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42 Gallon Hex Tank Build


n2585722

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On 1/12/2022 at 8:47 AM, Timfish said:

Definitely one of the most thurogh build threads I've seen!

 

For building acrylic I cut the corners off my speed squares for the same reason.  I have a couple aluminum ones with conrers intack and a bunch of modified plastic ones.  

Thank you, I am hoping it may be a help to someone that is looking for a way to do some of the things I have done already. I did use those squares to build my acrylic sump. I think I have three or four like that.

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I transferred 2 channels of the 6 channels of daytime lighting to the Hydros. The controller with the 0-10v inputs is in the garage 35ft away. So I powered down all the remaining DA modules in the garage so I could use the DA buss cable from the tank to the garage to get the 0-10v signals to the tank. I made a cable to go from the 0-10v output connector to a RJ45 breakout. The connector on the DA buss cable is a RJ11 but it will still plug into the RJ45 breakout Just pin 1 and pin 8 will have no connection. The connector on the X4 that the cable is connected is the lower purple coded one in the upper right of the controller which is on the right. The RJ45 breakout is to the left of the relays on the DIN rail at the bottom. The connector is the one on the right and the terminals are then bottom ones. Pin 7 is ground and pin 6,5,4 and 3 are Outputs 1,2,3 and 4 form the controller.

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The two boards with the red LED's lit below are the two 0-10v to PWM converters I got to try out. The RJ45 breakout above them is connected to the cable coming from the garage. You can tell I don't get into this compartment very often, it is dusty.

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The PCB with the LDD's has the three LED drivers that will be controlled by the Hydros.  The top two a LDD-1000 and a LDD1500 drive two strings of 6 royal blue LED's  The bottom one on the left a LDD-700 is the other one and it drives 4 UV LED's. So as it is currently wired 0-10v output 3 drives the 2 royal blue dirvers and 0-10v output 4 drives the UV driver.

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Below is the output setup for the royal blue output. The converters I have do not change till about 2.5v is applied to them. I don't like this and plan on trying some different converters to see if I can find some that light at a lower value. So for now I have this set for a low point 25% and a high point of 50%. I checked with a scope and at 50% I do have 50/50 duty cycle on the PWM output. 50% was the high setting on the Archon for these strings. The type of output is set for variable light.

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The output below is setup for the UV LED's. It also uses the variable light type. It has a minimum 24% and a max of 70%. The max matches the max set on the Archon for this channel.

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Below are two screenshots of the light schedule for the above outputs. The type is light schedule. The variable light mode is slope for now since it matches with the Archon schedule. I may change this once I get all the channels on the Hydros system. Start time is set for 9:30am and end time is set for 8:00pm. The slope is set for 4:00 hours. The lights will get to their max setting at 1:30pm and stay at max till 4:00pm. At that time the lights slowly dim down to off at 8:00pm. The minimum power is set for 0 and the max is set for 100. 1 is the minimum that is set on the outputs and 100 is actually the max set on the outputs. So the 1-100 is within the minimum and maximum set on the output. Light count is set for 2 since I will be controlling 2 outputs. I left active in mode at their defaults which would be active in all modes. It is set to run every day. It runs all days of the week. The depends on setting is not used here. So the testing begins for the Hydros lighting and the two converters.

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  • 2 weeks later...

There is new firmware out for the Hydros that has dynamic dosing and also power monitoring for drive ports and XP8 outputs. It is not available on the wifi power strips since the power monitor hardware is not in those power strips. I decided to try out the dynamic dosing on my All For Reef Dosing pump. Since it takes a while for the All For Reef to break down to affect alkalinity I only made minor changes in the dose related to pH reading.  The first screenshot below is the popup that appears if you click the pump tile.  You can run a calibration test, manual dose a specific amount or add or set the reservoir amount form the popup. I use an Intllab pump for All For Reef dosing. It is set for 12ml per minute of flow. To calibrate this I use the manual dose instead of the calibration function. I set it to manually dose 10ml I weight it after the dispense. I adjust the flow rate pot on the pump one way are another until I get 10ml. I have the pump set 12ml per minute of flow on the Hydros so this way I am adjusting the pump itself to match that.

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Below is the setup for the All For Reef dosing pump. The Intllab is a simple doser. So it is set for that type of pump. The flow rate is set for 12ml per minute. That happens to be about as slow as the Intllab pump can go and still have a stable flow rate. I use one of the drive ports to run the pump. I have the power range set for a low of .5 watts to a high of 3 watts. If it gets out of that range when the output is on it will send an alert according to the orange alert setting in this case. That is a push notification the way I have mine setup. There is also a set up for a low reservoir alert. I have it set to .1 liters. That is the lowest setting. The container I use will only hold .4 liters when full. So I start getting alerts when it is down to 1/4 full.

