in with 3 more 3/4" gate valves for the reactors being dropped off on Monday, that will free up the space i need to put them in line, it will give me the height i need, so its not the end of the world. Its either rebuild the manifold or send the reactors back. the plumbing will prob cost as much as sending the reactors back. 

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I worked on the rock a little today. im not 100% sold on it yet, but i tried to use some of the Nyos reef cement, wow epic fail! that stuff was horrible to work with, i couldnt get it to stick at all. so i will figure out a better way to stick rocks together. 

Anyway a couple pics. 

20190310_183101.jpg20190310_174811.jpg20190310_183329.jpg

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1 minute ago, BBMarlin said:

Drill the rocks and use acrylic rods to stabilize the structure.  You will be glad you went through this effort long term.

I second this. I have pvc going through mine but same idea. Over the years it's been really handy to easily slide whatever rock off to swap it with a new one or just clean it off or frag a coral or whatever. Plus nothing's shifted unexpectedly in 5 years.

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That's kind of what I was thinking, was to get some acrylic rods tomorrow from and put it all togeather with rods. At least the bigger pieces of rock. The little ones will be a bit more difficult to drill. I started with 120lbs of dry rock I might have 90 with 30lbs of rubble and small pieces from shaping the rocks. If I break much more I'll have to order more lol. Thanks for the advice! 

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