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The next two screenshots below are for the schedule for the All For Reef dosing. This schedule is the Dosing Regimen type. I have Dynamic Dosing set to on. The input for dynamic dosing control is my pH input. Next are the set points for my tank the low set point is set to a pH of 7.9 The high set point is set to 8.3. I have the total daily dose per pump set to 21.8 ml if the pH is at or below the low point. I have the total daily does per pump set to 19.8ml if the pH is at or above 8.3. If the pH input is invalid for some reason it is set to dose 20.8ml per pump per day. This was the original setting before using the dynamic dosing setup. It is set to dose 6 times a day. I only use one pump so the Doser Count is set to 1. Doser 1 is set to the AFR dosing pump. The pump speed was carried over from the pump setup and is 12ml per minute. I left Active In Modes to the Defaults. The All For Reef Pump doses into the same tube in the garage that the ATO uses so it will actually be dispensed to to tank by the ATO. It is set to start at midnight and run everyday. The Depends on setting is set to the ATO OK output. If t is ok for the ATO to run then it is ok to dose. The dependency mode is set to off if off. So if ATO OK is not on the pump will not run. I also dilute All For Reef to 1/2 strength so the actual dose for standard AFR is half of what my numbers here are set. I did this so I would be able to dose more frequently and still have enough dosing time. The dosing pump on the Hydros needs to run at least 2 seconds each time.

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Below is the log for the ARF Dosing pump. The range is 3.4 to 3.6ml per dose. That is a range of 20.4 to 21.6ml per day. I think it varies the dose depending on where the pH is between the low and high setting. I had a small difference between the two since I am just doing this mostly to test out the dynamic dosing function. That is about it for the dynamic dosing.

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Now on to the power monitoring on the XP8. I have most of the outlets I use on it with the power monitoring setup now. I will go over one for one of my heaters here. The screenshot below is of the popup after clicking on the Heater 1 tile which happens to be on right now. It is a 50 watt heater and is reading 50.1 watts. This popup also shows the voltage, current and carious other readings. The power is the one you can set a range for and an alert for. If you click on the gear in the popup it brings up a screen with the settings for the output.

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The two screenshots below have the setup for one of my heaters. This uses an output on my XP8. The output type is heater. You could also use the generic output but the heater has the settings geared for heaters. The on temp is set to 76.1 if the temp get down to or below this setting the heater will turn on as long as the minimum off time setting has been met. The off temp is set to 76.3 if the temp raises to or above this setting the heater will turn off as long as the minimum on time setting has been met. The Temperature Input is set to my tank temp input. The Output Device is outlet 6 on my XP8. I have it set to off if the input is unavailable for some reason. Now on to the power monitoring settings. I have the low set to 45 watts and the high set to 55 watts. So the safe range is 45 to 55 watts. If it gets out of that range when the output is on for some reason it will send an alert if it is set to do that. I have the power notification to orange which is a push notification. Push notification shows up on any device I have the app installed on which for me is my iPad and my phone. So as long as I have one of those with me I will get the alert. I left the Active in Mode at the defaults for this output. The Depends On is set for the return pump. It is set to off if off. My heaters are in the sump and the sensor is not in the same compartment of the sump so I don't want the heaters running if the return pump is not running. I have advanced settings enabled and the minimum off time set for one minute.  So it has to stay off for at least one minute before it turns back on. The minimum on time is set for 20 seconds. So it will stay on at least 20 seconds if turned on. The maximum on time is set for 8 hours and 30 minutes. Run past maximum on time is set to on so the heater will continue to run but an alert will be sent that the maximum on time was exceeded. Where my tank is it would be unusual for the heater to run that long. The notification level is set to orange so I will get a push notification.  I have the thermostats on the heaters set to 3 degrees above the control setting on the hydros output settings. The way things are set if the heating element opens, the heater gets unplugged or the heater turns off I will get a low power alert for this output. Also if for some unlikely reason the power level goes above 55 watts I will get an alert for that also.

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I purposely unplugged the heater and below are the alerts. The tile itself turns red and has the alert. The first screenshot has the popup. The second screenshot is after I clicked on the push notification that was sent to the iPad. The push notification has the same basic information on it. That is about it for now.

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  • 3 months later...

I got my hands on a Wave Engine V2 for my Hydros controller. Right now the only thing I have it can control is my two MP10's. To do that I need a EcoTech RF module. Those are hard to come by right now. Since I will not be using my ReefLink after installing the Wave Engine I decided to use the RF module from my ReefLink in my new Wave Engine. I took some photos of the swap out. The main difference between the Wave Engine and the Wave Engine V2 is it uses the same microprocessor as the other Hydros controllers and also has a SD card. It can also be a  wifi master which the old Wave Engine could not do. Also you will have to get and install a Eco Tech RF module to be able to control the EcoTech MP series wave pumps.

Below is a photo of the new Wave Engine V2. I will remove the 6 screws

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Below is the Wave Engine V2 opened up. You just have to make sure the white gasket is in place correctly before it is reassemble. The RF module will go in the upper right corner of the PCB.

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Ok now to removing the RF module from the ReefLink. Below is the ReefLink with the rubber feet assembly removed.

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The back plate had to be peeled away from the bottom to remove the bottom. The flex cable in the lower center of the PCB below has to be disconnected from the connector to get the PCB out of the case.

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Below is the PCB removed from the case and flipped to the side with the RF module. The RF module is the small green PCB in the upper left of the PCB below.

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Below are two photos one of the top and one bottom of the RF module removed from the ReefLink.

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Below is a photo of the Wave Engine with the RF module installed. It plugs in to the sockets on the PCB but you do have to be careful when you plug it onto the PCB.

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Below is the Wave Engine back together ready to add to my account and setup.

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I also decided that I would use it for the wifi master since it can do that as a test. So once I had it setup in the collective I set it as the preferred wifi master.

I also had to enable the EcoTech pumps in the options menu below. The heading is WE Enable EcoTech Pumps. Screenshot of options menu below.

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After you enable the pumps you will get the three tiles for the EchoTech pump channels. They are White, Cyan and Orange. The White is same side, the Cyan is oppisite side and Orange is back for EcoTech on the MP controllers. You can assign them how you want them on the schedule though.

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Since mine are on the same side I am using the White channel for both for now. That is determined by how you setup the EcoTech controller for each pump when you pair them to the Wave Engine.

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Below is a screenshot after setting the Wave Engine to wifi master. I actually have 9 controllers in the collective now.

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I will go over the schedules I created for running the MP10's in a later post. I am trying to set them up as close as I can to where they were on the ReefLink.

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I have some LED failures on my tank LED's so I got to checking how long it has been and come across a photo from September 24, 2013 of the LED's in their current configuration. Below is the photo along with another one taken at the same time. They almost lasted 9 years. So I guess I cannot complain. I have ordered some more LED's to at least replace the ones in the strings that are out. The UV string of 4 and one of the royal blue strings of 6 are out. I ordered stars with three LED's per star. So I got 2 stars of each and the lenses that go with the stars. The current configuration has single LED's per star. i will probably order some to go ahead and replace the others also. I want to wait and see how these stars work out before doing the rest. The white LED's are 3 amp LED's but the driver is only a 1.5 amp driver and their maximum percentage was set at 50% so they were no where near max. I will probably leave those for last.

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I did change some wiring that the insulation was crumbling on the wiring. So the UV from the LED's can damage things. Photo of wires removed below. The insulation just crumbled off the wires. That happened to the wires at the closest points to the LED's. Changing the wires did not get the two strings running again. Looks like all 4 UV led's are out and two of the royal blue LED's are out. I still have the lower power royal blue string and the white string along with two RGBW LED's and a cyan and deep red LED.So I am not completely down on lighting.

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I have got some schedules setup for my MP10's on the WEv2. The first one is the schedule for low power mode. I set the pumps to10% flow. I am trying to recreate the schedule I had in the ReefLink for now. I can adjust it later. The EcoTech interface has outputs White, Cyan and Orange. These can be set for Same End, Opposite End and Back. I don't use all three right now but I setup one for each in all the schedules so if I ever do start using them they are already setup in the schedules. The one the individual pups use are set in the pumps themselves so if they accidentally get changed at least they will still run. Active in modes is set to be active in low power mode all other modes it is inactive.The start time and end times are set to 00:00:00 so it can run anytime the low power mode is activated. This will usually happen if the power goes off and the controller is running on battery backup. The pumps also have a battery backup supply.

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The second schedule is the morning flow pattern. I set this one to the LPS Reef pattern. I have the max speed set at 60% for now? This may change latter. The pump settings are the same as the other schedules. Active in modes is set to be active in all modes except low power mode. The start time is set to 8:00am and the stop time is set to 12:00 noon. The depends on setting is set to the 42g Feed Mode output and set to off if on. All the schedules except on have this same setting. I will get to the 42g Feed Mode output later on in the post.

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The Next schedule is the noon flow pattern. The flow patter here is set to random. The speed range is set from 1 to 55%. The pump settings are the same as before. The active in mode  settings are the same as the morning flow schedule. The start time is the end of morning flow at 12:00 noon. The end time is set to 16:00 or 4:00pm. The depends on setting is the same as the morning flow schedule.

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The next schedule is the afternoon flow pattern. This uses the nutrient export pattern. It is set for a flow from 1 to 70%. The pulse frequency is set to 1 minute and 10 seconds. I think that is the default setting since I do not remember changing it. The pump settings are the same as the other schedules. The active in modes is set the same as the morning flow pattern. The start time is set to 16:00 or 4:00pm. The end time is set to 20:00 or 8:00pm. The depends on settings are the same as the morning flow pattern.

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The next schedule is evening flow. This uses the LPS Reef pattern like morning flow. The max speed is set to 40%. The start time is set to 20:00 or 8:00pm. The end time is set to 00:00 or midnight. Other than that it is the same as the morning flow pattern

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The next schedule is night flow. This one uses the sine wave pattern and has a flow rate of 5 to 21%. The Cycle duration is 1 minute. The pump settings are the same as morning flow. The start time is set to 00:00 or midnight. the end time is 8:00am. The depends on settings are the same as morning flow pattern.

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The last schedule is the feeder flow. This pattern is set to constant speed and the speed is set to 6%. The pump settings are the same as morning flow. The start time and end time are set to 00:00 just like low power mode since this will run only during feed mode. The depends on setting is set to the 42g Feed mode output. The difference is the dependency mode is set to off if off. So if the 42g Feed Mode output is on this schedule will run.

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Next is the 42g Feed mode output. This uses a combiner output type since we will use another output to trigger it. The input count is one sine we will only have the one input. The input is the 42g feeder output. It is not inverted. Advanced setting are enabled since we want to set an minimum on time. The minimum on time is set to 30 minutes which is how long I want the pump to run at the lower speed after the feeder runs. The feeder only runs for a couple of seconds so that s why we need the minimum on time set. That is about it for now for the schedules I have setup for my flow pumps.

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Am I undesrstanding your pump set up correctly - they're controlled wirelessly and if the they loose their wifi connection they'll still run?  (I just had to replace a pair of hydras that wouldn't connect wirelessly, red light would never come on.)

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On 5/17/2022 at 11:14 AM, Timfish said:

Am I undesrstanding your pump set up correctly - they're controlled wirelessly and if the they loose their wifi connection they'll still run?  (I just had to replace a pair of hydras that wouldn't connect wirelessly, red light would never come on.)

My MP10's are controlled via a EcoTech RF module but it has nothing to do with wifi. There is a EcoTech RF module installed in my Wave Engine. It is the master pump and the MP10's also have the RF modules and are in slave mode and follow the Wave Engine just like it is an EcoTech pump. The Wave Engine can control some pumps directly using the direct drive ports. On the WEv2 which I have it also has 4 0-10v control outputs along with 4 0-10v inputs. 

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I got the LED's I ordered to fix the Lighting on the tank. It made it almost 9 years without touching it.  I removed the moon pods from where I will be placing the new stars. The new ones have three LED's per star instead of one per star like the originals.

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Below is a photo with the new stars installed. Two royal blue and two UV.

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In the photo below the royal blues one are now wired up. There are a lot of other wires that will need to be replaced since the insulation is crumbling from some of the wires. The light from the LED's must be getting to the insulation.

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In photo below the UV LED's are wired up.

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Below the old stars have been removed. I also had to glue back some of the lens holders that got knocked loose.

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Below the lenses have been installed on the nee stars and on the lenses that were glued back.

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Below are the LED's removed. The ones on the right check bad. The three bad lenses were on 3 of the 4 UV LED's. The ones in the bag check good but not sure it is worth trying to use them again.

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Below are the wires that were replaced due to bad insulation.

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I decided to change the fans also since they have been in use for even longer than the LED's. Below is a photo with one guard removed on one of the fans. The top frame has to be removed from the heat sink to replace the fans. The connectors are also mounted to this frame and have to be removed from the frame.

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Below is the two new fans. One has the guard already installed.

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Below is the top of the heatsink before cleaning with the top frame removed.

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Below is the top frame flipped upside down on top of the heat sink.

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Below is the top of the heatsink cleaned and ready for reassembly.

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Below the new fans have bee installed on the cleaned top frame assembly.

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Below the top frame assembly has been reinstalled on the heat sink and the terminal strips have also been reinstalled on the top frame assembly.

 

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Below the Light assembly has been flipped to show LED's.

 

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Below the moon lights have been reinstalled,

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Below the LED's are on except for the UV LED's.

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Below the light assembly reinstalled in the canopy with all lights on at low level except for moon lights.

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I had to lower the max level on both the UV's and royal blue LED's after installing the new LED's. I guess that was to be expected though. The UV string has 6 LEad's now instead of 4 and they probably have a higher light output than the originals even before considering the age on the older ones since improvements have been made to LED's since the original LED's were purchased.

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7 hours ago, Timfish said:

I've noticed the LED die itself on old LEDs is slightly smaller than new ones. If I'm remembering correctly the output has increased roughly 20%-25%. 

I imagine you are correct. They are constantly improving them. I probably dropped it around that much for the royal blues. Even more for the UV's but there are 6 of them now instead of 4.

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  • 1 month later...

I decided to try out the auto water change regimen built into the Hydros system instead of the dual dosing pump. It started out as temporary to see if I could figure out how to pause the water change part without also pausing the ATO part of the water change for another user. This is what I came up with. The first three screen shots are of the automatic water change output settings. The ATO portion is copied from the original ATO settings. I use a Hydros dosing pump for my ATO pump. The original AWC pump is now my drain pump with the fill head removed. It was running for 11 minutes three times a day with the old dual head setup so I set the drain duration for 11 minutes. I believe if you use the depends on setting on this output it will stop all three pump even in mid sequence. So I do not use it at this time. I went another route I will explain latter on.

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 Now for the schedule settings. Since I was already doing this three times a day I set the water change count to 3. I set the AWC output to the previous output setup earlier. Since the original start time was 7am I set that here also. Since the schedule treats the run time and off time between the next time as one complete change I had to set the end time to 1am to keep them at 7am, 1pm and 7pm. I also have it set to run every day. I set the depends on to a output I will show later called AWC Halt. The dependency mode is off if on. If this output is on we do not want the AWC to run.

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Now on to the halt and pause output settings. The output below is a combiner type output and is used to combine two other outputs in this one output to control the water change schedule. This is the output setup in the depends on settings for the water change schedule. The first input is the Low FSW output. This output is active if the fresh salt water container level is low. This will prevent the start of a water change if active. The second input is a output called AWC Pause. It is use to stop the AWC schedule if it is needed for some reason. Notice there is no actual output device assigned to this output since it is just being used for the logic. Halting the AWC schedule will not halt the ATO.

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Below is the Low FSW output settings. It is setup using the FSW low input sensor. When the water level is low the sensor will go into the dry state and this output will be active. This output also does not have an actual output port set to it since it also is just for logic. If this output goes active in the middle of a scheduled water change the water change will continue the active schedule.

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The second output is in the screenshot below. This is a basic constant output type. Default to off is turn on. If I want to pause the water change schedule just turn this output on and then turn it back to auto when you want the water change schedule to resume. I can alway change this to a generic output and use a switch as a input to pause and restart the AWC is I wanted.

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Below is a photo of the AWC, ATO and dosing pump. The bottom left pump is now the drain pump. The upper left pump is the fill pump. The bottom right pump is the ATO pump. The upper right pump is dosing All For Reef.  These are in the garage behind the workbench. The DI storage tank, fresh salt water tank and mix tank are under the workbench. They do have casters so they can be rolled out from under the workbench as needed.

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I added some redundancy to my ATO and AWC using three drive ports and three 12v relays. The drive ports that power the relays and the drive port used to power a particular pump  are not on the same controller. This assures some redundancy if something were to happen to the controller that powers that particular pump. I have never had an issue with the drive ports to date but I had three that were not in use and also had the relays on hand. I also already had the drive port connectors so all it dowt me was the time to do it. I thought I would post it if anyone was interested in doing this. First I will go over the schematic for wiring the solenoids.

I will start with the drain pump. Drive port 2 of my X4 in the garage powers the drain pump. I previously post the screenshots of the AWC setup so I will not post here also. The output of that drive port are connected to the common contacts of a DPDT relay. You can use a SPDT relay instead but I already had several of these relays. The cable going to the plug for the pump is connected to the normally open contacts of the relay. The polarity does matter. Pin 2 of the GX12 connector for the drive port has to connect to the center of the plug since that is the positive terminal of the pump. So if the solenoid is not on the power from the X4 drive port 2 will be applied to the pump when that drive port is on. If the solenoid is powered by drive port 2 of the second X2 then the connection is disconnected by the relay and power will be removed from the pump regardless of drive port 2 on the X4. I will get into the setup for the output on the second X2 port 2 later.

Now for the ATO pump. The ATO pump is powered by drive port 1 of the X4 in the garage. The output of that drive port are connected to the common contacts of a DPDT relay. The cable going to the plug for the pump is connected to the normally open contacts of the relay. The polarity does matter. Pin 2 of the GX12 connector for the drive port has to connect to the center of the plug since that is the positive terminal of the pump. So if the solenoid is not on the power from the X4 drive port 2 will be applied to the pump when that drive port is on. If the solenoid is powered by drive port 2 of the second X2 then the connection is disconnected by the relay and power will be removed from the pump regardless of drive port 2 on the X4. I will get into the setup for the output on the second X2 port 2 later.

Now for the fill pump. The fill pump is powered by drive port 1 of the second X2 in the garage. The output of that drive port are connected to the common contacts of a DPDT relay. The cable going to the plug for the pump is connected to the normally open contacts of the relay. The polarity does matter with this one also. Pin 2 of the GX12 connector for the drive port has to connect to the center of the plug since that is the positive terminal of the pump. So if the solenoid is not on then the power from the second X2 drive port 1 will be applied to the pump when that drive port is on. If the solenoid is powered by drive port 2 of the first X2 then the connection is disconnected by the relay and power will be removed from the pump regardless of drive port 1 on the second X2. I will get into the setup for the output on the second X2 port 2 later.

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Now to the settings for the Drain Stop output. I used the generic output type. It has 5 inputs that are used for control. Input one is the leak detector on the stand. If this is active there is water in the stand and I do not want to start a water change. The second input is a leak detector in the garage where the pumps, storage tanks and RODI unit is. So if there is a leak detection there I do not want to start a water change sequence.  The third input is sump low. If this input is active I do not want to start the drain pump. The forth input is FSW Low which is a low level for fresh salt water storage. If this is low I do not want to drain any water from the tank. The fifth input is skimmer full. If it is full the skimmer will be off which will throw the water level in the sump off and I do not want the water change to happen since it uses the full level sensor the ATO uses. The output device is the second GR2 drive port 2. The inputs are all OR'ed together so if any one is active the output will turn on. Also if any input becomes unavailable the output will turn on. The depends on is set to the skimmer and it is set to on if off. If the skimmer is off for any reason I do not want the water change to start. The skimmer will be off if the return pump is off so that will stop the drain pump also.

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Now to the ATO Stop output.  This Also uses the generic type of output. It has three inputs that are used for control. Input one is sump high. If this input is active I do not want to start the drain sequence since something is wrong. The second input is the leak detector on the stand. If this is active there is water in the stand and I do not want to start a water change. The third input is a leak detector in the garage where the pumps, storage tanks and RODI unit is. So if there is a leak detection there I do not want to start a water change sequence. The output device is the first GR2 drive port 1. The inputs are all OR'ed together so if any one is active the output will turn on. Also if any input becomes unavailable the output will turn on. The Depends on is set to the return pump and set to on if off.

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Now to the Fill Pump Stop output. I used the generic output type. It has 4 inputs that are used for control. Input one is the leak detector on the stand. If this is active there is water in the stand and I do not want to start a water change. The second  input is sump high. If this input is active I do not want to start the fill sequence since something is wrong. The third input is a leak detector in the garage where the pumps, storage tanks and RODI unit is. So if there is a leak detection there I do not want to start a water change sequence. The forth input is skimmer full. If it is full the skimmer will be off which will throw the water level in the sump off and I do not want the water change to happen since it uses the full level sensor the ATO uses. The output device is the second GR2 drive port 2. The inputs are all OR'ed together so if any one is active the output will turn on. Also if any input becomes unavailable the output will turn on. The depends on is set to the skimmer and it is set to on if off. If the skimmer is off for any reason I do not want the water change to start. The skimmer will be off if the return pump is off so that will stop the drain pump also.

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I also got some photos of the relays installed on the DIN rail. in this photo the two relays are from left to right fill stop and drain stop.  Both are off i  this photo.

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This photo has the drain stop relay turned on. Each relay has a LED that lights when it is powered.

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This photo has the fill stop relay turned on.

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This photo is of the ATO stop relay. There is a 12v power supply to the right of it that is used to power my three level sensors.

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This is a photo of the ATO stop relay powered on.

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The relays are Magnecraft 782XBXM4L 12v coil. The socket is Magnecraft 70-782D8-1. The last ones I bought were from Mouser and were branded Schneider Electric.  The relay # was 782XBXM4L-12D and the socket # was 70-782D8-1A. The sockets mount to a DIN rail which I think is a standard size other than the length of the rail. That is about it for this setup.

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There was a Hydros app and firmware update released today. One of the features I really like is the ability to change the icon on the tile for the inputs and outputs. I got some screenshots of me changing the one I now use for controlling my skimmer. The output was originally an output I was using to turn it off depending on certain inputs. Below is a screenshot before I changed the icon for the skimmer. It still has the default icon for a generic output type. The output is 42g Skimmer on the left middle row of outputs.

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Below is the normal edit screen for an output. Here it is the 42g Skimmer output. There is an icon of a pencil in the upper left corner. This used to be for changing the name. Now it does either the name or icon.

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Below is a screenshot after clicking the pencil. If you click on the icon that is highlighted it will open a menu to select the icon you want from.

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Below is the menu for the icons. They do not all fit so I had to scroll to the one I wanted.

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Below is a screenshot of the menu scrolled to the icon I want. This happens to also be at the bottom so all icons that are avaliable to choose from are on one of the two screenshots of the menu. Hopefully they will add to them in the future.

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Below is a screenshot after selecting the icon I wanted from the menu. Now all that is needed is to click ok and continue.

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Below is a screenshot after clicking ok in the previous popup. There is now a upload changes banner at the bottom. I just need to click on that to upload the changes to all controllers and the cloud.

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After clicking the upload changes banner in the screenshot above you get the screen of the upload status. Below is a screenshot of that screen as the changes were being uploaded.

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Below is a screenshot of the same status page on the first screenshot after the icon change.

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That is about it for that feature. I have changed several of the icons to match what the input or output is related to. In the top row of inputs the DI Level and the FSW Level have had their icons changed they used to have a frown face icon. Several of the outputs related to ATO or AWC have had their icons changed to match the ATO/AWC icon.

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  • 2 months later...

I got some additions for the tank today. I got a cardinal, 9 snails and a emerald crab. It has been over 4 years since I added anything to the tank. I have some bubble algae that showing up. Not sure where it came from but hopefully the emerald crab will keep it in check.

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I found an issue with my setup for the wave pumps. Either something changed during a firmware update or it was not working right when I set it up but when I pressed feed mode in the app it would not run the feeding flow schedule. There is a new app and firmware update that was release earlier this week. It was still dropping the pumps to their lowest setting. You cannot turn off the EcoTech pumps completely from the Hydros but they do run at a very low speed. I fixed it by adding another output and using the same output I use to trigger the feed mode when my feeder runs. The only thing is if you go back to normal mode the flow pumps will stay in the feed mode for at least 30 minutes which is no big deal. Normally I do not press the feed mode on the app since it automatically goes into that mode when the feeder runs. Below is a screenshot of the new output I called it 42g Feed Off. It is a constant type output and will normally be in the on state. There is no output device assigned since this is only used for logic. Active in modes in the second screenshot is set to be inactive in both feed mode and low power mode. I have a different schedule that will run for low power mode. Depends on is unused on this output.

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I also had to add an input to the output in the screenshot below. I added input 2 to this output. It is the previous output. So input 2 is the feed off output. This output is inverted since I want this output off unless it is on feed mode which is when feed off is off. The combiner mode is set to OR since I want this output on if either input is active. Input 2 is active when the feed off output is off. Nothing else was changed on this output. So now it will use the feeder schedule for at least 30 minutes if either the feed mode is pressed in the app or the feeder runs.

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Below is the feeder flow schedule. The schedule is the flow pattern type. The flow pattern is set to constant speed. The speed is set to 6%. So the pumps will run at 6% in feed mode or if the feeder runs for at least 30 minutes. The start time and end time is set to 00:00:00 so it will run any time of the day as long as the depends on is met. The depends on is set to the 42g Feed Mode output. The dependency mode is set to off if off. So if the 42g feed mode output is off this schedule will not run which is the normal state.

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Below is one of the normal schedules which run when the time of day is within their setup schedule. All of the other schedules are the same as far as the settings for feed mode so I am only posting one of them. This one again is a flow pattern type schedule. This one has the pattern set to SPS reef. The max speed is set to 70%. This is 70% of the max speed set for the pump. I use EcoTech pumps so that is set on the pump and not the Hydros. Also since I use EcoTech there are 3 outputs that are automatically setup when you turn on EcoTech mode in the Wave Engine.  One is same side, one is opposite side and the last one is back. This is in relation to the master pump, but in this case the master pump is the Wave Engine and not an actual EcoTech pump. I put all three in the schedules. The one used by a particular pump is set in the pump itself. So I figured it was a good idea to setup all three just in case a pump gets changed at least it will run a pattern. This particular schedule will run at noon and run until 4pm. The rest of the settings are at defaults except for depends on and dependency mode. Depends on is set to the 42g Feed Mode output just like the feed mode schedule but this one and the rest of the other schedules except low power mode have the same depends on and dependency mode settings. The dependency mode setting is off if on. So if the 42g feed mode output is on then this and the other schedules other than the feed mode schedule and low power schedule will not run if the 42g feed mode output is on. That is about it for the changes.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got my nitrate down now. So I decided to check it with the low range hanna tester also. The high range reading was 3.4 and the low range test was 3.57. Below is a graph of the nitrate level over time. It took a little over a year to get it down just using AWC. I bumped up the amount of the water change each time. It was set to 11 minutes for the drain pump which is a Intllab dosing pump. I have been going through a fresh saltwater tank full about every 19 days. Of coarse there is a low level sensor and a full sensor in that tank so it is not completely emptied or completly filled each time. It is a 20 gallon brute can so my guess is that is about 16-17 gallons used on a 42 gallon tank. Now that it is down I reduced the changes to a drain time of 9 seconds. Increasing the AWC volume was the only thing I have done to change things so my guess that is the reason for the drop.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I decided to try out the automatic flush in the RODI Filter output type but to do that I needed to create a RODI filter type output that would be on regardless of which of the three things was turning it on. I already use the RODI Filter type for the DI refill solenoid and the Mix Refill solenoid. Since you can only use an actual output port once I could not set the output port on each of the two others using the RODI filter output. I created another output to power that solenoid and the input solenoid to the RODI input. The issue was that inputs are required to turn on and turn off the RODI input type. So I had to create an input that was tied to an output to accomplish that. The used is in the screenshot below. I called it RODI control. The type is sense port. The sense mode is water level. So it will show as wet or dry. The port is connected to relay contacts. The relay is energized by another output I will go ofer later in the post. The sense port is on my Control 4 in the garage. The notification is none.

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Now to the output that energizes the relay. The type is combiner and the input count is three. Input one is RODI timer. This turns on the RODI 6 times a day to refill the RO bladder if needed. The bladder is used to feed the ice maker in the fridge. Input one is not inverted. Input 2 is DI Refill. This is the output that turns on the solenoid between the DI out on the RODI and the DI reservoir. Input 2 is not inverted. Input 3 is the Mix Refill output. This output turns on the solenoid between the DI out on the RODI and the mix tank. This input is not inverted.  The combiner mode is OR. The output device is set to the output port that energizes the relay for the previous input.

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Next is the output created to power the RODI input solenoid valve and the added flush solenoid valve. The type is RODI Filter. The feed output device is the output port that power the RODI input solenoid. Since this is a 12v solenoid powered by a small DC power pack the wattage se is quite low. So the power range is set from 6.5 watts to 8.5 watts. the notificationmlevel is set to orange. The flush output device is set to the port that powers the new flush solenoid valve. The power range is set the same as the feed settings since it is the same type solenoid power the same way. I don't have a booster pump on the RODI unit but I setup the output temporarily for now just to see how it reacts. Since I don't actually have it powering anything the power range does not matter or the notification level. The high level input is set to the input created earlier so when it is wet it will turn on this output. The low level input is set to the same input since a dry reading will turn on the RODI output. The leak detector setting is set to the RODI leak detector. If wet it will turn off the two solenoids controlled by this output. I did not set a start time or end time so it will run anytime the inputs are dry and turn off anytime they are wet. The depends on is set to the leak garage output. The dependency mode is set to off if on. Enable advanced settings is set to on. The minimum off time is set to 5 minutes. The minimum on time is also set to 5 minutes. The maximum on time is set to 5 hours. Feed run past max on time is set to off and the notification level is set to orange.

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Below is a photo of the RODI with the new solenoid connected. when it is on it bypasses the flow restrictor. The is a manual flush valve integrated into the flow restrictor.

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I will finish this in another post. I have graphs of the inputs and logs for the outputs while refilling the DI reservoir.

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Ok the graph for the  first DI reservoir refill is below. Iwas doing some testing also before the refill. I also drained the tank and cleaned it before refilling it. So the sensors were disconnected for a while when doing that so that had an effect on the graphs. The first graph is the sensor DI full. It is normally dry on this tank unless it was just refilled. This sensor shuts off the RODI when it goes wet. The second graph is the DI level sensor which is a pressure sensor. The third graph is the DI low sensor. This goes dry when the DI reservoir goes low starting the RODI to refill the tank. The last graph is the new input which is the relay that will show wet as long as it is not energized. It will go dry when the RODI On output is on. The RODI is on as long as this input is dry and there is no leak.

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Below in the first screenshot is the outputs state after it has ben running for several minutes. The second was just after the first hour it was running. It started at 2:21. The third is after a minute from the second screenshot, The flush runs for a minute when first turned on and then repeats every hour.

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Below is the log for the RODI output that was created to control the input solenoid and the flush solenoid. The fill started at 2:21. The feed output which power the input solenoid turned on and stayed on until turning off at 6:11. The flush valve turned on for 1 minutes and repeated the 1 minute process every hour until it turned off. The boost output which I don't use turend on and stayed on the entire time.

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Below is the log for the RODI On output. It turned on at 2:21 and turned off at 6:11. The previous on and off cycles were from testing or the RODI timer output turning on.

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Below is the RODI refill output which is what triggered the other previous outputs to turn on. It turned on at 2:21 and off at 6:11. The flush and booster pump outputs are not used on this output. I use the RODI type here since it has the built in process for filling from a low level sensor to a full sensor. You can do it without using this output vut it requires 4 outputs to replace this one output. That is about it for adding a flush solenoid to the RODI unit that the Hydros controls.

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The Hydros dosing pump I use for my ATO has been in use a little over a year so I decided to change out the pump tubing since I got some spare tubing. I took some photos during the replacement. Below is a photo of the pump head removed from the pump and the spare tubing.

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Below is a photo of the pump head with the back cover removed from the back side.

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Below is a photo with the roller assembly and the tubing assembly removed. 

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Below is a photo with the clips removed from the old tubing and installed on the new tubing.

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Below is a photo with the rollers removed from the bracket.

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Below is a photo of the tubing installed and the rollers and bracket installed back in pump head assembly. 

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Below is the pump head with the back cover back in place. It is ready to be installed back on the pump assembly.

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Below is the front view of the pump head after tubing replacement,

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Below is the pump in the lower right without the pump head installed. 

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Below is the pump head back on the pump. I just need to connec the tubing back to the barb fittings.

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Below the tubing has been hooked back to the barb fittings and pump is ready for use.

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I do plan on getting a spare pump head for this when they are back in stock. The tubing removed looks like it could have went longer before replacement. I can get a lot longer on the tubing on this pump than I can get with the tubing on the Intllab pumps but the Hydros do pumps cost more than the Intllab pumps. Also on the Intllab pumps you can adjust the flow rate. The Hydros is fixed at 43ml a minute which is not an issue since in most cases you can just change run time to get the amount added you want. The only pump it will not work for in my system is the one used for dosing All For Reef. That one is set to 12ml a minute and even at that I have to mix the All For Reef at half strength to get 6 doses a day in. I could always reduce that to once a day if needed, but I have 5 of the Intllab pumps and only using 3 at this time so I can wait for a while to get new pumps. Other than the flow rate the Hydros and Intllab are interchangeable on the system since they use the same power jack. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I received my Kamoer KH Carer Friday. I got it hooked up and calibrated Saturday. It test alkalinity and also give a pH reading. My understanding is the pH may not track to one calibrated for tank water since it is calibrated at different cal points. It can also add buffering to the tank to maintain the alkalinity. The test frequency is from once a day to once every hour. I set mine for three times a day. It appears to be built well. It was not too bad setting it up and calibrating it. I also set it up to use Randy's recipe for alkalinity buffering. Below is a photo after setup and calibration. Water remains in the beaker after testing to keep the pH probe wet. It will drian that water and refill before testing. It has a stirrer built in. I currently have it set to rinse twice since I am dumping the water back into the tank. It adds the testing reagent a small amount at a time and stirs after each so it does take a while to test, about 30 minutes.

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This is a side view. There is an empty 10 gallon tank beside it that is there just in case of emergency need.

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Here is a view from the side with the pump heads. The clear door is kept closed with magnets and can easily be pulled open.

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Below is a photo with the side door open.

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Below is a photo of the back of the unit. The green tubing is water coming from the tank. The yellow tubing is from the testing reagent tank. The black tubing is from the KH buffer tank. The blue tubing goes to the tank and is the one used to dispense the buffering agent to the tank. The red is the waste from the testing and in my case it goes back into the tank.

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Below is the readings from the first test. The pH is 8.0 and the alkalinity is 8.4. After the test completed I check the pH on my Hydros and it was reading 8.06. So those seem close enough for me considering that the probe on the Hydros is about 1.5 years old.

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I have only had it up and running for a few days but so far I am impressed with it. I will have to post some screenshots of the app once it runs for a while. It is the same app that is used with the Kamoer dosing pumps. Below is a Hanna test done right after the first test on the Kamoer.

F86182DD-99DD-4033-8FC6-72476B607313.jpeg

 

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